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I have a 1995 Nissan Altima, 195000 miles, it has gone from an ave of 22mpg to 48 miles per quarter tank, this started about 2 months ago, last month, i changed the air and fuel filter, plugs and wires, and the engine doesn't miss... no change, I've had the codes shot, ignition on, and running, the only code is a knock sensor, I would appreciate any help
Thanks
Another issue, electrical, 1995 Altima, when i start my car, the marker lights and taillights come on, with my headlights on, if i cut the car off, the stereo, lights, windshield wipers all stay on until i turn the headlights off, could someone tell me which wires to look for
thanks
i tested my car in nissan company with there computer (consult 3) and showed no problem !!!!!!!!
so ... what is the soution ... do u have one for this problem?!?
It started with chain noise for which the chain adjuster was changed.
Some felt its the fuel pump and a new one was fixed yet the hard starting has persisted.
Anyone with similar experience or suggestion/solution?
This hard starting is killing me! I need serious help.
Thanks.
Is there any other cars engine that can fit into the 02 Altima say toyota corolla/camry?
Also, check system voltage while cranking engine. If it drops below a certain voltage (not sure what value on this one) the computer can do strange things. If voltage is above 10 volts this is probably not a problem. Have the car is checked out by a qualified mechanic, and if EVERYTHING checks good, I mean no computer codes, voltages ok, compression OK, new spark plugs installed, EVERYTHING, install another ecm (engine computer) On these cars, when everything checks perfectly, but the car exhibits unexplainably weird behavior, change the ecm. You can get one on ebay for less than $100.00. You will need to remove the old one from its mounting bracket under the glove box and get the model/serial number from it. Just buy a used one with than number on it. When you install it, the car should run, but probably like crap. You will need to take it to the Nissan dealer and have them reflash the ecm, go through idle relearn, and do any firmware updates necessary. How do you know if the computer you buy is good? You won't, but the probability of the new one having the same failure mode as the old one is slim to none. If it is bad, it will be covered by Ebay's warranty. Good luck. Hug your favorite leprechaun, that's the best help with these problems on these cars.
the mechanic has torn down the engine and wants to double the gasket as well as change the metals and rings! hope this works.
I still need an answer to the question - is there anyother cars engine that can fit into the Altima say toyota corolla or camry? i need to change the engine but I dont need Altima engine anymore!
Ndiboy.
i like the body design but the engine is so much stressful to maintain. anytime it has a problem it takes months to make a diagnosis.
Any clue?
Ndiboy.
I have a 95 and had the same problem many years ago,if you have not found a cure for yours I'll try to explain.
You need to talk to Nissan about this.
the axle boots are replaceable. They cost $35 each. For one side, labor is 2.3 hours. For both sides, 3.9 hours.
So at $100 an hour, seems like it would cost you about $275 to replace the boot---and I don't know your particular warranty as some automakers do NOT cover axle boots and some do.
But if they are too lazy to replace the boot and want to sell you an entire axle, then that should be under warranty---the only problem being that Nissan might kick back the warranty claim because they are replacing a perfectly good axle. That's probably why they are denying you warranty--because they know Nissan wont' spring for it.
So your task is to find out from Nissan itself whether the boot is covered or not--if not, then you'll probably have to pay to have that done.
i'd certainly carefully examine the other side boot for damage however.
http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=CTjVoVMNKUeTYMs2LyQGK3oCQBsKpmo0D2vf3zheyxdvf- TAgFEAEoBVDanvuDAWDJ1uWM5KTwE6AB-fe9_wPIAQeqBCZP0LopgKuHNgd3qKgi73gKQtMK8BQffmPB- AbUvWdpnH-k2UMauFsAFBaAGJoAH74dC4BLsmLOXgYTJ8cAB&sig=AOD64_05vGkhfYd5grNmkAmqKHq- m95gpyg&ctype=5&ved=0CDsQvhc&adurl=http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Nis- san/Altima/1AEEM00739/668635/2008%3Futm_campaign%3Dgb_api_br%26year%3D2008%26utm- _medium%3Dcomparisonshopping%26utm_source%3Dgoogle_base%26utm_content%3DEEM This is the cheapest I could find for you, they can go up to $1000.00
She says there is no keyhole on the passenger side, so she has to unlock the driver's door, then unlock all the other doors by using the switch inside.
I used to have a 2000 Maxima, and while that was remote entry, I recall that if I used the key, I could turn it once to open the driver's door, and twice to open all the doors.
I told my friend this, she asked the guy who sold her the car, and he claims the 2000 Altima did not have that feature.
I think he's blowing smoke. Can anyone tell me one way or the other, is there a way to unlock all doors by using the key, not just the interior switch?
Contacted Nissan USA about the issue and they'd "never heard of such a problem" when there's forums like this one to discuss it, it's hard to believe they've never heard of it.
This was my first and so far only brand new car. It's been through four jobs, now college, and back and forth to Chicago twice a week for 8 months. Not to mention the yearly vacations.
Hoping that Nissan owns up and admits there's a problem and decides to fix it since this is a safety issue. You might have a car but if you don't have a floorboard, you haven't got anything. That's all I need is to be driving down the road and fall out cause the floor gave way. Nice way to die......
I shouldn't be surprised - every Nissan/Infiniti I have ever owned has leaked substantially. But, nevertheless - anybody have experience with these things (2.5L) and their leaks?
Not a good idea. My brother bought one for his daughter and needed a new engine within a year at less than 80k miles. Actually it was worse than that
"GM junk"
I was told that if one of these codes goes off, it generally throws the other one too for this model and year of Altima. The mechanic also said that if the knock sensor was bad my car wouldn't even start.
My check engine light came back on this week and the Autozone computer said it was the same two codes. This is what was printed out:
ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system, probably cause: blocked passage on EGR system, failed EGR valv, EGR solenoid faulty and failed EGR pressure and position sensor (where applicable)
Knock sensor condition, probable cause:
Knock sensor defective, check connector and wiring to sensor and engine mechanical condition-knock or rattle in engine, low fuel pressure.
My question is:
Since the EGR valve is new, which of these can I eliminate as the cause? Which are pretty easy for me to do (I assume checking the connector and wiring to the knock sensor?
Just trying to get an idea of what to expect when I take it in again and how safe it is to drive my car in this position. Since it's a '99 and has about 130k miles on it, I dont want to spend a whole lot of money on it.
check the cam and crank sensors, pull the connector off and check for oil, sometimes there is a porous leak through the sensor and leaks at the terminals of the sensor into the connector causing long crank and sometimes crank/no start issues till it drips away and ur able to start again. replace the bad sensor and ur like gold
**Hope you Altima folks can help with this issue. I worked on a friend's car recently and he told me his daughter has an 05' Altima 2.5 and was having some issues with it. I told her to have her write down in as much detail as possible what she was experiencing. I had an opportunity yesterday to go to their home and take a look at the car. She said the car made a noise on the passenger side front so we took a ride and I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking there could be a brake problem, but the rotors looked great with no major wear on them. I was also listening for a clunking noise when turning which might indicate a bad CV joint but again no noise at all, so I'm thinking that's not the problem. She also wrote that there was a noise when the heater/AC is on. Now I didn't listen to this yesterday, but I'm wondering if there's an issue with the fan perhaps? The main thing I focused on was the 2 engine codes I got when I scanned the computer. One was PO335, Crankshaft Postions Sensor and the otehr one was PO725, Engine Speed Circuit malfunction. She told me that a mechanic replaced the CPS(didn't say when)but wrote that he now needed to check the connection because the car doesn't start like it did before. She writes that before this man did this work, the car would stall and shut down(Her words)
I started the car yesterday and it seemed to fire up fine, maybe a 5-6 second crank. And so very smooth is this motor. I think I saw the odometer at 125K, may be a little more, and I asked her if she ever had the timing belt replaced and she said no. I told her she may want to consider this and explained to her what can happen should it break. She was quoted a price of $500 for the job. But the main thing I want to know is why if the Crank Sensor was indeed replaces did the code come back on, and what that PO725 code translates to. I was able to clear both codes but told her they may come back as you drive. Any help I can get on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and have a great day!
Just to update my above comments about my friend's daughter's '05 Altima. I asked him the other night at work if the service engine light came back on after I cleared the codes and he said it did, as I suspected it would. So again any help anyone can give me on the above issues, especially the PO725 code would be great.