Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I cannot beleive that any VW dearlership would add somthing else to the oil that flys against the manufacturer reccommendations. (The owners manual says do not add anything to the oil)
You have learned a lesson here, you shoud TELL THEM SPECIFICALLY WHAT YOU WANT THEM TO DO. Never-- EVER just say somthing like "Do a 10,000 mile service" -- you are asking for confustion and extra bills. Doing it that way, many dealerships will add in extra stuff that is NOT EVEN REQUIRED to meet the manufacturers warantee.
Of course, this means that one has to READ AND UNDERSTASND the owners manual pertaining to what mimimum things need to be done to meet warantee requirements.... then specify those items to the service advisor.
I did specifically ask for the 10K service, and said "synthetic oil change, tires rotated, and drain H2O seperator."
As for the oil treatment, it was no extra cost but you are correct. they say in the manual not to add anything extra.
Thanks for the reply.
Seems it would be alot more fun than the automatic. Checkedout the Beetle and Jetta at the dealer yesterday and even the sales manager was trying to tell me I meant the Tiptronic transmission as the only transmission that gave you the option of not requiring shifting.
Thanks, Rob.
No. The manual transmission is still clutch and foot. The DSG is offered as the automatic option. Dealers are often confused because the option list still uses the term "Tiptronic" when referring to those cars with the DSG as the automatic [the new TDI Jetta, for example]. And the gasoline Jettas do get a torque converter automatic 6 spd that is a conventional Tiptronic - thus the confusion. Pay careful attention to what the website says, and it seems clear to me - but dealer people are so often NOT car people - they just push the metal, and have precious little concern about the technical details.
DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox) transmission is a breakthrough in passenger car transmissions because it perfectly stresses the advantages and simultaneously reduces the inherited imperfections of manual and standard automatic transmission. DSG is a transmission that allows quick and precise gear changing; it has a favourable efficiency coefficient, i.e. has only a small influence on consumption and provides great comfort and convenience.
DSG can be described as a mechanism consisting of two standard transmissions - it has two clutches joined by two input shafts. One section of the transmission is used for uneven numbered gear changes and reverse and the other for even numbered gear changes.
http://www.germancarfans.com/news.cfm/newsid/2040413.023/page/9/lang/eng/skoda/1.html
While a conventional gearbox works with one clutch, the DSG transmission has two – one in gear, while the second has the next gear preselected. When the gears need to shift, the second clutch takes the load, while the first preselects the next gear. The whole process takes no more than three to four hundredths of a second – faster than the blink of an eye!
DSG transmissions also have a ‘tiptronic’ function, allowing gears to be manually selected. Tiptronic changes have a more ‘sporty’ feel.
There are several benefits of the system. These include improved acceleration and refined uninterrupted driving. DSG is the first of its kind to feature in a production car, demonstrating Volkswagen Group’s ongoing commitment to developing remarkable technology.
http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/new_cars/technology_glossary/DSG
...I have just realized that VW is just importing the lower HP version of their 1.9L and 2.0L TDI (around 100hp)! Why don't they import the 130, 150 (1.9L) and 140hp version (2.0L) of those engines. Emission standards ?
Because there is a HUGE difference between the 100-115hp versions and the 130-140-150hp versions. The first ones are quiet....the second ones are pure FURRY. You wouldn't believe it's the same block! The difference is the same between the Audi V6tdi 155-163hp and the 180hp version of the same engine.
My dad (in France) has a Golf IV TDI 130hp, 6 speed (MatchII, latest version) upgraded with a german chip (inexpensive, 70euros for the injector-pump version, more for the older version, easy to install, great stuff) that gives more punch (more torque than power) when driving on the 5th or 6th. It's almost like driving a BMW330D or a A4180TDI: you are cruising at 60mph on the highway, you push the throttle down and handfull of seconds after you are at 120mph...still on the same gear
It's like being pushed by a huge catapult that seems to keep pushing for ever...only a diesel engine can do that (unless you have a gas engine that goes up to 9000rpm and more: M5, S2000, Modena,etc... but the price isn't the same ). Anyway, just to tell that the 130-150hp versions by far the best versions : brutal, sharp I like those engines. What's more, you have got better mileage with the 130-150hp versions than the 100-115hp versions (between 5 and 5.5 liters/100km on highway). No, there is no mistake...
I drove the new Passat 2.0L TDI, the engine is basically the same as the 1.9L version but not as brutal as the 1.9L, they changed that because many people complained about that. Surprisingly, the new engine is more noisy
But it's a great car, for sure a best-seller in Europe. They announce a 170hp version of the 2.0L engine. Toyota has just launched a 170hp-180hp version of its 4 cylinder diesel engine on the Avensis. Round one, fight!
For the timing belt, it's every 80000 km but the dealership advised my dad to do it before reaching 80K...
For a VW TDI (injector-pump), I would use only two types of oil: those that meet the VW505.01 standard (classic) and those that meet the VW 506.01 standard(long life program). I wouldn't use anything else. The top is the Longlife. It's more expensive but you can make double mileage (I mean kilometres) before changing oil. You just have to wait until the car tells you to go to the dealership to change oil. Nice!
What kind of 2.5L ? I think my dad's car is very close, in terms of performance, to the A4 V6TDI 163hp, the VW has less power but the Audi is heavier... not exactly the same but it's very close. At least you can follow them
Once you reach 60-65 mph, you don't need to change gears on the highway. But I like to play with the lever so I used to downshift to the 5th gear to have more punch. The gearboxes on VW cars (and Audi and BMW) are just pure delight: short lever, smooth shift...
....which is also the answer to the question of why we don't get the more sophisticated versions of the diesel in our market. We have to get the junk that is currently being sold as diesel in this country cleaned up. It will start happening with the new rules for low-sulfur diesel starting next year.
This is a Golf IV Match II. The latest version of the Golf IV. My dad's car is the same with a roof spoiler...
I live in Canada. Do you know Ultra Low Sulfur diesel will be in Canada too in a year? I mean there are many Canadian truckers driving in the U.S. It makes a lot of sense for the Canadian gov't to follow its southern neighor.
Also does diesel additive help the intake clog problem?
This sounds so odd to me I can hardly believe it. I could see this maybe happening with an automatic tranny, but a manual?
Can any Jetta TDI manual owners clear this up for me?
When this happened again recently (with about 60000 miles on the car), the dealer told me that I would need to replace the accelerator position sensor, the diesel pump and some other sensor!!! With the price of replacing the diesel pump alone running to 1500 dollars, I was hesitant. However, while driving it around with the check-engine-light on, the car would suddenly stall at speed (40 mph). I took it to a private garage and they were much more cautious about where the problem lies. They suspected that the ECU was bad, so that got replaced. When the stalling problem persisted, they replace the MAF sensor, which increased the power tremendously. The car has continued to stall out, though, and the most recent fix they've tried is replacing the EGR valve (which was almost completely clogged).
I've read online about the carbon build-up in the EGR and intake manifold. Could this really have been the cause of the car stalling at speed (since it's not an electronic part)? Has anyone been able to get VW to rectify this for free? What about the other problems I'm having with my transmission lockup? Any suggestion? I'm at my wit's end (and the money's pretty low, too).
I completed the oil change no problem; however, I am not sure how to empty the fuel/water separator. Can anyone guide me on how to do this? Here's a couple of questions -
1) Is the fuel/water separator located on the right side of the engine next to the oil filter housing?
2) If it is, is it a black canister with 4 hoses connected to the top of it?
3) On the bottom, I see a white plastic wheel that looks like it can be turned.
4) If this is it, it looks like the canister is held on to a metal arm with some type of torx screw. Does anybody know the size and will it fit on to a ratchet?
5) Should I take the screw off to lift the canister to turn the plastic wheel?
6) Will diesel fuel come out of the canister if I turn the wheel?
I appreciate all who answer. Thanks in advance.
That being said, I wouldn't bother with this task unless you have some reason to believe you've gotten some contaminated fuel. It's basically rare to ever have any water collect in the filter so most TDI's owners don't even bother with this. The fuel filter needs replaced every 20k miles which seems to be more than adequate. Which reminds me, I'm about 10k miles overdue on the fuel filter....
If your INTAKE manifold is slobbered up, it has nothing to do with lousy diesel fuel.
VW has a problem in how to deal with crankcase fumes and EGR setup.
On the older 1.9 engine, they dumped both into the suction side of the turbo and that makes a huge mess.
While they quit dumping the EGR into the suction side on the PDI engine (Passat at least) they do dump the crankcase fumes into the suction side of the turbo on the 2.0 Passat TDI.
This spreads oil into the system, and will create the clouds of smoke.
There is a solution for separating out the oil from the vapors, apparently VW went cheap on how to deal with it.
Not sure how many do it, may be part of emissions control not working quite right with the mapping, but......
Something to look for, you have to pull all the plastic foo foo off the engine to see it.
I work on diesel generators and fire pumps, so I have a good working knowledge and experience with the causes.
I was surprised to find that it does not appear to be a leaking turbo charger seal (though it certainly could be on either side of the turbo)
What I have found is they took the crank case breather tube, and ran it into the suction side of the Turbo Charger.
There is NO device to separate the oil out of the vapor, so it gets sucked in (and worse, a high vacuum sucking the fumes out of the engine, not a mild vent like a gasoline engine does, with the PCV to restrict it).
I have found about ¼ cup in the various nooks and serrations in the turbo charger intake tubing (a lot at the bottom tube into the inter-cooler).
VW claims this is normal. It is only normal if you have a poor design that is going to ensure its going to happe, normal is a total cop out.
There are devices (and I have installed them on my work engines) that separate the oil out of the vapor, and pass on clean air into the suction side of the turbo (you can either drain the canister, or it can be plumbed into the crank case for the oil that separated out.
I would urge anyone who has this problem to file a complaint with not only the dealer, but contact VW and get a case number.
That is the only way this is going to get corrected. It is in no way “normal” for a brand new vehicle, diesel of otherwise, to emit large clouds of smoke under any conditions (see note). We have spent literally hundreds of billions to clean up our air, and this is not acceptable.
Note: If you have poor diesel, that can cause smoke under acceleration, but it should still be fairly mild, not huge clouds, and not ever when backed off the throttle.
Thanks,
Annie
given the symptoms you describe, i think your airbag system has had a failure independent of your passenger with the pet crate. possibly an autozone trouble-code reader could read the error code, but for an airbag failure i think a visit to a vw dealer is well advised, or some other expert vw mechanics! cheers...
New to this forum. I am unable to find a useful manual for my 2004 TDI Jetta so I was wondering if one of you could give me some details on performing and oil change for this, essentially where the filter is, etc... for this car. My old Honda manuals were great for this but the VW ones remind me of Microsoft manuals. By the way, we have about 11k miles split evenly between highway and town and average about 44MPG.
In fact, the entire oil-change can be done from under the hood without even getting under the vehicle. Many folks with TDIs use an oil-change-sucker to pull the oil from the engine thru the dipstick-tube.
Dont forget that your 2004 TDI requires very special oil. Anything less than the specified oil can ruin the camshaft lobes.
Before I bought a new one, I decided to do some searching and reading here. Seems like this could be a problem with bad glow plugs, relay, wiring connections or possibly heartbreak of psoriasis...
I'm more confused now than before. Anyone have any suggestions on what that fault code really means?
Thanks,
es
VW New Beetle diesel
VW Golf diesel
Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel)
Please respond with your name and contact info to jhelperin@edmunds.com by Monday, August 22.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
I was told I would have to pay for the repair by Rod East VW. I also inquired to VW of America. I was told although rare this has happened before but VW will not help me pay the $854.00 repair bill to replace the condenser. My car is still under warranty.
The Beetles have a protective grill but the Golf does not. Does VW care more about Beetle owners than Golf owners?
I was also told by Rod East, that I could have chosen to install my own custom grill on my new car....ridiculous!
Thank you for any help in resolving this issue. VW of America will not consider covering this under warranty or even to reduce the huge cost.
Please help put me in touch with someone that will get the attention of VW customer service
Thank you
anyway, feces happens, that's what i'm sayin. stuff like this:
i bought my GTO on a friday at 6pm and it got rearended monday at 9AM.
my passat TDI got a nasty windshield chip during the first week - just below the primary "line of sight" , and 2 days ago i discovered the outer glass of the right fog light had also gotten smashed. i wouldn't care, since i think fog lights are useless. but it's dangerous - it would cut a kids hand if a kid touched it - so i've gotta get it fixed. and this car has only seen a few months of spring/summer driving. in winter it will be worse - some of the local towns put down really coarse sand on the roads - including lots of little pebbles. anyway, enough about my cars.
you might not know that the situation you describe would be covered by your auto insurance policy in most cases. probably the collision portion of your policy, but who knows, maybe it would go under "comprehensive". not sure. so what sort of deductible do you have - and can you find out what is the likelihood that your rates will get bumped if you file a claim for this? my preference is to have a big deductible and to avoid making 'smaller' claims. i understand that making multiple small claims is a sure way to get the insurance company to raise rates. but for just one small claim i bet they wouldn't raise rates.
Same thing happened to my '91 Acura Legend just this spring. Not only did I need some new parts from the damage, the whole unit had to be reconditioned to use the new refrigerant. Insurance paid the whole thing.
If you are at fault in a liability or collision claim, it can raise your rates. But this is different. Check with your agent, many insurers do not surcharge for OTC claims.
Cracked windshields are likewise covered as OTC. Many insurers will also cover your deductible if you agree to have the W/S repaired instead of replaced.
Any thoughts on what might be causing this ?? :confuse:
Could be several things. It REALLY neeeds to be hooked to a laptop and drive it while monitoring it.
I suspect your IQ (Injection Quality) may be set incorrecttly... but on a new engine that is not even broken in yet.... it may be sensor such as MAF or engine temp. Perhaps even the fuel injection timing is incorrect.
I've tried 3 different fuel sources (that's all I have available) -- all smoke. Oh, and I should have mentioned it smells even at idle.
Supposedly they checked all the sensors etc on round #1!
You're comment about engine temp is interesting as I notice that the smoking tendency is worse after ~ 1 hr of running. Last weekend, I met my brother, after having run ~ an hr and even at idle we could blip the throttle and get it to smoke
Any chance this is related to the exhaust gas recirculating process ?
if it wasn't for the ability to lay down a smoke cloud, i'd have no defense against tailgators!
my 2003 tdi jetta smoked way more than my 2005 tdi passat. different technology, but the passat will smoke if i run it easy for a while and then stand on it.