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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bigtobigto Member Posts: 4
    Hey guys. My car (2010 Altima 3.5SR) is about 9 months old and I've been having issues with my side mirrors loosening. The casing is fine and isolated only to the actual mirrors coming loose. I commute in both NYC and CT and potholes are certainly an issue, but I didnt think the mechanical threads would not be able to securely hold the mirror (especially with the 3.5SR's tighter suspension which really lets you feel those bumpy roads).

    Has anyone else encountered this problem? My fear is the mirrors coming loose when I'm on the highway. Not sure if there is a solution, short of always checking the mirrors for a tight fit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!.
  • buppersbuppers Member Posts: 25
    I know some drivers like to 'feel the road', but if you don't like the bumpy ride in your Altima 3.5, this might help. I was very disappointed with the rough ride experienced with my new 2011 Altima 3.5SR. I felt every little bump in the road. It was becoming very annoying to me and passengers at times. The dealer said to give it more time to break in. That didn't work. Not willing to just live with it, I decided to change from the V-rated Bridgestones to H-rated Michelin tires. It made a world of difference. The Michelin H's absorb the small bumps and provide a comfortable ride that I am more accustomed to. I went from disappointment to really enjoying driving the Altima.
  • grumpfishgrumpfish Member Posts: 19
    I had a smilar feeling with our new Altima. There was a manhole which was slightly raised "a small mound" and when we hit it it was like mmmmmmmm kay this is not going to work out well. It felt like I ran over a brick. In time the feeling got better and better and things aren't so bumpy anymore. I wrote it off as a breaking in period. That is easy to do in Los Angeles, the pothole capital of the world.
  • djaroszdjarosz Member Posts: 1
    If I can, anyone can: Filter flawlessly purchased on amazon for about 1/3 of the price that dealer wanted. I removed and installed the new one myself for the first time in about 3-4 minutes (No tools). Here's how I did it: Enter via front passenger side. Remove floor mat. On fire wall area just beneath glove box, go left until you see a small protubing black plastic square shaped device. This is located and connected to the center console. Fiddle around until you find a very simple latch. Undo the latch, remove the filter cover (Black plastic strip). Place a finger into the exposed area, feel for the filter. If necessary, use a flat head screwdriver to coax it out. You may have to slightly scunch the new one to get it in.
  • indysafe317indysafe317 Member Posts: 1
    I did everything you said, got the cover off but can't get the filter out, It feels like its bigger than the opening, I'm at a loss, tried a screw driver, there must be something I'm missing
  • ynot54ynot54 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Altima that the engine turns over but will not start. Took the battery out and checked it. It has plenty of power. Cars lights, dash, chimes, windows and locks, emergency blinkers do not work. Any thoughts on what the problem is and how to correct it? This just came out of the blue. No issues..Help!
  • altimagaltimag Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I just purchased a CPO 2011 Altima 2.5s and would like to add an extended warranty plan before the car hits 10K miles. I live in AZ, found an online quote from a Nissan dealer in CA for a 84 months/120K Gold Preferred for about $1200.00. Questions: 1) Does the quote sound reasonable? 2) Anybody has experience using service contracts purchased online and using it at the local dealers? Thanks much.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    I think your question is better suited for our Extended Warranties discussion, so you might click on my link and post over there.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mrbert29mrbert29 Member Posts: 37
    I just bought the Nissan Altima Coupe brand new with 9 miles, and about 500 miles later I'm already feeling the very back of the seat against my back, as if the cushion is already worn. I'm not a heavy guy nor do I think I've been in the seat long enough to warrant this condition. It seems quality of Japanese cars have decreased. Does anyone have a comment? I've never owned a Japanese car so I don't know about wear and tear, but I do know that no car should be this low in quality if purchased brand new. Another worry is that the airbag located in the seat is shifting. Any comments please!
  • scharveyscharvey Member Posts: 5
    My sons girlfriend has a 2006 Altima with a four speed auto. It will crank and start just fine. It will not shift out of park. Impossible to move stick to any other position. Her parents think the transmission is bad. I'm thinking it's a faulty interlock. How do these work? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Stepping on the brake sends a signal to a solenoid that releases the lever. So it could be a bad brake light switch (does the car have brake lights--if not, there you go), a bad fuse to the brake lights, a bad solenoid, or faulty wiring.

    In the meantime, you can release the lever in most cars by inserting a screwdriver into a little slot next to the gearshift. You may have to pry up a little plastic tab to do this.
  • scharveyscharvey Member Posts: 5
    I was hoping it could be something simple. We will check the basics tomorrow. Thanks!
  • gen3altimarustgen3altimarust Member Posts: 1
    A nice rep with Nissan Regional Consumer Affairs says that unfortunately my warranty doesn't cover rust after 5 years. I must presume to have been negligent in the maintenance of my car or Nissan would at least consider helping with the cost to repair? The only problem I have with that assumption is that everything on my car is still like new except premature rusting through the floorboards on both the Driver's side and Passenger side of my 2005 Altima 3.5 SE with 67,000 mi! I explained I've diligently maintained this vehicle with the hopes of it lasting for years based on the reputation of imported cars. It's been garaged during most inclement weather since I have an old beater pickup to drive in the snow or rain. I explained how shocked I was when I saw all the complaints, forums, and blogs regarding this issue. There seems to be a problem either with the material (Durasteel) or the manufacturing process of all the Gen 3 and 4 Altimas that allows water to infiltrate between the metal on the floorboards causing premature rust through. There are plastic plugs that apparently become dislodged or are not installed correctly. Nissan will not accept any responsibility or help with the repairs. Nissan has been required to extend the warranty on the rear subframe so they already know there is a huge issue with the metals they're using. I'm going to continue to watch as I anticipate a class-action lawsuit soon. Regardless, I will never own another Nissan. Buyer Beware, you may be getting a "Flintstone" mobile! Especially in the Snowbelt states...Please visit www.nissanforums.com or Google "Altima Rust" if your still seriously considering throwing your money away.
    If you're another unfortunate soul facing a costly repair, please call Nissan Consumer Affairs @ 800-647-7261 8-5 in your timezone and let them know they have a problem. Right now they've "never heard of this before!" :(
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Member Posts: 71
    Let me start by admitting I'm am an anal whacko when it comes to squeaks, creaks, rattles, and buzzes in my cars and I'll chase everyone relentlessly with felt pads or silicone spray.

    I will be in the market shortly for a late-model sedan and the Altima is on my shortlist. What are owner's experinces out there? Is the Altima for me? Thanks!
  • miaminissan1miaminissan1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2005 Altima that whenever I turn on the car, put it in drive and turn on the A/C, it starts to squeak. I changed the only belt that the car has and that didn't work. I spray the belt and that helps, but it always comes back. The sound doesn't happen if the A/C is off or if I'm in neutral. I'd like to fix that noise. Hope someone can shed some light on this problem. Thanks.
  • benbailey84benbailey84 Member Posts: 3
    Get some rubbing alcohol clean off all the pulleys, make sure the belt is tight and that should take care of it.
  • wambleswambles Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2004 and when ac on and you are in drive it squeaks real bad when a say a stop sign. Now im not a mechanic but after careful observations i realize that the motor mounts where bad causing the motor to shift back an inch or two when the car was in drive. This was causing the belt to become extremely lose causing it to squeal.
  • danf67danf67 Member Posts: 5
    edited November 2011
    Any idea why my '09 Altima Sedan shakes when going over 80mph? It doesn't feel like a wheel balance issue, but it could be. I just bought the car used and didn't get it up to that speed during test drives.

    The car has 19k miles on it and the salesman told me that they had put new tires on it. I thought that seemed early for tires, but just thought "BONUS" that I got new tires. Now it seems that it must be a symptom of a problem. I did read about brake issues on the '07 and '08 models, but Consumer Reports had good ratings on this car.

    I am going back to the dealer on Monday (bought last Monday) and will ask the dealer about it, but I am beginning to not trust any auto sales or repair people. I also just noticed that the center console on the car is loose. It appears that the bolts in the rear of the console have been removed.

    If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate hearing them.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    I had this problem several times.Parkit and let it stand overnight. I solved it with a new battery and buyiNG an inexpseNSIVE spray can forremoving teminal acid buil yp. Watch out, they walk among us. When I had the same proobem on a trip to New Jersey, the nISSAN dealer said I needed a new radiTOR.!!!!tHY PUT ONE IN AT NO COST TO ME, UNDER WARRANTY.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    ANOTHER GREAT REASON FOR BUYING TIRES AT COSTCO. wHY? tire Shelf life is important and, because costco moves their inventory rapidly. My console is lose and I see a Phillips head screw needing tightening. Oh, radials have to have thetread facyng the same directioon, so, if they did not install the tires properly, I woul bet that is the cause of your problem
  • m_zm_z Member Posts: 10
    I own a "certified pre-owned" 2005 Altima S w/auto which came with 20,001 miles and lots of rust in the engine compartment and inside the seating bolts.

    Currently, every time I get it "fixed" for routine maintenance, something else comes up.
    I had the steering column components replaced since the steering wheel was shaking but now there's vibration through the floor & gas/brake pedals at hwy speeds when it wasn't there before. Now I have to bring my car back into the dealership to fix the rear seat latch which doesn't work and to see what it can do about the vibration.

    I already bought all 4 new tires and brakes ~2 months ago with the tires balanced and 4 wheel alignment at a decent local tire store. Everything was FINE then!

    No matter what I do, there's always something "wrong" with the car.

    I've noticed SO many people stating about vibrations in their car. WTH is going on with Nissan's cars?! You fix the tires, fix the brakes, balance/rotate the tires, get an alignment, fix the steering column, fix the suspension components, fix the struts... WTH should be fixed next?!

    Nissan really has a Quality Control issue and owners like us are paying DEARLY for it!

    Thank good my car still has some warranty remaining. When it runs out next year, I'll probably trade it in for a BETTER car!

    Remember that Nissan Altimas are built entirely in the USA with many components made in North America. Maybe it should be brought BACK to Japan so the quality would improve!!
  • derrickg6687derrickg6687 Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend has this car it has 180,000 miles on it and upon starting it yesterday morning its missing at an idle and when you put a load on the engine pretty bad the previous day the car was running fine. When going up hill its really struggling and seems to be burning a lot more gas than it should be and you can smell gas when its running. I took it and put it on a diagnostic machine and the only codes that popped up where camshaft position sensor. I replaced this on the car and it help well... none so someone told me to change the crankshaft position sensor which is the same part just lower on the engine (harder to get to) so Im going to try that this evening and it may very well fix the problem, but just doesnt really sound to me like that could be the problem but im no mechanic. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  • muneeb737muneeb737 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a NISSAN altima 2008 with just over 100k mileage. It drove very well when I had a test drive. Recently my car stalled at a traffic light and at around 40 k on the speedo the car jolts slightly if something is wrong and makes some kind of noise like errrrrrrrrrr till it reaches 60km/hr. Also my car is limited at a max speed of 140 Km/H. the computer cuts of the gas pedal and does not allow it over 140km/h. The

    The jolts are getting stronger but the car runs smooth other than that and the engine seems powerful. Please advise as it is my first car and I dont know what to do.
  • n2toyotan2toyota Member Posts: 2
    My suggestion. Don't buy Nissan. Saving on up front cost will cost you quite a bit in later years. I have owned Honda (Civic 1997 and Accord 2000), Nissan Altima 2006(currently using) and now own Toyota Camry 2011 (as second car). I never bothered to give Nissan a chance when I was searching for 2ns car. Not great piece of engineering. Yes Honda and Toyota have high up front price but require less maintenance. I am quite certain on Honda less maintenance but just bought used 2011 Camry to give Toyota a chance this time.
    Good Luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a misfire. You'd best get the car scanned for trouble codes so you know where to start here.
  • skyfan1skyfan1 Member Posts: 37
    I have a 2010 Altima that I bought new 1.5 years ago. I know it is not very long yet, but I have loved it so far. Sure hope I continue to feel this way.
  • rocketman101rocketman101 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Altima, has anyone had problems with the drivers seat? My car has only 32000 miles, been fixed once already tore up, took the car back they want fixed it. Nissan service sucks may not ever buy another Nissan.
  • lwtulsalwtulsa Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Nissan Altima and we've had it in the shop for repairs several times due to it not going into park. I've been told by the repair man that there was a bad cable and that cable was not manufactured by Nissan or any other manufacturer any more. Does anyone know the potential causes of not being able to shift into park? I've read a couple of other places about possibly needing a new shifter or a solenoid lock? Googling the problem would appear to indicate this is not an isolated issue. Any help is appreciated.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,280
    What was the problem with the seat?
  • jonky5jonky5 Member Posts: 2
  • jonky5jonky5 Member Posts: 2
    2003 Altima. Brake lights are out. Checked all fuses. Changed brake light switch. I know the switch is good and sending power. Tail lights work fine, just NO brake lights at all. I'm not a mechanic, so take it easy on me. This is my daughter's car who drives 2 hours to college every week. I really need to get it back on the road ASAP. Hoping to avoid the cost of sending it to the Nissan garage.
  • alishousealishouse Member Posts: 1
    What up guys, i'm a newbie so please bare with me... I have 2003 Altima 2.5L and the problem is only once the engine/coolant warms up (after 15-20 min. of driving) there's a loud buzzing or flapping noise (like a baseball card in electric spokes on a bike tire) coming from the engine when i accelerate, but once i come to a stop it goes away and comes back when i accelerate again (also the acceleration is slower/tougher)?? I've searched everywhere online for what it could be to no avail...I just changed the knock sensor and the PCV valve but nothing changed ...what could it be??! any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks
  • parkerparkerparkerparker Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A NISSAN ALTIMA 04 AND I HAVE ENCOUNTERED A FEW PROBLEMS;

    1. MY HEAT DOESNT BLOW OUT WHEN I START MY CAR UP AND LET IT RUN, I HAVE TO PHYSICALLY DRIVE IT AROUND SO THAT THE HEAT WILL BLOW OUT, WHEN I STOP AT A STOP LIGHT IT BLOWS OUT COLD AIR AS WELL.

    2. I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND MY RADIO, AND DASH BOARD(SPEEDOMETER, GAS HAND IS) LIGHTS JUST WENT OUT. THEY NO LONGER WORK

    3. WHEN I PARK MY CAR WHICH SOMETIMES I PARK ON THE GRASS IN FRONT OF MY HOME, I HEAR THIS RUSHING WATER SOUND, AND THIS BEADING NOISIE COMING FROM THE REAR VIEW MIRROR AND THE DASH BOARD

    HAS ANYONE ENCOUNTERED THESE PROBLEMS??????????? :(
  • dmechanicdmechanic Member Posts: 1
    multi function switch in steering colum,the brake lights and turn signal wiring runs thru it,advance has the and it nat hard to change.
  • altimabill2006altimabill2006 Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone ..

    I am new to the boards .My name is Bill and I have a 2006 Altima that I am sure I have a broken motor mount in it .Can anyone give me an idea of how difficult this is to fix ? Or better yet would it be covered under Warranty as I am the 7 year 100000 mile warranty on it .And if all else fail any idea on how much it should cost to have it repaired at the dealership ? Dont get me wrong ...I dont mind doing it myself but I dont want to get into something way over my head or waste my time if the warranty will cover it . Thank you everyone for any input you can provide !
  • altimabill2006altimabill2006 Member Posts: 2
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well we don't know if you have a 4 or 6 cylinder and which mount it is, but generally the "book" seems to show about 1 hour's labor for each mount so it can't be too hard. Unfortunately my database doesn't show how to do it.
  • lt2012lt2012 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2012 Altima in Dec '11 and have had a vibration from day one. I believed the sales guy when he said it was a tire pressure issue that could be fixed. They put a new set of tires on but they will not stay balanced!! The master tech basically accused me of removing the wheel weights! These tires have been balanced 9 times in 5,000 miles, but according to Nissan there is no problem. The vibration goes away for a week or so after balancing, then starts back. The weights are not coming off, just go out of balance. Anyone else have a similar issue?
  • sublime35269sublime35269 Member Posts: 2
  • sublime35269sublime35269 Member Posts: 2
    My Nissan Altima was having a problem staying above 20 mph on my way to work(engine seemed bogged down). I got my car to a CarX. The technician there told me that my upstream catalytic convertor got extremely hot and basically screwed up my entire exhaust system. CarX wanted to replace the entire system for X amount of dollars. I turned down there service and drove the car home. The technician removed the upper O2 sensor on the upstream cat. and said the car should be able to make it home. I got the car home to do the repairs myself. I first checked the dip stick and the motor was bone dry. I added about 4 quarts of oil to the motor. I put the old O2 sensor back in and took the car for another test drive. The engine seems to be running ok but there is a moderate amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do you have any suggestions?
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 altima and have taken to the dealership for the same problem since we had it. When it is cold outside, I can't start the car up ahead of time cause the air blows out cold?? Once you ride around it will heat up but if you stop at a light it will go back cold again.
    Now here a month ago, I was just driving down the interstate and the air starts blowing full blast? The climate control knob seems as it is stripped??

    Frustrating I know, I guess it could be something worst perhaps like a transmission or bad engine?? Still totally blows, cause the first problem has yet to be fixed....:((
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a pretty similiar issue as well?? since I have had the vehicle, the radio want work if I turn on the rear defrost? The dealership basically told me not to use the rear defrost....go figure???
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Member Posts: 3
    Di you ever figure out what was wrong?? My car just did the same thing within the past couple of months?? Air stays on Full blast while car is running:((
  • bobwilkinson2bobwilkinson2 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I found myself frustrated with this annoying and potentially dangerous issue on my wife's car, but I couldn't find that part anywhere on the internet either, unless I wanted to spend a lot to replace the entire visor. Taking matters into my own hands, I have come up with a home-made solution. I just did this on my own and it works! (see photo) If yours broke in the same manner that mine did, leaving the back portion of the sleeve in place (see photo), you can do this to yours. First, you're going to need a few simple tools:

    a) phillips screw driver
    b) approx 1/16" diameter metal wire (I used picture-hanging wire)
    c) exact-o knife / razor blade
    d) needle-nose pliers
    e) electric drill w/ approx 1/16" drill bit

    Nissan Altima Sun Visor Fix Photo

    I know it's kind of rigged, but if you're handy, you should be able to look at the picture and see what I did. Also, here's a shot an explaining the process: The idea is to re-join the bracket and the visor post using two wires, without the post slipping out of the broken bracket, so you need to have some of the part of the bracket that surrounds the post in-tact for this to work. After removing the bracket, I drilled a hole through the two little flanges behind the broken part of the bracket to hold the lower wire in place. I wrapped two 3" pieces of wire around the bracket, one on top, just under the head of the post, and one about 1/2" under that. Then, marked where the wires were touching the plastic and temporarily removed the wires. At those marks, using an exacto, I made small notches / grooves, about 1/2 of the diameter of the wire deep, where the wire touches the bracket and around the post, to help keep the wire from slipping up or down. The upper wire rests just under the "head"
    of the post, so it already has a nice little place to grab. Then, wrap the wires around again, seating them into your notches and tighten with the pliers about three rotations or when it feels really tight. Then, cut off any excess wire, as there is not a lot of room for these when you go to install. Your assembly should resemble mine when finished. this is ready for installation, just screw it back in place and have a great day!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Hi Bob, and welcome to the forums!
    Thanks for taking the time to write out such detailed instructions, and for providing a photo. I know you responded to a post from 2007, but I can't tell you how many times people come across info like yours, years later, and find just the fix they were looking for.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • snuff8snuff8 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2012 Nissan Altima 2.5S Coupe (auto transmission) and I've had it for about a little more than a week now. Since I'm not really familiar with the CVT transmission and I'd never heard of it prior to buying the car, I was hoping to get a second opinion from this forum. I've been noticing that the arrow on the Tachometer behaves differently than my previous car or maybe it's just me (given that I'm not an expert on cars). When I accelarated, it seemed to me that the transmission was struggling a little between shifts and the RPMs were not corresponding with the miles. One thing that really throws me off is that when I drive at 65mph the tachometer drops down to between 1000-2000 rpm. Being used to my previous car, I though that it's a little unusual for the arrow to drop down so low. I brought the car to the Nissan Service Shop and the guys over there told me that this is because of the CVT transmission. They said that (and I quote) , "with the CVT transmission you almost can't feel the shifts between gears" and that "it's normal for it to do that". My question is is this true and how does this CVT transmission work exactly? If anyone has an answer to this question, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks guys! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's a video that demonstrates a simple CVT on a motorscooter--it's not quite the same as your car but the principle is the same.

    From what you describe, the behavior is normal because there isn't an abrupt gear change.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o7MaM6tk9M
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Member Posts: 28
    I'm another casualty of the 2005 Altima rust through with the floor boards.
    Car has 85,000 miles, has been garaged since new and is perfect condition except for rusting floor boards. I had this problem with a 15 year old high mileage Corolla but never expected it with a 7 year old, low mileage, garaged vehicle. I even consciously rinse out the undercarriage whenever washing and especially in the spring to rinse out salt.
    Dealer pointed out the problem with the last oil change and inspection and said it was probably caused by rocks chipping the metal. BULL.
    From reading some forums it seems that this is a common problem but that that some few people have had some success with the dealers covering this. I'm not encouraged but will give it a try then call Nissan Customer Affairs (good luck) then file a complaint with the many others on NHTSB web site:
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/
    I would recommend anyone with the same problem to file a complaint. Only the NHTSB can order a recall/fix.
  • snuff8snuff8 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much! :)
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Member Posts: 28
    edited July 2012
    There have been some who have speculated that this is a moisture on the inside problem with salt and water from the winter or backed up air conditioner hose. Mine has rubber floor mats and has never had a drop of water on the inside and the AC pipe is clear. I pulled up the passenger side mat and floor boards were gone. There is a double wall floor board and the hole was in the bottom layer but it was easy to poke through all the way. It appears that the inside is not welded but is attached with some kind of rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top. I suspect that this is the basic cause of the problem since once I cut out the rusted area (below this stick on goop) the rest of the floor boards seemed solid. The dealer wanted $550 to fix it one side so I did it myself. It's not too bad a DIY project.
    (1) Cut out the bad area with a sawsall. It was about 18 in by 10 in. The surrounding are seemed solid
    (2) Fit in a 12x18 piece of sheet metal that I got at Home Depot
    (3) Attach with steel pop rivets.
    (4) Seal the inside with silicon caulking to keep out moisture and fumes
    (5) Spray the bottom with several coats of undercoat spray to seal the new piece to the hole in the outer piece
    (6) Total cost: Less than $20. I already had the sawsall and pop rivet gun
    I was thinking of attaching another piece of sheet metal from the bottom by attaching it to the top piece but thought that this would make it more likely to have water trapped. There is still a hole in the outer layer but the floor boards are solid. My only concern is that the undercoat spray I got was not very thick and I'm not sure if it has sealed all the voids with the hole in the outer layer. I'll shop around for something thicker.
    UPDATE:
    I used a tube of roofing tar / driveway sealer to fill in the voids where the bottom layer of metal connects to the patch galvanized steel installed from the top. This seemed to have the right consistency to fill the voids and make a watertight seal. I worked it in with a rubber glove. After seeing this I would probably skip the undercoat except to cover the galvanized steel to make it look better or spray it on after using the roofing tar.
    I checked the driver side and it is clean and pristine with no hint of rust. I did not see any plugs that could fall out. I didn't pull up the mat but I suspect the driver side does not have the rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top to hold in the top panel.
    I've declared victory!!!
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