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Is there a better way/ cheaper way to do it?
Since I dont use the car that much and it already has 125K miles on it (built in 1997) I was wondering if anyone could advice me of an efficient and cheap way to do it? If you guys feel that replacing the exhaust shall be the best way please feel free to say so.
Thanks a lot!
Suj, Minneapolis.
I took the car in to the dealership but they said nothing is located underneath the driver side. it's almost if a bolt or something is loose underneath that area.
anyone have similar problem and know what it is?
what did you noise sound like? how do I go about getting this fixed if the dealership keeps saying they can't find anything?
I very much appreciate your input.
-Sujeet.
First, they said I needed a new distributor cap,coil, ignition coil, spark plugs, etc. Cost was $900. Now after installing all these, they tell me that the engine valves are gone, and they could not find that out earlier since there was no spark.
Their explanation is that the distributor was burnt, filled with oil, and that got the valves hot, and burnt two out, while the other two have low compression. Bottom line, they are now telling me that I need a new engine, and getting a new head will end up blowing the old engine.
Is this baloney? Am I being taken for a ride? Am I better off getting a new car? This one has $137K miles on it, and has run great till now. Estimates for a rebuilt engine is $2500 - $3500.
Terry
I had an oil change done at a dealership in March 2004 and the car was running fine. However from June 28th through August 28th, I did not drive the car. When I started the car then, the oil light was on. The engine was also making a knocking noise. I took the car to a different dealership than the one that I got the oil change done earlier. They did a oil change, told me that I had very less oil and the person who did the previous oil change did not crush a oil plug when doing the oil change which led to a oil leak. Once I started driving the car after the oil change, I noticed the car had no power and I needed to accelerate a lot. I took the car back to the second dealer and they did diagnostic tests on the car and told me that the engine had internal damage (because of the oil leak) and had low compression and that the engine would need to be replaced ($ 2450). I took the car to the dealer that did the oil change in March and looked at the car and told me that the engine is fine but I have a timing problem. They said that they made a temporary fix by realigning the distributor but would need to remove the timing cover to figure what really was wrong. The cost of removing the timing cover would be $ 650 and then they could figure out what the problem is.
I guess I do not know which dealer to trust since both are giving conflicting opinions about the problem. I called Nissan Consumer Affairs and they could not help me much.
I would appreciate it if anyone could provide me with some input on this.
Best of Luck
Thanks.
Thanks in advance,
miles, service engine light came and gone 2-3 times already. i even passed inspection in jersey.
i fixed the service light for my 96 towncar and it cost me $450. i have seince ignord this check engine light issue.
I have a Nissan Altima (year 2001 at 101K miles).
Recently I have started having
problem where the car is about to stall at low RPM (600 to 500)
while stopping at the traffic lights. Any ideas where to begin?
I have replaced spark plugs, cable set myself at 99K miles
thinking that this should fix the problem. No, same problem came
back when stopping at lights. Low RPM (600 to 500).
in a difference instances I also replaced the pulley cable
and lower radiator hose at $100K miles; the cable broke while driving
and I begin to lose my power steering, check battery light on and check
engine light is on too, it die on me by time I pulled into the gardge.
after fixing the pulley cable I am still having the same problem - low
RPM at the light and I have a feeling one of these day he will die on me.
Any ideas??
Thanks,
Tommy
very professional and a very nice facility.
problem:
Check engine light came on and off. low rpm at the light.
Diag: Error code P0171 - fuel system lean B1 - Intake manifold gasket leaking.
Price: $830!! are you out of your mind?
a quick search on this forums, found similar problem and repair cost at Message #296 and Message #297.
Final decision: do nothing.
car run great at 101K, push to Park at the light
or run the light while no one watching.
Also, are there any other parts that I need to replace at this mileage? Thanks
Qty 4 spark plug from pepboys $8.36
Qty 1 wire set from pepboys $$47.59
ever since i did the above myself, i have spend
another $181 to replace the valve cover gasket
because oil leak inside the spark plugs.
$536 to replace drive belt idle pullie, alternator p/s belt, new battery and radiator lower by pass hose plus labour;
because the idle pulley cable broke while i am driving to work.
all these happen right after i replaced the spark plugs in one month time frame.
....and i am still low on RPM at the light.
Last saturday, some knucklehead hit the passenger side power mirror, destoyed it and drove off. Spent $240. for a replacement mirror, but now need to get it painted to match the Titanium Frost color.
Here's a list of recent expenditure's :
(1) replaced Valve Cover Gasket, Front Crank Seal, and Lower Oil Pan Gasket to cure persistent oil leak.
(2) replaced battery, Oil Pressure Switch and right and left Side Axles.
(3) Rear brakes.
(4) replaced Radiator, Water Pump and Front Engine Mount.
All this work was done within a 13 month period...and now the finiky power window.
Needless to say, we're not happy campers!!!
The Sandman :-(
Did you ever get advice on the driver side power front window? Mine's dying too - 2000 Altima with 49K Miles and wanted some tips. Did you get your looked at?
Thanks,
dc_newbie
The wife has decided to wait until it breaks or until after we visit the Ft. Lauderdale Auto Show in March, as she wants to find a vehicle that she's comfortable with first in case we buy before Memorial Day. Deep down she really wants a newer car, and what better place to check out all the competing models on her short list.
Let's hope the window holds up, but you know how it goes...after putting money into a higher mileage car, you end up buying a new car within a short period of time!
The Sandman :-(
I actually took my car to the dealer and he diagnosed that the problem was the switch itself. I went over to parts and they confirmed that they seel lots of these. I bought a OEM replacement switch for $87 and it took me about 10 mins to change it myself. The power windows work perfect now - both directions ...knock on wood :-)
If you decide to change it and need help changing it - feel free to ping me at schnappes98@yahoo.com.
After playing around with the older (bad) switch it occurs to me that the driver side (auto) window button is different from the others and sometimes need to pull or tug it higher to operate the window. I did a bunch of diff tests, and if you ever get stuck it might be easiest to push down on the swicth all the away (and don't worry about the window going down) and then pull it up (may need a lil more force on the switch)....
Well it's been a fun morning....playing around with it and figuring it out....
Good Luck!
Again, thanks for the information and glad I could help you out!!!
The Sandman :-)
I hope you can help me. A very good friend of mine owns a 1998 Altima SE and when she drives down the interestate after about 50 miles or so she starts to hear this chirping which is intermitenet and then becomes a constant howl as she drives.
I know that it is speed governed (faster she goes the faster the chirp and then the howl)
She just had all the brakes replaced, and checked
It is coming from the front right corner..
I think that it might be a drive axle, but i dont know much or enough about these cars to tell.. What do you guys think it could be??
Thanks ahead of time for the help!!
Titania
Thank You Very Much
Titania or
theonlytitania@gmail.com