Making my Camry go 1,000,000 miles

wain · January 2003

Do these pads heatup the disc more than OE?

armtdm · January 2003

Currently running a 92 Camry with 151,000 miles. Yes, age is becoming a factor. For example, due to boot damage had to replace an axle and Toyota no longer makes an OEM version, they are all aftermarket. Although the 92 hasn't changed much over the years engine wise parts will become more and more of an issue for me. Also, little things are going, seepages here and there, sticky gas pedal that I cannot for the life of me locate the problem. Gear indicator diode is out and not worth replacing etc. Overall, almost all Original Equip on the car, including the struts. Does one spend $500-600 for new struts on a car worth maybe $3000. What about a head gasket or tranny. Who knows. So far it does run well though.

Anyone have a possible solution for the sticky gas pedal. This casues the driver to push too hard on the pedal which casues the car to surge from a stop light. Annoying!

It is coming close to the point where minor irritants, when multiplied by several, get one to look in showrooms. The new Mazda 6 is looking good.

alcan · January 2003

Remove the air intake ducting and clean the throttle body & rear of throttle plate with air intake cleaner (not carb cleaner) and an old toothbrush. If no improvement check for wear at the throttle plate shaft bushings in the throttle body, allowing the edge of the plate to hang up in the bore.

8u6hfd · January 2003

Never checked the temperatures physically, so I cannot tell

wain · January 2003

my 94 gear indicator is also out - probably cause its always on when driving.
and the radio station light.

beethoven07 · January 2003

Sometimes I just have to wonder if it's that some people don't care or if it's that they just don't have an eye for perfection...

About 5 months ago I was driving north bound on the freeway between Portland and Seattle. About 50 miles south of Seattle there was a collision that resulted in a dump truck turning on its side spilling a load full of gravel. Due to the accident the emergency crews on the seen set up a traffic pattern whereby all north bound travelers passed the spill on the right shoulder of the freeway in single file. As I was passing, the street sweeper conveniently was working on the spill and ejected 5 or 6 pieces of gravel at my drivers door and front quarter panel. Sure enough as I stopped a few miles later to check my car I discovered a couple nice rock chips.

I decided to place a claim with my insurance agency to have the rock chip damage fixed when I got back to Portland. They sent me to Cadilac's body shop here locally in town. My insurance agent said "...if they can repair Cadilac's they should be able to do a good job on your Toyota..." Well famous last words. After the initial fix I immediately noticed a few things that bothered me. The chip repair and paint blending itself was done very well but I immediately noticed they seemed to cut a few corners in other ways. There was a lot of compound powder built up in the recesses of the door guard molding, and they took the inside inserts of the door out when they were doing paint touch up on the exterior and when they put the inserts back on they forgot to put a few of the screws in. Over the last few months I have come to realize that the drivers door speaker rattled and the molding at the bottom of the drivers door window no longer lined up perfectly with the molding on the rear drivers side door. Given that I sent the car in to have them touch up a few rock chips (there wasn't even any dents or dimples) and they managed to return the car to me with these problems I decided to not take the car back to them to have the speaker and the molding looked at. I decided instead to take it to one of the major local Toyota dealers. Bad move on my part it turns out.

The Toyota dealer did confirm that the body shop hadn't reassembled the door correctly. In fact they had managed to puncture my speaker (hence the rattling). Toyota repalced the speaker for me and reassembled the door. They also replaced the exterior molding piece beneath the drivers window. This was all billed to waranty so at least it didn't cost me anything. Not unsimilar to the body shop even Toyota seemed to poor quality work however. The power window and door lock control pod is now misaligned and they put a micro tear (maybe a millimeter) in the vinyl near the pod. The molding piece that they installed on the outside of the window seats perfectly except for the last inch or two where it extends past the rear of the window. There is a millimeter gap between the molding and the car door. Showing this to the service manager resulted in him bringing both the shop foreman and the parts manager out to look at my car. The three of them argued hastily with one another in front of me about the apparent poor quality of their work. They all pointed the finer at the other one. Finally they decided to order me yet another molding piece. We'll see if they can get it installed correctly.

The rest of the issues I'm just going to fix myself. I guess it goes to show that if you want something doen right you have to do it yourself. Neither Cadillac or Toyota seemed to be able to.

tk865 · January 2003

My current Benz has 130,000 on the clock, my last one has 280,000 when I sold it. Neither had a tranny or engine rebuild, though I feel this one may need one or both before 250,000 (I think the original owner was lazy with oil/fluid changes). Anyone thinking of having a go with a Benz is advised to get a diesel, something simple like a 240D with a stick shift. My 560SEL has that gawdawful self-leveling suspension that is a nightmare to keep up. In related news, my dad's 1990 Chevy truck (Scottsdale) is at 250,000 and climbing, no major repair.

My car's repairs to date:
Rotors
Control arm bushing
Hydrogen accumulators (air cells)
starter
radiator (cracked in a minor collision)
motor mounts

I'm gunning for 250K w/o overhaul, 500K life expectancy. I drive about 8,000 miles a year, so that should take a while.

nippononly · January 2003

you will never get to 500K unless you are an extraordinarily patient person who never tires of driving the same car your whole life!

beethoven: I am always amazed whenever I have a run-in with a body shop (too often, I am afraid) at how careless they are in reassembling things, and making sure everything works when they are all done. It is particularly amazing when you consider how much more expensive it is to say, fix a dent and repaint the car, versus a complete mechanical overhaul. You are certainly right that it is true that if you want something done right, you usually have to do it yourself!

drive4fun2 · February 2003

artdm: I have the same gas pedal problem with my '97 Camry. The TMC certified mechanic basically said it's very hard to fix. What I've noticed with mine is this: It only sticks when I pull my foot off it quickly. You mentioned the stop light frequency, I noticed that it happens when I'm first in line at the light, when the yellow catches me. As you're slowing down, touch the gas slightly to keep it from catching. Or I slip it into Neutral and rev the engine to avoid the neck jerk when the green comes.

jim112 · February 2003

armtdm and drive4fun2..

I have experienced the same problem with my '92 Camry 4-cylinder, which now is rapidly approaching 240,000 miles. The problem is likely a sticky throttle plate. Open the hood, find the air cleaner, follow the hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, disconnect the hose. Now look inside the throttle body and open the plate with your finger or with the throttle cable (having someone push the accelerator pedal while you watch may be helpful)and notice all the crud built up over the last (or should I say first) 151,000 miles. Get some carbuerator cleaner, a rag, a toothbrush, or whatever and clean the plate and the throttle body on both sides of the plate. Haynes Repair Manual cautions you to get carbuerator cleaner that is safe with catalytic converters and oxygen sensors but I don't see that as an issue as I always use that rag I mentioned to clean the mess up. I have repeated this exercise 2 or 3 times on my '92; my identical '95 has not experienced the problem in its first 159,000 miles.

beethoven07 · April 2003

Well... I'm sorry to say this will be my last post on this thread that I started. My Camry was stolen last night and the police officer said that there is a 99% chance I will never see the car again. ARRRGGGHHH!!!!

I thoroughly enjoyed my Camry for the time I had it. Maybe I will have to make my next car go the 1,000,000 miles. I only got to 28,000 on my Camry!

armtdm · April 2003

But why would anyone want to steal a Camry. they are a dime a dozen so to speak, not exactly a rare breed of car.

krzyss · April 2003

that is why policeman thinks it will never be recovered. It is in pieces now.

Krzys

andre1969 · April 2003

...no matter how dull they may be perceived, tend to rank high on the stolen car lists because of parts demand. There's a ton of Camrys out there, so chances are they're getting into a ton of accidents. As a result, parts for them are in demand. The Honda Accord is similar.

Cars like the Taurus, however, while they sell strong, aren't as in-demand, because since they depreciate quicker, it's easier to total them out in an accident.

Actually, up until the last few years, the old RWD GM intermediate Monte Carlo, Cutlass Supreme, etc ranked high on the stolen car lists, even though they were discontinued for 1988. They were popular...people who bought 'em held onto 'em...but they were also easy to steal...frameless windows, locks you could snag with a coat hanger, steering column easy to break into, etc.

Beethoven, sorry to hear about your Camry! I hope everything turns out for the best! Looks like you're going to have to start from scratch on that million mile quest!

nippononly · April 2003

nationally, the top three cars on the 2002 most-stolen list were all camrys, and amazingly, the 1989 model ranked as number one!

beethoven - so sorry to hear the news, I was monitoring your progress with great interest - was just thinking the other day that we had not heard from you in a little while.

Get an alarm for the next one - maybe it will deter the thieves. Sorry to hear that. :-(

andre1969 · April 2003

...I just found that list myself, and the whole '87-91 Camry actually makes the top 25!

Here it is...

1-1991 Toyota Camry
2-1989 Toyota Camry
3-1990 Toyota Camry
4-2000 Honda Civic SI
5-1994 Chevrolet C1500 4x2
6-1995 Honda Accord EX
7-1994 Honda Accord LX
8-1994 Honda Accord EX
9-1988 Toyota Camry
10-1996 Honda Accord LX
11-1993 Chevrolet C1500 4x2
12-1997 Ford F150 4x2
13-1990 Honda Accord EX
14-1991 Honda Accord LX
15-1996 Honda Accord EX
16-1987 Toyota Camry
17-1997 Honda Accord LX
18-1992 Honda Accord LX
19-1991 Honda Accord EX
20-1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4
21-2000 Chevrolet C1500 4x2 Silverado
22-1995 Honda Accord LX
23-1991 Acura Legend
24-1990 Honda Accord LX
25-1995 Honda Civic EX

I'm actually surprised that the newest Accords and Camrys aren't on the list? Maybe cars have to be a few years old before people start going through "questionable" means to get their cars repaired? Or maybe, a few years into the loan, some people have the car "stolen", instead of defaulting, if credit problems arise?

Just for kicks, here's the top-stolen car list from 1995...

1. 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
2. 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
3. 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
4. 1988 Honda Accord LX
5. 1994 Honda Accord EX
6. 1994 Toyota Camry LE
7. 1991 Honda Accord EX
8. 1987 Chevrolet Caprice
9. 1992 Honda Accord EX
10. 1990 Honda Accord EX
11. 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
12. 1986 Cadillac Deville
13. 1992 Honda Accord LX
14. 1989 Chevrolet Caprice
15. 1989 Honda Accord LX
16. 1984 Buick Regal
17. 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4
18. 1988 Chevrolet Caprice
19. 1988 Chevrolet Camaro
20. 1985 Buick Regal
21. 1987 Nissan Maxima
22. 1986 Buick Regal
23. 1986 Chevrolet Camaro
24. 1991 Honda Accord LX
25. 1987 Buick Regal

Interestingly, the '94 Camry was a hot item back then, but seems to have fallen from favor today.

nippononly · April 2003

it is that first thing you said - getting replacement parts from questionable sources...in a funky, messed up way it is a testament to the longevity of the Camry and Accord...people will go to great, even illegal, lengths to keep their 12-15 year old camrys on the road!

according2me · April 2003

get a manual transmission. In addition to a more bullet proof design, maybe the new generation of thieves won't know how to handle that 3rd pedal.

hobieslug · April 2003

thats too bad, being a mechanic I appreciate the fact that you wanted to take such good care of your car. My 94 accord has 250k and runs great
would hate to have it stolen. I'm #7 on that hit list

Mr_Shiftright · April 2003

What's happening to this country? Why can't we "Steal American" anymore?
BT--don't despair. Sometimes cars are just taken for a "joy ride". My friends 356 Porsche Cabriolet was stolen, and would you ever expect to see THAT car again?

Sure enough, some homeless guy stole it. They caught him, car undamaged, but he did put 2,000 miles on it in a short time!

dafracks · April 2003

Hello, I actually have a Camry with 253,000 miles on it and it has had a few problems. As things have come up I get them fixed. The mechanic who worked on it 30,000 miles ago said that the scoring inside the cylinders was still evident. It has been a great car for me.

Now in the mornings when I start it, it is difficult (although I replaced the battery 7 months ago) It cranks but doesn't catch for a bit. It's also running rough despite the service it has received on schedule. I've never missed a service or oil change yet.

The mechanic replaced a distributor wire which did nothing to improve the roughness. The car runs rough in Drive - less so in Neutral. When I am driving on the free way I don't notice it cutting out, just when I'm idling at a stop light - or backing out of my driveway/a parking space. When in reverse it will sometimes completely die and I'll have to restart it.

I was taking it to the dealer and then quit. Their last two repairs have been diagnosis of problems that didn't exist and ended up costing me quite a bit of money to fix without ultimately fixing the problem. I continue to fix the car because I am recently divorced and did not want a car payment/new car until I am done with all of the paperwork. I'm still not there yet.

Any ideas on what might be the problem and somethings I should avoid doing to fix it. As a single woman I feel like I have a sign that says "Bilk me out of thousands" every time I walk into a car repair shop.

armtdm · April 2003

I also have a 92, V6 but only 153,000 miles. Sounds like one of two things, ignition and or fuel. I vote for wires (Toyota wires by the way, there is a diff and aftermarket wires for Toyota really stink) and plugs if they have not been replaced in the last 60,000 miles. Fuel, well, could be injectors etc. As a shot you may try two bottles of Chevron Techron in the tank and hope that works. Unfortunately, this is something that dealers are best at diagnosing, routine repairs yea, an independent all the way. Unknown illnesses, you need a specialist.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2003

I'm gonna guess injectors are worn out or very dirty at this mileage, and they give a bad spray pattern at low speeds.

Spark plugs wires, if they leak, will continue to leak at low or high speed, so I'm thinking maybe not that.

I'd try some very strong injector cleaner, something commercial if you can get it (any recommendations, guys? Not that wimpy stuff either!).

dafracks · April 2003

Well I bit the bullet and took it to an independent mechanic. They ended up replacing the igniter after changing the wires and it still ran rough. It now runs like a champ. The injectors were still good. Expensive trip but the car now runs as it should. I'd never even heard of an igniter - but after this many miles I am sure things that don't normally go out on a car, go out.

andre1969 · April 2003

I'm guessing that's like an ignition coil on an older car?

Mr_Shiftright · April 2003

Oh, well, I lose but he got it fixed---great!

Actually my guess would only have cost you $15 and might have done some good, so I don't feel too malicious in suggesting it.

dafracks · April 2003

I had taken your suggestion earlier in a last ditch effort to save money. After 2 tanks with the fuel injector cleaner it was steadily going down hill.

I do appreciate the fact that you guys were able to confirm what I should have tried first. I don't feel as bad about spending money if I can rule out what I shouldn't spend it on first.

So thanks for replying! It was a big help.

andre1969 · April 2003

...glad to see your Camry is back up and running. If you don't mind me asking, how much did that igniter thingie cost to replace?

andre1969 · April 2003

...I searched on the 'net to find out if I could find any info on what an igniter is, exactly. I found a post by someone who had their ignition coil *and* igniter replaced so I'm guessing an igniter is something different from what I thought it was. Does the igniter replace the distributor, maybe? I know most modern cars don't have distributors anymore.

armtdm · April 2003

I also have never ever heard of an igniter. Sounds like a British name for something we call by another name!

df2000 · April 2003

Igniter unit is a little electronic box,sometimes
located inside a distributor. Not cheap,I know new
from Honda for my Accord $190.It also send engine
speed(rpm) to tachometer if you have one.

nippononly · April 2003

used to all have igniters. If they go funky the engine runs badly, apart from that I know little about it (black box to me). It looks like a metal cigar, and sits on the top of the wheel well in the engine bay right next to the coil in my old celica, where I replaced it a long time ago.
Toyota charges unbelievable amounts of $$ for them, like $200, but I got one from a junk yard for $10.

gsleve · April 2003

to as an ignition module this term igniter usually referenced when it comes to german cars or swedish, my first encounter and thereafter was in a volkswagen jetta noteworthy was that the same part the igniter was also used in a saab 900 both car's implemented the bosch ignition system yet the price for this component in the saab was 4x times higher in price

andre1969 · April 2003

...I think on Chryslers it's referred to as an ECU (Electronic Control Unit?). It's a little box that's about 4x4x1 that's bolted to the firewall, and has a plug with about 4-5 prongs stuck to it.

At least that's how it was on both of my '79 Chryslers (yes, I was masochistic enough to put myself through TWO of that year!) and my '89...I'm sure they've moved on to something more advanced, now.

mralan · November 2003

Just to change the subject to something a little lighter.

Didn't Al Bundy have a Dodge that went 1M miles?

Making my Camry go 1,000,000 miles

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