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Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mine did the exact same thing.. Idle Air COntrol Valve is choked wth soot and should be replaced....happens all the time with these engines.
  • I know ive brought this up before many times. . .but just had to ask again.
    Has anyone experienced the steering rack loosening up? If so, have you been able to have it tightened or replaced??? Ive had many dealers drive it and say its not a safety issue and FORD allows for marginal flaws and it would be tough to find the exact cause.
    I cant take it much more and need to know if theres anyway to have to rack tightened or replaced.
    Thanks :mad:
  • I have a 2002 Exp 4.6 liter it has a miss when you give it some gas it seems to be ok when you go at a speed but give it gas an it misses can it be the coil no check engine lite on I put a new fuel filter on but does the same I have42000 miles on it any ideas on this
  • First off,
    I'm on my third battery and third alternator. Now, about a week ago, the radio just quit. Turned off the vehicle, came out about forty-five minutes later, and it was fine. Today, I pulled into a Mickey D's and parked on a decline. It idled for a couple minutes then died (1/4 tank of gas) It wouldn't start right and it sounded like a fuel issue. Put 2 gallons in it and it starts. COOL! BUT!!!! It will not shift out of park, the windows do not work, the radio will not come on, and the front blower is in overdrive to the defroster, but I can't shut the system off. I have a service engine soon light, a suspension light and no battery problems. Good voltage, and cranks like a champ. All the fuses are good. Hard to tell about the relays, cause it's in a parking lot. I cannot afford a dealership diagnostics after the tow. Right now I can;t even get it out of the McDonalds parking lot. HEEEEELLLLPPP!
  • well recently I took my 99 expedition in to the dealership for a tune up. plus the check engine soon light was on. anyway they discovered that 3 of my coils where bad. One of these coils run about 172.00 dollars according to my mechanic. he insists that i change all 8 now, cause the rest of the coils are in bad condition to. what should i do? just change the 3 or change all and burn my pocket?????????
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,621
    how about alignment, worn shocks, or different tires?
    when replaced the original goodyears on my explorer with michelins, i gain a lot of quiet, but lost road feel and some handling.
  • The coils should only be $28-$57 each depending which one you have. They are as simple to replace as changing your lighbulb in your bathroom. Anybody with an IQ higher than a hammer can do the repair.
  • You might have a leak through the front windshield seal (driver's side)allowing water to penetrate the GEM module.
  • funkyone, I have an '04 and occasionally the drivers seat will not move up or back. They replaced something and it still does it occasionally. Sometimes, I can pull it forward or back very hard , while clicking the switch, and it will catch. Do not know why. Try it, it might work.
  • I checked the fuse and it appears to be fine. I even moved it to the fuse hole for the other seat (passenger). Obviously the fuse is fine. The mirrors don't work, etc. So it is clear to me to be a short somewhere. Just not in the fuse assembly. Really quite friggen odd.
  • did you ever find out what the check charging system message was.... mine does it and its soooo annoying....
    I want to have it fixed but would like to get a general idea on what the cost might run me to fix it... if you have fixed yours can you fill me in on what caused yours to show you the error and about how much it ran to fix...!
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Hi! I just purchased a used 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition and am really enjoying it. It only has 34000 miles and is still under warranty. It drives like a dream and is everything my family needs.

    I bought the car from a used car dealer, but the previous owner had installed these 22" chrome rims and tires on it. To make the deal, the dealer purchased a new set of 17" alloy rims and tires that had been on a new Ford F-150 (and hardly ever driven) and put them on my SUV.

    The "Tire pressure monitoring system fault" warning is displaying (the dealer noted it had been displaying with the 22" rims as well). After reviewing the owner's guide, I figure it is because although these wheels match OEM Eddie Bauer rims, they must not have been equipped with the tire pressure monitors on the wheels.

    Does anyone know if those monitors can be added after the fact? Obviously, the car is equipped with the monitoring system, so if the transmitters were in the tires, it should work. I guess I was curious what this would run me if I went to a Ford dealer and asked to have it done. I'll call tomorrow, but I imagine it will be some $$$.

    Thanks for your help!
  • i am having the same trouble with my EB expedition. My windows stop working and I cant shift out of park. I never had a problem like this with my navigator. Someone PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!
  • nppubsnppubs Posts: 3
    Well, my Expy is on the way to the dealer tomorrow. We did some looking, searching, etc and found that even if you could find a part in the yard, or bought it new, it would have to be programed. No where in the book you get at the autoparts store does it talk about that. Either way, it sounds like in my position, it's going to be 800 bucks. And a four day wait because- guess what??? they are backed up in the electrical department. Since I hit 90K This thing has been wierder and wierder. And I am not happy about how much this is going to cost. Hope you have better luck!
  • nppubsnppubs Posts: 3
    On the getting out of park thing- There is a way, but if you don't have tail lights, turn signals, etc, it will only help you get the vehicle home if you are stranded like I was in a McDonalds parking lot... Turn the key just barely on and rock it back and forth a little bit as you try to slip. And I mean just barely. When you get it into neutral, it will start. Run like crap, but start.
  • smtrasmtra Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, but have not had it checked out yet. I hope that they find a resolution. Can you keep me up to date.
    Good Luck!
    Travis
  • I have a '98 expedition EB with 105k miles on it. A few months ago i started to notice that when i would brake, depressing the pedal about 3/4 down the pedal would shake and vibrate. checked the brake fluid and i noticed it needed some so i filled it up and still had that problem. i then noticed my abs light would come on every now and then. i used to turn the car off, pump the pedal a few times and that was it, light was gone. then after a while the abs light would always come on as soon as i started moving the car. i took it to a brake specialist and was told my front driver side caliper was bad and i needed to replace my abs sensor located on the rear diff. they wanted to charge me $600.00 for repairs. i just laughed and demanded my car back. i called up my home mechanic who changed the sensor and checked out my brakes but determined my caliper was fine. had front brake pads replaced and rotors turned but still have the same problem. pedal vibrates when depressed about 3/4 down. no more abs light though. what could this be?? has anybody had similar problems?? thanks for your help!!
  • nbxnbx Posts: 28
    After several trips to the local Ford dealer due to my front hubs making all sorts of grinding noises in 2w high, it was discovered that acid from the battery was eating holes in the vacuum lines mounted on the firewall right next to the battery. The noises were worse in 2wd high as the vacuum dropped going up grades. The 4X4 system apparently relies on engine vacuum through these lines to keep the front hubs disengaged while in 2w high. Due to loss of vacuum, the hubs were trying to engage or something and thus all the clanging, grinding. On one occasion the entire 4wd was inoperative. Also appears that the new heat shield around the battery sags into and soaks the vacuum lines with acid. Not sure? Poor design to use such flimsy vacuum line material and in close proximity to the battery.

    Solution. Do a vacuum loss test, replace, patch the vacuum lines as needed and keep the battery clean as possible. Replace the battery if necessary. Also added a plastic tie at home on my own to keep the vacuum lines from direct contact with battery or battery shield. Also periodic careful washing of vacuum lines with garden hose has helped.

    As additional information, the shop foreman indicated the system has a built-in guard to keep the 4X4 from self destructing when the above vacuum is lost and all the grinding noises start.
  • Ya know something. . . ive had problems with a little looseness and play in the steering rack and the groaning/grinding from the front wheels has been getting worse and just about all the time. Ive brought my Expy into the dealer and they couldnt even comment on the groaning/grinding, said it was normal. . .NOT. . . funny to have this post come along cause today when i started to hear the groan/grinding, i put it in 4AWD. . . NO NOISE. . .NOTHING. . was perfect and silent. . .also I have always said that the steering rack feels noticeably tighter when in any of the 4wds. I would assume that the "variable speed assist steering" is run on vaccuum also and may be tied in with all this somehow. So NOW i can take it to the dealer and ask them to check the vaccuum lines associated with this. AMAZING how you came across this finding. . .THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Does your front end clank when you put it in 4AWD while the vehicle is moving? If so, there is a TSB for that which might also address the groaning/grinding. I had it done to my 03.
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    It doesnt clank when i put it into 4awd. . . but does SOMETIMES if i put it into 4hi or 4lo. . . aweful sound like grinding gears. . . All this though usually only happens when the truck is warmed up, especially the groaning/grinding sound, so that totally tells me its vaccuum related. ALSO with all of this vacuum issue. . . my tranny clunk hard into 2nd gear on the down shift at 20mph on decelerration EVERYTIME. . . Once again i wonder if this is all related to a vacuum problem seeing everything started to happen all at the same time, the loose steering at higher speeds, the tranny clunk and the groaning/grinding in the front end. Definately gonna bring it in with these posts to give the mechanic a heads up on what im talking about.
    Thanks again for all these posts. . . makes life so much easier when explaining things to dealers. I dont feel like im going crazy anymore. . .love my truck and glad to hear its not a lemon. . . lol
  • nbxnbx Posts: 28
    Hope my post helped.

    Mine too would stop the grinding noise by switching to AWD. Obviously by being in AWD the system was no longer trying to keep the hubs locked out. We had to resort to AWD on the way back from the beach at Hilton Head Island this summer. On the hills in NC/SC the vacuum would drop with any extra gas pedal at all in 2WD high and all the grinding would start. Stopped immediately in AWD.

    With reference to the time my 4wd system quit working, there was a switch (low cost as Ford prices go) that was bad. Not clear whether the battery acid had a role--but
    the switch is mounted on the firewall right in the area where the battery acid damaged the vacuum lines.

    Speaking of frustrations, it was only after the second or third repair that the dealer found the acid was causing the problem. Earlier had said the vacuum lines may have been rubbing on a sheet metal edge.

    P.s. Thought about removing the battery shield (bag looking thing)as it sags over against the above vacuum lines near the firewall. But, don't know the function of this new high tech bag apparatus? Ha!
  • nbxnbx Posts: 28
    I had a 2003 Expedition 4WD that had to have the "S" spring fix which is apparently the same repair you mention.

    Except for the time when the 4wd went out 100% and had to have the switch on the firewall replaced, my 2004 has not had any noises or malfunction at all in 4WD in either high or low.

    Up to 60,000 miles on my 2004 NBX. Overall low trouble and feeling I might drive it for a while now that gas is down around $2. Would like to have the extra bit of power of the 5.4 3v from 2005 and up. The only other significant probelm for my 2004 has been that 3 of the 4 NBX's off-road steel wheels are bad out-of-round from the factory per the local tire stores. Wheels made by Hollander? Anyone know? Need to find some decent wheels--driving me nuts, wheel balancing no help.
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    IS it ok to keep it in 4AWD all the time even on the highway??? I want to keep it in 4AWD until i can bring it to the dealer.
  • nbxnbx Posts: 28
    Yes, OK all the time in the 4AWD setting wet or dry. But, only wet or snow in 4wd high or 4wd low. The 4AWD results in a 1/2 mpg or so fuel mileage penalty, but no problem at all using 4AWD for days on end on dry pavement.

    P.s. I felt confident before my post under number 1634 above that my experience with the vacuum leaks and the hub noise in 2wd would be of value to others. This mystery front 4X4 hub noise was solved as a joint venture between the Ford dealer shop manager, the Ford District Rep and me. The first time we could not duplicate the noise on any hills nearby, but the Ford District Rep happened to be there that day and knew about the problem from visits to other Ford shops. He outlined steps to solve the problem based on my description. the District man however did not mention battery acid as the culprit with the vacuum lines. Amazingly no harm to the front hub assembly has been noted even though it sounded like the left front wheel was being ground off.
  • How did you get in touch with the Ford Distric Rep?????
    I would SO love to contact mine in South Florida about my loose steering rack. The dealer just brushes it off that "it drives better then most" and "it would be difficult to find the problem". Contacting Ford themselves does no good, they just tell me that i need to see a dealer, and even though theres a TSB for a nibble in the rack, theres no TSB for loosened racks. Pretty lame, huh. Anyway, if you can let me know where i can find out who my distric rep is, that would be a HUGE help.
    Thanks again
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    We just got an 03 Expy eddie bauer. Our problem is that it only came with one key and no alarm. In fact we don't even have the door key pad code.

    WE LOVE IT!!

    Does anyone know how to get the key pad code?? Does the dealership charge for this information?

    -Cj :confuse:
  • My light came for a cpl days took it to advance auto and they read the code. code was 1450 said they had no idea anything over 999 in codes had to go to the dealer. So I went outside started the truck up and light was off.truck runs fine does anyone know of this code?
  • Folks, if you have the symptoms I described above...I found that it was the fuel pressure regulator causing the problem. A simple $35 item anyone can install. Note: there are various part listings for this piece and be sure to look at your unit before going to buy one. My '99 Expedition 5.4l Eddie Bauer 4WD took a (OEM Part No.): XR3E-9C968-AD (Motorcraft part No. CM4911)...same part fits the 4.6l engine. It has no bolt holes and is retained by a "C" snap ring; it's located on the driver side EFI fuel rail, just about mid-way along the intake manifold above the injectors and coil/plugs. Check to see if a little spray of ether (engine start spray) ignites and runs for a second or two...if so, and you have a crank, no start, no faults or codes...replace the fuel pressure regulator; a cheap first step. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • nbxnbx Posts: 28
    The Ford Rep just happened to be there that day. No attempt to contact. One other time on a problem with the front limited slip on 1995 Bronco, the District Rep was there that day too and agreed on the spot to disable the awful functioning front axle limited slip. If you hook with the District Rep, get a resolution on the spot if possible.

    Another idea is to strike up a conversation around the shop and someone will blab out the date the Rep will be there, the name, etc. Old police trick. HA! Another is to make a total pest of yourself while maintaining business like composure. And, fill out and keep a copy of the dated form requesting the District Rep call you. Have someone there sign and process the request.

    But, over the years I have done the best by working as close as possible with the shop manager or tech closest to the problem. They feed off praise--let the local guy be the one to make the call in your favor assuming they can fix the problem in the first place.

    General TSB such as from NHTSA can be helpful, but they can be misleading.

    Close observation of the sights, sounds, smells related to the problem is paramount in helping the tech if the problem cannot be duplicated. Write down date(s)and time,temperature, towing or not, speed, load, etc.

    Ford also has something called Oasis where the tech inputs problem information into a nationwide Ford database. I had a 2003 Ford Explorer that had a weird A/C moaning noise that was only heard when temp and humidity were both over 83-85. Right there in black and white on the Oasis printout was the problem plain as day--the Ford tech believed me then. Only Ford did not have an economical fix and said to check back later. The A/C completely quit under warranty later and the noise never returned.

    Finally don't be a total cheapskate. The dealer trying to make a profit notices when you pay for what is fairly yours.

    ..hope some of the above might me of help to you..
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