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2013 and earlier Nissan Altima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • chingachinga Member Posts: 5
    Maxie, does your car have Bluetooth. I configured your listed options and msrp was $280 less than you stated. Bluetooth got it to the same msrp. I am looking for a very similar car. Thanks for the info.
  • maxie_maverickmaxie_maverick Member Posts: 8
    Yes, the Nissan Altima I bought has bluetooth. I forgot to mention that in my post sorry. I wanted the rear view monitor as well... but the fool wanted $22500 for it (LOL!!!).....

    Maxie
  • jortzjortz Member Posts: 1
    hi everyone.

    i am trying to negotiate with a dealer in central jersey for a 2010 altima with conv/conv+/sl package and premium audio.

    we started at 26,500k (otd) for a 2011 with those options in black. i got him down to 26,200 after a few calls/emails.

    after realizing id rather have ocean gray, 2011, i asked for his inventory and he only has 2010s left with those options/color.

    NOW, i want a really good deal on the 2010. this is my first new car purchase and id be happy with a 2010. he offered 25,500. i think i can get better (25,000 or lower otd) but he's the only one who has the car i want right now. so he has some leverage.

    any advice would be appreciated. do you think 25k out the door with those options is a descent price?????

    thank you!!

    john
  • supraturbo320supraturbo320 Member Posts: 34
    2011 NISSAN ALTIMA COUPE S CVT
    36 month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00164 base money factor

    Anyone know the numbers for 24 mos, 15K?

    Is there any difference on numbers between the 2.5 and 3.5 V6 models?
    Thanks!
  • emw23emw23 Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    I just helped my parents purchase a 2011 Altima 2.5S sedan with splash guards and floor mats as the only additional options. I always come to these forums before purchasing to get an idea of what people are paying so I thought I would post the deal we got to help others out. We are in the Cleveland/Akron OH area.

    MSRP: $23,140
    Our Price: $17,490 (includes $1,750 in incentives)
    Doc Fees: $250
    Sales tax of 6.25%: $1218.13
    Title and License: $33.50

    Total out the door price: $18,991.63
  • maxie_maverickmaxie_maverick Member Posts: 8
    That is a good deal... Holy cow!!! But looking at your price, I feel like I made out real good for a similar Altima with Conv+Conv Plus+Al Kick Plts+Bluetooth. I was thinking that I could have easily gotten mine for $20,500... Dang!!! I think I should have negotiated more :)

    Maxie
  • carlurkercarlurker Member Posts: 5
    Hello all,

    After a week of emails with dealers and then buying my new car yesterday, I wanted to update my previous post. I ended up with a 2011 Altima S sedan with the convenience, convenience plus, premium audio, splash guards, and floor mats. Here were my prices:

    MSRP $26,680

    car quote: $20,959 (including the rebate and the $599 doc fee common in the area)

    TTL: $1,64 (7% sales tax)

    OTD price: $22,601

    Overall, I am satisfied with the price I paid, even if I could have gotten it even lower. As it was, I was rather exhausted with the process and I was happy for it to be over. When I arrived at the dealership yesterday morning with my pre-negotiated price, I was informed that the car we had agreed upon was just sold. I told them if they could get a new one in that same day then I would buy it at our agreed price, otherwise I was not going to be strung along any more. It took a while but they found my color and options choice at another area dealer and got the car brought over within a few hours. So, after we had a leisurely lunch, we returned to a packed showroom and waited a while still for the car to be prepped and also to close the finances (they wanted us to complete financing before the car arrived, but I said I would wait until I saw the car). We finally left with our car five hours after we first arrived at the dealership -- but at least none of that time was spent haggling price.

    Good luck to all.
  • carlurkercarlurker Member Posts: 5
    Oops! I meant to say that my TTL was $1,642 (not $1,64) in the post above.

    I did not see an option to edit my post. Is this an option on this forum?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,537
    You have 30 minutes to edit, then that option goes away...

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  • emw23emw23 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Maxie. Sounds like you got a good deal, too. Don't sweat it!

    This is one of those deals that just worked out. Less than 36 hours from when I sent the first email to nine local dealers to when we drove off the lot with the car. Very quick and painless! It was a good thing too as this was to replace a 2010 Altima that was totalled in a car accident. So, we didn't have as much flexibility to wait around on a good deal as I have had in the past.
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    I'm looking to buy a 2011 Altima 2.5S with Convenience, Convenience Plus, and Premium Audio packages. I've gotten preliminary quotes from 4 dealers in the Las Vegas area.

    My question to you all (who negotiate through email first before going to showroom), do you just receive total quotes ($23,000 for example) or do you ask for the monthly payments and APR that they would give you as well (before you go to the dealership)?

    Thank you. I hope my question makes sense.
  • carlurkercarlurker Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    I negotiate my price as if I will be paying cash for the car -- even if I plan to finance. Then, before I ever go to the lot, I have financing arranged from an outside bank. This way, I can focus only on the best out-the-door price in my negotiations with the dealer, and not muddy the waters with financing details. I then use a spreadsheet at home to combine the dealership's OTD price with my financing options (rates, length of loan, monthly costs, rebates, etc.). Also, I don't even know if a dealership can quote you actual rates, as everything would be subject to a credit check; sure, they may try, but then when you go in, you may be told that the rates are now different after a credit check.

    I much prefer this approach, as I can take my time to study and compare my financing options at home at my leisure, and not while I am sitting with a finance person at a dealership. Also, if you prearrange financing, you will arrive at the dealership knowing the maximum you will pay for a loan (rate, etc.), and you can then let them compete to beat your financing. I think they will try harder at this if you have financing prearranged. For example, this past Saturday when I bought my Altima, I arrived at the dealership with a 2.9x% 5-year loan, but the dealership actually beat it with a 2.84% 5-year loan. I don't think they would have tried as hard if I did not already have a good rate in hand.

    Finally, do keep in mind that sometimes obtaining the best rate can mean you do not get a rebate. For example, I received a $1750 rebate that could not be combined with 0% dealer financing. Since I have a low fixed rate and I plan to pay off the loan in less than 3 years, the rebate was better for me than a 0% loan. But I would have been hard pressed to decide this at the dealership if I had not first run the numbers at home.

    Good luck!
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    Carlurker, thanks for that advice.

    So, I was all set to purchase the 2011 2.5S with both convenience packages and Premium audio. MSRP is $26,680 and they had offered me $399/month with 0% APR for 60 months, $2500 down (not sure on exact total price off top of my head).

    I want black exterior and charcoal interior. They told me last night that they have a black with frost interior or a "demo" (?) one with "less than 200 miles" on it ("manager drives it to and from work"). I said I'd rather take new one with frost interior. Today, the guy emails me and says the new one was sold last night (was at different lot) and the reason they told me that they had it was because it showed available in the system.

    My question: if I go for the "used" one, how much should I ask to get dropped off the price? ($1k, $2k, etc.) They haven't even offere to drop price which baffles me because this is no loner a new car with "less than 2000 miles" on it. What would be fair for both parties?

    Thank you.
  • hondamom6hondamom6 Member Posts: 19
    $399 with 0% financing for 60 months plus $2500 down is basically the sticker price of the car. You said the MSRP was $26680. With that financing, you would be paying $26440 for the car. The 0% financing makes it sound like you're getting a good deal when really, you're paying full price.

    That's why I NEVER use the dealer financing. I always go to the dealership with my financing ready - we use our credit union. Using their financing is just one way they stick it to you. When you sign the paperwork, you also have to be VERY careful that there are no blank spaces because some dealerships who have loose morals (which I feel is most of them) will write numbers in after you have signed the papers.

    If I were going to settle for the "used" car, I would really low ball the offer. Maybe offer them $17,500 or $18,000 for the car and see what they say.
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2011
    Thanks for the reply Hondamom6.

    They didn't want to drop the price at all, which I don't understand. Can anyone make sense of this? It actually has 1205 miles on it. How can you sell a car that's been used for at least 4 weeks (they say he only uses it to and from work) as a brand new car? They have leverage because it's supposedly only one in are with specs that I want.

    They are offering at $24,002.51 (before taxes, fees, etc.). MSRP on car is $26,660. Also, offering $500 cash back.
  • nitikanitika Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    can U please let me know the name of the dealership.. I ve been wandering at the dealers for two days but no one s giving me that price :(..

    thnks
  • maxie_maverickmaxie_maverick Member Posts: 8
    Hi Nitika

    I bought the car from Conicelli Nissan in Conshocken PA. Do not offer them anything more than $20,500 OTD for this car. Read through the discussion and you will know how to negotiate... Even though $21,000 is a good price I have a feeling I paid them $500 more than what I should have...

    Good luck and feel free to ask questions
    Maxie
  • escapev4escapev4 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I am looking to purchase a 2011 Altima 2.5S Special Edition package. I don't think it has the convenience package or convenience plus (it doesn't have lit vanity mirrors). The special edition package adds the fog lights, auto on/off headlights, leather wrapped steering wheel and rear spoiler from what I can tell. Out the door price (including ttl) is 21725. is that a good deal? the dealership i'm looking at is one of those "one simple price"/no haggle, so should I look at another dealership? i'm in San Antonio, TX, so if anyone has experience with a better dealership down here it'd be nice to hear from you as well.

    Thanks!
  • alamocityalamocity Member Posts: 680
    From the sound of things it looks like they are offering somewhere around $20250.00 before TT&L and according to truecar the great price is $20272.00 for this area for that model equipped as you described. Gunn is a good dealership to work with as they are upfront with their prices, may get a better deal at say Ancira however it may take some haggling to do so.
  • escapev4escapev4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply alamocity. I do have a trade in, so do you guys suggest I look for financing first through my bank, which usually gives me the best rates, or should I just go to the dealership and let their finance folks do their work? Opinions?

    Thanks!
  • alamocityalamocity Member Posts: 680
    I would recommend obtaining financing through a credit union if you can before going to the finance office at the dealership, that way you can see what they can offer and decide which is better suited for your needs.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    edited March 2011
    They are offering at $24,002.51 (before taxes, fees, etc.). MSRP on car is $26,660. Also, offering $500 cash back.

    24K is high regardless if it's a demo or not. If you're looking to purchase a demo for a couple thousands less than a new car, it's not going to happen. The price on a demo is usually very close to a new car. Why?

    There're people who think they can save a bundle on a demo so, they don't care to look at the new car. They're the same as those who think they can save a bundle by buying a 1 or 2 years old Camry, Accord or Altima.

    However, I hope that you don't offer them 17K on a almost 27K car. You cannot even get that on a used 2010. Read through some of the posts here, it seems they managed to get really good deals. I don't know how they can do it. Personally, I think 21-22K + TTL is good. However, you might pay less or more base on your market, tax and registration.
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice gooddeal2.

    I just realized I had been calculating the price on truecar with the $1250 rebate they're currently offering where if I do the 0% at 60 months through them, they don't include the rebate. Calculated correctly, truecar says that a "great price" in my area is anything less than $24,187. Apparently dealer cost is $23,914.

    These figures make me think I'm getting a good price (if it was brand new and not a demo with 1205 miles).

    Also, the only reason I'm looking at the demo is that it's the only car in the area that matches what I want (color,trim,etc.). If they had it brand new (not demo), I would've already purchased it at what they're offering me.

    Gooddeal2, what would you accept considering it's a demo with 1205 miles? $500 less, $1000 less?

    Thank you all!
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    Calculated correctly, truecar says that a "great price" in my area is anything less than $24,187. Apparently dealer cost is $23,914.

    It seems your area is not as competitive as here in the NE. Base on truecar and you want to take 0% instead of the $1250 cash, I would say 22.5k + TTL for that demo or 23.5K + TTL for a new car.

    You should try to get some numbers from out of state dealers. You might be able to get a better deal.
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    They don't want to budge at all. They told me "demo or no demo, it's a good deal either way", when i told him that if it wasnt a demo i would've already purchased it. I've asked other local dealers: one told me what that dealer is offering me is an "excellent deal", another basically told me he can't even match their offer.

    I'm dumbfounded.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    edited March 2011
    Are you in TX, around Dallas?
  • bravo340bravo340 Member Posts: 6
    No. Las Vegas, NV.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    ...may be you should try LA. It should be very cheap there. It might be even cheaper than here in the NE. I would take a bus or train to LA if I can get it for about 22-22.5K. 1.5-2K cheaper than your demo.
  • usherfuusherfu Member Posts: 7
    edited March 2011
    Hi,

    I got following offer for a Nissan Altima 2.5S with special edition + floor mats+ splash guards. MSRP is 24060, price is 19256, OTD is about 20629. Is this a good price?

    Thanks
  • leeevansleeevans Member Posts: 2
    I fielded several email offers and the lowest was $18,399 . . . OTD $20K. Several others came back and matched the offer. Can I do better, or should I jump on it tomorrow before the rebate is up? Thanks!!
  • leeevansleeevans Member Posts: 2
    Floor mats and splash guards too. . .
  • dbphxdbphx Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2011
    trading in 2005 nissan maxima, SE, with leather + most option (good condition - 81K) miles. They are giving me $9K credit (with $4k cashback), and a 39 month (15k/year) term, with monthly payment of $220/month + 2 years free oil changes. car would be altima with leather, bose, power seats, xm, blue tooth, etc. does this sound like a good deal? Phoenix, AZ - and their 'special' ends 3/31...
  • spartanz4everspartanz4ever Member Posts: 4
    This site is great. I have been using it along with true car in my negotiations on a 2011 2.5SL Altima, however, I have a question for you all. I understand the true car prices are based on the 1250 dollar incentive currently offered by Nissan but True Car also notes the the dealer's cost on the website (I assume this is the dealer invoice and not the factory invoice they flash in front of you later in the negotiations) as $23,305. I offered $22,800 to start the bidding on a 2.5 S with the conv, conv +, and the SL package on a 4 cylinder. I am hearing that there is no way they can go that low, though they were fine with $22,800 as an outright purchase price. Any thoughts on this? The way I look at it is if they are OK with this as a purchase price which would account for the $1250 incentive cash then at a maximum the cost for a lease should be $22,800 + $1250 = $24050. Has anyone gotten a better cost on a lease for the same vehicle? True Car indicates their cost is $23,305...in determining their profit on the car would you add the Doc fee to their cost or would you consider that part of the $23,305? In other words, if I were to offer $24,000 plus TTL would they make $695?

    Thanks for your help and I will keep you all posted on what I hear from the dealer(s).
  • rick92564rick92564 Member Posts: 2
    couple of pointers.You are correct in that a purchase may have a rebate(the altima currently is 1250) and the lease may not have any lease cash so the actual price for a lease would be 1250 higher but that is often made up with money factors and residual costs. Nissan through the end of march had programs that some dealers chose to paticipate in and some chose not to. There was nissan money for the dealers if the dealer could sell enough. That is why for example at our dealer ship we had up to six thousand off sticker for altimas in march and some dealers were 2000 more only 4000 off.if a dealer didnt think they were going to sell enough to be able to get the money from nissan they were not going to be able to give 6000 off. Programs are updated monthly and for now you just missed the boat.Because of high demand of fuel effecient cars and the shortage of electronic parts(FOR ALL CARS)rebates and incentives have just been cut across the board cars made soley in japan are selling at sticker and above in some cases.
  • jsalimaojsalimao Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,
    New to the forums. Perhaps I should have checked this forum out before I purchased my Altima yesterday as I probably could have gotten a better deal.

    Here was my deal:
    2011 Altima SL + conv package
    39month Lease
    Invoice: $23,155
    Purchase: $22,679 (Was supposed to be $21,790...more on that later)
    Down payment: $0
    Trade In: $265 (This was a lease that was ending the 5th...no real equity)
    Payment: $279/month w/ $0 down and 12K miles

    Overall how bad is this deal? I was happy I got anything for my lease trade in because it was in not so good shape and I'm sure I would have gotten pinged for something if I handed back to Toyota.

    My second question is related to how I was ripped off in the finance office. This is my fault that I didn't ask enough questions but regardless they acted very shady.

    At the table the salesman agreed to $1100 under invoice - $265 = $21,790 and said my payments would be $279/month with tax. First he just showed me the just the monthly payment and I told him I wanted to talk price not monthly payment. So this is when we came up with the $21,790 price and the payments didn't change...I should have been suspicious then.

    When I got into the Finance office the price showed $22,760. I said that doesn't seem right and the finance manager assured me that this wasn't the actually price and that he had to fudge the numbers for the paperwork. Well I was looking over my paperwork and my lease payment was indeed calculated off this number. This would have been about a $20 difference/month.

    I am extremely upset and put a call into the sales manager and the finance manager. Any advice on how to handle this?

    I really appreciate any input as we all know what it feels like to get ripped...and its not a good feeling.

    Thanks guys,
    Joe
  • junjjunj Member Posts: 3
    MSRP 27K, got a sell price around 22-23K. Is this a good deal?
  • spartanz4everspartanz4ever Member Posts: 4
    Joe,

    I am currently in negotiations on a 2011 2.5SL similar to yours. I have been pretty strong, I think :), on negotiations and I above your price for the negotiated fee but pretty close on the monthly payment. I am now hesitant as to what is going on with your deal. If I run your numbers of the purchase and MSRP along with 39 mos, .00103 MF, and 57% residual, I assumed 10% tax, I get a monthly payment of 247/mo. But you are saying they are charging you $279/mo...not sure what is going on. Is your MF and/or residual different than I assumed above?
  • spartanz4everspartanz4ever Member Posts: 4
    Anyone have experience in purchasing warranty extension service of 3 months to close the gap on a 39 mo lease for Nissan Altima. I was quoted $399 from the dealer and curious if this is what you are all seeing as well.
  • dbphxdbphx Member Posts: 3
    ok, well, no one told me about tax, warranty and all that crap. $270/month, with dents and all maintenance covered, no deductible. i have no clue what a mf is. i have no intent of keeping this car. i am not even sure what model it is. 2.5 s or s-something. 4 doors, automatic, convenience package, leather and a bunch of other stuff. i got a 39 month/45K warranty. it is possible. sorry i am clueless. i had to car shop.
  • jagerbombsjagerbombs Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    Hello all,

    I was looking for the exact same car as "carlurker" purchased except with the addition of the SL package and no alloy wheels. Based on his results, do you think that I would be able to get a 2011 Altima SL w/ Conv, Conv plus, prem audio, splash guards, mats for around $24,00 OTD?

    Using USAA Car buying services put the "Target Price" at $25,262 before any TTL and fees. I currently live in Texas and willing to travel anywhere from the Dallas area to the Austin area to the San Antonio area to get the best deal! Anyone have suggestions of dealerships or a suggested OTD for a great deal? Thanks!
  • emsmallishemsmallish Member Posts: 1
    Hi all -

    I am attempting to negotiate my very first car deal on my own and there is a lot I don't know. I used True Car to negotiate a price on a 2011 Nissan Altima 4dr Sedan I4 CVT 2.5 S with the convenience pkg, convenience plus pkg and the premium audio pkg. The price that True Car came up with was $23,109, which is apparently $1,750 below invoice. My question is, can that price be translated to a lease option and if so, how? And what would that lease monthly payment be? How in the heck do I negotiate a lease? I know it can be done, but I don't know how.

    Thanks for any help you can give.
  • dagemdagem Member Posts: 13
    Start here, with Edmonds "Confessions"

    Sales people still use these tricks and techniques, at least they did with me at the local Chevy dealer.

    I personally would start @ $22,500 and I would mention during negotiations that "if the sales manager isn't crying when we get done, I'm not getting the deal I want" then smile. They start with the margins on their side, you start lower than you will accept and hopefully you can meet right around your "true price".

    Negotiate the final cost of the vehicle, NOT the payments or financing, you will have to keep telling them that over and over again. They will continue to mention how low your payments will be, and ask how that sounds.

    If possible get financing done with your bank or credit union, that way you can get the discounts, instead of the low financing. Use Cars.com's calculator to figure out which way will work better for you.

    The best advice I can give is be ready to walk away, when family/friends want me to go car shopping with them I always tell, "If you aren't willing to walk, I'm not going"

    Don't worry if they print out an "invoice" it's mostly smoke and mirrors, and is usually not the dealers actual cost. Be ready for them to hold onto that price as long as they can, some dealers may not drop lower, and it helps if there is more than Nissan (or who ever) dealer in your area. Mention you are going to check them out before you decide.

    Don't buy that day, get their best deal AND THINK on it, they will tell you often that this deal is "today and today only", and I always say, "oh ok, then I'm wasting your time, this is a big decision and I won't make it lightly" or something to that effect. Don't expect them to let you walk with anything in writing, that they write down, but you can take a notebook and make notes for yourself.

    Good luck, sorry for the long winded answer. I hope it made sense and helped. :) I could go on for hours, but I wont.
  • k_pfeifk_pfeif Member Posts: 1
    I'm going crazy with the analysis.

    Our 1997 Maxima has about had it. The engine is still great, but things are FINALLY starting to fail on it...and it doesn't look that great. It's time for a new car, then. Or at least a new one to us.

    Here's all of the inputs into the decision...

    1. As you may have guessed, we drive cars until they are dead dead dead. We'll want this one to last 10 years. I have a GREAT mechanic, too.

    2. Certainly the cost is very importanat. We finally got done paying off our 2006 Honda Odyssey, our first new car. We will have had zero car payments for 2 months before we get into this one.

    3. Our credit scores are good - above 800.

    4. Gas mileage is important, so we'd like a 4 cylinder.

    5. Leather in important, due to the kids. I also think it tends to hold up much better over a long time vs fabric, and, since we plan on keeping the car for a long time, that may be important.

    6. Audio. Hmm. Yeah, I really like the Bose system in the Maxima, but the Bose option adds another $1,000 to the price of a new car. Also, once you install a Bose, you're locked into it - it's totally proprietry. I can see getting the "stock" audio system and someday replacing it with a double DIN audio system with backup camera, etc.

    We're in SE Wisconsin, and TrueCar says the "Best Price" around is $25,077 (not including the rebate) for an SL with stock audio, add on Bluetooth, and mats.

    Certified Used 2009 SL's with around 30,000 miles are around...they're going for around $20,200 "Certified Dealer Retail", $19,112 Retail, $17,101 Private Party, and $15,037 Tradein via Edmunds pricing.

    Nissan has the new car 0 percent financing, but they also have low interest on their certified used cars.... 1.99% for 48 months, 2.49% for 60. Buying a loaded used SL seems great until you compare it to the cost of NEW Altima S with Convenience - $22,679, according to TrueCar. Cloth seats, but still a nice little car...but without the gadgets we've grown accustomed to in our Maxima (in Wisconsin, the heated leather seats are AWESOME).

    Where is my question? Let's start with this - what do you think regarding new "S" vs used SL?

    Next, I don't understand pricing the used SL. Edmunds indicates the Dealer Certified, but I'm not paying that. Where do I start negotiating? The way I see it, they're getting the car for trade in value, putting maybe $500-$750 in it for the reconditioning and the silly limited warranty, and they want to make some profit in there. Should I start at trade-in value + $1,000 and go up, with a realistic deal price of somewhere between the private party price and dealer retail?

    Ah!

    I don't think we can swing the new SL...that's a lot of coin.
  • puterplayputerplay Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for an Altima 2.5S sedan with Convenience, Convenience Plus, SL, mudflaps, bluetooth,moonroof reflector, floor mats, trunk org/first aid.

    I was quoted 950.00 down 349.00 month including tax...No other charges. Considering the some are saying do to hold ups up in Japan ,Nissan is not offering as good a special as in the past few months...is the above a decent deal?

    I was told residual is 58% and money factor is .00109 Does anyone know if this is correct?
    Thanks ahead of time.
  • reddy5reddy5 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I bought Nissam Altima 2.5S without adding any options for $19800+Taxes and fees. Made down payment of $2000 and 0% APR for Five years. Please let me know if I made the right choice as far as the price is concerned.
  • ninja15ninja15 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I am a first time buyer looking for Nissan Altima 2.5 s with Convenience, Convenience plus and 2.5 SL packages.
    The price I am getting is $23,500 + Tax & TTL. It includes floor mats & splash guards.
    Can someone tell me if this is a good price or not?
  • jagerbombsjagerbombs Member Posts: 2
    I got a quote for the exact same vehicle PLUS the Premium Audio package for $23,500 +TTL (this included a $1250 rebate though)
    I never did buy the vehicle, just what I got quoted at.
  • cheru1cheru1 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at 2008 Altima SL (Certified) with Bose audio and Blue tooth with 49000 miles on it.
    The dealer is quoting $17000 + TTL.

    Is this a good price?

    Please let me know.

    Regards

    Cheru
  • skyfan1skyfan1 Member Posts: 37
    It is my un-expert opinion that it seems a little too high, however hope you get other answers.
  • cheru1cheru1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks skyfan1 for the reply.

    What would be a good price for this car?

    Regards

    Cheru
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