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Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2004

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Comments

  • rattles33rattles33 Member Posts: 18
    You can get a new 2002 lx in chicago for 24k, why would you spend that much on an older van with that many miles?
  • gessgess Member Posts: 90
    I think Opus99 was talking Canadian dollars. Msrp new for a '99 was $30,600.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    150,000km is quite a lot for a 3 year old vehicle. The Black Book says $15625-17500 for a 99 LX with 120,000km as a trade in less reconditioning costs. You've got to figure another $2-3000 less than that for the extra kms. As these are trade in figures you then need to add $2-3000, which brings you back to the $15500-17500 range. You should try to negotiate it into that range if you are still interested but personally I don't think I'd buy it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The '99s were version 1.0, and had more tranny problems than later models. With that high mileage, no warranty left over, and a relatively high price, it doesn't seem worth it.

    -juice
  • trencher7trencher7 Member Posts: 48
    I love everything about my Odyssey but 2 things.

    1. Gas light comes on way too prematurely.

    2. Along the back door where the Honda badge is (the strip right under the window), I have at least 10 dents (impressions) that run all along the strip of sheetmetal. Nothing has ever hit the car to make these dents. It's as if the sheet metal was poorly designed and it dents it self with motion or opening or closing of the door. I want to take it in, but not sure what they can do. Anyone else with this problem of a self denting car?
  • misterpeabodymisterpeabody Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have an Ody in Red Rock Pearl? Could you describe the color - is it a deep burgundy red? Brochure and Honda's web site aren't much help. Any color comparisons you can make would be great.

    Has anyone seen what Havasu Blue looks like? This color is due out Spring 2002.

    Thanks.
  • sameshimasameshima Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 EX, and use Thule Rapid Railing bars with a Classic box on top. Works well and fits fine.
  • geb1geb1 Member Posts: 19
    I have noticed some ripples around the rear license plate and a slight bulge on the rear bumper. They are only visible when the van is clean and the light is just right. Its not enough to worry about and I think it would be very difficult for the dealer to make it perfect.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    If you fill up after the fuel light comes on, how many gallons does it take until full? I haven't waited long enough to see mine yet, but I would think it should light at around the 5 gallon level.
    Opinion for Opus: I would not spend $16,500USD for a '99 Odyssey with 93,000 miles (that's a USD equivalent roughly 2/3 the cost of a new LX, based on gess's follow-up post), unless there was no way to afford more. Since you are considering spending another $10,000CDN to buy a used EX, I am thinking a restricted budget is not an issue for you. The warranty on the Odyssey being what it is (fairly weak on powertrain), and the improvements being what they are in the '02 (significant), I think it would be in your best interest to spring for a new one. The EX has a lot of extra stuff, but most of it is insignificant. For $600USD, you can add Honda alloys keeping the standard steel rims as winter wheels. A few hundred more will put in a superior stereo. The power doors are a potential headache down the line, and in my opinion, dangerous if you have small children.
    The often wacky asking prices for used Odysseys is great news for us owners, but you have to be the Barnum, not the sucker he spoke about.
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    IMHO, the power sliders could be a headache down the road, but I still think it's safer than the manual doors since they would be traveling quicker than the powered ones. For those who had no problems with using the manual doors, why would the power sliders be any more dangerous, barring something foolish was done? Just curious.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    When you close a manual door, there is a certain level of care and caution used to make sure all passengers (namely kids) are either in their seats after entering or clear of the vehicle after exiting. I believe that the slow travel of the automatic door creates a situation where the driver (mom/dad) begins his or her motion toward the driver's door while the door is still closing. It's during this 10 second period that a small child may put a hand in the path of the closing door. I know all vehicles with these doors have safety mechanisms, and I don't know how sensitive they are. Try putting a 1/2 used roll of paper towels in the path of the door and see how well it reverses. This will give you an idea of how much pressure will be put on a small child's hand. I tried this at a Ford dealer a few years back on a '99 Windstar when they came out with auto-sliders in late '98. I used my wallet (I'm smart enough not to use my hand in these tests) and it exerted enough force on my wallet that would have, in my opinion, broken every bone in a child's (or adult's hand). Even if your test seems to show the door to be sensitive enough to prevent injury, ask yourself how reliable electronics around your household have been, and how long you can trust the sensor to remain calibrated. And how much do you trust the technicians (parts swappers) at the Honda dealer to test and calibrate them. Not to sound like Dennis Miller, but that's just my opinion. I could be wrong.
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    That is exactly true, so if anyone gets hurt from the power sliders as mentioned above, shouldn't it be the parent's/driver's fault and not the system's (in the above case)? There is only so much one can do to make things "fool proof". All children who sit in the second seat in my van are strapped in and and told to stay put, whenever the doors are operating (i.e. no one touches the door).

    A comparison to this would be AWD, does having AWD give some drivers more confidence than they should have? Yes, it does, but does that mean that AWD is not better than either FWD or RWD? Probably not. Given that the driver respects his/'her options and drives accordingly, AWD is still better to have (in terms of safety). Same goes with the power sliders. As usual, education about these conveniences is a better solution than putting blame on them.

    BTW, I did test out the reverse-sensors on my sliders, started out with my forearm, then tried my hand. The doors do put a little squeeze on the hand, probably to a child it would hurt, but nothing that would cause dismembermant or broken bones (I hope).
  • ponch49ponch49 Member Posts: 17
    There has to be a better deal somewhere else. I purchased a used 99 EX last year for just over $24,000 Cdn with 55,000 kms. I managed to find someone who wanted out of their lease and purchased the van outright. With the mileage under 60k, I was also able to purchase the extended warranty (another great deal I managed to get through email requests to dealers). In the end, it is your money but I wouldn't spend it on that one...and with the price being nonnegotiable (firm), I would keep looking.
  • rockycowrockycow Member Posts: 114
    I have a couple of soft tissue dents caused by my 105lb daughter shutting the back door and pushing hard with the hand to shut it, NOW --we all shut the back door by pushing on the plastic tail light cover. I'm going to have the dents removed by a local paintless dent repairer
    rockycow
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    To close the rear hatch we use the handle to pull it down, when we feel the door rotate past the equilibrium point we let gravity do the rest. There should be no need to push it in to get it to latch. If you do, then your rubber bumpers (on the hatch) need to be adjusted. This is analogous to adjusting the tension on garage doors (non automatic ones of course). A properly adjusted door should be able to be opened/closed with one hand. Hope this helps.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    I'm thinking along the lines of kids who are old enough to climb aboard and belt themselves in, but not necessarily old enough to be fully aware of the closing door and the danger of getting fingers caught in it. Don't get me wrong: if my dealer had given me an EX at the price of the LX (or even split the difference in cost), I wouldn't have turned it down. I just think in terms of the necessity of power doors, once you're past the phase of carrying very young kids, their value becomes much lower, almost silly if you think about it. You wouldn't buy an automatic sliding door for your shower unless you were handicapped, right? Have we become so lazy that a sliding door requiring 5 pounds of force has to be automated? The automatic rear door on Chrysler minivans is even better, but at least some shorter-than-average people might argue that it's hard to reach up to it. I will say that closing the Odyssey rear hatch is much easier than the Dodge Caravan's.
  • wardley99wardley99 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all, I am considering to install a hidden trailer hitch Class III for my 2000 Odyssey EX and am wondering if it could cause the rear end to sag. Also, do I need to install the transmission cooler as well. I plan to use the van to tow a 2000 lbs camper trailer. Any insight is welcome. BTW. I love my van.
  • dave84dave84 Member Posts: 75
    Differences between getting into a minivan and getting into a shower:

    1. I very rarely need to open my shower door while holding an armful of groceries (only need two fingers to press the button for the power slider).

    2. Sometimes I want the van door to open as I'm making my way towards the vehicle, so I can more quickly escape a rain shower. When I open the door to my shower, it's because I *want* to get wet.

    3. When I'm traveling with small kids who may have trouble opening (and closing) a minivan sliding door by themselves, having the electric sliders is a great time saver and hassle ender. When I'm opening the shower door, it's usually because I'm the only one going in or out.

    We have an EX, and think the power sliders are the best thing since sliced bread. Nineteen months of operation, one very energetic and strong-willed five year old, and no safety concerns.
  • seattletoddseattletodd Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I were test driving an EX last weekend. I tried to sit in the third row bench seat. Even with the middle row pushed forward, I felt like my knees were up my nose because the third row sat so low to the floor. (I am only 5' 10) Can anybody comment on the comfort level of the third row seats for adults?
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    Obviously, you never saw the Seinfeld episode where Kramer prepared food in the shower; you never know when you'll have an armful of groceries going into one.
    I also have to take issue with you on the auto sliding doors being the greatest thing since sliced bread. I think that would go to the radio, TV, telephone, computer, microwave....
    Seattle Todd: If you sat in the third row yourself, and you now know it's not comfortable, are you hoping some short people will tell you that it's comfortable for them?
  • inkyinky Member Posts: 370
    I have, nice color but not super nice like the DM red on their vans. It is more of a ford red not candy apple. Toyota has very similar color on 02 Camry. Kind of a burnt red. Looks good in sunshine but a little gloomy in shadows. Anyhow, only waited two weeks and was the color available. What I like most it at least is known to be a 02 by color. Lots of those earth color vans running around.
    INKY
  • billg7billg7 Member Posts: 342
    The third seat is not going to be very comfortable for average size adults over long distances. It should work well for kids or adults over short distances. The Honda Odyssey third seat is rated for comfort, by Consumer Reports as the best of the minivans, and is rated above average.

    Very few third seats are going to be very comfortable for adults over long distances. No minivans third seats will be. If you want that feature perhaps the largest GM SUV Suburban, would work and also full size vans.

    A minivan is just not large enough to give you that feature and if you really want it a minivan is not for you.
  • cavillercaviller Member Posts: 331
    After safety, 3rd row seat access, comfort and ease of use was one of our top concerns. I found the Odyssey to be as good or better than all other minivans in this regard. With the 2nd row seats moved forward, there is adequate leg room for average adults (interestingly, I am 5'10" also). With the second row back, it is pretty cramped, just like other minivans.

    It's fine for adults on short trips. We've also had our teenage niece and cousin in the back for long trips and they said it was great. I wouldn't want to sit there for a long trip personally, though. As you said, if you have long legs, the shorter seat height will leave your knees higher than one of the captain's chairs.
  • dave84dave84 Member Posts: 75
    Yes, a bit of hyperbole, I admit. However, we have the power doors, you do not. I would think my opinion on their operation and usefulness is more relevant then yours. I like them. They are a very nice feature of the Odyssey EX.
  • cavillercaviller Member Posts: 331
    We chose an LX in part because we didn't like the operation of the power doors. They were too slow for our liking, and the logic of operation was also an annoyance.

    We've had manual doors on vehicles for years, with no safety concerns.

    Yes, injuries can happen. In fact, they can happen on power doors, too (see the NHTSA complaints database and the "other" Odyssey club to see various complaints).

    In the end, if you like em, get 'em. If not, don't. I wouldn't sweat the differences over a perceived difference in safety, though.
  • carleton1carleton1 Member Posts: 560
    I am 5'8" and rode in the 3rd row of my sister's NEW 2001 Odyssey EX the day after they got it to test the comfort. The 3rd row was comfortable for me with the 2nd row seats pushed as far to the rear as they go.
    I took their OdyEX for a test drive when it had 3,000 miles after they had me take them to the airport in it (with their permission to take the longer route home). It drove very nicely at speeds up to 80 MPH. We test drove a 2002 Ody EX-Nav-L Dec 29,2001 and feel the 2002 is even nicer and quieter than 2001 and the 1999 we test drove.
  • 2odyssey2odyssey Member Posts: 1
    We own a 1997 Odyssey LX with 151,000 miles on it and counting. 2nd Odyssey 2002 EX on the way in 3 weeks.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    Dave, enough said, point taken (it's all "sour grapes" to a cheap b___ like my who wouldn't spring for an EX anyway). But I am interested to see what injuries have been reported in other posts as mentioned by caviller.
    Seattle Todd: Your description of the third row seats promted me to go to my garage and climb back there (something I had planned to avoid for the life of the vehicle). Being 6'2", I found it to be as described above: comfortable for short trips, probably more than fine for kids. I wouldn't want to spend a long trip back there, although that would greatly depend upon who else was up front. Sometimes pain is a relative thing.
    I now have 1,100 miles and so far, so perfect. Although I must add that my '99 Grand Caravan had nary a rattle until 14,000 miles. From that point on it seemingly self-immolated. I do not expect that to happen with the Honda.
  • dscow414dscow414 Member Posts: 3
    Just took my 2000 lx ody in for some warranty checks. Advisor asked if I had any maintenace service done ( I assumed their 20k 30k packages etc). I said no and he promptly handed me a generic photo copy maint schedule. Part C says to replace tranny fluid at 30k. Dealer just called and said tranny fluid was very dirty and recommends it be changed. Cost $28.13. Since my service book is in the glove box I cannot check what Honda really recommends. Can anybody help me with what the owners manual really says? Also how hard is it to do myself? For the 28 I am inclined to just get it done. Thx
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    I don't know about the 2001 but the 2002 book says change it at 45k or 36 months whichever comes first. That's the normal schedule, if you operate under severe conditions it says 30k or 24 months. I don't think it's worth skimping on these things and would follow the dealer's recommendation. For $28 you've got to go and buy new fluid, do the work, dispose of the old fluid, clean yourself and your garage floor or driveway up after you spill some. Is it worth it?
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Well, I know this is a Honda forum but I have been exceedingly lazy about redoing my subscriptions so bear with me.

    If you're looking, the Extended Olds GM van has very comfortable 3rd row seats in my opinion, and I'm 6' tall. The back is high enough and it has headrests so you can sleep. Also the front seats are both 8 way power on the GLS, and the leather is nice.

    Plus, you can get auto-leveling in Olds, and I am getting 23.3 mpg around town commuting in Houston traffic. Honda has many advantages, but for comfort and fuel milage, check the Olds.

    DD
  • carleton1carleton1 Member Posts: 560
    Apparently the size of person who would be comfortable riding all day in the 3rd row seat of the Odyssey is between my 5'8" and your 6'2" size.
    I rode for some distance in my sister's 2001 Ody EX in the 3rd row seat while 2nd row seating was pushed all the way to the rear. I feel it would be comfortable for me to ride there as long as in about any seat in any vehicle.
    The Odyssey has twice as much space behind the 3rd seat for luggage, etc. than any other minivan if the rear seats of each minivan is positioned as far to the rear as they will go.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I feel that the GM minivan seats are set way too low. You end up sitting in the "knees-in-the-chest" position, very uncomfy for my body.

    None of the 3rd rows are truly comfy, but I found the Ody's were the least offensive.

    -juice
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    Well, I guess we can all agree that the 3rd row of most minivans are more comfortable than those offered in mid-size (and some full-size) SUV's. Ever tried riding in the 3rd row of a Dodge Durango? You have to be pretty short or at least double jointed to do so! ;)
  • edwinfongedwinfong Member Posts: 25
    The tranny fuild change in the Ody is to open the plug at the bottom of the
    tranny and let it drain. It takes about 3 qts. to refill, there is no filter to replace
    and the tranny holds about 7 qts. I doesn't seem to be a big deal.
    But, make sure the dealer puts in Honda ATF not some other brand. The owner's
    manual for the 2000 Ody specifically says use ONLY Honda ATF. When I had the
    tranny service done at my dealer, I saw them put in Castrol ATF. I complained to
    the service manager telling him about using only Honda ATF. He got a bottle of
    the Honda ATF and it looked and smelled differently from the Castrol. He agreed
    to do the service again draining the 3 qts. and refilling it with the Honda ATF.
    The reason I am so concerned about using Honda ATF is the experience of
    the Chryler/Dodge minivans problems with their trannies. Apparently Chrysler
    specifically used a specially formulated ATF and a lot of owners used generic ATF
    which didn't a special slip characteristic. A lot of Chrysler/Dodge minvans lost
    trannies at about 75K.
  • billg7billg7 Member Posts: 342
    Hard to believe a Honda Dealer would use a non Honda transmission fluid. He might do that for greater profits. I went to my dealers parts counter and he gave me a bottle of the right Honda fluid, which I keep on hand, if I need to add some.

    I guess the only protection I have from that is my Extended Warranty. The dealer that sells you the warranty signs up to cover all the costs on that warranty, in return for his profit. He therefore has some incentive to do things right. I should add that is the way it use to be done anyway. Maybe its not done that way now. I don't have to worry for 7 years anyway.

    The other thing is the Honda dealer would be the least likely of any of the auto repair shops to give you non Honda fluids.

    I use to take my auto to a non dealer and watch the young guys miss grease joints, add the wrong oil, and add a quart too much oil.

    My best solution is to let the dealers do the work as it has been shown that they do it best and then not worry about it. It is too time consuming for me to do it myself, which is the only way you know 100% it is done right.
  • rdietrichrdietrich Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone place an order lately from HandA-accessories.com? I placed an order on January 3rd, received a confirmation number and that's the last that I have heard from them. E-mails are not answered and the toll-free number is not being answered. I have ordered from them before and found them to be prompt and have good prices. Their website is still available and it looks like you can still place orders. I'd appreciate it if anyone has any information concerning this company. I know that Trevor, who works for (or owns) the company has posted messages here.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    I ordered mud flaps and touch-up paint on the 8th and rec'd them on the 15th. If they sent a shipping confirmation, you might want to put a trace on the package (easy to do with UPS).
    Regarding Honda's requirement of special Honda-specific fluids, they have always been unique in that regard. They have required special power steering fluid in the past, and the Odyssey now requires 5W-20 oil. The owner's manual says it's OK to use 5W-30 as long as you switch back to 5W-20 on the next change. I can't imagine a dealer would have 5W-20 in a bulk tank, so it's easy to verify that they have the bottles in the parts department. Verifying that they actually use them on your van is another story.
    Mechanic error, whether it's a dealer or independent is common. Most "mistakes" are more likely to cause problems down the road than immediate failures. My friend's dealer-serviced '95 Accord needed a master cylinder and wheel cylinders as well as a radiator at around 75K miles. I would bet it was poor quality or contaminated fluid that led to those failures rather than normal wear. I have also experienced first hand and read about warped rotors due to overtorqued lug nuts. An impact wrench is never supposed to be used to tighten lug nuts, unless special adaptor sticks are used to control the torque. Very few use the sticks and almost all mechanics use the impact wrenches. Another area is flat repair: every tire manufacturer advises against using plugs, but they are still commonly used vs. an off-the-rim patching system.
    It is very hard to police a mechanic or dealer without coming across as a huge pain.
    Many dealers buy bottled fluids from suppliers that stock name-brand and generic product. Who hasn't seen the Prestone-look-alike jugs of antifreeze sold in gas stations? There's a lot of junk out there, and a lot of dealers who buy on price. I once got a brake job at a Ford dealer who only revealed that the brake kit wasn't Ford (Motorcraft) when I asked. They wanted even more money to use the Ford parts. Don't assume the dealer default is the Honda brand part. Always ask. Same goes for body panels. My friend's Accord has an aftermarket door skin that shimmies like a piece of aluminum foil when the door is slammed shut.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The Durango is guilty of the knees-in-the-chest seating in the 3rd row, the worst I can recall. Plenty of head room, though.

    Minivans win here, easily, perhaps with the exception of the enormous Excursion.

    -juice
  • johnnyrfjohnnyrf Member Posts: 65
    Sorry for the repeat if it is one.....but I am looking for a good center console replacement to that lousy folding shelf in my '99 EX. I am not interested in an entertainment system. I am looking for lots of smart storage. Any recommendations?
  • dscow414dscow414 Member Posts: 3
    Follow up post to 4184. Dealer performed transmission service, recommended b/c fluid was "dirty" and "burned". Asked for a sample and it was in fact dirty and burned(assuming it was my fluid)
    2 questions:
    1. Is this normal at 35k for virtually no towing (100 miles ttl with a lawn tractor on a trailer)and normal driving and there is a Honda tranny cooler installed? Seems severe.
    2. Dealer performed "tranny service". On the work order shows 3qts fluid replaced. Owners manual shows 3.1 for a change and 7.6 ttl. Called the shop and asked for an explanation. Service writer explained that they can only change the 3.1 qts the other 4.5qts are in the torque converter and it cannot be drained w/o removing the tranny. So basically they only change 1/2 the fluid or dilute the dirty and burned with 1/2 new, so the net result is that the fluid is not quite as dirty and burned. I have heard that on some cars they can actually do a power flush of the tranny fluid that changes all of it. Wondering if this what I should have asked for?
  • rduelrduel Member Posts: 39
    To johnnyrf: I purchased a center console from Automotive Enhancement last year. You don't need to take the folding tray out. The console sits nicely alongside the folded tray. The console looks almost OEM. You can see it on the web at: www.autoenhance.com Look under consoles for the Plug "N" Go floor console. Lots of storage plus cupholders.
  • billg7billg7 Member Posts: 342
    After 35,000 miles and no severe towing the transmission fluid should be OK. They use to recommend no fluid change, under non severe conditions, for 100,000 miles.

    I would follow the owners manual however. If you had a power flush and I notice places like Sears( My Sears does offer it anyway) and a number of independents are now doing this, it would have removed all the fluid.

    If the owners manual does not recommend this I would not do it, normally. However if the fluid was really burnt, I would. You can find an independent place that does things like oil changes and brake jobs that will do a power flush for you at a lower cost then the dealer. Maybe even a place like Jiffy lube will. I am guessing it will cost you about $50.
  • hoss02hoss02 Member Posts: 19
    I had this done for $80 at a fast lube and now believe it is the only way to go. They hook up a machine to the transmission cooling lines, add a flushing agent that works with old fluid, which is then removed and held in a reservoir in the machine. Then fresh fluid is added. This allows all fluid to be evacuated. The company offers a lifetime warranty on your transmission as long as you change using their system and additive at prescribed intervals (20,000 miles, I think). The only issues with Honda might be the need to use Honda fluid (you could supply it and they will probably adjust the price of the service) and the use of the additive might not be advised (you could ask the fast lube to "hold the additive" although that might nullify their warranty). The web site is www.megapowerinc.com if you want to learn about the machine, additives and warranty.
    The dealer charged $28 for the 3 quart swap. Figuring $4/qt. or $12 for material, leaves $16 for labor (roughly 1/4 or 1/5 of an hour labor rate, depending on location). This is certainly cheap enough, but is really not doing justice to the transmission. It'll still last a long time, certainly past the lame 36K powertrain warranty, which is all Honda really aims to do.
    Most dealers don't invest in flushing equipment because it is expensive, and they think their customers will feel like they're getting hosed if the transmission service is around $100. They can make more profit doing it half-assed (and half-fast) for $28, and give the customer the illusion of being very fair-priced. My other car is a Subaru, and the dealer wanted $50 for the standard "drain & refill", something I could do in my driveway in 15 minutes for under $10 in fluid.
    When I saw what the flushed-out fluid looked like in the clear chamber of the machine, I knew that the flush is by far the best way to do it.
  • johnnyrfjohnnyrf Member Posts: 65
    I just ordered one for $39.95 and should have it n 5-10 business days. Similar ones are available on the web by others for $20 more.
    Thanks again.
  • billg7billg7 Member Posts: 342
    I think the reason they are offering you a lifetime warranty on the transmission is that they are making more money off you from the Complete Flush. I am not sure it is worth it. I would have to compare the dealers normal transmission service cost to that cost.

    I know as long as the fluid is not burnt it should be OK, even the way the dealer does it. If the dealer has the Complete Flush I think I may get it every other time, per the owners manual.

    If you don't use Honda fluid I would think that would void the Honda warranty and then you would need the other warranty.
  • folkmusefolkmuse Member Posts: 11
    I suddenly need to replace my long owned 4WD Ford Aerostar. The only AWD van on the market
    appears to be a Chrysler now. I liked the Odyssey test drive on dry roads, and I like the appointments
    inside. However, I am concerned about the performance of this FWD van on snowy, and sometimes
    icy, roads. I realize it won't match the Aerostar in that regard - but I am interested to hear the
    experiences of others.

    Thanks from frozen NH!
  • stangeljstangelj Member Posts: 74
    I live in Calgary Alberta and we frequently get very icy slick snow-packed roads through the winter. We're just starting to thaw from the storm we had last Friday where we've stayed close to -20 degrees celcius. Have had our 99 EX for over 3 years now and it's been great in all winter conditions. My only complaint is the traction control is next to useless. It allows too much spin before kicking in. It only activates the brakes when it detects spin, but not engine speed, so it's not very sophisticated. That aside though, we've never been even close to getting stuck. 4WD only helps getting going of course, not stopping. I don't know if your Aerostar has anti-lock brakes, but if not, then you'll notice a huge edge with them in the Odyssey or any other such equipped vehicle in slippery conditions.
  • dkrabdkrab Member Posts: 77
    If they said the trans fluid was burnt, then only changed roughly half of it, then you should be able to pull the trans dipstick and find fluid that still smells burnt. If the fluid on the dipstick looks and smells fine, they weren't being honest with you, either about it being burnt in the first place or about replacing only half of it (I'd be willing to bet on which).

    A full flush is the best, but if the fluid isn't particularly dirty and it doesn't smell burnt, then the drain and refill of 3 or so quarts is sufficient for 30K service.
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    Has anyone had their interior A/C filter changed during the 30K service? The replacement instructions on HandA Accessories web site state that the glove box needs to be removed, the glove box cross-brace cut out, and the glove box frame be removed to gain access to the filter. Surely there must be a better way! Has anybody had this done at the dealer, and if so, did you get any rattles or noise coming from the glove box area afterward? This really seems like a poor design to me if you have to remove the glove box and cut up the inards of the dash every 30K miles. Of course you only have to cut it once, but this still seems excessive. Oh, I have a blue 2000 LX. Thanks for your help.
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