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Any ideas ? - maybe speaker wires tapping against door panel or something loose inside power window rails or runners.
Doesn't always rattle but sometimes over bumps and is driving me nuts enough to trade for another Accord which has more solid trim.
If you push the lock button and the unlock button on the remote at the same time and hold them in for a couple of seconds it will activate/de-activate the beeper. If you hold the lock button down too long it will activate the horn alarm. You turned off your beeper by being clumsy with your fingers or perhaps you sat on it.
The lights flash twice on my 2001 when I lock it ONLY. Unlocking does not flash the parking lights and never did. Yours is probably the same. The dealer will have to set up the remote for you as they are coded to each individual car.
And with all due respect if you can't afford to buy a remote you can't afford what you are driving plus this is not an "ordeal". Losing remotes, keys etc and not reading the owner's manual would fall under the category of driver error.
By the way (from your screen name), what kind of "rig" ya playing through and what kind of music are ya into?
I started the car and put it on reverse gear, the car moved a few feet and then the engine died. I could not start the car on that day again.
The next day I could start the car, but as soon as I started it, the engine started to stumble. I did put gas and the engine came to normal operating condition. When I was pressing the accelerator, it felt as if the engine was hesitating to rev up. I kept the car running and in about 10 minutes the engine died again. I could not start the engine again on that day.
I was able to repeat the same sequence one more time (i. e.: start --> stumble-->die-->won't start).
Before trying to start the car on the 2nd day, I did change the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug, spark plug wire.
The next thing I suspect would the fuel pump and then the distributor itself.
I would really appreciate feedback regarding probable cause of the engine failure.
Any advice on getting this fixed? Should I take it to a Nissan dealership? I purchased this car last year at Car Max. Any idea about the cost involved?
I live in Los Angeles, so I actually did a lot of "behind the scenes" recording for some "popular" acts where the guitar players couldn't cut it -- but of course my name won't appear on any albums... BUT I GOT PAID BABY!!!
Influences are Eddie Van Halen, Yngwie Malmsteen, Steve Morse, Neal Schon, and others in that genre.
Ok... Enough music talk -- back to car stuff.
(:-D
Thanks in advance.
So, a car with 92K miles has had: 1. New engine at 59.5K miles (supposedly a crushed oil pan-- no, I haven't run over any boulders); 2. New starter at 92K miles. There is a black cloud hanging over this thing. Anyone have starter problems on their Altima-- is this normal?
Engine replacement at 60K due to damage and a starter at nearly 100K - them's small beans, and one could have been prevented.
I have changed the distributor on my own, and the car is OK now.
1st I would never drive with the engine light on!!!
If you have a CEL or engine light, take it to Autozone, they will pull the code for free, tell you what you need etc... If you want to clear the light after a repair has been made, disconnect the battery cable "positive" for 24HRS
2nd Why a new engine?
3rd, I would replace the struts, Excessive tire wear?
where to buy distributor, spark plug, wire, cap and how much do you spend?
the sympton of my car is stumble, stumble again, three days later, it died.
MY EMAIL ADDRESS IS LIULHUS@YAHOO.COM.
thanks,
Thanks
Ken
Took it to Goodyear and they told me to replace the fuel cap and charged me $80 diagnostic fee. i did it. they reset the light. came back on after 100 miles. another trip to GOodyear. they said i didn't tighten the cap. they reset it for free.
after another 200 miles. the light came on again. this time went to the dealership and they said that the computer shows 2 codes.. 440 and 1448. and although 440 usually means fuel cap... 1448 supercedes that - and that is the evap control valve that needs replacement.. something about the fuel fumes being sent back to the engine to burn instead of letting into the air polluting the atmosphere. But they claimed that this is not covered under the federal emissions act.
I checked my manual.. and indeed it says the same.. however, is there a way to verify that feds didn't insist that carmakers warranty this for longer period. Cost was $166 to replace it - $40 for parts and the rest for labor.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/im.htm
I've 2001 Altima GXE with 68K miles on it. I've done regular oil change but recently I've noticed a problem (after my oil change at dealer) that when I stop on signal (or any place) after 1/2 minutes the car starts shaking littlebit and you can feel it. Once I start driving it drives properly without any problem. I've noticed two things recently noise from my engine has increased and it is not driving smooth as it used to drive (might be bcoz now I'm also driving Honda Ody as a second car along with this). Would like to know if anyone else had similar problem.
thanks
MJ
I drive Nissan Altima 2001 GXE (my first car) apart from my 03 Ody EX. I've nearly 70K miles on my car and since last two weeks I'm seeing an issue (after oil change at dealer). If I'm waiting at signal (or anywhere) for more then 30sec then car starts shaking lightly. Once I start driving the shaking is gone. Any idea what could be wrong ? My RPM meter starts moving between 500 and 750 RPM range during this period. Shaking of car is not happening during normal driving condition.
thanks
MJ
I have similar problem in my '01 Altima...can you please let me know what was fixed in your car to resolve the problem (which part was replaced).
If you were using the defrost with the heat your AC may be running. Some cars have the AC come on automatically when the defrost is used to dry the air. I have a 94 Altima, and although my son now drives it, I think that's the way it worked when I was driving it. Maybe someone else knows if that is the way they still work. Good luck.
I have researched this problem and found the flooding is a result and not a cause of the no start condition! The real failure has more to do with variable valve timing.
What really happens:
1 During a cold start in cold weather the oil is very thick.
2 The E.C.M. (engine control module) tests all the components – this happens every start cycle but this problem only occurs intermittently during cold weather cold starts.
3 The I.V.T. (intake valve timing control solenoid) receives its test pulse but due to the thick cold oil can drive the intake cam to an over advanced condition.
4 With the intake cam advanced for operation beyond 2,000 RPM and the starter motor cranking the engine below 500 RPM the near static compression is nil compared to the dynamic compression of a high revving motor with an advanced cam.
5 Cold cranking an engine with low compression while injecting fuel results in a flooded engine.
6 Holding the gas pedal down while starting from this failed condition causes more fuel to be injected, more air to flow through the engine and the throttle position sensor to tell the E.C.M. that the throttle is wide open. The E.C.M. senses the RPM of the engine is at cranking speed (too low for an advanced cam), The PHASE (camshaft position sensor) signals the E.C.M. that the cam is advanced and the E.C.M. commands the I.V.T. to retard the cam, however since the oil is still cold and thick this takes several cycles to work – resulting in more flooding until the engine finally starts.