Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

kwk1 · November 2006

Hey Jack,
There's no chance of a fire hazard with oil. It just makes for a dirty engine and the need to check the oil level on a regular basis between oil changes.
As far as cost, don't have a figure I could give you, except it won't be cheap. If it were me, I'd see how much oil I'm losing on the dipstick, and if it's not much, I'd just add some between oil changes.

ccat1 · November 2006

Hi all!

Last fall, I bought a 2004 Altima with approx. 32000 miles on it. About 12 days after the 90 day limited warranty expired, my service engine soon light came on, the car started bucking wildly. I took it to a mechanic and the first spark plug on the left was coated in carbon and the gap completely closed. This has happened 5 or 6 more times since then and it's also happened to other spark plugs. In addition to that, I just had a mechanic do a code search and it says that I have a crank shaft sensor error and something to do with the rpm's being off. Are these issues all related? Have any of you heard anything like this happening before? Is this a fixable problem?
Thanks!!!

ray_h1 · November 2006

Happy thanksgiving. Isn't your car still under the original Nissan new car warranty? I was under the impression they come with the more or less standard, transferable 3 yr./36,000 mile general warranty, but is that wrong? Spark plugs carboning up under 50,000 miles means there's some serious misfiring and/or oil or other fluid intrusion into the combustion chamber. Does your car send out a cloud of smoke on 1st light-up? If so, what color and approximately for how long?

Black - rich fuel mixture
Blue - oil
White (briefly) - condensation in the exhaust system evaporating off and recondensing in the cool air after exiting the tail pipe until the engine warms up - harmless
White (continually) - very bad; high liklihood of a warped/cracked head and/or blown head gasket; if coolant is making its way into the crankcase and contaminating the motor oil, the engine is or could soon be on life support without prompt attention. Because of its inability to lubricate under high load situations, antifreeze is very erosive to the soft bearing metals encountered in crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings.

All problems are "fixable". The question really comes down to whether fixing your car's problem will cost more than the car is worth. I'm not qualified to answer that, but hopefully not. You do need to find out why your engine's spitting diagnostic codes, though, regardless whose nickel it'll be on. Best of luck.

(By the way, the following parts are covered for free replacement including labor charges under your car's Federal vehicle emissions warranty for 8 yrs./80,000 miles from the orginal new car date of sale:

the catalytic converter
the engine control module {computer}
the onboard diagnostic device)

ccat1 · November 2006

Happy Thanksgiving to you as well! The problem started after the factory warranty had worn out. At the moment the car has just over 59,000 miles on it. There is no exhaust other than the harmless condensation cloud. I've had a couple of different mechanics look at the car(no, none of them are certified Nissan dealers, I originally thought it was something small and didn't want to be charged 94.50 an hour..yes, that's what they charge in Rhode Island). I've had 2 tell me that it's something that requires me to have the engine taken apart and the top half of the engine cleaned and resurfaced. Another thinks it's an electric problem causing a misfiring. Unfortunately, the car isn't worth what I owe and it's not feasible for me to trade it in. I've already tried. My only option is to try and fix the problem. I'm just hoping that someone else has had this issue and can tell me how much I'm looking at. It's good to know that those things are covered for a bit longer though, I didn't know that and I thank you for the info!!

electricdesign · November 2006

To get the answer you are looking for, you need to provide all complete information, such as what engine is in your car, they make a 4 cylinder inline and a V6. The engine situation does not sound good, it should not be fouling plugs for many many years, well over 150,000 miles. You mention errors, but do not give the Diagnostic Troble Codes (DTC's), you must get them from the mechanic and post them here. I don't have a cystal ball to see what kind of engine you have and what is wrong with it. Give us all the information, and all the history.
The fouling can come from too much oil in the combustion chambers, or it can come from a faulty ignition system.
I seem to remember reading that some of the Altimas in some years had a problem with bad piston rings from the factory. I would look into that further, maybe Nissan would take care of it, but I am not sure how many years or miles they cover. They may be able to tell if you had the problem by your VIN number. Do some Google reasearch on it, and you should uncover something on it, like this:

Nissan Altima Recall # 06V223000- ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Component:
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Summary:
CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5L ENGINES MAY EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION AS A RESULT OF IMPROPER PERFORMANCE OF THE PISTON RINGS.

Consequences:
IF THE OIL IS NOT MAINTAINED AT LEAST AT THE MINIMUM LEVEL, ENGINE DAMAGE CAN OCCUR AND IN EXTREME CASES RESULT IN AN ENGINE FIRE.

Remedy:
NISSAN HAS NOT YET PROVIDED A REMEDY FOR THIS CAMPAIGN. ON JUNE 9, 2006, NISSAN NOTIFIED OWNERS OF THE POSSIBILITY OF EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION AND THE IMPORTANCE OF MAINTAINING THE OIL AT A PROPER LEVEL. FOLLOW-UP LETTER TO OWNERS ADVISING THEM OF THE STATUS OF THE RECALL WAS SENT DURING AUGUST 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.

atma97 · November 2006

If there is no oil consumption and spark plugs are not flooded with oil, its good news. Engine rings, pistons and cylinders are still tight together. You just need to focus on electrical parts. The car bucking wildly is because of misfired due to ignition problem. I would replace both spark plug and ignition coil on the bad one. Crank shaft sensor problem is easy to fix. If not sure how to get it done, just buy an oem one from a Nissan dealer and ask a mechanic to replace it for you. It should not take him more than 10 minutes (Ive done it myself.) Drive the car at least a few days to break-in new parts before any further adjustment. I believe this is not a big problem since Ive been driving Nissan and Infiniti cars for many years.

ccat1 · November 2006

I can't provide any codes, I don't have them. I'm a mo and didn't write them down. I just know what they say when they run a diagnostic. The first time it happened it said it was a misfire. The next few times, it's been the crank shaft sensor and this last time something about the rpm's being off. I've read on this board that you need to replace the cam sensor when you replace the crank shaft sensor..is that true? The spark plug has been replaced each time this occurs. Not so for the ignition coil. I'll have to get these parts and have the mechanic replace them. I'm going over there today, I'll see if I can get the codes...oh and there is no major oil consumption. It appears to be burning oil normally...

electricdesign · November 2006

The OBDII codes (DTC'S) will provide information on where the trouble is, they DO NOT pinpoint the problem and tell you what parts to replace. The codes steer you in the right direction towards resolving the problem, the mechanic still has to use logic and diagnostic skills to find and repair the problem. Just throwing parts at it (Plugs, coils, etc)is NOT the answer. The plugs would have to be replaced since they are badly fouled, but the codes will point at the crankshaft sensor circuit, or engine missfires, etc, and the mechanic must know how to test each circuit and each component of that circuit. For instance, if the code was for "EGR excessive flow", that does not mean replace the EGR valve, because it might be the EGR regulator, or a broken or leaky hose, or a clogged passage or orifice.
BOTTOM LINE IS: A good mechanic will know how to read and interpret the codes, and know how to troubleshoot and repair the problem. If the mechanic doesn't know how to fix the problem, find another mechanic.

ccat1 · November 2006

I was at the mechanics again on Friday, getting yet another spark plug replaced. I can remember 2 of the codes. P0420 and P0735. I can't remember the third. At my request, he stuck a magnet down into the shaft and the magnet came out with oil on it, as well as small metal shavings. I saw them with my own eyes, I was standing there when he did it. This to me doesn't sound good. He made some remark about how it could be a ring smashing up against the spark plug causing it the gap to be closed.

lynva · November 2006

I HAVE A 03 V6 ALTIMA THAT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU DESCRIBE. AFTER 3 SETS OF TIRES AND NUMEROUS BALANCE JOBS INCLUDING 2 HUNTER ROAD FORCE BALANCE AND GOING TO 3 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS I STILL HAVE THE VIBRATION. THE ONLY THING THEY CAN SAY IS I HAVE A "TIRE ISSUE". SO DO YOU KNOW WHAT THEY DID TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM?? THANKS ALOT

amao · November 2006

I can jump start the car and it will drive fine. Head lights work and no battery light comes on. If I drive it at least once per day, I will be OK most of the time. But if I let the car sit for more than a day, the battery will be completely drained. I have had the clamp terminal cleaned. My battery brand is "interstate" and is less than 2-year. Is it a bad battery or alternator? Please help!

electricdesign · November 2006

You need to do some electrical diagnosis or else have it done. You need to connect a volt meter to your battery and measure how many volts you have before cranking, then with motor idleing and headlights off, then at with motor idleing with lights, AC and wipers on. There should be at least 12.6 volts with motor off, 13 to 14.2 volts with motor idleing with lights off, and at least 12.7 volts with motor idling with lights and everything else on, and volts should go up to over 13 volts if you rev up the motor to fast idle. If car sets over night and volts go way low, you have a heavy parasitic current draw, look for any lights that may be left on, dome, glove box, trunk, etc. If you can't see it, I can post how to check for it, it you are electrically capable.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

electricdesign · November 2006

Wow, this does not sound good. How did the spark plug look, smashed up? Your first descriptions were that they were dark and gaps closed up, I took that as being that the gaps were bridged with carbon. But if the gaps are BENT closed and you have metal particles in the combustion chambers, it sounds VERY serious, it could go back to what I said about the piston ring problems. You may need to Check with Nissan about that piston ring Recall problem.
The codes I'm not sure about:
P0420 is Catalyst System Efficiency below Threshold, which is likely caused by oil contamination caused by the engine in the catalytic converter.
P0735 is something about an incorrect gear ratio, not sure about that one.
You big problem is OIL CONTROL in your engine. You should have the mechanic do a cylinder compression test on each clyinder of your engine, and report the compression of each clyinder here. They should all be within 20% of each other and not very low overall. If you have low compression in one or more clyinders, it could be Rings, or valves, or head gaskets or the valve timing or cam timing could be messed up.
Good Luck
E.D.

amao · November 2006

E.D, thank you very much for the detailed message! Let me input more for my story. At one time, I called AAA for the jump start service. A guy came and before he jumped my car, he measured the voltage of my drained battery and it read only 5.x volts. Then he said I got a bad battery and tried to sell me one for more than $100. I knew he was trying to rip me off and was thinking:"how can you get a proper reading if my battery is completely drained?" But after reading your reply, I am now not so sure about my thought. Was he right on my battery or I was right?

bosshog1 · November 2006

My 93 GXE has 150K and is extremely difficult to shift. If I were to guess, I would say that it takes anywhere from one to 15 pounds of applied arm strength to shift (to the point where I almost stop pushing, for fear of bending the shifter).

Eventually it will always shift, but I need to get the car inspected so this needs to be fixed (as inexpensively as possible as the car isn't worth putting too much $ into).

What might be causing this to happen? (Bushings/transmission oil/clutch/other?)

electricdesign · November 2006

YOU were Right! Just because the volts are low does not mean the battery is bad, it just means that it does not have much electricity in it. Think of a Battery, any battery, as being like a glass of water, it is a CONTAINER, and you fill it up full of water. Once full it is supposed to stay full. Now you drink some out of it, and the water level goes down, then you put more water back in it and it's full again to the normal fill line, or you can keep filling it up to the brim. You cars alternator charges your battery and will fill it to the 'brim'. If the alternator does not charge properly, the level goes down. If the alternator does not charge at all, the battery will eventually be 'empty'. If you have a full glass of water, and your leave it out at night, and someone comes and slowly drinks water out of it, it may be 'empty' in the morning. Or if you have a full glass of water and it has a small crack in the side or bottom, the water can slowly leak out overnight. A bad battery is like a glass with a hole in it. If you pour water in, it won't hold the water for long. A good battery may be empty, but if you fill it up, it will stay full and work properly. The only way to properly test ANY battery is to charge it FULLY FIRST, then "LOAD TEST" it to see how much power it holds. The measure of POWER is VOLTS times AMPS over a period of time.
They measure and rate batteries in 'AMP-HOURS' The battery should produce a certain amount of amps output at a certain voltage over a certain period of time.
So bottom line, always charge the battery fully before you test it, or it will test bad.
In your case, I think someone is coming by and sipping your glass at night.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

mnoghost · November 2006

what size bulbs are in there, and how do you change them?

flygo1 · November 2006

Hi,

I own an 03 Altima 2.5S, auto trans, w/ 70K miles on it. Lately, when I drive my car to work, the first time the speed hits 75 mi/hr, the car will lose power, or at least feels like losing power for one or two sec, yesterday, it got more severe, the speed was oscillating back and forth from 60 mile to 80 mile no matter how hard I hit the gas. I was scared a lot.
I would appreciate any headsup, something must be wrong, I just don't know it's w/ transmission or w/ engine.

Thank you very much!

electricdesign · November 2006

Does it speed up and slow down while you have the gas pedal pushed all the way down? Does it do that if you try to hold the gas pedal steady? It could be a fuel or electrical ignition problem. Is all maintenance kept up? The fuel filter should be changed if it has not been recently changed(normally change it every 30,000 miles). Inspect and drain the old fuel filter out on a clean white paper towel to see if it has much dirt or trash in it. It is possible that there could be bad gas or contamination in the gas tank and fuel system. If the old fuel filter has dirt that pours out of it, you may have to drain and pull the gas tank and clean it out. You might pour some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank first and see if that helps. Remove and check the spark plugs, and see how they look. Do they look like they are burning clean? It would be a very good time to do a cylinder compression check on the engine while the plugs are out. This will tell you a lot about the general health of the engine. If spark plugs are dirty replace them and further check the fuel and ignition system for further problems. Do you have a check engine light on? If so, get the engine computer scanned, and post back the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) numbers here, or look them up on the Internet at:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/index.php

Other things could also cause this, but these are some of the most likely places to look first.

Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

kwk1 · November 2006

My first guess would be a plugged catalytic converter.
My second guess would be the ignition.
It's unlikely to me that it would be the trans.

Good luck.

Let us know how you make out.

amao · November 2006

E.D., thank you very much for the funny but very educational post! I also come to believe that there is a short circuit somewhere that is draining the battery. I heard it would be really hard to find out that leaking spot. Is that right? If, for example, it turns out the electric cable within the engine compartment is bad, probably how much to have it replaced?

electricdesign · November 2006

You need to find what is draining your battery by checking "PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW" from your battery. Your car has ELECTRONIC MODULES that draw current when they are first connected. After they "settle down", usually in about 2 to 5 minutes, the parasitic current drain on you battery should be down to about 25 ma (milliamps) (.025 Amp). Do the following test procedure, and if you find your draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate the source of the excessive current draw. If your Parasitic Current Draw is still high after pulling all fuses, try disconnecting the Alternator, and other electrical equipment until the source of the excessive current draw is found.
PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW TEST:
Start with a fully charged Battery. Turn everything in the car OFF, close the door, remove the light bulb from under the hood so that NOTHING you know of is on. Remove the negative cable. Place a 5 amp fuse & a 1 ohm/10watt resistor in series with the negative cable and the negative battery terminal, then wait a few minutes to allow the modules to settle down, then proceed. Connect a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter across the resistor and do a simple voltage drop test. Results = for example, a .022v draw = a 22mA draw. When you have minimal computers/radios/etc a maximum of 25mA is optimal. If you have multiple computers/cell phones/alarms/etc expect a higher number to be normal, though the cell phones/alarms should be OFF for this test. Over 30ma should be investigated and over 50ma should be corrected. Check manufacturers specs to be sure of what it should be for your particular vehicle.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

Mr_Shiftright · November 2006

Why do you have the fuse and resistor in series with the negative cable? Can't you just measure draw directly?

electricdesign · November 2006

That's easy, but you have to understand some electrical therory, that's why I'm an electrical engineer.
The fuse and resistor form a series cirucit that is in series with the battery and the load, so whatever current flows out of the battery goes through the fuse and the resistor.
You COULD use a multimeter to read the current flow, but it could be very dangerous, or you would keep blowing the fuse in the mutimeter, because most times you are having larger currents flowing in the test until you find the problem. Most multimeters measure current in small ranges, usually no more than 10 amps, and smaller range scales. Larger currents cause them to blow a fuse inside the meter case. During the process of testing, it is easy to create a short when dealing with poking around in the wiring. The method I outlined is easy, safe and works well.
The fuse is for overcuurent protection, which is very important during testing. Keep extra fuses handy. Without the fuse, if you should happen to short out a wire while testing the wiring or poking around in the wiring, a heavy current could be drawn through the resistor and burn it up or start a fire. One Ohms Law formula is Amps = Volts divided by Resistance, therefore a direct short will cause 12 Volts/1 Ohm = 12 Amps to flow through the resistor. This 12 amps will overheat the resistor very, fast. Another Ohms Law formula for Power is Power = Volts times Amps, therefore 12 Volts X 12 Amps = 144 Watts of power would flow through the above circuit. Since the resistor is only rated at 10 watts, it would overheat very, very fast. The 10 ohm resistor is a common resistor avaiable at most electronic stores. You could use a 150 watt or larger resistor and not use the fuse, but the large resistors are expensive and hard to find.
The reason for the resistor is to create voltage drop while the load current flows through it. You read the voltage drop across the resistor and use Ohms Law to convert it to Amps. As an example, if you measured .5 Volts across the resistor on the meter, .5 Volts divided by 1 Ohm = .5 Amps or 500 Ma, way too heavy of a current with everything turned off. You usually want to read .025 Volts or less on the voltmeter, the .025 Volt number converts directly to .025 Amps because of using the 1 ohm resistor. Using the 1 ohm resistor makes the math much easier. .020 Volts would convert to .020 Amps or 20 Ma, 10 Volts would convert to 10 amps, etc. The resistor being rated at 10 Watts would mean that the most current that it would be rated to pass at 12 Volts is 10 Watts divided by 12 Volts = .83 Amps or 830 Ma.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

Mr_Shiftright · November 2006

got it, thanks!

youasked4it · December 2006

This just started, I am losing transmission fluid but there are no leaks found, Car will not accelerate. If I put fluid in it it works fine, This happens about every two days,Sometimes I can shut it off and start it in N and it will work.

electricdesign · December 2006

What engine do you have? No leak to be found anywhere? The fluid IS going someplace, maybe into the cooling system, maybe into the engine. How much fluid do you have to add every 2 days and how far do you drive in those 2 days? The fluid could be leaking into the cooling system through the fluid cooler. When the engine is cool, check the radiator for any trace of transmission fluid.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF

ray_h1 · December 2006

If the ATF has sprung a leak into the cooling system through the in-radiator heat exchanger as electricdesign theorized, once repaired, be sure to thoroughly flush the cooling system, replace ALL rubber cooling system hoses, and refill with fresh antifreeze/coolant-water mix. Mineral oil is NDG (no damn good) on most rubber compounds. Confounding your possibly perilous situation further, you're going to need to address the issue whether coolant's found its way into the transmission, too. If so, that would be a very costly predicament from the standpoint of bushing/bearing wear and clutch-pack facing degradation. Draw off a sample of ATF and send it to an oil analysis lab with a notation to specifically check for the presence of antifreeze. Blackstone in Indiana will send a free shipping kit on request. (Google the name.) Their basic service and report (all you'll need in this case) is only $20.00. Good luck.

cmptekinc · December 2006

I just purchased a 2006 Altima 2.5 SE.
The SE package has the Audio and Cruise controls on the steering wheel, the issue I have is that whenever I drive the car, something under the steering wheel controls rattle. It wasn't a big deal in the beginning, but you can't listen to the music as you always here that rattle. It doesn't matter if I drive 10 mph or 70 mph it still rattles. Whenever its cold outside (below 30 degrees ) it stops the rattling noise. I didn't care at first, but I drive 100 miles a day and it`s really startng to get on my nervous as well as I'm starting to get headaches from it. It`s gotten to the point where I would much rather take my other car to work and just let the Altima stay in the driveway and not drive it at all!

I took the car to the dealer twice for that issue. The first time they tightened something up, but problem wasn't resolved. This time they said that they noticed the same problem in other Altimas and that no matter what they are going to do is not going to resolve the problem. They also said that IT`S NOT A DEFECT AND THAT THERE IS NOTHIGN TO FIX. The way I look at it, I bought this car so I could drive it and lately Ive been taking my other car to and from work simply because I can't stand this rattling noise I spend approximately 3  3.5 hours a day driving and it`s really very annoying. I told the dealer that if they can't fix it, they will wind up buying the car back... I heard some commercials on the radio for one of the law firms in Chicago. According to commercials, dealer has 3 attempts to resolve the issue within the first year of ownership of the car and if dealer cant resolve the issue within 3 attempts by law in the state of Illinois they might have to buy the car back under the Lemon Law. Anybody has the same issue or has anybody had to deal with the lemon law lately? :lemon:

galt06 · December 2006

I own the same year and model of Altima. It currently has 7500 miles on it. It has been quiet from day one. There are no rattles or squeaks anywhere. I do get some engine tappet like noise on start up in cold weather, but it goes away. Try another dealership for the needed repairs. What you have is not normal.

electricdesign · December 2006

Your problem sounds just plain crazy to me. There IS obviously something wrong with it, and I would demand that those incompetent #@!!#?*! FIX IT!!!

ray_h1 · December 2006

)) "I do get some engine tappet like noise on start up in cold weather, but it goes away." ((

That's just the camshaft drive timing chain rattling around its plastic retaining guides on initial startup until the chain's autotensioner pumps up with full oil pressure - very common in chain equipped engines in cold weather since thick, cold oil takes longer to put into circulation. If you're using 10W-30 motor oil, consider 5W-30 to help with cold starting and its associated noises.

carnut21 · December 2006

This should not be normal. Occasionally it may take a couple of trips to get a rattle fixed because they are so hard to find. Every manufacturer has one that gets away but your dealer or maybe another dealer with a better, more experienced tech can diagnose and repair the problem. We had a Sienna that Toyota tried to align the front end 6 times and to no avail. I was ready to scream and with replacement of the tires (Firestone to Michelin) the problem became more tolerable and I lived with it.

Nissan, because they got slammed with the 2002 Altima launch squeaks and rattles issues, recently installed a new test track at both US assembly tracks to check cars/trucks prior to shipment. I heard they spent 7 figures on both tracks because they know it matters to customers. I think The Clarion in Canton Mississippi done a right up on the project at the Canton plant.

Try the dealer or another one since you are travelling so far you are bound to run into another dealer along the way.

atma97 · December 2006

Re. battery keeps getting drained issue, I experienced a couple times in the past nine years with my 97 Altima. There are three things that might cause the symptom: 1) Bad battery 2) Bad alternator 3) Electrical circuit in the car still has a significant load even when the car is not driven. The first two are 99% common problems. You can bring the battery back to where it came, they should recharge and test the battery for you. If they are reluctance, tell them your mechanic said good alternator but bad battery. Auto parts store also does battery testing. Alternator can be tested by measuring its out put voltage. A good repair shop or a Nissan dealer can compare the voltage reading with the car specification in manufacture repair manual. Try the battery and alternator first before getting into the electrical circuit issue. The car circuit is well designed and isolated. Problem only happens after the car was submerged, involved in a bad accidence, or installed after-market accessories. A normal car circuit should always carry very tiny load to keep memory for radio, clock, and alarm system. Getting into this testing will require time, skill and knowledge of the car wiring diagram. Always be careful to avoid airbag and engine computer unit wiring.

gsemike · December 2006

I've got a 2003 2.5S with the original Bridgestone Turnenzas. At 40k, the tires still look pretty decent. I leased my last car so it's been quite a while since I replaced tires.

How long have others gotten out of these tires? I started watching them around 30,000 and always rotated them as recommended. The tread still looks good.

xfilerguy · December 2006

I have a new 06 Altima and I have a question about the parking brake. I'm not sure if it's broken or not, but it seems to go up too easily and not really engage at all. Shouldn't it have some resistance when I raise the lever for the parking brake? Has anyone else had this issue with their Altima?

electricdesign · December 2006

The LOOK good, but how DEEP is the THREAD? They sell an inexpensive small device to measure tread depth. It is measured in 32nds of an inch. Most new tires have 11/32" of tread depth. Tires are legally worn out when the tread depth is 2/32" or less. Check the tread depth at several places around the tire, and use the thinnnest number.

cmptekinc · December 2006

I don't think that having the parking break slide as freely as you describe is normal. I have a 2006 Altime 2.5 SE and my parking break is actually kinda stiff. You really need to have it looked at.

atma97 · December 2006

Watch out for tire traction in wet or snow weather. If you feel the car slightly skid or loose, you should consider of replacing the tires. Turanza tire does not have good traction on wet and snow. I replaced Turanza front tires on my Infiniti I35 (a bigger cousin of Altima) at 45k miles since they skid while quick accelerating from a stop. The rear tires have just been replaced at 75k miles to avoid oversteering in winter. My new Michelin Energy MXV4 tires have amazing grip on wet and dry road. You can check out tirerack.com and discounttire.com for more information.

ray_h1 · December 2006

You should feel preliminary tensioning as you pull the parking brake lever up after the first 3 or 4 clicks, so have your dealer check this out. It may just be a cable tension adjustment matter*, but assume nothing. The parking brake should be able hold the car against gravity on any reasonably anticipated incline with the transmission in neutral and your foot off the service brake pedal.

*The parking brake in my '03 Sonata was sufficiently slack when I took delivery four years ago that it wouldn't hold the car against my inclined driveway. I readjusted the individual rear wheel parking brake cables at the equalizing yoke after I removed the center console.

flygo1 · December 2006

Thank you all for your inputs.
Computer read is out, it is a bad crankshaft position sensor.
Will have it replaced at dealership tomorrow, quote is $195.

aaron58 · December 2006

hello this is arron altima these two mess were not posted by me

aaron58 · December 2006

Any on know what the largest tire on my 17 rims can be applied

atma97 · December 2006

www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos
They have calculator for tire size conversion.

bob001 · December 2006

Just completing our first 30 day's with our New Nissan Altima 2.5 s.

Ok now let's understand New Car with lot's of redesign so this post is not to slam Nissan because I think they have a good car here. But let's get these issues on the table so Nissan can address them.

Our first sign of trouble was a rattle with the rear speakers.

Our second is a nasty valve rattle when the vehicle first starts up.

Our third is that we can't seem to get better than 29 MPG. (Our 05 and 06 got 30 on the HW) This one is rated for 34

Today's problem occurred at 1730 miles. Check engine soon warning. Now this may be a simple gas cap issue. But I checked it as the manual suggested and we will try for another day. Before going to the dealer.

The transmission takes some getting use too. Seems the tranny down shifts a bit too quickly on down hills. Puts unusual drag on the vehicle.

But overall We like this car. It handles well, much more comfortable. A little sportier, but the woman is not happy with the shortage of storage over the 06.

I like the fact that steering pull has been eliminated.

Well that brings everyone up to date. Let me know your feelings. Ill let you know what the dealer does to fix these small issues.....

atma97 · December 2006

Its TIMING was off. I overlooked the timing when I did a tune up on my car. Since timing chain on the car was not supposed to be replaced, I did not pay attention to it at all. My car had developed a noticeable rough idle this fall. I did some research on Google website and found that timing could be easily adjusted. There are to bolts located around distributor. Loosen bolts and turned distributor clockwise, the car was instantly smooth. I tested drive at various speed and adjusted distributor position a little back and ford to get to a compromise stage of smoothness and power. Now at idle, speed drops down to about 600 rpm and I hardly hear engine noise or vibration at all. The problem got fixed and I did not have to spend a penny.

catam · December 2006

Just quick FYI. You should at some point actually set your timing with a timing light. You do the same basic proceedure that you mentioned but use a timing light to set the timing to specs. The setting should be on the under hood decal usually it is about 4 to 8 degrees BTC. (I don't know specifically for your car.)
There are 2 probs with setting it to "best run". First, you may not pass your next emision test, as your car will difinitely be producing more HC and CO. The second is you will probably notice a drop in gas mileage.
Other possible probs include, knocking or pinging under hard accel, and loss of power at certain RPM ranges.

kwk1 · December 2006

I've done a lot of reading on the Maxima forum about the coil packs prematurely going faulty.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem with their Altima.

atma97 · December 2006

Very good point, thank you for the info. With the need of using timing light, knowing where to point the light and watching timing mark in the strobe light, I got to be shown by an expert for the first time. Meanwhile, I rather wait for another 10k miles on the car when sentiment bell scheduled to be replaced then I will ask a mechanic to fix both bell and timing.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2006

You should have it timed right away. Timing by ear can be off enough to harm the engine and if you are too far advanced, that could prove troublesome. Usually, however, it is retarded timing that smooths out an idle.

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