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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • juliababejuliababe Member Posts: 3
    I have had one thing after another go wrong with this car. I had a $500.00 Air Mass Flow Meter replaced because the car Idled really rough and RPMs were racing up and down. Then I notice excessive oil loss, not on the ground, but internal and coming out of the exhaust. I know that if that keeps up it will burn the converter out. I have my car at the garage right now and they are taking the head off the motor to see if thats the problem, they also think it might be a lower end problem which means replacing the whole engine. Im pissed, it dont seem like this should happen to a Nissan. Let me know if anyone else is having this problem. It starts with white smoke coming out the tailpipe.
  • juliababejuliababe Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my car, thats why its in the shop having the head taken off and probally replacing that or the whole motor, believe me if you dont see oil on the ground then its an internal leak and its coming out the exhaust. Get rid of the car and you'll save some money!! :sick:
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    White smoke from tailpipe usually associates with coolant loss because of head gasket broken and coolant leaking into motor and gets burn. Black smoke & oil loss due to broken rings and/or loose pistons. Oil goes thru the rings into chambers. Both symtoms often happen after engine overheated. It happened to me long time ago with my Dodge Colt. The only way to save the car is to change or rebuild its motor.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Have any of you have any problems with Hub Bearing failures? The hub bearing holds the front wheel by supporting the end of the CV drive shaft, it is pressed into the Steering Knuckle, which is the bottom part of the strut. I had the left one go bad on my daughters 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5S with 83,000 miles, the left front wheel felt very loose when it was jacked up off the ground. The hub bearing is a very large ball bearing, the guy at the parts house told me that it is actually two bearings built in one housing. I had to remove the wheel and the steering knuckle, took it down to the auto store to have a new one pressed in, it would have cost $40 for the bearing and $30 for the labor to press. However, he could not do it because the hub that pressed into the center of the bearing was loose and worn, and I could not get one right away, and if I could, they are $137 at the dealer, so we were forced to go to the junkyard and get a used drivers side steering knuckle for $100. I put it on, and it's ok for now, but I am concerned about these things going out, because they are not that easy to replace and require special equipment (a press) to remove and replace. Besides the bearing should have lasted longer and the center hub should certainly not have gone bad, even if the bearing got a little loose. The hub bearing was not that loose, the hub was loose inside the bearing (should have been a press fit). I am not looking forward to having this problem again. I am wondering if this might be a common problem with the Altimas?
    E.D.
  • msahmedmsahmed Member Posts: 13
    Mine turned out to be distributor problem. I replaced it on my own. Hope this helps.
  • dawnstyledawnstyle Member Posts: 1
    In my 2003 Altima, it is not a "one-touch". You have to hold the button for it to open/close.
  • padraikpadraik Member Posts: 8
    How did it go?! I'm going to be buying the 2.5S next week (probably); however, the oil consumption problem has me worried.
  • souldiersouldier Member Posts: 3
    Hey guys,

    Ok, so my 2005 Altima is having issues when starting. When I turn the key on the engine would sound like it's out of gas and won't start, but after 5 secs of holding on to the key the engine will finally start, sometimes shaking a little. I've checked the spark plugs, air filters, and taken my Altima to two Nissan dealers. One told me that the engine's dirty because I didn't use a Nissan brand air filter, (Fram instead) and another dealer said they didn't find any problems with it. It's hard to duplicate the problem. I know it usually happens after I've parked the car for 30mins or so and started it up again. It turns on fine every morning though. Could it be the fuel injection?
    Please help. :confuse:
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    It sounds like the fuel pump check valve isnt holding its fuel pressure. Try this. Every time before you start the car. Turn the key to the ON position and wait for two seconds. Then turn the key off and take it out. Then put it in and turn the key to On for another two seconds, then start the engine. What this will do is run the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system before starting.
  • souldiersouldier Member Posts: 3
    Yah, my friend told me to do the same thing, pretty much turn it to ON for 3-5secs then start the engine. That works fine all the time, but how do I fix the problem and how much will it run? :confuse:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Demonstrate what you've learned to the service manager. (Service writers are essentially brain-dead salespeople churning commissions on extra, often completely unnecessary, makework service.) Since your car is nominally under three years old, if it has less than 36,000 miles on it, the fix should be a warranty claim under the bumper-to-bumper coverage.
  • souldiersouldier Member Posts: 3
    My car's an 05 Altima base model, it's at 50,000 some miles now. I have not taken it in for any services other than the usual oil changes and I changed my brakes once. What am I due for? :blush:
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    There is a check valve. One in the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank and one inside the fuel filter. Replace both to fix the problem.
  • dpooledpoole Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Altima 5 speed with 135k miles. Lately I have had a intermittent problem. When you start the car, it runs very rich, the electric cooling fans come on, and there is very little gas peddle response (almost impossible to drive in this condition ).When it does this the engine light comes on. I have taken it to 3 different places while it is acting up and they can't get a trouble code reading. I took it to the nissan dealer which is about 30 miles away and it wouldnt act up for them, but it still costs $85.00. If you unhook the battery cable for about 1 hour it will run fine with no enging light. The problem happens about once a week. If the car starts, it will run fine all day, but you can shut it off to go into a store, and it will act up when you go to leave, or it may sit all night and act up in the morning. Can any one tell me what it could be? I have been told it could be the engine control computer, but I don't want to buy one unless I am sure thats what it is. Help!
  • bonsigirlbonsigirl Member Posts: 2
    hi, i own a 2003 altima- about 2 mos ago my car would just stop- first it turned out to be i needed a new battery (replaced that). 2. the car starting stalling at a stop light and the ck. engine light was on then the car starting jerking while i was driving and then it would shut off- my friend ref. me to her mechanic who in turned said that this was due to me needing a tune up because of dirty oil, clogged air filter etc. he did the tune up and i got my car back on 10/6 and today it started jerking and cutting off again- i called the mechanic and now it's back @ his shop - HELP- can any one think of what can be the problem/solution
    thanks :cry:
  • carnut21carnut21 Member Posts: 38
    I think Nissan, unlike several other manufacturers stepped up to the plate and said we have a problem. With the extended warranties and concern for their name I think Nissan will take care of you if you have problems. A friend of mine had a 2004 Chevy PU and is was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles and Chevy said this is normal.

    Go for the purchase.
  • globtrotrglobtrotr Member Posts: 3
    I have a ‘95 Altima that has suffered “total electrical failure”. I have had the battery checked as well as tried a second battery. I have checked all the fuses in the engine compartment as well as the ones inside the car. I have tested all of the wiring that is easily reachable for both volts and ohms. I have moved the shift lever to neutral, and still have a completely dead automobile. No noises, no lights, no dashboard, nothing. I have heard that there is a relay in one of the little black boxes under the hood that would cause this if it failed. Any ideas before I go ripping out the ignition switch?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    STOP right there! I knew right away by reading your post that you don't what your doing. You can't fix the electrical problem just by checking here and there for volts and ohms. The electrical power circuit has to be traced, starting at the SOURCE (BATTERY), and then TRACING the power through the circuit in a LOGICAL MANNER, like a flow chart. You can use a simple TEST LIGHT to check for power. First check to be sure you have a good connection of the battery negative post to the ground connection, to the metal frame of the car. Connect the test light from the ground connection to the positive battery post, the light should light. Then, you follow the positive wire from the battery to the point where it makes a connection. You test each connection point with the test light, connecting the test light from ground to the connection, the light should light. You then follow any branches that it makes, and you follow the branches of the branches. That's why they call them BRANCH CIRCUITS, your car, your house, and your factory is full of them. You keep going, following connections until you get to the connection where there is no power, then the problem is between where you just checked and the last placed you checked and had power. You may need a wiring diagram to trace wiring. Some wires may dissapear into harnesses, try to follow as best as you can. Your problem should not be hard to find, being that you have a total electrical failure, it tells me you problem is not far from the battery. Your idea of "ripping out the ignition switch" is silly, as the main power does not go through there, only a small amount of "Control" power goes through there, very little "Load" power. An obvious place to check first: Check to see if you have power at the MAIN BUS of the engine compartment fuse panel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First thing I would do is disconnect the negative battery cable and use a jumper cable to create a new ground connection for the battery.

    I agree, the ignition switch is not your problem.

    Does this car have any kind of "fusible link" for the positive battery cable as it leaves the battery?
  • globtrotrglobtrotr Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. I'll try that.

    There is a fusible link, which is really just a big, 75 amp fuse that sits in the fuse box next to the battery. When I started work on this car, that fuse was blown, & I have replaced it, to no avail.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You blew a 75 amp fuse??!!

    That's not a good sign...hmm...I need to think about this....
  • globtrotrglobtrotr Member Posts: 3
    Actually, I didn't blow it. The car was that way when I got it. Some college kids had been trying to figure it out, to no avail. I might add.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    globtrotr, I was trying to help you on 10/16... the post #1782 has all the information that you need to fix the problem. Your problem may look big, but I am very sure that it is simpler to fix than it looks. As I said in that post, being that ALL the electricity is out, the problem must be close to the battery. It seems that you have not followed my instructions, you mentioned replacing a 75 Amp fuse, but you make NO mention of TESTING anything. You likely only need some very simple tools to check this. You need a TEST LIGHT, available at any auto parts house for a very low price, probably less than $5. It looks like a clear plastic screwdriver handle with a pointed metal shaft that comes out one end, the other end has a wire about 2 feet long with and alligator clip on the end. Inside the handle it has a light bulb. If you connect the alligator clip to the negative post of the battery and touch the metal point to the postive post of the battery, the light will light, indicating the presence of electricity between those to points. Everybody should have one of these test lights in the took kit in the back of their car. If not, go get one today. Now to solve your problem, go back and read my post #1782 very carefully. You must TEST for the PRESENCE of electricity in your power circuit, starting at the battery, and working your way through the power circuit. You won't have to go very far. FIRST, test to be sure that you your battery negative post is connected to ground (the metal frame of the car). Connect the alligator clip to the POSITIVE post of the battery, and then the test light should LIGHT when you touch the point of the test light to various grounded metal parts of the car, the car frame, metal parts of the engine, etc. If it does not light, that is where your problem is, and you will need to clean and tighten or correct the ground cable/connection from the battery negative post to the ground connection of the car frame. If the battery negative in connected to the frame ok, then connect the alligator clip to the negative battery terminal or any good grounded point, then the test light should LIGHT when you touch the point to the positive battery post. If ok, then leave the alligator clipped to the grounded connection and touch the test light point to the next available place in the POWER PATH from the positive battery post, which may be a fuse or fuse link near the battery post, or it may be a starter solenoid, or it may be the main bus of the underhood fuse box. Look for any loose connections, be sure all connections are tight. Don't just look for blown fuses, check to be sure that power is getting to the fuses. If a fuse is blown, one side should be dead (off), and the other side should still be "hot" (on). The "hot" side should LIGHT the test light. If there is NO LIGHT on either side of the fuse, then you have to check for power "upstream" (towards the battery. You should be able to locate the point of the problem by doing this. Once you find the problem, you can fix the connection, whatever it may be.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • nwhitenwhite Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 altima it's got about 160k ran great for the first six months i had it and then one morning i was leaving work and it wouldn't start so i waited about thirty minutes tried again and it started and drove home fine but hasn't ran since. already replaced distributor checked the cranckshaft position sensor and it fine checked over most of all the sensors that could cause this problem. could it be a ecm problem cause every thing works like the fuel pump and all but i also have no fire at the plugs or coil? any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  • jack_suvjack_suv Member Posts: 9
    2001 altima gxe - 77k miles. AC works fine real cold when car started first time. But when hot (in the afternoons) AC never starts. Fan runs without a problem at all times any speed. Did a leak check no leak; recharged still did not solve the problem. Once engine gets hot either in the afternoon or when one started and stopped, AC does not run even at night. Once engine cools down AC starts fine blows cold. Once AC starts continues without problem even when very hot outside. Problem while restarting. Plz advice.

    Found a similar problem
    =======================
    having some a/c problems with my 1996 Altima. For the last few summers i've almost died in my car. Sometimes my air works and sometimes it doesn't. It often doesn't work on really hot days. They air will blow cold for a second or two if at all and then it blows out hot, muggy, wet, nasty air. I had my a/c recharged last week but that didn't do anything. I've talked to many mechanics and no one knows what is going on. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. I've also noticed that the a/c button light doesn't go on when it is hot out side but sometimes at night when it cools down the light will go on and the a/c will work fine. My wife and two daughters are dying without a/c. Please help. Thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    The fact that it operates well at some times means you have a good refrigerant charge in the system. You need to open the hood and look at the ac compressor. Keep hands and fingers clear! When you start the ac with engine cold, you will see the clutch on the front of the compressor engaged and spinning as the belt moves around it. Look at it again whe the ac quits working and see if the ac compressor clutch is spinning or not. Most likely it will not be spinning, which means you have an electrical control issue. If the compressor clutch IS spinning, then you have a refrigerant issue, and at least you have an idea of what direction to diagnose in.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Factory A/C installs have a low pressure safety switch to assure that the compressor won't merrily grind itself to oblivion in the absense of sufficient refrigerant/oil charge. I would be looking at that switch as the culprit. It may be "opening" at hot, underhood temperatures even though the system's fully charged. It'll be screwed into the refrigerant line somewhere - maybe even right at the compressor. (You might be able to trace the wire visually from the compressor clutch right to the switch. You might not if that wire buries itself tidily into the corrugated plastic conduit tubing so popular with automakers.) I'd think any reasonably competent auto A/C tech would've been able to check this. Note - if you find it and unscrew it, you will lose your refrigerant charge. Best to have a professional deal with this if that's what it turns out to be.
  • kcowellkcowell Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Altima. I start to fill it (no matter how much gas is in the tank) and it will kick off the gas pump like it is full. My check engine light also comes on when I get out on the highway and run at 65 or more MPH.
    It is really frustrating to say the least. I had it in the shop today and the mechanic couldn't find an answer for me.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I carry on of those long skinny plastic funnels in the back of my car, and I use it to fill my car with gas, it solves the problem of the gas pump kicking off.

    As for the check engine light, when it illuminitates, it always sets a code in the computer. The mechanic should have told you what the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) was. Then you look for the problem that cause the DTC to set.

    I think it is very stupid that the car companies don't put a digital readout for the DTC on the dash of the car. It would be very simple to do that.
  • jiggammanjiggamman Member Posts: 1
    Okay, I have a 2004 Nissan Altima. I will be driving down the road, and all the sudden I will have a power surge of some sort. Everything will stay on, but I will lose all acceleration. I will press on the gas and nothing. No lights or indication signals appear, like the car is fine. I will pull over, put the car in park, sit for maybe 2 minutes, then put the car into drive and drive off like everything is fine. It happened at night once now, and I noticed the lights and everything will dim, but not go out, I will pull over, then see another surge in power, the lights will brighten again and I can drive off again. I have taken it to the dealer 3 times, and they cant find anything wrong with it. No codes or nothing at all. They have tried some things, but all its doing is wasting my money. Please help me!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Since your problem is intermittent and the dealer can't find the problem after 3 tries, this will be difficult to find. You probably have either a loose connection or a short somewhere in a major part of the electrical system. The problem could be deeply buried in a wiring harness or equally hard to reach place. Be glad the problem cleared up for now, but I understand your concern that it may happen again. It's hard to drive a car that you can't trust. It's like being married to someone you don't trust, it can be very unsettling. About all you can do for now is wait to see if it happens again, note exactly what happens if it does. There may be some clue show up somewhere. Watch the lights for any flicker.
    "They have tried some things, but all its doing is wasting my money" I would maybe pay them the first time for diagnostic time, but not on the second and third time for the same complaint. Take it somewhere else if it happens again.
  • raiderman34raiderman34 Member Posts: 2
    My altima has been getting very poor gas mileage for about 3 months now. I checked the spark plugs, they were fine, i checked the air filter, it's looking good, and i even use that fuel injector cleaner every once in a while. what could the problem be?
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Are yuou sure its "bad"?

    The only other things that it could be is a leaking fuel injector or faulty fuel pressure regulator. Also, your o2 sensors have a slight change of telling the engine computer to richen the fuel mixture, but most likely not.
  • biggrobs15biggrobs15 Member Posts: 10
    I HAVE A 96 ALTIMA AND EVER SINCE I GOT IT ITS BEEN VIBRATING AT THE BEGINNING IT WAS VERY LITTLE BUT NOW IT SEEMS LIKE YOUR GETTING A MASSAGE EVERYTIME I GET IN THE CAR CAUSE ALL THE VIBRATING IT ONLY DOES IT WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED. I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE HARMONIC BALANCER BUT I CHANGED IT TWICE AND NOTHING HAS CHANGED CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP????? THANK YOU :confuse: :sick:
  • rupert5rupert5 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have the same problem, 1996 gxe , automatic, whenever I stop it starts to shake , steering wheel everything, there are times thought its doesnt , like in the morning. Dont know if you have any luck with yours.

    Rupert
  • rupert5rupert5 Member Posts: 2
    hello, did you ever get any leads on that engine shake??? have a 96 gxe a/t. mine has that shake anytime we sit in idle. ) really annoying))I already tried and checked timing , mounts ect ect. but now I am having that it is blowing the meter 10 amp fuse and that cuts the alternator out ( and instrument cluster dies) and engine runs of battery. I have read different messages and there are some common denominators. Each time I blow this fuse , seeems to be happening more often I pull a tranny code and a knock sensor code. I would replace the knock sensor but I will bench test it first since it is $150 plus. As far as the vibration, My buddy has a 95 that has NO vibrations! the main area where this vibration is comming from the top mount next to the alternator, that whole area is the center where this vibration startson my car, and his is very minimal. Maybe the mount is weakend. Let me know
    Rupert.
  • justagirl3justagirl3 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem and did some research. Apparently, it is a RECALL issue! Free of charge to repair. Here is more information about it.
    http://www.automotive.com/2003/49/nissan/altima/recalls/31103.html
    2003 Nissan Altima Recalls

    Recall ID# 06V242000 - ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING

    Recall Date:
    JUL 07, 2006

    Model Affected:
    2003 NISSAN ALTIMA

    Summary:
    ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.5L ENGINE, A VARIATION IN TEMPERATURE OCCURS DUE TO THE UNIQUE LOCATION OF THE SENSOR IN THE ENGINE. UNDER CERTAIN DRIVING CONDITIONS, THESE VARIATIONS IN TEMPERATURE CAN BE LARGE ENOUGH TO CAUSE A BRIEF INTERRUPTION IN THE SIGNAL OUTPUT FROM THE SENSOR.

    Consequence:
    IF THE INTERRUPTION IN THE SIGNAL FROM THE SENSOR IS SO BRIEF THAT THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) LOGIC DOES NOT HAVE TIME TO DIAGNOSE THE CONDITION, THE ENGINE MAY STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING WHILE THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN AT A LOW SPEED INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE ECM FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON SEPTEMBER 20, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.

    Potential Units Affected:
    294166

    Notes:
    NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC. R0606
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    It might be one of the engines is out. Look for a good shop to test the engine. Or, you can do it yourself like the old day by looking at the spark plugs color after the car driven for a while. Charcoal Red is good; dry grey white is too little gas; and wet dark grey is to rich of gas or the engine does not fire at all. This 4 Engine block is designed to fire in a sequence to balance out its vibration. If one of it is out, it sure will shake a lot under the hood.
  • jack_suvjack_suv Member Posts: 9
    thanks Ray. The Pepboys guys told me the same thing. But even after modifying low pressure safety switch problem persists. same problem AC does not blow cold only when it is hot. I also noticed something else, the radiator fan keeps running even after the car is switched off. this has been going on for many years. need to know whether this is altima thing or just my car. Help needed Please advice.
  • jack_suvjack_suv Member Posts: 9
    Hi,

    the 6 cd changer failed with Err2 with 3 of my CDs. can somebody advice on how to get the CDs out? Also the 6-CD changer keeps whirring every time, I start the car and then stops with Err2.

    thnx
    jack.
  • biggrobs15biggrobs15 Member Posts: 10
    WHAT DO YOU MEAN ONE OF THE ENGINES MIGHT BE OUT???? AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN TOO LITTLE GAS??? BECAUSE I'VE SEEN THE SPARK PLUGS AND THEY LOOK DRY AND GREY..

    THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

    ROBERT JIMENEZ
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "I also noticed something else, the radiator fan keeps running even after the car is switched off." ((

    Nothing to worry about - it was designed that way (probably to save a little production cost). Nissan, as do a number of other automakers, routes power directly from the battery through the radiator's thermostatic switch that activates the radiator fan. Not having the ignition switch involved in the radiator fan circuit allows that fan to merrily drone on for some time subsequent to switching off the ignition. Sorry I wasn't able to help with the A/C prob. :cry:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Chill, boggrobs15 - a "dry and grey" appearance on the porcelain insulator of the discharge electrode is the ideal. It indicates the heat range of the spark plugs is perfect for your typical driving conditions. ;) (Though you didn't mention it, I don't understand atma97's reference to "charcoal red", either... :confuse:)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "the 6 cd changer failed with Err2 with 3 of my CDs. can somebody advice on how to get the CDs out? Also the 6-CD changer keeps whirring every time, I start the car and then stops with Err2." ((

    Welcome to the wonderful, wacky world of CD changers - especially the increasingly popular indash versions. Sorry - there's generally only bad news and worse news once a jam has ocurred. If you had affixed paper labels, there's a good chance they're responsible - the working clearances of the mechanicals in indash changers are incredibly small. The thickness of a paper label or sticker can be all it takes to jam a CD in the guts. Even without labels, these machines often become finicky over time. The remote possibility good news? If you car is under your basic warranty time and mileage limit, you may just be entitled to a free head unit exchange. (Some makes, such as Hyundai, have an even shorter time and mileage limit than the basic 5/50 for their audio systems - dunno what Nissan's policy is. Check your warranty supplement booklet.) If your car is over the limit, you will probably have to cough up out of your own pocket unless Nissan is comping these units as a goodwill gesture. (If not, and if you're on nitroglycerin for angina, you may wanna slip a tablet under your tongue before you hear the bad news - the dealer replacement cost of factory head units is obscene...) The only way to retrieve jammed CDs out of an indash changer is to disassemble the head unit to extract the CDs manually. Once jammed due to a malfunction, the captive disc(s) aren't gonna magically eject regardless how many times you attempt it.
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Sorry for not so clear about it because of my own terms. Please look at pictures from this web site: www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/spark plugs/plugcolorchart.htm and pay attention to "Normal", "Oil Fouled" and "Overheated".
    Once a year, I check up my car engine to see how healthy it is. Usually after a good half of an hour trip while engine still hot I put on gloves and carefully remove spark plugs and compare them. If they are all similar and dry, engine is doing well. If not, start a basic tune up.
    My basic tune up is:
    Engine Cleaning: Once a year Flush Engine and put in Engine Restorer, use Synthetic Blend Oil to reduce engine wear.
    Electrical: Replace spark plugs (Bosch Platinum +4 $20), Distributor Rotor ($7) & Cap $15), Ignition Wires (OEM from Nissan Dealer $65).
    Gas: Replace fuel filter ($10), add Fuel Injection Cleaner ($3) into gas tank.
    Air: Replace Air Filter (Frame $5).
    You can buy good parts at discount price at website Rockauto.com If you can do a tune up by yourself, you already save $ on labor, do not try to save $ on cheap parts. I have kept a good tune up on my 97 Altima car since the beginning. Now I got 284k and every mechanic drove my car said it could be a 100k more. In term of money, I will save money of buying another car.
  • jack_suvjack_suv Member Posts: 9
    hi ED

    i looked at the compressor while AC running & not running. Could not see whether the clutch engaged or not. It looks just the same both times. However I noticed the twin radiator fans started running when AC was on but stopped running while AC was switched off manually. But the belt attached to the clutch was always running. Are there any pictures on the internet where I can see an engaged clutch and a nonengaged clutch?

    thnx
    Jack.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Jack, with the engine running at idle and the A/C off, observe the central portion of the A/C compressor's pulley. Unengaged, that central 3" hub portion that is mechanically connected to the compressor's crankshaft will be stationary. (The outer pulley will be rotating, but the compresser will remain at rest.) However, if it's still stationary after manually engaging the A/C system, then you have a defective A/C compressor clutch, activation switch, fuse, and/or wiring harness defect. If you have automatic climate control in your Altima, be sure to set it to manual mode - otherwise there's no telling whether the A/C compressor was intentionally set up to run constantly when the engine is running or not. (Chrysler products used to be profligate fuel wasters with this questionable design "feature" that allowed virtually instant cold air - dunno whether they still are...) The radiator-A/C condenser fans should be running constantly when the car isn't moving with A/C engaged since urban crawl traffic conditions put an extra load on both A/C and engine cooling efficiency. I beieve at some vehicle speed above 25-30 mph, those fans will switch off unless the engine begins overheating. When everything is working as intended, those fans will normally remain off above that nominal preset vehicle speed since vehicle motion will effectively supply more cooling air through the radiator and A/C condensor than the fans will.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    With the engine off, look it the front of the compressor. The belt runs around the pully, which is the round part around the outside of the clutch. The belt and the pully will always be moving when the engine is running. Now start the engine with the AC OFF, and look at the front of the AC compressor. You should see the belt moving and the pully turning, but the center portion should be stationary. Then turn on the AC and you should now see that the whole front of the compressor is turning. That means the compressor is now "engaged" and compressor is running. If the compressor cycles off, you will see the center part stationary again with the belt and pully still moving, which means the compressor is "disengaged" and NOT running. When it is not running, it is not cooling, so if the compressor is off when it is supposed to be cooling, then that means you have an issue with the electrical controls. But, if the compressor remains ON and the AC is NOT cooling, then you have an issue with the refrigeration portion of the system, which may be a faulty compressor or there may be moisture in the system and it may need a new accumulator or several other possiblities. If you have issues with the refrigeration portion, I need to know the system pressures, taken with AC on MAX COOL, doors and windows closed, at idle and at 1500 rpm, and what the Vent temps are at each reading and what the ambient (outside) temperature is at that time. Depending on the ambient temperature, the normal pressures on a warm 90 day would be about, Low Side = 21 to 30, High Side = 220 to 240. Vent temps should be 50 degrees or colder with car stationary in the shade and cooled down, and running down the road vent temps should go down to 46 degrees or colder.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • 06daddy06daddy Member Posts: 2
    One person replied and said they had the same problem. They took it to the dealer and the replaced the d/s window motor. I don't plan on doing that until it actually quits so I am still looking.
  • jack_suvjack_suv Member Posts: 9
    Hi Experts,

    I have questions reg. the engine in Nissan Altima 2001 GXE 78K miles. The second piston from the left had oil surrounding the rubber-casing when the piston was pulled out of the engine. the other 3 piston rubber-casing was fine. no oil. the tech guy said it could cause a fire hazard as it was right above the spark plugs. Need to know is it true that a fire hazard and how expensive it is to replace the stuff. I had my engine gasket changed about a year ago. I just changed my axles on both front wheels.

    thnx,
    jack.
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