Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford F-150 Owners

145791019

Comments

  • jefftsrjefftsr Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2004 F150 CREW FX4 IT HAS 13,000 MILES, IT PRODUCES A SIMILAR VIBRATION @ TAKE OFF. IT DOES NOT MATTER HOW EASY OR HARD YOU TAKE OFF, LAST FOR ABOUT 3 SECONDS
  • hurrikenhurriken Posts: 7
    I had a Reese bug shield (2 years) and I really liked it, but my daughter banged up the front end and it broke. I get my truck back from the body shop tommorrow and they replaced it with a Lund. They tell me it looks even better. But I here Lund cost more than most. I'll let you know how I like it.

    wpalkowski, thanks for the tire recommendation I will check them out.
  • mattn2mattn2 Posts: 4
    I bought my first F-150 in 1998, it was a 98 XL 4.2L V6 4 speed auto, after 5 years and 90K miles it didn't go to the shop one time.

    I traded it for an 03 XL V6 4 speed auto which I had for 2 years and 30k miles, again never went to the shop once.

    the 03 got traded for an 05 XLT 4.6 4 speed auto. I haven't noticed the wheel vibration on take off and I think I might be glad I didn't go for the bigger V-8. well time will tell. I like my F-150's
  • drchondrchon Posts: 3
    I have a '05 F-150 Super Crew and have had the nocking in the rear-end starting with 40 miles on the odometer. I had this "fixed" the first time, they replaced the Clutch pack. Then after 16 miles it started again. Took it back, they said they couldn't reproduce the problem, I refused to pick it up until it was fixed. They then said it was the "defective Yolk" and replaced this. After 14 miles, it started again. I am going to go back to them tomorrow and give them this info from this website to see if it can be fixed. I had a 2002 F-150 and never had 1 problem with it. I also think that I had more power than this 2005.
  • shineshine Posts: 20
    I don't do any towing just a little light snow plowing around my business. My question is how much will I lose with a 4.6. I'm not into off roading just driving to and from work. If the 5.4 is the way to go how much smaller is it them my current Dodge 2500 with a hemi? I can't see myself in a ranger but a F 150 with a smaller 8 should save me some gas. Any help appreciated.
  • I used to have an '84 F-250 with a 300 from the factory. Great truck! Would pull a house off it's foundation. It had the old borg warner 4 speed manual transmission. Wish I still Had it. Yes, it had plenty of power for moving through traffic too.
  • What are you talking about bad rotors & your vehicle vibrating. Driving through deep water with hot rotors will warp them, for example. Dont blame the manufacturer for the way you drive the vehicle...if you're driving off road. Yes, 4 wheel drive is designed for off road( my friends & family do it a lot, but we know the difference in defective products & damaged products) & we are responsible for taking care of problems that we create. We aren't looking for the free ride.
    A friend that I work with is 70 years old & he paid cash for a 2004 F-150 Lariat Super Crew that now has over 40,000 miles on it. Once in a while I ride around the job site with him & also on the highway. No vibration in his truck. He loves the 300 horses & isn't shy about putting his foot in to get around the people with their head up in the clouds.He drives 36 miles to get to work @ 70 + mph.
    Rotors are not guaranteed.....by anybody. BMW techs change rotors when they change pads. Good luck with your dodge.....or chevy.........or toy.
  • rconradrconrad Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 1991 Ford 150 Lariat with a straight 6 engine. Recently, after purchasing the vehicle from a friend, I noticed it was sputtering and acting up when I first started pulling away from a drive or a stop. It does this alot between first and second...but gradually goes away when I get it up to 30-40 miles an hour. Thing is it doesn't do this all the time. It acts like what everyone is talking about...like an o2 sensor.Which seems to be the answer...but it acts like its fighting for oxygen or gas. Kinda acts like when you are low on gas. Also, I noticed one nite as I was coming home from work, that I would see what would happen if I changed over on tanks...and it almost acted like that because there was no fuel in the other tank. Anyway, it seems to run better or starts off better when it is cold, but once it gets warmed up its doing its thing again. Like I said before, it doesn't do this all the time!!! Anyway, I sure would like some input if you have any! Anyway, I did change the fuel filter cannister under neath the frame on the driver's side and that didn't take care of the problem. Anyway, need some advice is there another fuel filter on the engine block that I don't know about!!! Would like to hear your advice!!! Thanks!!!!
  • I had a 1985 F-150 that caused me similar problems for about 3 years. Many mechanics looked at it. One drove it for a week. My 16 year old son fixed it. Dropped the rear gas tank while I was at work and there was rust. I left that tank off and sealed off the hoses and never had another problem.
  • marv2marv2 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2002 F150 extended cab Harley Davidson Series.Does any one have any performance mods that they can suggest
  • drchondrchon Posts: 3
    see message #193. I now have a lemon. I was told by the head mechanic that after putting in shims to change the pinion angle by 1.5 degrees that there is nothing that can be done to get rid of the vibration on take off. There has been a Tech. Service Bulletin on this issue. A Ford Engineer is going to take a look at this. I am going to have to get my money back on this truck through the BBB.
  • drchondrchon Posts: 3
    I bought an '05 Supercrew. The brochure said I could play MP3's with my 6 disc in dash player. It doesn't! I finally had them replace it with one that does play MP3's and now my DVD player will not work. Any one have the same problem?
  • hurrikenhurriken Posts: 7
    Just a note on the Lund bug shield.
    I liked the way the Reese looked and was reluctant when they said they were changing the broken one for a Lund. But, I have to say the Lund looks even better. The quality seems good and the screws have rubber boots that should help protect the plastic against breaking there. I did find it tough to find a place to grab the hood when I close it but thats no big deal. I have no idea how much they cost though it was covered by insurance.
  • mcali2mcali2 Posts: 1
    I have the same thing happen .I changed the oil with after market brand and some 4 oz bottle of something not from ford, but a auto parts store. it started to chatter when i turned . i just replaced the oil and added the four oz bottle of friction stuff drove it a mile or so but i still have the same shutter .. is there something that can wear out ? if i did not use the correct additive? i drove it for 2 months and about 2k Miles b4 i changed the oil again .. my ford is a 01 f 150. note the chatter is not extremely bad but you can feel it. :confuse:
  • nmu_dozernmu_dozer Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 f150 w/ 52000 miles on it and just replaced the complete rear end :sick: My truck started to feel like it was slipping on all turns about a month prior, started out feeling like it was just slipping off of gravel to pavement, barely noticable but got progressively worse. After having it completely apart and redone, I was shown the clutch that had been wore down to approx an 1/8" from what it was originally like a 1/4" or maybe 3/8"? Anyways, after my mechanic had been calling around to find parts he began learning more and more of these trucks are having problems....solution......change your fluid every 20000 miles and add the additive to it at the same time....Hopefully this will help, cannot afford to replace another rear end.
  • andre7280andre7280 Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 F-150 5.4L with 2 wheel drive and am moving north soon. Does anyone know how a 2 wheel drive truck works in a part of the country that is covered with snow 4-6 months a year? I'm thinking of buying a 4x4 before I head up there, but they are pricey. Any help would be appreciated.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    If you don't have a limited slip rear diff, then your truck will be VERY skittish in the snow, even with a heavy load in the bed. I'd recommend a 4x4 (I swear by 'em here in NJ), but if you're not interested in spending the bucks for one, equip your 4x2 with a quality locking rear differential.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • fmgfmg Posts: 2
    i have a 89 f-150 lariet xlt. everytime i switch to the rear tank, i only get about 1/2 mile and it acts like it's out of gas, then stalls. and on the frame is a canister where 2 fuel lines enter and 1 exits. can this canister be cleaned. ? whats its purpose? any help
  • fmgfmg Posts: 2
    i've been thinking about changing the rear end in my 89 f-150 lariet xlt . it has a tow package, and i haul a rec. vehicle with it. would it be advised to change , just for better gas milage ?
  • monksmonks Posts: 1
    hi all I got an for 1989 150 XLT Lariat it has about 150k on it and is in good shape.
    the problem I have is gas millage it seem to go though my 15 gal tank like a leak.
    I get about 100 miles to perr fill up. I should be geting around 12 to 15 i think for a truck that old ?

    i need any sugestions to help improve my gas millage

    thanks for your time
  • t2b1r3t2b1r3 Posts: 4
    fmg

    The trucks with dual tanks have 3 electric fuel pumps. Two low pressure in-tank pumps, 1 each inside of the front and rear tanks, pump fuel into a reservoir (the canister you speak of). A high pressure frame mounted in-line pump then takes the fuel from this reservoir to the fuel injectors.
    Check the in-tank fuel pump in the rear tank to see if it is working. If it quits for any reason, the reservoir has enough gas to prevent fuel starvation when changing tanks and might hold enough to go this distance.
    The tank selector switch on the dash controls which tank’s fuel pump is operating and pressure from the selected tank’s pump in turn moves a diaphragm operated valve in the reservoir to control that the selected tank supplies fuel to the in-line high pressure pump as well as directing the return fuel line to the selected tank. One symptom of malfunctioning of this dual function reservoir is apparent poor fuel mileage on one tank, and good mileage or overflowing of the other tank.
    Hope this is of some help.
    AJ
  • deanadeana Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a used 2000 F150 4x4 with the triton v8 5.4. It is a automatic transmission with the automatic overdrive, Is it normal to kick into gear a little harder when accelerating at a faster speed. When I'm going 65, and push it to pass another vehicle, getting the rpms up to 3 or 4, when it cuts back to 2 rpms, it seems to be a harder shift pattern. Is this normal or do I need to take it in for a transmission check up?
  • dop50dop50 Posts: 162
    I'll try to make this short as possible.

    Purchased truck about 3 weeks ago. Filled both tanks.
    Ran truck on front tank tank till about 1/4 full.
    Filled front tank and started running on rear tank. Ran till about 1/8 full.
    Refilled rear tank and started running on front tank again.
    Started making a buzzing sound, and runs really crappy on front tank. If I switch to rear tank, the buzz goes away and runs fine. However, the front tank shows past the full mark quite a bit now, and fuel mileage is terrible. Sounds like the front tank is sucking air when I switch to it, also.

    Would it be the front tank pump, or the high pressure pump. I only get the buzzing sound when switched to the front tank. How big a job is it to replace the "in tank" fuel pump. (The front tank is FULL). Can I siphon the fuel out of this tank with a hose? or is there an anit-siphon divice?

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks in advance.

    Ken
  • dop50dop50 Posts: 162
    BTW, my truck is a 1989 Ford F-150 xlt lariat, also.

    Ken
  • vinny2424vinny2424 Posts: 4
    My truck is a 2005 f-150 crew 4x4 lariat with power moon roof the headliner vibrates with every bump,anyone having similar problems.
  • Hiyas All,

    I finally got off my lazy butt and subscribed to the forums hehehe...

    I have a Silver 2000 SVT Lightning...and just wanted to say hello...

    Scooter ;)
  • dop50dop50 Posts: 162
    After re-reading post #210, decided to check further. Switched lines from tanks on reservoir. Problem switched to other tank. Indicates a bad reservoir.
    Got a new one at local Ford dealership (Parts stores did not have one).

    Cost with tax....$103.95.

    AJ, your advice helped me also, in addition to (fmg). THANKS!

    Talk about good timing, what are the chances of getting on one of these boards with a problem and somebody else has the same exact problem at almost the same exact time. Cool!

    I haven't installed the reservoir yet but am 99.9% confident this is the problem.

    Ken
  • jblack1jblack1 Posts: 2
    Okay I have a 1991 F-150 Custom... It's got the 4.9 in it - it has the dual tanks and all that stuff... Truck has been running fine - in fact I just had the whole front end rebuilt to cut down on shaking (worked like a charm).. Now I don't know a whole lot about cars so some of my terminology might be a bit off...

    So my problem is that my truck won't start... I originally thought it was the battery terminals - so I bought some new ones and it worked.. but then it stopped again and wouldnt start back up (even jumping it wouldnt help) so then I thought it might be the batter cuz when I turned the key - the batter guage went all the way down to 8V and i've never noticed if it did that before or not...

    So I bought a new battery - didnt fix the problem... I had my uncle tow it to his repo-lot and had his lot tech look at it for me - and he pulled the black hose off the fuel regulator thingy that goes toward the engine (sorry for the message being vague) - it's the hose that like spits off into two.. he took one of those off and sprayed some starter fluid into it and cranked it and it started right up but then died...

    Any ideas what it might be? Any help is appreciated.
  • dop50dop50 Posts: 162
    Well, the reservoir/selector valve was my problem. Other than one of the cast in nuts slipping and having to pry the old on off the frame rail, it went back together nicely and runs fine again.

    jblack1 - Sounds like you have a fuel problem also. I don't know a lot about these trucks, but with my problem I found out they have a lot of diffferent set-ups as far the fuel system is concerned. I expect you have fuel injectors, in which case you should have somewhere above 50 psi.fuel pressure at the engine. If not, then you probably have a fuel pump problem also. Try switching your selector to the other tank, if you get the same result, and you have low pressure, it's likely the high pressure pump, if you only have the problem on one tank, then it may be an in-tank pump, or maybe you'll be lucky and have the problem in the selector/valve. In which case you won't have to drop a tank.

    Mine which was the selector valve, would start but then it would just die if I left it idle, or it would hardly run on one tank, (along with a buzzing sound) but when I switched to the other tank it ran fine.

    Don't know if this helps or not, but it's worth looking into. Good luck!

    Ken
145791019
Sign In or Register to comment.