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it's my first.... not ford lol. My dad only buys ford, so this is a stretch in his dept. But my boyfriend works on foreign cars all day, he says he can check it out. On my explorer i knew what was coming you know? I'll definitely as him on tuesday ( the father-in-law ) if there is anything comin up or if he has done any repairs in the past.
I keep the oil changed every 3-4000 miles. Still has great pick up, heat , air work great, I believe the 95-97 altima's were the best made. I also have a 2010 now, but still drive my 95 alot. If this guy kept the oil changed and basic maintenance up, it has alot of life left. My Nissan mechanic has told me keeping the oil changed is the key to life !
Well, I tried that but the difference is still very noticeable. Now, I've used these paint sticks on other cars and other colours and I realize that they are usually not a perfect match but this difference was really glaring. My car's colour looked almost cream colour when compared to the paint stick's white.
Any oe else runn into something like this when touching up their cars ??
BUT hear me out, it drives....GREAT.
the outside is not appealing but it's trans is in better shape than my sister's 2000 escorts's is ( it hardly has a problem ).
My bf and our buddy john has gone over it, they took out some dents. it's lookin better already. both mirrors were missing (one is kinda duct taped on there) and the tint is bad. and those are about the worst parts about the car. otherwise inside is great, seats are like new, radio works ( suck that its not a cd player, but oh well..) A/C works perfect. Gas Mileage is awesome.
it only HAS to last about 2 years... but if it lasts longer, i wouldn't mind it around lol :]. i've come to love the thing.
maybe ill do some before and after pics for you guys, keep yah posted. also im going to changing oil, air filter, drive belt, fuel filter, and oil filter (of course) and......windshield wipers ( they look like they've never been touched!!!) and i think she'll be up to par.
ALso. something interesting, it did not pass smog for the first time this last feb. so i have to get it pirate smogged but i'd rather see what the code is. because it's recent, it could be an easy fix. i'm going to aamco tomorrow to get the code.
i just cant wait to give it some luuuuuv.
The reason I ask is that one body shop told me that for this make/model, the OEM mirror is recommended, but kind of just gave me vague reasons why. I called the dealership and asked them if there was any truth to this (of course I took their answer with a grain of salt), and they said the bolting on aftermarket parts won't fix exactly.
Any truth to this?
Asa far as performance, at the advice of my local mechanic, I go to Costco and pick up the chevron pack of injector fluid. I think they sell it for around 15$ per pack. He assures me that it is a great additive. My mileage and performance have improved. I use it every fill up and sometimes during my driving. Good luck. Oh, my altima is 2003 with closeto 100k miles. For highway driving, my mpg is around 30, Before I used the injector cleabor it had dropped to below 20mpg's.
It came on after stopping at the base of the offramp on the freeway. It also had the letters '1.5 H' on the screen.
Any ideas?
Try and get a pic if it happens again...
I've got a 2008 altima s sedan. It's been good for 32,000 miles so far. But just recently, I ran into a strange issue. Left the car in a parking lot for a few hours (temperature was 45 degrees outside), came out and tried to start the car.
It tried to turn over once then everything went dead. No lights in the dash or anything. I could hear a clicking sound (like a relay) behind the dash but had no gauges or anything else lit up. Took my foot off the brake, waited a second and tried again. Nothing. Just the clicking sound behind the dash but nothing lighting up and the engine didn't turn over at all.
After doing this a few more times, I put the keyfob in the slot next to the steering wheel. I tried a few more times and nothing happened. I reseated the keyfob in the slot and all of a sudden, it started just like normal.
Since then (about 3-4 trips), it's acted normal. Still bugs me though because this wasn't a brake switch issue. The car/dash was dead. My radio lost all it's presets, etc. so it looks like all power was cut off in the vehicle when this happened. And since it won't recreate itself, I'm waiting to hit the dealer because we know what usually happens there.
Anyone else seen this? Any ideas? I'm thinking some other electronic control/brain in the dash (ECU, etc) but since it hasn't re-appeared yet, it makes it tough to figure out.
And yes, my keyfobs do have recent batteries in them and I never got a low battery warning for them prior to this incident.
If this doesn't do the trick, there may be a short somewhere that could (again) cause an on-again, off-again issue.
Have a question, whenever I set my AC to the AUTO option after setting the desired temperature, it always points the AC to the feet(Any help to point to my head), and if I change any of the setting to point to my head, it turns off the auto option, any help with that?
Thanks,
K
Check the oil after driving to see if there is a milky film on it which shows that oil is mixing with water.
Chuma.
Any one have links to photo instructions, videos or anything else that would be helpful? Thanks!
Remove the console side finisher RH.
Disengage the filter cover tab to remove the filter cover.
Remove the in-cabin microfilter from the blower unit.
When you open the glove box, there are three screws to take out along the bottom and then it comes out.
Chuma.
How often do you change your in-cabin filter?
After reading this forum, I discovered I wasn't alone with the head gasket problem, but had yet to experience excessive oil consumption, though, after teardown I discovered I was way overdue. I will try to make this short and to the point, and not bore with the technical details.
On teardown, I discovered the engine was unusually dirty, a varnish/sludge build up. Upon cleaning the pistons I even had to use a drill bit to clean the oil drain back holes. Although dirty, and with 133K miles, the cylinders showed no appreciable wear: ditto pistons, crank, or rod and main bearings; lubrication was not a problem.
I had the block cleaned, the cylinders machine honed, decked, and a valve job performed on the head. I ordered parts from both aftermarket suppliers and Nissan. When I had all my parts in order and everything cleaned, I began assembly.
During disassembly I noted that the oil control ring wiper rails (2) were stuck and had to be pried off the pistons and that both wiper rail end gaps were aligned. While assembling the rings to the pistons (following the factory manual step by step), I noted several things that were indeed odd. First. The manual showed a staggering of the ring end gaps (normal) with the oil control wiper rail end gaps aligned (not normal practice). I was installing Nissan rings, so their markings matched the manual exactly. The top ring was labeled "A", while the second ring was labeled "A2". This was OK, but here is where it gets weird: The upper ring that was labeled "A" was a black ring, the second ring labeled "A2" was a chrome ring... In 99% of installations the chrome ring is the compression ring which is the top or upper ring... I began calling. Both Kenny and Hap said this was really odd, and Hap suggested I install the two upper rings in the order called for in just one cylinder and turn the engine over several times, remove the piston, and use a magnifying glass to check the scuff pattern on the black ring; I did. Hap told me that if the scuff pattern was on the lower edge only of the black ring, then that ring had a tapered face and was a wiper ring, not a compression ring, and was not in the correct position: It should be installed in the second position, not the top position... The scuff on the ring was on the lower edge of the ring face indicating a wiper position, not the compression position.
In my opinion oil consumption in these engines is caused by 1) Nissan OE piston rings being incorrectly labeled with the result that the ring that should be in the #2 position (wiper) is installed in the upper position (compression) (which it clearly is not), and 2) The manual calling for alignment of the oil ring rails such that the ring end gap is not staggered (industry standard) but, rather, in alignment, thereby causing a direct leak path bypassing a portion of the oil ring assembly, and possible flooding the second (scraper) ring with excess oil which it could in no wise handle since it was installed in the wrong position to begin with, being the compression ring, not the scraper (as noted above).
Let me be clear: The rings are each designed for a specific purpose: The upper ring to seal compression, and generally having a molybdenum face or a chrome face for long life and heat resistance, and the second ring which is a wiper ring to assist in a "squeegee" effect of keeping the oil from bypassing into the area of the upper ring, and thus into the cylinder and being burned and discharged into the exhaust. If these two rings are interchanged in position the softer scraper ring will not withstand the heat and pressure nor seal the cylinder, and the chrome faced upper ring does not have the necessary taper to effectively wipe the oil off the cylinder wall. With the foregoing incorrect installation you must necessarily experience oil consumption.
Obviously these engines were assembled per the manual using factory parts mislabeled and with piston ring end gaps incorrectly aligned (per industry standard), thus the oil control/consumption problems people are complaining about.
On this rebuild I will not use the Nissan rings. I have chosen to use Hastings piston rings (made in the USA) and will align the ring end gaps per industry standard and anticipate no further oil consumption problems!
Lessons learned: Do not use Nissan factory ring sets for this engine, and do not use ring installation guidance as proffered in the factory manual, which, by the way, is excellent in all other aspects.
The problem now is that I have to start the car twice before it starts and I can't seem to figure out what the problem is. Should I change the filter pump unit or what? I need the car to be starting once like before.
Thanks, Chuma.
Over this weekend, we had very heavy rain. The car sat all Saturday and most of Sunday. When I started it on Sunday night, it was running very rough and was missing when revved. After a minute or two, the SEL flickered on.
By this morning, the rain had stopped but things were very wet still. The car felt fine when I started it but by mile 4 of my 5 miles commute, it had started running rough again.
The issue is obviously related to the rain and probably related to the new sensor. Does that sensor have a boot or protective covering that might be missing? What should I be considering?
Thanks in advance
Read Link:
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2007-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/317417-in- - termittent-startup-failure.html