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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jabatajabata Member Posts: 14
    Altima 97

    Today, my mechanic replaced the "Knock" sensor. Darn expensive part. The "Check Engine" light is still "ON". Darn ....

    Went to Nissan dealer, showed them their diagnosis, parts were bought from them - (my mechanic in across Nissan dealer), and they told me that the car needs to be driven 3-4 days before the code "clears itself out".

    Corvette, can you advise if this is how it's happening ?

    Thank you
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    Your mechanic should have the appropriate tool to clear the codes, failing that, you could disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so to try to clear the car's memory. It may take a while after clearing the car's memory before it drives "normally" again, most cars have to recalibrate some settings after a power loss. Write down your radio presets, and be sure you have the unlock code if it has a theft lock. Good luck...
  • timaltimatimaltima Member Posts: 2
    daveed-- I also bought a 2005 altima. I noticed the reception problem quickly myself. The cd sounds great, and being a car audio buff for years, am very surprised of the stock sound from the cd. But unhappy with the quality of radio sound!!
  • timaltimatimaltima Member Posts: 2
    Does the stock radio have rca outputs to build an amplified system? If not, can I upgrade to a high end head unit and maintain the integrity of the steering wheel controls?
  • patty1patty1 Member Posts: 1
    Glad you were able to resolve the problem. Great you got a new car. I'm still waiting to see a nissan rep. Also I am now hearing a clanking noise, like when you use bad fuel. I always use Shell (87) use to use 93 but got too expensive. The service department told me to use a different gas to see if it would quit, if it doesn't he wants me to bring it in. Still like my Nissan, just want to get rid of the whining and clanking.
  • modulatormodulator Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys, I'm a new owner of a '99 altima GXE. I need to know how big this fuel tank is. I've searched around but I have been unable to find any detailed information on this vehicle (The dealership was so kind to have not included an owners manual). I am getting around 21 MPG City and I'm unsure what to expect on the road. I'm going to Alaska (4k miles away) and I need to know how much gas I can use without damaging the car. *Bonus points available if you can get a .jpg of a dead empty gas gauge* I have a 6 gallon gas tank in the trunk, which I intend to fill, but I'm worried about what I'll need to do if I do so happen to run out of gas along the way. Has anyone ever run their car into the super "E" region and run out of gas? Do you need to take off anything and put gas into it in order to get it started again or if I just put more gas in it will it start again? Ideally I won't run out of gas so... Any solutions? Also, is 21 mpg city the best this thing can do?

    -Modulator
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,272
    Do you have a read on if the gas guage is accurate? Do not take chances getting stuck and especially do not take chances with 6 gallons of gas in your trunk! Even if you get twently miles to the gallon and have a fifteen gallon tank, you're looking at filling up 13 times. Honestly, how much time are you going to save by stopping twelve times instead of 13? Over the course of a trip to Alaska, the difference is negligible.
  • modulatormodulator Member Posts: 2
    I have just took the car in for maintenance at the dealership to look at what the mpg was doing.... They ran some electronic tests of some sort on it and I think the gauge is pretty accurate from al that I can tell. In airplanes FAA regulations state that the gas gauge only has to be correct on Full and Empty. Scary huh! I have no problems filling up multiple times so that I don't run out of gas, the problem is, the # of gas stations between point A and point B. You get a last chance to fill up sign and 450 miles later you still don't see a damn gas station.
  • jlincolnjlincoln Member Posts: 1
    Just bought an 04 Altima with 26K on it. Thought I'd share some info. Had the radiator replaced under warranty as there was a leak at the top seam I discovered after smelling coolant. Being a car guy and very picky, I found the factory Continental tires to be too noisy for my liking.I had a set of Toyo's installed and an alignment and the car is noise free and extremely smooth. The Toyo's provide far better handling also.I have found the fuel mileage to be 28mpg combined and the 4cyl engine has adequate power. Not real pleased with the flimsy designed center pop-up armrest. Radio reception in particular on AM is only fair. One item I'm not happy with is a tear in the front carpet by the dead pedal area that is obviously not from abuse but due to either a flaw in assembly or poor material. I did notice a hollow area behind the carpet in that area that provides no support for the carpet. I'm trying to get Nissan to replace the carpet. The engine is somewhat buzzy however superior to many four cylinder vehicles I've had experience with. Didn't mean to bore anyone with these details but thought I'd pass them on. Anyone had a problem with the carpet tearing like mine?
  • camaro4evercamaro4ever Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 3.5 SE 2 weeks ago. The car started leaking oil from day one. Almost all the oil leaked out. When I contacted the dealer they gave me real hard time as if it was my fault.

    My car is still at the dealer. They tell me that some bolt at the oil gully was loose and the copper washer wasn't set properly. So, the car has been at the dealership for last 3 days. They also tell me that they are fixing it.

    My question is how long does it take to put a 30 cent copper washer back? Or is there any other problem that they are not telling me about?
  • delfbdelfb Member Posts: 5
    I notice that there is bit of resistance in the steering when making low speed right turns. It feels like there is a "ratcheting" feeling in the steering wheel. Does anyone else have this problem? You can also feel this when you are stopped and turn the wheel, while it is in drive. It is a little less noticeable when it is in neutral.
  • ediamiamediamiam Member Posts: 17
    Startup valve clatter may be occuring because the oil / oil filter combo you are using. I've had this in the other car (Mazda 626) using Fram/Valvoline 10/30 combination, but it went away with Purolator Premium/Havoline 10/30 HiMileage oil. I think the Havoline HM may also be slightly more viscous.
  • retiredxretiredx Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I have a 2005 Nissan Altima SL 3.5 V6. I have bought a Nissan Factory Spoiler, unfortunately it did not come with any installation instructions or a Template. I have tried many times to get them from the dealer where I bought it and have got nowhere. Is there anyone out there that can e-mail me the installation instructions or a template? You are my last hope, HELP!!! Thank you. retiredx
  • retiredxretiredx Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Altima SL 3.5 V6 Loaded. Although it only has 10,000 miles on it, it is a great car and I have had "no problems" at all. It's a fun car to drive.
  • rg_torontorg_toronto Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I am a first time poster to this site, but long time reader. Much helpful information.

    I just purchased a 2005 Altima 2.5 S. The car drives nicely, and I like the looks.

    There was a small defect with the rear centre armrest. It was not sewn completely.

    Other problem is more worrisome. There seems to be something loose under the carpet where I rest my heel on my right foot as driver. Right below the accelerator pedal It sounds like a loose piece of metal I have not taken in yet, as was waiting for an accessory that still has not arrived, but am taking in this week either way.

    Seems strange, as I would have thought it would be a solid plate in that area. I am somewhat worried because they will probably have to pull out carpet and who knows what else, and concerned about how well it will be replaced. I would like an idea of what it might be before handing over to the dealer. These days, I basically trust no one, unfortunately.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
  • jonlarjonlar Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I have the same issue, with the 2005 6 cylinder SE. Sounds like there's a loose piece of tin or plastic under the driver's side floor--not solid at all. I will have the dealer check it out when they investigate another problem, see below. This is my first Nissan, been driving Toyotas for over 12 years now. I hope Nissan is not making junk.

    On another note, from day one, I have had a very annoying wobble in the left front tire, which transfers through to vibration in the steering wheel. A friend drove it and immediately said the tires were probably not balanced. This is not a pull to the left or right (which would indicate a bad alignment), but a wobble.

    Took it to my local Nissan dealer in Tampa, FL. They checked balance and alignment and said both were fine. Service guy also took a road test with me and felt the vibration, especially around 50-60 mph. He told me that's how the car is supposed to feel, it has a lot of "road feel".

    Road feel my foot, what a load of crap! There's something wrong and they just want to pass the buck.

    Called the dealer I bought it from, on the east coast of Florida (I got it via a leasing agent, Auto Direct). The service manager there said it could be a bad tire or tires (Bridgestone Turanza). Sometimes tires are not perfectly round, or they get flat spots when sitting on a truck, ship or lot for several months. He suggested going to another Tampa Nissan dealer and testing each tire's "road force". A normal rating is 0 to 15. Anything above 15, you've got a bad tire.

    P.S. I have 17" allow wheels. Don't know if that
    affects anything.

    So, I have to get proof from Nissan that a tire is bad, then go to a Bridgestone dealer to replace the tire, IF that's what the problem is. Nissan will not replace any tires--not their warranty.

    What a hassle, especially when you get a new car that's supposed to be perfect.

    I also heard they have a TSB (technical service bulletin - recall in my words) for the 2005 Maxima, which has the same tire/vibration problem. No TSB out for the Altima yet. However, If it's happening on the Maxima, chances are good they're having the same problem with the Altima--same chassis, front wheel drive, etc.. We'll see.

    That's my 2 cents so far.

    Anyone out there with the same tire wobble/steering wheel vibration on the 2005 Altima? Please reply.

    Jonlar, Tampa
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    The road force variation balance may take care of the problem immediately, or at least identify a defective tire so that it can be replaced (and then correct the problem).
  • jabatajabata Member Posts: 14
    could this be true?

    "......#463 of 524 RECALL!!! by dean914 May 01, 2003 (10:44 am)

    Nissan has announced a recall affecting 2002 and 2003 Altimas with the 2.5 engine, and 2002Sentra SE-Rs with the 2.5 engine. It concerns the routing of the exhaust system. The cat is too close to the engine which to my unmechanical ears translates as a possible oil pan overheating, and expresses itself in excess oil consumption and engine failure if oil levels are not monitored carefully. So, that may explain why so many post here about oil consumption, although my dealer service manager says that increased consumption is normal during break-in as the rings set. If you have a 2002 SE-R, phone Nissan consumer affairs at 1-800-647-7261. The recorded announcement says that letters will go out in late May, but advises monitoring engine oil levels. If you navigate the menu, you can speak with a representative who can tell you if your car is affected provided you have your VIN. Sorry, 2002ers. I hope your path out of this hiccup is as painless as possible ...."
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    Yes, this recall went out over a year ago. You can call Nissan's 1-800 number to check for any recall campaigns that have not been completed on your car. I think the problem was solved by replacing a heat shield as well as the precatalyst and reflashing the onboard computer. If the car is consuming a lot of oil, it is probably because the precatalyst broke up inside the engine, and part of the recall for those cars is to replace the engine (Nissan pays).
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    That posting is 15 months old, so I'm sure you can find the information concerning a recall here.

    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
  • altowneraltowner Member Posts: 1
    Whatever happened with your a/c "always on"? I just bought a 2005 and brought it in for the same problem, and they gave me the TSB advising the system is always on over 37 degrees. Crazy! Thanks.
  • peterdh2000peterdh2000 Member Posts: 54
    I've done Seattle to New Orleans and back twice in my 1998 SE 5-speed. Alty's a great road car. Averaged in the low 30's mpg straight highway going 75-85mph. I drove it with the light on solid for 20-30 miles at one point. I think i got 460-470 miles on that tank.

    Before I left on the trip(s), I was getting 19-21 mpg driving all city in New Orleans, so you're not far off w/your city mpg.

    I've done 80k of fill up, drive until the light stays on, fill up again. No fuel problems, but i have done 30/60k services which i think includes a new fuel filter each time. Although I haven't done it, usually running out of gas doesn't hurt a modern car, unless it's a diesel.
  • mrholtymrholty Member Posts: 10
    Hey guys-

    Need your help again. i'm the guy from message #706 who had problems with my a/c and windows.

    Well, I still haven't had my windows fixed. Trying to save up to buy an engagement ring. But I finally found a shop that I like and feel comfortable with. I just got my compressor replaced, (dealer states it seized) and cannot tell me why. However, he has also told me my computer is bad. The computer supposedly works fine for everything else but not for the compressor. How does a computer only partially work? Does this make any sense.
    This has just changed my bill from $650 to $1600 and he wants to replace it tomorrow. Any advise on what I can do, can I get a used computer from a junkyard or anything else to save on cost. Would the bad input from the computer caused the compressor to malfunction causing it to seize?

    Thanks in advance
  • rg_torontorg_toronto Member Posts: 3
    jonlar, I had the noise under the carpet checked out. Apparently the heater vent ducts for rear seats. It runs under carpet where driver foot rests. Not the best design.

    I was apparently the first to complain about with my dealer. I am a bit miffed that they did not know the vent was there and they had to access via the carpet somehow. I just hope they did not do any damage looking for it.

    I would like to hear what your dealer says, just to confirm the story I am being told.

    Good Luck.
  • mrholtymrholty Member Posts: 10
    I just want to say that all my issues have been fixed and I was treated better than I could humanly expect. After a few places that I had gone to feeling like I had gotten a run around, I went to Cooper Nissan in the Lehigh Valley, Easton PA and they were wonderful. They took time to explain all of the issues, checked on warranty status and saved me a ton of money. I appreciate everything they have done and I won't go anywhere else.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,272
    I've got the same problem with my 2003. I've reported it twice to my dealer (Koeppel Nissan in Queens, NY) and to Nissan USA. Every time, it comes back, no problem found. The service reps at Nissan USA have no understanding of their waaranty or cars in general. I'm tired of reporting this problem.
  • jonlarjonlar Member Posts: 2
    I got Nissan to measure the road force and the left front tire came in at 45 (0-15 is normal). So, I went to a local Firestone tire dealer and they replced that tire free of charge. They said the tire I had had a "high spot". Vibration and wheel wobble appears to have cleared up upon acceleration, but not upon braking.

    I will drive it a week or so and see what happens. The leasing service had the car driven 250 miles to my house (on a bad tire). Did that screw up the front brake rotors and should I have those recut? Could that explain why I still feel vibration upon braking?

    Obvious question: Why couldn't Nissan have figured out this problem with a simple road test before delivering the car to me?

    jonlar
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    Why couldn't Nissan have figured out this problem with a simple road test before delivering the car to me?
    ================================================

    They are paid to prep the car. Slimy dealers skip the parts that they feel can be skipped, such as road testing the car. It's just like returning a warranty claim NPF - no problem found. They get paid for that also, without the need to perform any actual diagnosis or repair.

    Your brake rotors could be warped, but I don't think it was the tire/wheel that did it. Get the mechanic to ride in the car with you so you can demonstrate the problem.
  • hipreckhipreck Member Posts: 67
    Isn't that the most annoying, stupid "feature". I had a 05 SE for three months and gave up on it. Too many dumb problems.
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    Is there an on/off button for the A/C? And am I correct in assuming that, on the 2005 models, all it does is activate a light, since the compressor is on all the time?
  • silver58silver58 Member Posts: 5
    pplcreole,
    I hadn't checked the forum until today when I saw your question. No problems with the car since the air mass sensor was fixed. Hope you were able to solve your problem too.

    silver58
  • paigekatpaigekat Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2005 SE, it has already been in the shop 5 times for a whistling noise that occurs with deceleration. This last time, the DTS came out and said that the noise is normal, because it can be reproduced in one other altima. This is unacceptable. Nissan customer service says that DTS has the final say and that I must deal with the problem. Has anyone else experienced this whistling/high pitch noise, what should I do?
  • retiredxretiredx Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone tell me where the diagnostic port is located on the 2005 Nissan Altima?
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  • babbsbabbs Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know about the side molding for the 2000 Altima.
    Can you purchase the same(original or aftermarket) body side molding which was Color resin plastic to match the car color as you could when the car was new (take it out of the box and stick it on)? OR…………….. Do you have to purchase plain molding and paint it to match the car which will not match the original molding?
    IN other words………………… Can you buy the same molding that was on the car when it was new in 2000 now or do you have to buy and paint it to match?
  • mgobluemgoblue Member Posts: 2
    Is there an adjustment that can be made to my 04 SE to that there is power to the 12V power supply ports even after the car is off and the key is removed. It would be nice to be able to charge my cell phone, etc., while the car is parked and I am not in it.

    Seems like the fix in my 97 Grand Cherokee was to move a fuse from one position to another. I have not found any such fix in the owner's manual. Any thoughts or ideas out there?

    Thanks in advance for your responses.
  • gatorzgatorz Member Posts: 1
    Hello Max! Just curious if you had your problems looked at, by the dealer? I seem to have your #5 issue "Like when I take off the car will hesitate then TAKE OFF like a bat out of hell." & #6 issue "The radio reception SUCKS". Not all my radio stations, but about a 1/3 of them. I didn't have that problem with my last vehicle (Ford Expedition). Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • retiredxretiredx Member Posts: 4
    I didn't get any help but I did find the diagnostic port myself. I have posted a couple of issues/questions about my 05 Altima but have never got a response. Wonder why??? There must be a couple of experts out there.
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    I regularly read the board, but only post when I know an answer. The only thing I could have come off with on that would be "under the dash somewhere."
  • altima_husbandaltima_husband Member Posts: 1
    Howdy,

    I've had the same problem. It turned out that after the engine heats up and gets significantly hot, the distributor ends up getting warm as well. Well, to save you the bore of the engineering thremodynamics behind it, as an element heats up, the resistance increases, thus creating an everso increasingly difficult route for the current to flow into each of the spark plugs.

    You may eliminate some of the problems (like i did) by listening to your mechanic and getting the distributor cap and rotor as well as spark plug wires and plugs replaced. But trust me, that is costly as well, however does not eliminate the problem.

    My altima is a 1995 and yours being a '94 sounds like its a likely client of the distributor as well.

    Buy the Distributor from a junk yard and it'll save you a few hundred dollars.

    Just remember, it's the distributor, NOT THE Distributor Cap; the distributor is located underneath the cap and rotor (it's what turns the mechanical rotor on these older cars).

    Hope this helps.
  • eomckameyeomckamey Member Posts: 26
    On this 4 cyl engine, oil filler cap was extremely hard to turn/removing same. The cap appears to be "click" type but owner's manual doesn't describe same. Got cap off, reinstalled same, turning same until it does click. Anyone with similar experience?

    Jacking/Lift points: Owner's manual only describes 4 points at panel edge points behind front/ahead of rear wheels. Believe there may be a center lift point at front of vehicle, ahead of engine...as a part of the engine/body support member. Also...Is there any center lift point at rear of vehicle? Anyone with knowledge about same? Would really appreciate some help.
  • dballdball Member Posts: 15
    How about warranty servicing here in central FL? I bought a pre-owned 2002 Altima from Daytona Nissan (something I swore I'd never do) and I have a few recalls to get taken care of and a vibration in the steering wheel at 70 MPH, which they have already told me is because of "the suspension on the 4 cyl model." Sounds like baloney to me... Anybody have this problem? Anyway, love the car but don't trust Daytona to service it. Any suggestions? Thank you!
  • alexandar24alexandar24 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my new 2005 Altima SE a month ago and here are the problems:
    1) when my automatic transmission is in Parking (P) - and when I slightly press gas pedal I hear some kind of a water sound inside my car. Same thing happens when I am in the drive on the road.
    2) the other problem is about EC Mirror w/Compass - my EC Mirror simply does`not work properly. I turn off the EC mirror - and then turn on again (while is dark outside) and it`s working only 5-6 minutes and after that it won`t work properly - mirror is acting like any kind of a regular basic inside mirror without EC option.
    I have Gold 5-year warranty bumper to bumper - and I am sure they will take care of it but I am still interested is this a big problem or what? I mean, it has only 1600 miles and is old only a month.

    I will be very gratefull if somebody explain me those problems in the e-mail message. My adress is alexandar24@gmail.com.

    Thank you very much! Aleksandar
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    No suggestions for which dealer, but they need to balance the tires if you are having a vibration issue. If they can't be balanced, take it to a shop with a Hunter machine to do a road force variation balance (which may find some that are out of spec and need replacement). Also check the alignment and suspension components.
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    You're right, the oil cap is a "clicker" like the gas cap. It's not that hard to install, but removal is a pain in the keyster. It has a handle so you can grab it with pliers if necessary. I'm not sure on the lift points.
  • dee4dee4 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me why my lights keep flashing and the horn continues to beep (about every ten minutes or so) as though I'm setting my alarm.
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    Either there's another remote that's getting hit, or one of the computers has gone postal. Take it to the dealer, should be an easy fix if you can repeat it. I saw a parked Impala yesterday morning with the low beams flickering on and off (and no one inside), weird stuff...
  • shekharshekhar Member Posts: 23
    My 1994 Altima GXE, starts OK without any warning lights coming on. After a few miles, if I happen to go over a pothole (miniscule), the ABS warning light comes ON.
    I showed it to the dealer, and paid $80 for diagnosis. What do I know now? : The Rear Right ABS sensor is DEAD. Dealer wants $180 in parts and $165 in labor. NAPA sells the part for $78, but does not have it in stock (and may not have for some time). My corner mechanic can install the part for cheap.
    My question is what part do I need to order and from where, because I see several sensors for ABS (wheel sensor, speed sensor etc.).
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,236
    The $80 dianosis should have told you exactly which part was dead. Call the service department and ask them. Ideally they will be able to give you both the code they pulled and the part number and description.
  • shekharshekhar Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the input. The description on service sheet (printed out for me) does not mention any codes. It states "replace the rear right sensor and if the problem persists than work backwards to the ABS control unit". Control unit replacement may cost upwards of $900 at the dealer (including labor) :(
    I have borrowed the Chilton Manual for Altima from local library. It gives a simple visual procedure for reading codes. It involves "grounding the L terminal of data link connector" located under the dash. Unfortunately the diagram does not show "data link connector", is it called by any other name? Because I can find the "relay connectors" and "actuator connectors" in addition to the "sensor connectors", all shown under the hood !
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