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I am trying to buy a 2004 rsx
I just looked at one this afternoon.
Car is in good shape and deal is pretty good too.
I would love to buy it if I can resolve this problem.
when I was test driving this car, I noticed high-pitched noise comming from
the front of the car. I could only hear it between 0-10 miles and when I went faster
the sound disappeared.
Noise sounded like high-pitched electric/flapping sound. I was not loud but I could clearly hear it.
I am a first time driver and knows nothing about car.
Please enlight me people!
At irst, it was heard only when starting car cold; now it may be heard any time.
It's hard to replicate, as it comes and goes.
any suggection will be greatly appreciated!
I turned on my head lights only to find no low beams, but I have high beams and all other lights. Any one else have this problem and does any one know what the problem might be? I have had to replace the drivers side low beam bulb twice before this happened.
All I said was, sitting still turn car on and step on brake and you get a clickking noise and it's normal. :shades:
Thanks
If you live in the San Jose area, I will be happy to help you for a very small fee,
$25, a case of good beer, or something similarly creative..
Also I was driving to work the other day with the windows down and when I went to roll them up the passenger side window rolled about half way up and then I heard a loud noise (like somebody had thrown something at my car). The window then slowly went down into my door and will not roll back up. Any ideas on what this could be?
And just so you're braced for it, power window repairs are usually on the pricey side :sick:
Here's hoping you get a break and it's something simple.
to see if its your throwout bearing park the car on level ground or put the ebrake on, turn off all systems sterio a/c etc.. , then start the car keep the clutch pedal on the floor and listen too how it runs. then release the clutch and if it gets louder than its the throw out bearing,also you can hear the difference when you rev the engine with the clutch in or out with it pushed in its runs very smooth and sounds good, with the pedal out it will be alot louder and not sound that great
The bearing plate was replaced by my local garage, as Acura said it would not be covered by warranty because the Koni's weren't factory. . Noise was the same. Because of Koni Sport Shocks, the dealer wants another $180.00 to figure out if it is a warranty problem. The first look was $60.00 with no conclusion. There were posts in 2006, but no description of what parts are involved with front end noises. and what was the actual fix. The struts were pulled from an "S" car, so they have only mileage from 2006 with the Koni's, the first set installed by them in Kentucky. There was a factory defect, so they have been changed a second time.. I am reluctant to give them the rest of the money, and then they tell me its not under warranty, and want more money to put it all back together if its not covered. I still have the original struts also, but one of them had a leaking "damper". I have about 27K left on the warranty due to the class action suit
about incorrect speedometer readings on a leased Honda car.
.
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my extended warranty is increased to 102500 Miles.
check the WEB I am not he only RSX owner that has had this happen.
Anyone else have an engine failure at low miles and ZERO Warranty Support? Yet another class action suit?
Is it true? Acura =A CAR U Repair Allot!
For grunts 'n grins, I looked at various entry-level 2008-2009 cars to see how many (if any) cars were still offered with manual windows. Those old crank-em-ups are nearly extinct. I never had any problems with those, but convenience obviously dictated that power windows are the way to go on nearly everything. Replacement parts/repairs can be a real pain.
Thanks in advance.
i've read some similar problems being reported.... have you or anyone else have any luck getting Acura to step up and honor the warranty?
- Show quoted text -
On Mon, Jan 5, 2009 at 10:21 PM, Edmunds.com Forums wrote:
New message posted in Acura RSX Maintenance and Repair
#1022 Re: 2005 RSX type S blown engine at 29000 miles [bldgtchr] by opiazza Jan 5, 2009 (9:21 pm)
hi i had the same problem (02 RSX-S)... driving under normal conditions and BAM! the engine blew up.... dealer told me i downshifted from 5th to 2nd... i was in 5th gear when i heard some rattling and shifted to 6th... then it happened when i tried to shift to 5th again... anyways the engine is gone.... i've read some similar problems being reported.... have you or anyone else have any luck get...
View/reply at: Re: 2005 RSX type S blown engine at 29000 miles [bldgtchr]
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The service guys were dumbfounded.
It was determined that I need a new exhaust camshaft, exhaust rockers, timing chain, chain guides and whatever other seals and gaskets that are necessary to do this repair correctly.
The parts are on order, and the dealership is waiting for some information as to the cause (maybe a TSB that never got a lot of use) from the Acura tech line.
This engine has been trouble free and REALLY good on gas (32-35mpg highway) for 100,000 miles. It ran like a champ.
Has anyone heard of anything like this before? Where's a metalurgist when you need one??
BTW:
The service rep told me that the only other time they saw something like this was when a racer discovered this problem on his engine. The racer was (obviously) used to building up and tearing down, but he decided to let the Acura folks look into this one. I don't know how long ago this happened
I went to a BMW and wife has IS Lexus. I think Acura goofed dropping the RSX line. I liked the car,except for cheap leather.
Well, sorry about your tires. :shades:
How you change the plugs using a standard socket set??
Step 1: Make sure the engine is COLD!!! Remove the bolt.
Step 2: Unclip/unplug the wire to that ignition coil.
Step 3: Slowly-Carefully.....twist and pull the ignition coil up off of the spark plug.
Step 4: The plug is burried deep. You'll need a 10" to 12" extension on your ratchet
Step 5: SLOWLY remove the spark plug. If those are the original plugs AND they have NEVER been removed, there is no guarantee that the plug will come out. If it is too difficult, don't force it and risk breakage. If the plug comes out with no problem, coat the threads of the new plug with ANTI-SIEZE COMPOUND. I'm making a big stink over this step because when you leave a steel plug in and aluminum head for 100K miles (8-year-old assembly), your chances of removing that plug w/o stripping the threads or snapping the plug altogether are slim. If you can't move it, take it to a mechanic that knows how to handle something like this.
I have a 2004 RSX with 110K. I bought it new, read the owners manual, and decided to remove the plugs every 30K, coating the threads with anti-sieze compound, and simply putting them back in. At 90K, I actually replaced the plugs without incident.
One more tip: When inserting the plugs, I use TWO spark plug sockets: one socket partially holding the plug to guide and start it in the threads, and the other spark plug socket WITH THE GROMMET REMOVED to finish and torque the plug.
Works EVERY time! :shades:
Puffin1, the michelins seemed a bit pricey though am sure they would have been worth it vs the bridgestones.
Live and learn. Just wanted to impart this experience with other rsx/s drivers to avoid my mistake.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
But I'm very surprised that a Honda/Acura engine would have that kind of problem at barely 100K miles.
I hope you have many more "quiet" years with it! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It now has 60K miles on it. I love this car, but I so regret buying it.
This car has been in the shop for rattles, loose guards and petty problems about 6 times so far. I've had trouble with my dealership, and won't go back there. They gave my car back twice and it still rattled. I had to drive around the block with the manager in the car to prove I wasn't crazy.
......
My car burns about 3.5 quarts of oil in a month. I'm using mobile 1 fully synthetic. I am constantly adding new oil and fighting low oil conditions. Though I might take the car to 6K on freeway ramps, I've never beat on it so hard that I deserve all these problems (the car red lines at 8K.... vtec doesn't kick in till 5800 anyway)
Due to the constant low oil conditions, I have a worn / stretched timing chain and throws a CEL code every other day.
60K miles and needs thousands of dollars in engine work. Guess what? Its 2 months after the warranty expired. Burning 3.5 quarts a month might need a total rebuild and new piston rings. It almost certainly needs a new timing chain - which costs $1500 or more at the dealership.
Meanwhile, the suspension is knocking, I had to replace the brakes already within 2 years of owning a certified vehicle, and parts of the exhaust that were rusted and rattling.
I am in such despair. So many people told me, you can't go wrong with an Acura. So many people told me how well they retain their value, and how reliable they are.
Not mine. I'm probably gonna refi the car for $3-4K more, to pay for all the repairs it needs at 60K miles.
So awesome.