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Comments
I'd say a big YES you should be worried IF you had one of the defective cars due to the defective "part" can cause a fire. But you should be 99.9% a o.k. My dealership here in Indy, which is VERY reputable, said they were told by Nissan Corp. to pull ALL the cars that same evening it was announced off the lots-they could not sell them. (this is back in early June)
As for the serial #, bascially it is to track when the car was actually built. I appologize for the lack of memory, but I believe it affected 06 models manufactured from Dec.05-I think April 06 (?).
You might want to do some research on the sepcific maufactured time frame on the internet-but I could bet your car is fine.
1N4*L11D*6N366397 - 369129. My VIN# starts with 41****. I am supposed to pick up the car later today but my parents told me that I should call the dealer and cancel my car since it states in the article that they should stop selling ALL Altimas. I just dont want to receive a recall letter in the mail later and have problems.
What do you suggest?
Have others encountered premature rotor warping or pads seizing? I have heard that OEM rotors are typically crap so I will probably replace these with non-Nissan parts when these rotors go. Our previous 96 Camry went 85,000 miles before replacing the front pads and the rotors were still good (just needed turning). I didn't replace the rotors to save a few bucks because we were selling it.
:lemon:
JV
If it were a recall there would be a line out the door because they would be fessing up to a truly defective component and would have to replace 85K+ engines.
Secondly, read the TSB very carefully. If you go in to the svc dept with just a LOW level oil range they will simply check for noise, top it off with oil, and send you on your way. My advise, dont go in until the oil does not reach the dip stick, monitor it carefully and then as soon as you see this level head to the dealer becasue now according to the TSB you can start the process of checking every 700 miles and then get the new engine. Again read this TSB very carefully..It took me a few reads to finally understand the loop hole they crafted. My car is burning oil, its on the LOW indicator after 2200 miles on the dipstick but Im wtg until it does not register at all otherwise they will say it does not qualify (Nissan,not the dealer because Nissan has to authorize the engine replacement). Good luck all.
LJ
anyone have any ideas? im in texas and its hot and dont want to run #4 all the time lol
about a month ago this problems started with my car in which the following symptoms are present:
-Rough, Shaking engine movement (the whole car seems to be shaking with it)
-White, gas smelling exhaust that turns black if i drive too long with the problem
-Occasionally dies, but only when I've driven with these symptoms and break at a light or signal (not good places to break down!!)
-Loss of accelleration at times
-When it does break down, I can't get it to even start again for atleast a couple of hours
-Sputtering sound coming from the engine
I've had two mechanics, both highly recommended and one exclussively a Nissan mechanic, try to gifure this out, and neither of them have been able to find anything wrong. The problem comes and goes, sometimes running great, sometimes with the above symptoms. HELP ME!!!
That's water, my friend, and the only avenue of entry for water into a working cylinder is past a blown head gasket (and in some engine designs, a defective intake manifold gasket) allowing coolant to enter. Most of the coolant that enters a cylinder is immediately vaporized by engine heat and compression effects and blown out the tail pipe where it can condense to the white vapor you see. However, some of the vaporized coolant in the cylinder(s) is squeezed past the piston rings of the affected cylinder(s) and deposited into your engine's motor oil. Coolant contains ethylene glycol as the key antifreeze ingredient. Ethylene glycol is extremely corrosive to engine bearing metals. You have a very serious problem and if you want to save your engine, you need to have this problem dealt with very soon. And, yes, it'll be expensive.
My question is: Does anyone know how many degrees past spec can the engine survive before risking valve-piston interference? Also, is valve-piston interference always a LOUD event, or could it also have happened silently.
Bottom line is: What are the odds that valve-piston-head damage has occurred?
I have 94 altima which was running fine till yesterday. but suddenly when i started it the engine started shaking. the RPM increased properly. it idles ok at just below 1000. the shake continues if i put it in gear(automatic). I checked the oil levels they look ok. but i can clearly see the engine shake if i open the hood.
i'll greatly appreciate any help
thanks
2. It makes a rattling noise when I start the car.
3. when in idle, it shakes and feels like it will shut off.
4. hear a swoshing sound from the engine when I acelerate.. )
I glad you mentioned about the "RE" tag on the engine. I will also insist I get a NEW engine and not a POS rebuilt.
Take care, and Good luck.
Thanks
Full instructions with diagrams to access the bulbs in the rear combination lamp fixtures are on page 38 of section 8 in your 2005 Altima owner's manual. If you don't have the manual, you can download a PDF of the entire manual's text and graphics content from Nissan's website in their owner's section. PDF files require Adobe Reader - also a free download on Adobe's site.
Teresphere@yahoo.com
I was told by a radiator placea flush will not get rid of the rust for more than a day. What could cause the rust, can I get rid of it or should I get rid of the car.
Thanks