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Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    Im FINALLY, after months and months of complaining about the spongy rack on my '03 Expy, the dealer is finally giving in a warrentying a new rack. Only problem i have is trust. They almost didnt do it until i complained and complained and showed a STACK of papers of work orders for this complaint that ive brought i to multiple dealerships. My question is. . . how can i be sure they actually put in a NEW rack and not a rack from another truck or a quick-fix job???? Is there something i can ask for for proof? Even on the reciept im sure it will have a part number but how can i be sure that part went into MY truck???
    Please give me some advice ASAP. . .
    THANKS GUYS :confuse:
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    I assume you are talking about the p/s rack? I think the '03s use a 'new and improved' ratio rack - it is a slower rack than other years. Maybe you could convince them to order the rack from a newer model year? I think they went back to the original ratio in '04.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Hi All-
    Have a question. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Whenever I close the liftgate (back door), there's a rattle around the door handle/license plate area. However, everything appears to be secure. I cannot make the door rattle when it's open. I have no idea what might be lose or not engaging properly when I close the door.

    The door closes tight and the rattle only occurs during closing, not after the door is closed. Has anyone else experienced this? I guess I expect a solid "thunk" when I close the door. It's more of a nuisance than anything else, but I am fishing to see if it's a warranty item since I still have about 400 miles left on the warranty for this puppy.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • razzmaniacrazzmaniac Member Posts: 22
    The steering rack is what im talking about. . .
    i just dont want them to take one from another truck or do a quick fix on mine and then warrenty it and collect the $$$ and say they put a new one in mine .. isnt there like a "box top" or like a serial # i can get for the "new" one they put in mine so i can use that if i have a problem with it????? I just dont wanna leave thinking, ok, i got me a new rack. . .and then have problems with it also.
    Thanks
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Maybe it's just your license plate.
  • razzmaniacrazzmaniac Member Posts: 22
    well, i got my expy back today after spending a week in the shop for the groaning in the 4x4 hubs and the steering rack. . .
    ITS WORSE THEN WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN
    The groaning is so loud now that i can feel the vibration thru the floorboard. .
    they replaced the steering gear and yes on turning is a bit tighter, but on the straight away, same amount of dead zone/play in the steering wheel. . .no change there.
    i have a STACK of work orders and work thats been done on the Expy since i bought it 8 months ago. . im so over it, i cant take it anymore. . .i have a huge loan with 4+ years to pay on it. . im not gonna go thru this for 4 more years. .
    they better be able to just take it back. . . its not gonna be pretty when i go there on monday. . ugh. . hate to do it cause i love my Expy, but this just validates fords bad reputation and that the dealerships cant and WONT find and fix certain problems.
  • hopkins1hopkins1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I own a 2006 King Ranch Expedition. It has 7,000 miles on it and today I heard a loud rattle on/around the tailgate. I secured the license plate and the dealer plate frame around it, but it still rattles. I will take it in tomorrow, but I think there is a noise buffer - made of plastic - that runs up and down along the inside of the rear frame - it is about 20 inches long on the left and right hand side of the inside entry way. When the tailgate closes, it rests against these two side panels and I think they can buffer out any rattling.

    When I close the tailgate and then press gently on frame I can hear a rubbing, or clicking noise, on the left side right where the door rests against this plastic strip that is attached onto the inside well of the Exp. frame.

    You can find these two bugger strips just above the rear tail lights on either side of the inside frame.

    I will ask about your problem tomorrow too - I reckon the tailgate weights in between 60 to 100 lbs (??) so it needs to fit just right otherwise it will rattle.

    One of the big challenges SUV makers had - easily by the late 90s' - was dealing with the car-like demands SUV buyers were making. Big SUVs have add-ons that weigh alot and the components that take up space. Over time, these things bend, shift, and even warp (ie., inside plastic door panels).

    Thus far I have only had to replace a rear passenger door window frame strip (a rubber band that seals the space between the inside frame and window). I see, however, that the driver side exterior strip - on the top right hand corner - sits up a little high (as in it wasn't flush to the car frame when they installed it).

    All this to say, I think if you want to buy a good SUV, it is worth walking around the vehicle and equally so, paying close attention to the inside, with a view to picking out those things that are going to warp, crack, shift, and rattle.

    Goodluck!

    Thanks,
    James
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Thanks for the info James. I know it's not the license plate. I removed it, and it still rattles only when I close it. There's no road rattle. It's just a rattle when the door is closed. And everything seems to fit, so it's more of a nuisance than anything else. But I'll take a look at the stuff you mentioned.

    Thanks for your help!
  • hopkins1hopkins1 Member Posts: 2
    Dear Bronsonb,
    Just a follow up to the rattling tailgate. My own situation appears to be resolved. The mechanics placed a load of what looks like colorless grease on the two side latches on the tailgate - when you close it they connect with the main frame via two latch counterparts and a cork sized stopper. They also tightened some screws, but I can't see where exactly. Lastly, they may have added more glue to the two latches that attach to the rear window on the inside from the tailgate frame (you have to look underneath when you pop open the back window to see where the hinge affixes).

    They said uts was standard practice on a rattle like this. My own hunch with your rattle is that it has to do with the top hinges (either on the window or the tailgate), as opposed to a feature that helps the door sit left to right - just thinking about what the physics on opening and closing.

    You may also want to get an estimate - if it isn't more than tightening and slathering the back door in grease (geez, I thought about putting the groceries in and all this guck - I joked that maybe they should have tried bubblegum - but it looks fine and the ride is quiet and I don't expect to get the interior messed up.)

    In short, maybe they will only charge labor (i.e., a half hour), or you may want to tinker with it yourself.

    As a side note, I checked out the 2007 Exp. EL Eddie Bauer and it has a power rear door using a single hydraulic arm on the driver's side.

    I got a trade in estimate on the King Ranch, currently with $44,000 outstanding - with a dealer trade in value of $23,000. This is below the bluebook by about 2k, but it shows the rapid depreciation - explained in part by the 2007 new model year.

    In any event, I am happy with the Exp. and frankly prefer the 4 speed to a 6. I can't say owning this beast surprises me because I knew what I was getting into from the get go - we love the space and safety. Also, I bought a massive warranty (and thus the decision to get it new) - it is a combo of the manufacturer, dealer, and a private company. Because I have relied on it twice already (for this rattle and a warped strip on the interior), I have no regrets.

    Besides, how else can you move thousands of pounds of steel off a red light with car-like performance. In short, I hedged on all this and can't complain. You may be able to get a deal on the labor for a rattle - it shouldn't require a new part as near as I can see.

    Good luck with getting the rattle fixed!
    James
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    James-
    Looks like you and I are the only ones posting anything on this board :P . Thanks for the details on the rattle. It's bugging me from just a "what the heck is doing that" perspective. I'll take your advice and take a look at it.

    The Expy just went out of warranty last week when it topped 36K miles. I don't have the ESP, so it's all on me now.

    I just bought it used in October, and I have been very happy with it. I paid $19,500 for a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition with all the bells and whistles except navigation. It was the best price I could find for one with what I wanted. I spent a lot of time on ebay trying to get a deal, but in the end, those cars were going for what I could pay locally. And why buy off ebay sight unseen if you can get one locally and test drive it.

    But truth be told, I bought this one from a dealer in Mobile, Alabama that my dad has bought several cars from. He deals in high end late model foreign cars and received this Expy as a trade for a used Lexus. He cut me a nice deal and tossed in a new set of rims and tires. It had come with 22" chrome "dubs", which I didn't want to keep (not to mention the fact that the tire pressure monitoring system won't work with chrome wheels). So I sold the 22" rims and tires to my neighbor who sold them to someone else on CraigsList.

    Anyway, as you noted, it's great for hauling stuff. I've used it twice already to haul lumber for two bookcase jobs at our house. It was so nice to fit a half sheet of plywood easily in the back laying flat!

    My boys LOVE the SUV. My 2.5 year old can barely say "Expedition" but he says it every time we head to school. It's nice too in that my 6 year old sits in the "way back" and the 2.5 year old in the middle row. So no fights. Plus that DVD player and wireless headphones have been such a plus for long trips (two so far). We don't let them use it around town.

    I've been averaging 15.5 MPG with mostly city driving, but we managed to get 20 MPG on our last road trip.

    Strangely, I also find myself driving more slowly than with my old Passat wagon. I seldom go over the speed limit, but it could be because this thing weighs a bunch, and I don't want to waste gas just getting her going.

    Anyway, thanks again for all the info!

    Bronson Beisel
  • debiedebie Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I'm new to this forum. I came looking for an answer to a problem we are having with our 04 Eddie Bauer Expedition.

    It is a new problem to this new season of rain (Fall 06), never happened before.

    When I switch from 2wd to 4awd there is an initial "clank" and I feel the vibration under my feet. Then there is no noise at all, even when I switch it back to 2wd. But, if I then switch back over to 4awd I hear a "clank" again.

    Anyone have any suggestions?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    The fact that it never happened before may mean that this is a different issue. However, I can describe the TSB I had done to mine, but unfortunately I do not remember the TSB number itself.

    The clank in my front end was due to the fact that the two half shafts driving the front wheels were turning in different directions when in 2WD. The clank is the sound of the one half shaft changing directions as the 4Auto is engaged. The fix was to install an "S spring" or something like that which kept the half shafts moving in the same direction as each other when in 2WD. Once they are moving in the same direction there is no noise at all when 4Auto is engaged.

    I think if you describe the TSB to a service advisor they should be able to find it. I think the TSB updated at least once since I had mine done, but I think it came out in early 2003.

    Karl
  • j_hubesj_hubes Member Posts: 1
    I bought it brand new in July of '05 and I've loved it since day 1. Last summer on my way to work the engine started running extremely rough and the check engine light came on. I planned to drop it off at the dealership the next day, but when I started it up at work to take it home I got a ton of white smoke out the tail pipe, and it spit water when I hit the gas. I had it towed the 40 miles to the dealership, and they ended up changing the O2 sensor, all the spark plugs, and some of the fuel injectors. Everyone who saw the smoke and spitting water said it was the head gasket (including the service guy at the dealership), but in the end the dealership said that it wasn't. Again, this was over the summer (July or August) and I was at 35k miles.

    A week ago I started to notice that it was idling rough (though not as bad) and then the check engine light came on. I left it at the dealer and they said it was a second o2 sensor, and the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. I'm at 39k miles right now and it's starting to bother me that I'm already starting to have these kind of problems. Is there a reason the O2 sensors are failing at this rate? I get all my services on time, and 99% of my miles are highway. It's pretty much running under ideal conditions. Any suggestions or ideas?
  • parisezparisez Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 expedition, and when it rains, it runs very rough and stalls out. You have to use one foot on the break and one on the gas just to keep it running. Has anyone else had this problem and know the fix?????
  • audiophile74audiophile74 Member Posts: 4
    Is there any way to disable the horn when it honks when you lock/unlock the vehicle with the keyfob?
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    You should never hear the horn when you hit the unlock button.

    If you hit the lock button once, all the doors lock in silent mode.

    If you hit the lock button twice, you get one horn chirp if all doors are closed securely, two horn chirps if one or more doors is ajar.

    Mark.
  • clupercluper Member Posts: 4
    I have 275/60/17 size tires on my wife's exp. I just bought falkens and my gas milage went up some.
  • nickponickpo Member Posts: 1
    I have noticed after driving my 2004 EB Expedition that it makes this "thud" noise in the rear of the vehicle after parking and turning off the ignition. It usually occurs within 10-15 minutes after shutting off the vehicle.

    If you have ever had a thick cookie sheet in the oven and set it to preheat...when the metal hetas up it makes a "thud." It is that same kinf od sound only significantly louder.

    Seems to come from both sides at the rear of the vehicle. There is nothing leaking and mechanically the car drives fine.

    It in 2w drive at the moment...although this occurs in all settings. Any suggestiongs?
  • audiophile74audiophile74 Member Posts: 4
    I am only hitting the button once and it honks everytime! It's so annoying and it brings attention. I push the lock button once and it honks once. I hit the unlock button once and it honks twice! :confuse: :mad:
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    Not some aftermarket remote start thingy?
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Well, I've had my 2004 Expedition for a few months, and it was time for my first oil change. I prefer to do these myself, but I've never done one on an Expedition.

    Anyway, at first I was a bit daunted because there didn't seem to be any easy access to the oil filter. It was impossible to get to from the top of the engine. Below the engine, it seemed like I needed to contort myself to get to it.

    Then when I crawled out from under the truck, I noticed that Ford had designed it so that you could access the oil filter from just under the front of the truck. If you go under the front of the bumper and look up on the driver's side of the truck, you'll see the oil filter. The designers left a small opening there and even put a shelf of sorts underneath it.

    When I took the oil filter off, the shelf caught oil dripping from the filter bolt, and I was easily able to clean it up.

    Detroit got something right, and I just wanted to say I was quite impressed with how easy it was.

    The whole oil change and fluid top off took me about 30 minutes. It usually takes me 45 minutes on my wife's Passat (15 minutes to remove and re-attach that plastic lower engine area shield).

    Just wanted to share!
  • rhelmbrightrhelmbright Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 Exp pushing 130K miles and never changed my own oil until I bought this vehicle. It sits up high enough to crawl under comfortably and the oil filter is in the exact same place as you have discribed only without a shelf.
  • audiophile74audiophile74 Member Posts: 4
    Yes, it is the factory remote.
  • scottyv92scottyv92 Member Posts: 2
    i used the serach here for answers & didn't quite see what i'm looking for, so sorry if this has been covered elsewhere.

    1). is the an online repair manuel available for a 2003 expedition?

    2). mine no longer will raise & lower the passenger front window. other than the obvious 3 screws removed, what's the trick to getting the interior panel off without damage?

    please reply here, or better yet:

    [email protected]

    thanks in advance.

    scott
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    1). is the an online repair manuel available for a 2003 expedition?

    Yes, but....

    There's something called the Auto Repair Reference Center. It's an online database with all kinds of repair info. You have to have a login to access it though. Around here several libraries subscribe to it and you either go to library or (hopefully) can get on from home with your library card number or similar password. If you have that, it's free.

    I found my local ones by net searching "Auto Repair Reference Center Idaho."

    There's also alldata.com and chiltondiy.com (and more) that have diy info that you can buy.

    I don't recall anything online from Ford off-hand - anyone?
  • scottyv92scottyv92 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply & info.

    forgive me, but i'm not familar with your refernce to "libraries", as in "Around here several libraries subscribe to it ".

    if one would explain, i do appreciate it.

    please & thank you.

    scott
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Often your ordinary public library will subscribe to the databases. Both the city and county public library here subscribe to the Auto Repair Reference Center one, as well as the library at Boise State. I know that the Seattle Public Library offers online access to Alldata's manuals free for their patrons.

    I guess you'll have to search the net or call your local library to learn if anything is offered free in your area.

    Oh yeah, AutoZone also offers some repair instructions free. (link).
  • scott73scott73 Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 expedition power adjustable foot pedals quit working. My driver side power seat still moves so I figure the fuse is good. Is there a relay or actuator that I should check and if so where would they be? Or any other suggestions
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Are y'all still partying up in Boise?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You bet - 20,000+ people showed up a week ago today for a Bronco parade in sub-freezing temps (they waited a while since all the BSU students just came back to class a couple of weeks ago after the Fiesta... er, Christmas break).
  • lugster84lugster84 Member Posts: 6
    My driver's side heated seat is not working on my 01 EB Expy. The light comes on but no heat. Checked all fuses and wiring and found nothing. Any Ideas?? Thanks,
  • desert_knightdesert_knight Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I just signed up and seen this. I guess by the date you posted this you by now have the problem fixed if not please let me know.

    David
  • ddggoinsddggoins Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2006 EXPY AND THE A/C VENTS UP FRONT HAVE ALL BROKEN (THE LEVERS THAT ACTUALLY DEFLECT THE AIR) IT IS OUT OF WARRANTY. IT HAS THE CIRCULAR SHAPED VENTS DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET SOME REPLACEMENT VENTS AND HOW TO INSTALL THEM ??
  • stumpthegrumpstumpthegrump Member Posts: 2
    Is there a way to verify this? I have the same issue. When I turn the key I get nothing and the radio goes dead. It does eventually come back though. I do not hear anything until several seconds later it sounds as if something disengages. I ask this because I have to go to a dealer to get this part.
  • stumpthegrumpstumpthegrump Member Posts: 2
    OK. I was able to determine that the Relay was bad via an ohm meter. The bottom stud should be hot with greater than 10V. Then when the ignitiion is in the start position the top stud should be hot with > 10 volts. Mine wasn't. Replaced it $9.50 @ the local auto parts store.
    Thanks.
  • ayakataayakata Member Posts: 14
    Thank God I came across your post. My 99 expy was recently lifted and towed to the mechanic for some work. I got the car back on saturday, yesterday and I noticed it was very low at the back. The mechanic did mentioned that this was due to the air suspension, the car ride was so bumpy and shaking that I took the truck back today. I guess there is nothing the mechanic can do to it and I do no hope they will not try to dupe me by telling stories. I turned the switch, I mean the air suspension switch off and on couple of time after but still no changes. Just for future reference, so it is advisable to switch the air suspension off when the truck is getting ready to be lifted right?

    Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  • macman246macman246 Member Posts: 118
    It's always advisable to switch off the rear air suspension when put on a lift. This keeps it from constantly running.

    My '99's back end was bouncing around after a coupler failed under the hood. I heard a pfffhht sound like an air brake on a truck, then the back end wouldn't raise up anymore even though the compressor kept trying. I was parked and idling on a steep hill when it failed.

    If you don't hear the compressor trying to pump up the air bags, it's probably a fuse.

    Good luck.
  • stonerockstonerock Member Posts: 2
    I went to PepBoys and purchased a CD Manual for

    Ford
    Trucks, SUVs & Vans. there are charts, diagrams and pictures showing parts and wiring etc.

    Hope this helps.
  • mrtedmrted Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Expedition EB 4x4, 5.4 engine and I need to replace the lower ball joints and I need to know if I need a special tool or do I beat them out with a brass rod and hammer.
  • 85stang85stang Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Eddie Bauer Exp with 85K on it. At start up and occasionally during trips the air suspension compressor will be very loud (compared to how it used to be). Has anyone else had outcomes other than expensive replacements, and if not what all had to be replaced? Does this model have four way load leveling available? At one point it seemed to be riding low on one side, but the dealer said it only had front/rear leveling. Just curious. Thanks for any replies.
  • rbarbotrbarbot Member Posts: 19
    I have seen others post this problem here before but no solution that I can see.

    My 2000 Expy CD-Changer stopped working months ago and displayed "NO CDDJ" on the radio display when I push the CD button. The changer had no power and wouldn't eject the magazine.

    I wrongfully made the assumption that the changer was dead and sent it in for repair. Just got it back and it tests OK. Put it back in and the same error is displayed. All the audio fuses on the fuse block and under-hood fuse block check OK.

    What else can it be? Is there another fuse to the changer unit in the console or under the dash somewhere? Could the head unit be damaged? Short of solving this myself, will the dealer even be able to diagnose radio problems very well with a scope or other tools?

    Thanks in advance.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    My 2004 EB Expedition was in need of a battery. Twice this year I had to jump start it after letting accessories run without the engine running, so I opted to get a new battery.

    However, the positive cable was so corroded that I couldn't remove it. I looked at buying a new positive cable. I didn't check Ford, but AutoZone had one for $80 (positive and negative together).

    After fretting about the delay to get the cable (at least 3 days), I opted to try something else. I found a Lynx battery post adapter that clamps to the post and provides a bolt to hook cables to.

    The Expy battery has three items that bolt to the positive post. The bottom "cable" actually has the post welded to it that the two other cables attach to. That's also the cable that was so corroded I could not remove it.

    Anyway, I bought the Lynx post adapter and also bought a new DL-65 battery from AutoZone (CR best buy). I removed the negative cable and then cut the corroded bolt off on the positive side. I then proceeded to cut the corroded clamp part off of the positive cable. I was left with enough surface area and that little post. I cut off the post, drilled a hole in the flat part, mounted it on that post and then attached the other two cables above it.

    All worked well - no problem with starting or charging system. Total investment was $5.00 for the post adapter and $70 for the new battery. Much better than waiting 3 days for the new cable. I don't know if this is a kosher way of dealing with the problem, but it was sure a convenient and cost-effective way.
  • naviaggienaviaggie Member Posts: 1
    I was in a parking lot the other day, and I put the vehilce in to drive to move out of the spot. I went to pick up my friend, and I tried to put it in park but the shift lever would not come out of drive. It was still in gear so I drove it home and the transmission shifted gears fine. At home I could not put it in park so I turned it off and I could not get the key out.
  • suzy3suzy3 Member Posts: 2
    Took my expedition in to sell to an auto broker. He unscrewed the oil cap and compression went down along with idle. He said, this is a sign of bad rings. Is this true? If so, how much to fix? Need to sell for $$ looking to find out how to get it fixed and sold. Thanks!
  • jg88jg88 Member Posts: 59
    Just experienced our 1st repair on our 04 4x4 expy eb -- had to replace the battery and cables -- battery was DOA and cables were toatally corroded. It's just shy of 50k miles and about 38 months old. Otherwise, we've had no problems at all. Have kept up with the truck every 5k miles for scheduled services and have gone by the book.

    BTW, we will get 55k miles on the oem conti tires. Had to replace 1 tire do to a sidewall flat and used the spare tire across from the new tire putting the older tire on the spare rim.
  • shand32783shand32783 Member Posts: 76
    So after almost 6 years I finally hit 30,000 (actually 31,000) after a long road trip on my Expy. What services beyond the normal oil change stuff should I be looking at?

    Thanks for your time.
    Shane
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to check this out: Maintenance Schedule

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • cadetcadet Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I own a 97 Eddie Baur Expedition too and with the same noise problem when the compressor kicks in. Right now my rear wheels are low and wont get up. Your advice please.

    Thanks,

    Cadet.">
  • mrmikeymrmikey Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2007 Expedition EL. Occasionally the A/C just shuts off. It usually comes back on in a second or two, but once it didn't come back on at all. The only way to get it to come back on was to stop the car, turn the engine off, and resart. Then I could turn the A/C back on. This occured after going over a speed hump at 20 MPh. But sometimes in will just shut off. Sometimes I'm on the freeway, sometimes at a stop light. Like I said it will usually come back on by itself. This has been occuring since the car had just a few hundred miles on it.
    Plus the A/C seems to take a long time to get cold. Haven't brought it in yet, but just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem, or might know what is causing it. Of course when I go in, the dealership will probably give me the old "well we can't replicate the problem" routine, so I know I'm going to be frustrated as usual. Please help !!
  • mizzmonique82mizzmonique82 Member Posts: 1
    I've been recently experiencing the same problem with my 98 EB, I had my brake pads replaced and rotors turned & i was still having the brakes pulsate on me, but not all the time, i had some motor medics take it for a drive, but of course the brakes didnt pulsate, then i noticed the ABS light on, so i talked to a few people and they said it might be the sensors. Well I happened to take my truck to the drive thru car wash with the undercarriage cleaner and my abs light went off, and my brakes didnt pulsate until the front rims got dirty again, so i took it for another undercarriage clean and it stopped again. I dont know what the deal is, but I just decided it was time to get a new car before mine falls apart. I love my Expedition to death though...
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