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Today, my mechanic replaced the "Knock" sensor. Darn expensive part. The "Check Engine" light is still "ON". Darn ....
Went to Nissan dealer, showed them their diagnosis, parts were bought from them - (my mechanic in across Nissan dealer), and they told me that the car needs to be driven 3-4 days before the code "clears itself out".
Corvette, can you advise if this is how it's happening ?
Thank you
-Modulator
My car is still at the dealer. They tell me that some bolt at the oil gully was loose and the copper washer wasn't set properly. So, the car has been at the dealership for last 3 days. They also tell me that they are fixing it.
My question is how long does it take to put a 30 cent copper washer back? Or is there any other problem that they are not telling me about?
I just purchased a 2005 Altima 2.5 S. The car drives nicely, and I like the looks.
There was a small defect with the rear centre armrest. It was not sewn completely.
Other problem is more worrisome. There seems to be something loose under the carpet where I rest my heel on my right foot as driver. Right below the accelerator pedal It sounds like a loose piece of metal I have not taken in yet, as was waiting for an accessory that still has not arrived, but am taking in this week either way.
Seems strange, as I would have thought it would be a solid plate in that area. I am somewhat worried because they will probably have to pull out carpet and who knows what else, and concerned about how well it will be replaced. I would like an idea of what it might be before handing over to the dealer. These days, I basically trust no one, unfortunately.
Thanks for any suggestions.
On another note, from day one, I have had a very annoying wobble in the left front tire, which transfers through to vibration in the steering wheel. A friend drove it and immediately said the tires were probably not balanced. This is not a pull to the left or right (which would indicate a bad alignment), but a wobble.
Took it to my local Nissan dealer in Tampa, FL. They checked balance and alignment and said both were fine. Service guy also took a road test with me and felt the vibration, especially around 50-60 mph. He told me that's how the car is supposed to feel, it has a lot of "road feel".
Road feel my foot, what a load of crap! There's something wrong and they just want to pass the buck.
Called the dealer I bought it from, on the east coast of Florida (I got it via a leasing agent, Auto Direct). The service manager there said it could be a bad tire or tires (Bridgestone Turanza). Sometimes tires are not perfectly round, or they get flat spots when sitting on a truck, ship or lot for several months. He suggested going to another Tampa Nissan dealer and testing each tire's "road force". A normal rating is 0 to 15. Anything above 15, you've got a bad tire.
P.S. I have 17" allow wheels. Don't know if that
affects anything.
So, I have to get proof from Nissan that a tire is bad, then go to a Bridgestone dealer to replace the tire, IF that's what the problem is. Nissan will not replace any tires--not their warranty.
What a hassle, especially when you get a new car that's supposed to be perfect.
I also heard they have a TSB (technical service bulletin - recall in my words) for the 2005 Maxima, which has the same tire/vibration problem. No TSB out for the Altima yet. However, If it's happening on the Maxima, chances are good they're having the same problem with the Altima--same chassis, front wheel drive, etc.. We'll see.
That's my 2 cents so far.
Anyone out there with the same tire wobble/steering wheel vibration on the 2005 Altima? Please reply.
Jonlar, Tampa
"......#463 of 524 RECALL!!! by dean914 May 01, 2003 (10:44 am)
Nissan has announced a recall affecting 2002 and 2003 Altimas with the 2.5 engine, and 2002Sentra SE-Rs with the 2.5 engine. It concerns the routing of the exhaust system. The cat is too close to the engine which to my unmechanical ears translates as a possible oil pan overheating, and expresses itself in excess oil consumption and engine failure if oil levels are not monitored carefully. So, that may explain why so many post here about oil consumption, although my dealer service manager says that increased consumption is normal during break-in as the rings set. If you have a 2002 SE-R, phone Nissan consumer affairs at 1-800-647-7261. The recorded announcement says that letters will go out in late May, but advises monitoring engine oil levels. If you navigate the menu, you can speak with a representative who can tell you if your car is affected provided you have your VIN. Sorry, 2002ers. I hope your path out of this hiccup is as painless as possible ...."
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
Before I left on the trip(s), I was getting 19-21 mpg driving all city in New Orleans, so you're not far off w/your city mpg.
I've done 80k of fill up, drive until the light stays on, fill up again. No fuel problems, but i have done 30/60k services which i think includes a new fuel filter each time. Although I haven't done it, usually running out of gas doesn't hurt a modern car, unless it's a diesel.
Need your help again. i'm the guy from message #706 who had problems with my a/c and windows.
Well, I still haven't had my windows fixed. Trying to save up to buy an engagement ring. But I finally found a shop that I like and feel comfortable with. I just got my compressor replaced, (dealer states it seized) and cannot tell me why. However, he has also told me my computer is bad. The computer supposedly works fine for everything else but not for the compressor. How does a computer only partially work? Does this make any sense.
This has just changed my bill from $650 to $1600 and he wants to replace it tomorrow. Any advise on what I can do, can I get a used computer from a junkyard or anything else to save on cost. Would the bad input from the computer caused the compressor to malfunction causing it to seize?
Thanks in advance
I was apparently the first to complain about with my dealer. I am a bit miffed that they did not know the vent was there and they had to access via the carpet somehow. I just hope they did not do any damage looking for it.
I would like to hear what your dealer says, just to confirm the story I am being told.
Good Luck.
I will drive it a week or so and see what happens. The leasing service had the car driven 250 miles to my house (on a bad tire). Did that screw up the front brake rotors and should I have those recut? Could that explain why I still feel vibration upon braking?
Obvious question: Why couldn't Nissan have figured out this problem with a simple road test before delivering the car to me?
jonlar
================================================
They are paid to prep the car. Slimy dealers skip the parts that they feel can be skipped, such as road testing the car. It's just like returning a warranty claim NPF - no problem found. They get paid for that also, without the need to perform any actual diagnosis or repair.
Your brake rotors could be warped, but I don't think it was the tire/wheel that did it. Get the mechanic to ride in the car with you so you can demonstrate the problem.
I hadn't checked the forum until today when I saw your question. No problems with the car since the air mass sensor was fixed. Hope you were able to solve your problem too.
silver58
Thanks!
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Can you purchase the same(original or aftermarket) body side molding which was Color resin plastic to match the car color as you could when the car was new (take it out of the box and stick it on)? OR .. Do you have to purchase plain molding and paint it to match the car which will not match the original molding?
IN other words Can you buy the same molding that was on the car when it was new in 2000 now or do you have to buy and paint it to match?
Seems like the fix in my 97 Grand Cherokee was to move a fuse from one position to another. I have not found any such fix in the owner's manual. Any thoughts or ideas out there?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
I've had the same problem. It turned out that after the engine heats up and gets significantly hot, the distributor ends up getting warm as well. Well, to save you the bore of the engineering thremodynamics behind it, as an element heats up, the resistance increases, thus creating an everso increasingly difficult route for the current to flow into each of the spark plugs.
You may eliminate some of the problems (like i did) by listening to your mechanic and getting the distributor cap and rotor as well as spark plug wires and plugs replaced. But trust me, that is costly as well, however does not eliminate the problem.
My altima is a 1995 and yours being a '94 sounds like its a likely client of the distributor as well.
Buy the Distributor from a junk yard and it'll save you a few hundred dollars.
Just remember, it's the distributor, NOT THE Distributor Cap; the distributor is located underneath the cap and rotor (it's what turns the mechanical rotor on these older cars).
Hope this helps.
Jacking/Lift points: Owner's manual only describes 4 points at panel edge points behind front/ahead of rear wheels. Believe there may be a center lift point at front of vehicle, ahead of engine...as a part of the engine/body support member. Also...Is there any center lift point at rear of vehicle? Anyone with knowledge about same? Would really appreciate some help.
1) when my automatic transmission is in Parking (P) - and when I slightly press gas pedal I hear some kind of a water sound inside my car. Same thing happens when I am in the drive on the road.
2) the other problem is about EC Mirror w/Compass - my EC Mirror simply does`not work properly. I turn off the EC mirror - and then turn on again (while is dark outside) and it`s working only 5-6 minutes and after that it won`t work properly - mirror is acting like any kind of a regular basic inside mirror without EC option.
I have Gold 5-year warranty bumper to bumper - and I am sure they will take care of it but I am still interested is this a big problem or what? I mean, it has only 1600 miles and is old only a month.
I will be very gratefull if somebody explain me those problems in the e-mail message. My adress is alexandar24@gmail.com.
Thank you very much! Aleksandar
I showed it to the dealer, and paid $80 for diagnosis. What do I know now? : The Rear Right ABS sensor is DEAD. Dealer wants $180 in parts and $165 in labor. NAPA sells the part for $78, but does not have it in stock (and may not have for some time). My corner mechanic can install the part for cheap.
My question is what part do I need to order and from where, because I see several sensors for ABS (wheel sensor, speed sensor etc.).
Any help would be appreciated.
I have borrowed the Chilton Manual for Altima from local library. It gives a simple visual procedure for reading codes. It involves "grounding the L terminal of data link connector" located under the dash. Unfortunately the diagram does not show "data link connector", is it called by any other name? Because I can find the "relay connectors" and "actuator connectors" in addition to the "sensor connectors", all shown under the hood !