Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Not so. Some use gears.
I understand you had a problem with the alternator and it sparking. When you say "We fixed that", does that mean you replaced the alternator with a new one? We must make sure that the alternator problem is resolved. Have you tested the output of the alternator to make sure it is puttting out the correct voltage and amps? How is the battery? You say "but everything else is still dead", is there any electrical device on the car that works? With the engine not running, what electrical items Do work, like headlights, brake lights, or anything? If you have complete electrical failure, or near that, there may be a blown fuseable link OR one of the big fuses under the hood may be blown. Use a 12 volt test light to check for blown fuses. Post anwers to the above and we can continue from there.
E.D.
Steve
The original problem goes back to the alternator, the alternator could have been the problem itself, or a major short in the wiring could have blown the fuse or link and overloaded the alternator, causing the alternator to fail. If it gets too deep for you, you may need an electrical specialist to look at it.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
See this thread: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/altima/12258-97-se-cutting-off.html
I will go to autozone and have the battery checked. I'm thinking it's probably just a crappy factory battery that can't handle anything other than factory system (non Bose). Wondered if anybody else had battery give out so early.If it's "normal" for it to last only original warranty period of three years, it would be OK, I'm sure my system will have some shortening effect. My mom's Murano battery (25k 2006) had to be jumped after only 45 minutes of sitting w/lights on one night. Not sure if they had in acc mode or off w/lights on.
I guess I have to disconnect the amp to get it serviced under warranty??? I do have a wire from the battery to the trunk that I'd have to remove...
Any thoughts on this? Any other section I should post it? Thanks
Would still like to know just how poor Nissan batteries are since I have another one!
It ran good for about 2 weeks, but now it has started running very badly, won't keep running unless you keep your foot on the gas revving it up a little bit and it sounds like it is missing pretty bad.
Any ideas what could be causing this? I am going to change the plugs today and see if that helps, but I don't really think that is the problem. The car has 170,000 miles on it (i have owned it for about 10,000) and has ran good ever since I had it until recently. Only maintenance I have done to it was a couple of years ago I changed the oil and air filter (car was only driven 1000 miles in the last 2 yrs.)
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Rob
When I had some similar issues, it was a dead fuel injector. You might have them tested.
Ken
It's a light indicating the dash/instrument brightness knob, which should be right next to it.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/altima/12258-97-se-cutting-off.html
any ideas would be greatly appreciated
thx
Mark
Ken
Does anyone have an experience like this with brakes, or could this be another issue such as axle or suspension?
Thanks
Thanks for asking
Most commonly, these types of noises are brake (pad) related, regardless of how much pad is actually left. The small amount of surface corrosion (rust) that forms on a brake rotor after a car is washed and sits overnight can (and does on my cars) create noise until you've applied the brakes enough to remove it.
Let us know what you come up with.
:edit: Just saw your previous post about your snow tires. My gut feeling is that its strictly temperature related, and doesn't have anything to do with your snow tires. Perhaps during the extreme cold your rotors are contracting/warping unevenly, ever so slightly, thus causing intermittent pad/rotor contact and the subsequent noise.
Sure enough, it came back only at the 30- 40 mph mark. It did not go away by pressing on the brake pedal. You know how hard it is to trace a sound from inside the car, but this morning it seemed to be coming more from the middle of the engine. We parked the car and chuch, and when we went home -- no more noise at all!
I am wondering if something (spedometer cable, etc.) is not getting lubrication until warm. Yet it does sound rotational. I may park it at the dealer overnight and have them look at it, as I do have an extended warrenty, but I sure would be open to suggest what you and others think.
Thanks again.
Let us know how you make out.
I have a 2008 and just got the same warning message. Did you ever find any resolution?
Thanks,
SB
thanks,
bomber7
with 60 miles the gas pedal is shaken , I was in Nissan dealership - technician
says it maybe transmission- but he;s not sure. It anyone can help?
thank you
Dealer, of course, wants to sell a rebuilt distributor saying the distributor leaked oil which got on the rotor and burnt. The local mechanic says if there was enough oil to get on the rotor there would have been oil visible when the rotor and cap were removed and there was none. I don't want to get stranded again.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Ken
Good luck,
Ken
You would not see oil in the rotor area. It is in the base of the distributor which is below the rotor. You need to disassemble the distributor to see it
Is it a lot of labor to disassemble the distributor?
The first time the mechanic changed the MAF and that did not stop the problem so they put the old one back. A rebuilt distributor worked for a half hour in the shop and stalled during the mechanic's road test and it was too late for them to get another so they put the old one back and it worked with a new rotor. The ignition coil tested OK. Hitting the fuel pump did not solve the problem either so they did not change that.
>>A rebuilt distributor worked for a half hour in the shop and stalled during the mechanic's road test
rebuilt distributors are no good, perhaps the oil seals are not replaced in these distributors
>>My Mechanic drilled a small hole in the base of the distributor, no more problems. That was probably 40k miles ago.
Yes, but you can drill a small hole in the base of the distributor
See message #2519
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef06fa1/2518#MSG2518
Did changing out the mass air sensor correct the problem?
I just started to have this similar problem where the car stalls after coming to a stop and then accelerating. The car reaches 1k rpm within the 1st few minutes after starting it, but the rpm will gradually go down and does some hick-ups-dies later on.
I'd appreciate it if you'd respond to my question.