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Topside or using an evaculator like a Pella or a Mity Vac, in my case will take app 12-15 min from oil and suction of the oil cartridge holder, to pouring the new oil in either the oil cap opening and or oil cartridge.
It is impossible for the "sensor" to freeze, it is simply 2 metal 'probes' that stick down into the resivoour bottle. If the fluid does not touch them, the indicator light will BLINK.
Add a splash of G12 antifreeze to the system and it will be OK. (NEVER use anything but G12) Any good VW/Audi dealership would add a splash of fluid for no charge.
Also, check for "coolant migration problem" while under the hood.
Did you look at the clear fuel hose between the fuel-filter and the engine? Does it have any fuel in it?
Immediatey add some (more) diesel-fuel antigell.
I wonder when you last changed the fuel filter?
By the way, I posted earlier that I needed new tires. I just got a set of Yokohama Avid T4's, and my first drive on them seems to show that they are as quiet as the original Michelins. I think the handling is "perhaps" a little less gripping than the Mich's, but I really need to try these out in the spring (it's -8 here), to get a better feel for them. All in all, after a day of driving on them, I'm fairly happy, particularly since they were half the price ($309), out the door.
Thanks again for everyone's input on this and other questions. I certainly appreciate it!
Jason
TDIBOB
As for VW - the recognize the design flaw but refuse to do anything about it. I know the EPA and other Gov't agencies are beginning to look into this and my pictures/recpt's are heading there way of more evidence but more recpt's/pict's may help..
Let me know if you know where the workaround is. If I do need to de-carbonize every 50K, the cost savings for diesel is gone and VW has some shoddy workmanship...
I would think an independant mechanic could do this service substantially cheaper. Someone did one at my house one day in a couple hours, a good part of which was soaking the parts and have a beverage. VW dealers are too expensive to bother with and don't bring much to the table in the way of service. Nothing other brands aren't guilty of, but VW's rates are higher, so it makes it even less attractive.
It is the CR@PPY diesel fuel in North America that is the main cause. (better diesel is supposed to be available by 2006) In NA, most of the crude is made into GASOLINE, only the lefrover cr@p is diesel.
When fed with quality diesel, the TDI can go well over 200K miles with no intake plugging.
Also, not using the correct engine oil can contribute to cloging. Additionally, not cleaning the "snowscreen" may speed the clogging process.
I have never heard of your suggested method of somehow draining some kind of "excess oil on the ground". Please explain to us where this "excess oil" is to be found? (it sounds like snake oil to me ;-)
The ONLY way to properly clean a gummed-up intake manifold is to REMOVE IT FROM THE VEHICLE. Any attempt to clean in while installed on the engine is asking for serious engine damage. $600 is outrageous and you can do a lot better than that if you do some research on the internet.
There are also things you can do to help PREVENT the intake clogging. (I did to my TDI with 1000 miles on it.)
As for your MAF, that is a totally seperate issue. Have you perfomed the simple test to see if your MAF may be bad?
If you REALLY need a new MAF, you can get one online and install yourself. (very easy to
install with a screwdriver)
BTW: Your "cost-savings" will come back in the summer. Diesel prices ALWAYS go up in the winter because diesel is used to heat homes. (under the name of "heating oil")
As for #2 fuel - I am not familiar with the differences - is #1 better? I buy my fuel from a truck stop typically and both are available. I was not aware of the snow screen cleaning - I will look into it (Any good book recommendation on the TDI?) I am a fairly capable mechanic (Old gear head) and most tasks come easy, the computerization will get me though due to costs.
As for a design flaw - I disagree, I am a mechanical engineer and there are quite a few ways to dispense of the excess oil without intentionally clogging the intake (E.g. excess filters, drains, etc, etc.) It is VW's responsibility to inform each consumer of this flaw prior to purchase - this is pure negligence on their part. On my high performance equipment, I have always been instructed of minimum standards for fuel, oil etc... and the repercussions of not sticking to it - VW did not do this.
As for the draining the oil - the dealer explained that I could plug the port into the intake and put a tube in place from the EGR (I think) to drain the extra on the ground. Of course I do not like this because of environmental concerns and I am sure it will break some law here.
IT almost seems like making the computer adjustments from the VAC software may be best but I am very open to other alternatives.
<What specifically are you speaking of?>
As for your MAF, that is a totally seperate issue. Have you perfomed the simple test to see if your MAF may be bad? "
<What simple test? I had mine replaced under warranty, otherwise, I can buy them directly from Bosh for ~$15.00 (in the trade). VW just reduced the cost of them from over $500 to $75. so that should help most.>
I now know what you are refering to "about putting a tube in place". This is commonly known as the "Elephant hose mod". I agree that it is not the best way to alleviate intake plugging. (It tends to make your TDI stinky because of the fumes it eminates)
An alternative to the "Elephant hose mod" is to fasion an oil-seperator that goes in between the cam-cover and the intake plenum. Many folks have built up different variations on this theme using PVC and a bronze scrubbie which allows the oil to seperate from the airstream.
Since there are volumes of information online about TDI intake clogging and how it can be reduced or eliminated, I will not re-hash it here. Basically, if you reduce the EGR gasses or oil in the intake, the intake will not clog.
Do some research on "CCV" (Crank Case Ventalation) and you should find a weeks worth of reading.
The intent with all of these CCV efforts is to reduce the "suckage" of crankcase oil into the intake tract. (which then combines with the impurities of the fuel via the EGR and accumulates on the intake)
Check out these videos about various TDI issues. You will find that the "snowscreen" is relatively easy to remove and clean.
http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/
I wish you a swift recovery 8-)
I couldn't be happier with the car even with the $65 oil changes.
I will look into both options and report back a solution for me ( I have a couple of other buddies with the same issue so we will probably do a combination and report back results - thanks)
Do you know what the difference on #1 & #2 fuel is?? Is #2 more oil than fuel?
BP/Amoco sells "diesel supreme" that I try to run, but it's hard to find and usually you have to call the fuel depot to find out IF and where it's available. Many stations have "supreme" or "premium" on their pumps, but there's no legal standard for these fuels and many times it's just plain rot-guy #2. Most stations are independents and can buy fuel from anywhere, even if the sign says "bp", "sunoco" etc. That's why researching through a fuel depot is the only reliable way to find high quality diesel.
Sometime in 2006, the sulphur level in diesel fuel has to be reduced to 15ppm sulphur. Whether or not that will result in a true premium diesel (like the BP Supreme) is unknown, but having 20X less sulphur has to be an improvement!
When I run BP Diesel Supreme, my TDI is obviously quieter, a bit stronger, NEVER smokes (even on cold starts) and the mpg doesn't change that I can measure.
If you can't find premium diesel, I'd recommend at least running an additive. Powerservice (white bottle at wal-mart, etc.) has a cetane booster and helps prevent gelling. 4oz per fillup helps, but I don't notice a performance difference. I mainly do it to make SURE the fuel is treated for cold. It never seems to fail that somewhere a station forgets to treat the fuel and cars/trucks are gelling up.
Let me explain another way.
When gasoline engines started coming thru with catalytic-converters installed. (Early 1970's) The cats would "plug up" all the time. This was because most gas pumps still delivered REGULAR GASOLINE (with lead in it) Since this gas was about 60 cents a gallon, most folks pumped that into their tank. (Unleaded fuel cost more)
Only after the fuel suppliers were able to get more UNLEADED GASOLINE into the delivery structure and the nozzle-size was modified so you could not plysically put the leaded fuel into the tank... then the cats stopped getting plugged-up.
With the VW TDI engine with the "cooled EGR" the situation is simular. The required fuel for the TDI is not readilly available in North America. It is not a matter of #1, #2,#3,#4... etc. (There is no question you want to run #2 diesel in TDI.)
There is a Federally-mandated date by which all road-diesel will be ELSD... I am eagerly awaiting that date.
Some folks run BIO DIESEL fuel which virtually ELIMINATES the intake gunk. BD is hard to find and pricey. You often have to buy it by the drum and dispense it into your TDI on your own. (Some folks find this cumbersome and somewhat inconvienent.)
Yes, these engines were not made to run on the crud we sell as diesel in this country. Yes, this problem should finally be solved around 12-18 months from now, depending on where you live and buy your fuel.
As you have pointed out, is that in speaking with a very knowledgeable repair guy, another irony is of the engines that he has torn apart for one reason or another, ones that have been run on CA specified #2 diesel show the least wear and tear overall vs 49 states #2 diesel.
You have been more than helpful and I truly appreciate it. You are obviously very passionate about VW - I also like them very much and plan to keep this vehicle (Although it has beena hard switch from Volvo- (both dealer and manufacturer attitude). However, the business practice of not telling prospective buyers of this very serious potential repair bill borders on negligence on VW's part or down right deception - especially when you ask the dealers about such repairs (I did).
My plans are to buy the vag-com software and make the changes along with alternate other modifications and be happy after that (I will add my name to the list of people who can share it). It is not the repair bill I am ticked about, it is the feeling that I was deceived by the manufacturer that I am annoyed with. Heck, the service writers at VW are the ones who turned me onto the snorkel arrangement but said they cannot talk about it (Or other software mod's) - Let's be realistic.
As for the EPA, yes I agree, they imposed this on VW and in 2 years we will all see better results.
Thanks again for all the help - you have been fantastic
ON the other end, his messing aorund with the EGR. (shhh..don't tell anyone). I have no idea of the before/after NOx emissions by doing the EGR mod (diesels aren't tested for emission in NJ)
"...
This will prevent/slow down the intake manifold clogging problem and reduce smoke.
Though the MAF at idle is still within specifications (370 mg/h) do not use this adaptation on the road :-)
Again, this EGR setting is for off-road use only !!! "
First, I do like Toyo's!! I have the Toyo Proxes T1S's. They give up some dry grip for my application to the GY's but overall a most excellent tire, and certainly a great bang for the buck! The price against its competitors, GY Eagle F1's SC, and Michelin Pilot Sports, BFG's and or PS2 is literally 100's of dollars cheaper.
The Toyo Proxes T1S's might be total overkill, but the Toyo TPT's seem to be pretty trick for our TDI's. However, the above prices savings might not convert to the TDI sized TPT's. Against a BFG Traction T/A (Michelin owned) the price is almost the same.
The second issue in these neck of the woods is there are very few dealers. Knowing that, they do not tend to come much off their prices.
I has similar problem with 1978 VW Diesel Rabbit.
For me, my VW is just the opposite that you describe; it has been, by far, the most high-quality car I've ever owned. And I get 52 MPG.
What's up with your posts?
Jason
It is said that an automatic will average out at 5-7 MPG less than the manual.
If you, like most folks, are considering a TDI because of the MPG, an automatic simply does not make much sense.
This might be unrelated to VW TDI's but almost EVERY one that I have talked to with a American Diesel has said the automatic transmission have not lasted anywhere near 200,000 miles. It is almost as if there is not a well engineered automatic transmission that can be mated to an American Diesel.
However, Chebby has an ALLISON AUTOMATIC which is the best automatic transmission in the world. ALLISONS have been known to go over million miles in busses. I beleive ALLISON is also used in milatary tanks and earth-moving equipment.