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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • keithwinskeithwins Member Posts: 4
    Hi there, I just posted this to another forum here, but since I hope/need to get some help TONIGHT so I can get this car running tomorrow morning, I'm posting here too. Sorry for the duplication.

    I recently bought a '96 VW tdi on ebay, and have been running it on biodiesel for a few weeks. It was never clear that I needed to replace the filter, though it seemed like it might have been losing power, so I bought one but didn't put it in. Today I drove it WAAYYYYY up into the mountains of West Virginia (I am building a house up here, I'm a builder), and it died on me. Stopped running, and when I cranked it it didn't even catch. I swapped out the filter (filled with biodiesel first), and now it catches, but won't run more than a few seconds. It SEEMS like the longer I wait between starts, the more likely it is to run as long as 4-5 seconds.

    I looked underneath, since I was concerned I might have crushed a fuel line on a rock or something (I'm 2 miles into the woods on a very very bad road), but I don't see a problem (it seems to have a blue plastic fuel line, unless I'm missing something).

    I am concerned that since it's pretty cold up here (around freezing) the fuel might have iced up. It's going to get a lot colder tonight. Fortunately, the person for whom I'm building the house has a cabin, which I'm in now, and I can get on the internet. I will go out tomorrow morning and try to get it running: if anyone has any ideas, I would be SO GRATEFUL. The best I can think of is to try to get a big heater and heat up the engine/fuel. The other thing that comes to mind is that I have to do something after changing the fuel filter: repressurize the system or something. I'll try to search for info on that.

    Anyway, thanks for any help anyone can offer. I'll check for responses in a few hours, or maybe in the morning.

    Keith

    PS: this is not a joke. You can see my web site (which stinks, but hey...) at earthsunenergy dott comm. I really could use any help you can offer! Thanks so much.
  • shaolingolfershaolingolfer Member Posts: 28
    If you start using biodiesel in an old car, it will start cleaning up the old mess in your tank and start clogging up your filter. I guess what you can do right now is put some diesel additive in it to prevent it from gelling. I also heard that you can put some additive in your fuel filter befroe you reinstall it. Good luck.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hi... not that i've ever had the good fortune to try biodiesel in either of my TDIs but i understand that biodiesel gels much worse than dinosaur diesel in general. and either can be treated with additives to avoid gelling. the big oil companies have the additive percentage down to a science depending on latitude/month where the fuel is sold. maybe the biodiesel producers are not quite as scientific/efficient/versatile about how much additive to use?
  • keithwinskeithwins Member Posts: 4
    I forgot to mention, since I'm at a construction site, I had 3 gallons of diesel (for a bulldozer) that I added to the 9 gallons of biodiesel in the tank. But that was after I had problems, and I didn't think to empty out the filter and add that, though I might have some more and I might do that. I'm going to try pouring hot water on the injection pump and filter (covering them first with plastic wrap to avoid moisture problems), I think, this morning to see if that will warm them up enough. Right now, the car is in a terrible location, way up in the woods, and it's supposed to rain and snow here in the next couple days, so I have to get this out today, period. I might have use of a tractor to at least pull it down to the road. Anyway, thanks for your thinking so far, I know all about the gelling issue (not that I'd added anything to my biodiesel!).
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    I buy my Biodiesel at a Shell station on the NH/VT border. They have one pump for B-20 and 3 more for "Premium" Dinodiesel. The diesel filling stations are out back, and they must have a dozen gasoline pumps in the front. Needless to say it gives the impression that they sell in high volumes, and therefore an assurance that they have fresh fuel that is properly mixed for the climate.

    Lately, they have been posting signs on the dinodiesel pumps. In October, the small magnetic sign read "80/20 blend". I asked the clerks what that meant but they just shrugged. I thought that meant that the station, which has been a big biodiesel promoter with plenty of local press, had decided to just sell B-20 (20% biodiesel and 80% dinodiesel) in all of their pumps. Anyway, I bought the B-20 and drove on. In November, I noticed the signs have been switched to read "70/30 blend" on the dinodiesel pumps, so I asked the 2 clerks again. They just shrugged, but this time called "Fred" out of the back room.

    Turns out that Fred is the sign guy and knows all about the fuel. He said the blend on the dinodiesel pumps is 70% dinodiesel and 30% kerosene which is added to prevent gelling. Normally it is in a higher ratio (like 80/20 or even 90/10) but with cold weather coming they have made adjustments to the ratio. He said it can go as low as 60/40 (he has a sign ready to post) as the cold of winter sets in.

    I asked about the B-20 and he said it is 20% biodiesel blended with the current mix of dinodiesel. In this case, I bought 20% biodiesel blended with 80% dinodiesel (which was actually 70% dino and 30% kerosene). This makes the fuel blend to be 20% biodiesel, 56% dinodiesel and 24% kerosene. I still added the proper amount of PowerService in the white bottle to to make sure I was treated properly (I have never gelled, and i don't want to start on a long trip).

    So, I learned something new from Fred about fuel blends. And this station seems to go above and beyond to tell the customer exactly what they are buying (and at $2.70/ gal, they really should be that kind of clear!). I hope this helps in understanding biodiesle, but know it won't help the guy in WV start his car this morning (sorry).
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    AMSOIL , WWW.AMSOIL.COM HAS FINALLY RELEASED AN OIL FOR THE VW DIESEL.IT MEETS VW501.01,502.00,505.OO SPECS.
    AMSOIL IS PROBABLY THE BEST SYNTHETIC OIL ON THE MARKET AND SOME OF THE BEST ADDITIVES FOR DIESEL.IF YOU WANT PRODUCTS THAT REALLY WORK,CHECK INTO THE AMSOIL SITE AND MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION.
    THE OIL, 5-40 EUROPEAN SYNTHETIC FOR DIESELS MAY BE COSTLY BUT WITH THE EXTENDED DRAIN INTERVALS,10-15,000 MILES WITH A FILTER CHANGE IN-BETWEEN,FOR WHAT IT DOES,ITS WORTH IT.
    THIS IS ONE PERSONS OPINION, DECIDE FOR YOURSELF .
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    AMSOIL IS PROBABLY THE BEST SYNTHETIC OIL ON THE MARKET AND SOME OF THE BEST ADDITIVES FOR DIESEL.IF YOU WANT PRODUCTS THAT REALLY WORK,CHECK INTO THE AMSOIL SITE AND MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION.

    What testing or data did you use to form your opinion?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    In the case of the TDI (actually gasser also) 10,000 mile OCI's are not considered "extended" drain. In fact it is considered "normal" : i.e., scheduled maintenance with NO filter change in between. Oem, Mann and Mahle filters are specified for 30,000 mile OCI's.

    Since I use a VW 505.00 (pre PD requirements) I use Mobil One Truck & Suv aka Delvac One 5w40 with 25,000 mile OCI's.

    I would agree that Amsoil almost uniformly over their product line makes great products. One question that is/was particular importance to me is the Amoil product worth the premium over the off the shelf (available at WALLY Mart for example) Mobil One T & S 5w40.

    One also might want to check the VOA's and UOA's to see the differences between the two products. Truly this is where "the rubber meets the road" so to speak.
  • csmcsm Member Posts: 37
    I am changing oil at 10,000 miles and installing a new Mann filter, and use Delvac One, at each change. Are you suggesting that I can go three changes before replacing the filter?

    And you go 25,000 miles between oil changes? I am reading you correctly? I have never heard of that before, and it seems extreme.

    thanks,

    Charles in Indiana
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    YES. Big HOWEVER, since I do not know your conditions, nor understand how you drive your vehicle in your environment, the safe bet would be to run oil analysis: specifically 10k, 15k, 20k, 25k as sign posts. Most folks who do (UOA's) used oil analysis with the Delvac One 5w40 find 10,000 OCI's EXTREMELY conservative.

    I am also aware that it is not "cost effective" in the sense that an oil analysis can cost 15-50 dollars vs an Delvac One 5w40 oil and filter change at 24 dollars. It is really done for the information and treadline analysis; of which owners/managers of fleets can document if their policies are working and see individual deviations and of course cost control.

    Yes I go 25,000 miles between oil changes. So for example in my application that is app 1 year.
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU CHECK THE AMSOIL SITE AS THEY HAVE RECOMMMENDATIONS ON OIL CHANGE INTERVALS.
    THE WHOLE THING IS TRYING TO GET THE LONGEST LIFE OUT OF YOUR DIESEL ENGINE WITH THE BEST PROTECTION.
    I HAVE USED AMSOIL PRODUCTS IN ALL MY VEHICLES FOR YEARS.
    CARS,MOTORCYCLES,DRAG MOTORCYCLES,PICK UPS.AMSOIL IN ENGINE,TRANSMISSIONS,DIFFERENTALS.I SWARE BY AMSOIL BUT THATS JUST ME.
    THE OEM RECOMMENDATIONS IS 10,000 MILES .
    I CHANGE MY OIL AT 15,000 INTERVALS AND THE FILTER EVERY 5,000 MILES .I USE OEM OIL FILTERS ALTHOUGH AMSOIL OIL FILTERS WOULD BE SUPERIOR .
    I WOULD SAY THAT EACH PERSON WILL COME UP WITH AN INTERVAL OIL CHANGE PROGRAM THAT HE/SHE WILL FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH.
    SOME WILL STAY WITH 10,000 MILES ,SOME MAY GO TO 20,000 MILES,WHO KNOWS.
    I HOPE THIS HELPS
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Thanks for the comments, but it would be most appreciated if you did not use all capital letters. It is very difficult to read and appears as though you are SHOUTING.

    Also, you might be interested in this topic.

    Fuel and Oil Additives
  • scott1951scott1951 Member Posts: 1
    Just wondered if anyone has had this problem with their new 06 Jetta TDI. Has 2400 miles on car, engine would not start at work today, then finally after about 5 attempts, it started and engine symbol on dash came on. I turned car off, checked manual which said engine misfiring, could cause catalytic converter problems. I started the car and attempted to drive it to the dealership. Got about half a mile in traffic and it just died completely and would not start. Called dealer, service manager had not heard of anything like this yet. Car was towed and not sure at this point what the problem is from the dealer.
    Any ideas?
  • keithwinskeithwins Member Posts: 4
    Well, I thought I should post how things turned out.

    After getting towed out of the woods by a friend with a tractor, another neighbor let me use his (big, industrial) garage, where I cranked up the heat to 90 degrees, and spent 4 hours pulling my fuel system apart part by part. In the end, after I'd completely melted and blown out EVERY INCH of my fuel system, I realized there was an enormous resistance to flow through my BRAND NEW fuel filter (the first thing I'd done when I discovered problems was install a new filter I'd been carrying around). Turned out, the new filter came pre-clogged (for those who don't know, I spent nearly $40 for this filter, they are ridiculously expensive since they are a filter/water separator thing). So I swapped back in the old filter, and drove away. And yes, at 25 degrees or so, every inch of the fuel system was gelled.

    I have gotten a large delivery of biodiesel in 50 gallon barrels, and this tankful was the bottom of the first barrel. For anyone who knows about how they "winterize" soy oil, it involves chilling and letting the iced portions settle to the bottom, and decanting the remaining. I suspect I was using the most freeze-susceptible fuel in that barrel, on just the wrong trip.

    Anyway, live and learn. Thanks for people's thoughts and helpful intentions.

    Keith
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    thanks for the followup, keithwins...
    have you heard about the place that does biodiesel tdi conversions in ithaca NY? they add a little tank for dino diesel so you can run off that after winter-coldstart, heat everything up, then run off pure biodiesel/frenchfry-oil. i suppose at the end of the trip you have to throw the switch back to the dino diesel if it is cold, then let it idle for a minute?
  • csmcsm Member Posts: 37
    Wow...that's a long day - just getting back to square one - wasn't it! I was curious to know how you came out, so thanks for the follow-up.
    I am also curious about your comments regarding your new fuel filter; when you say that your new fuel filter came "pre clogged" - you surely don't mean by design do you? How was it clogged? At any rate, what a bummer!
    Oh..and thank God for a freind with a heated garage huh!
  • retiredrobertretiredrobert Member Posts: 2
    We just received a 2004 Jetta TDI from a VW dealership in Chicago, and the wagen has a little over 5000 miles. The car is in Hawaii at about 4,000 feet elevation. It is hard to start when cold, but cold here means 50 to 70 degrees! The engine tries to start on the first attempt with a sputter, but after that it takes about 10 separate attempts at cranking before the engine starts. It seems to start fine once the engine is warm. It also sometimes has an abrupt power loss (for a few seconds, not electrical) while underway when it is newly started, but this seems to diminish in occurance once the car is warm. I suspect a fuel system problem, but would appreciate your input. Thanks!
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    I would recommend the amsoil 5w-40 100% synthetic european car formula. it meets all vw specs.
    amsoil has diesel fuel modifer additive

    go to www.amsoil.com,see what you think.
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    Amsoil now has 5w-40 european car formula 100% synthetic oil. It meets all vw specs.
  • gentgent Member Posts: 1
    hello i have the exact same problem i have changed GP relay 180 and power relay 109 and the temp sensor and no results. when the key is turned to ignition the glow plug light comes on very quickly (for about 1-2 seconds) then goes off- no matter how cold or hot it is. and there is no power to the GP . When the temperature sensor is unplugged, the glow plugs come on for about 15 seconds i also noticed that when the engine is started with temp sensor plugged in i get no power before its started but once its started when i get it to start i get power to GP for approx 60 seconds

    if you have anything new to share i would very much apreciat it thanks
  • retiredrobertretiredrobert Member Posts: 2
    Regarding the hard starting on the TDI Jetta in Hawaii, thanks so much for your answer. I also got a similar answer from an on line technician, who responded to the problem as follows:
    "Have the glow plugs all checked. Classic symptoms of one
    or more burnt out.
    Have your shop pull out the main Relay in the fuse box
    (109) and re install it. Some of them have corrosion on
    them from sitting before installation. Removing cleaning
    the contacts will, many times, cure the "sudden loss in
    power while underway.", syndrome .
    I am going to the VW place on Thursday since the car is in warranty, and I will write back with the verdict. Thanks again for your insightful response. Aloha!
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Member Posts: 24
    Okay, the ol' TDI is at 96K, getting ready for timing belt change. Because I'm a mechanical neandrathal, I am having this work done probably by my local foreign mechanic, who's done work for us for years. Very trustworthy in my mind. Initial estimate is for about $900, but the question is; they say that they need to replace the water pump. That just seems odd to me, but then again, I'm not an expert. Thoughts?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    A water pump wouldn't hurt. It's a preventative maintenance thing because if the pump were to go bad you'd have to do all the same labor again. The pump isn't all that expensive and takes nearly zero extra time while they're changing the belt. Since you won't need another belt until 200k miles....you never know if the current pump will last that long. It's fairly common on most vehicles to consider trading the water pump when doing the timing belt. Particularly now that many vehicles have 100k or more miles between timing belts.

    The problem I see here is with the price. Are they saying $900 including the water pump? A OEM water pump and a timing belt kit is about $300, say $400 max. They're charging you $500 for labor?? That's steep. A good mechanic should be able to do it in 2-3 hours. A bad one in 5 hours. That's still $100/hour for a bad mechanic.

    I'd get a break-down of what they're charging for what. www.worldimpex.com has the OEM parts for around $300 plus shipping. If they're buying from a dealer, they might be paying way too much for the parts. If they're not using OEM parts the price should be significatly less. I don't see how a timing belt/water pump should exceed $700, and that's likely at a dealer.
  • mof1mof1 Member Posts: 6
    Can anyone tell me how their 06 TDI runs in the snow. My husband has a 04 TDI and it is not good, he said he needs to get better tires. I have put a deposit on the 06 TDI but want to make sure about driving in snow - I live in New England and drive back roads to work and have a steep hill for a driveway.
  • eyc51keyc51k Member Posts: 41
    IF you get the ESP, NO absolutely NO problems!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, let's see, where did I put that soapbox? Ahhh, here it is.

    [Soapbox]
    If you live in New England (as I do), and you are faced with challenging terrain, even if said challenge is infrequent, the $300 - $1,200 investment in a set of winter tires (depends upon size, type, capability and whether a second set of wheels is purchased as well) is money well spent. Tires are the single most important component for your car (or any car for that matter) when it comes to how well that car can deal with snow, slush, ice and even cold dry roads), including the option that many folks believe to be the winter driving panacea, namely AWD.
    [/Soabbox]

    Said another way, if you want a TDI, buy a TDI. If you don't like the tires due their poor winter capabilities, spend another $500 or so and buy a set that perform better.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Because of the potential range of cost for winter tires, unfortunately I would agree. It can be a HUGE safety issue. I lived in upstate NY 31 years ago, for two winters and the first winter, I got snow tires and studs. (do what the Romans do was the principle) (they were legal at the time). The 70 VW Beetle drove like the proverbial TANK through some of the worst weather they had had in a while. However, I found the snow tires and studs total overkill. The next winter I didn't even use them and in fact sold them. However, I would NOT recommend that at all. Prior to living in NY, every winter, I would go to mountain snow in the Tahoe/Reno area. I routinely went through chain control in the high sierras (Donner Party Pass fame?) with 3 seasoned tires and a manual shift.

    I am told that winter tires are MUCH improved over the "old days." So putting them on an ESP will probably make winter driving pretty seamless.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I have the Nokian WR's on my TDI and it goes extremely well. They have a snowflake rating but are not a hard-core snow tire. They're far better than a standard all-season plus they still have decent handling and wear, unlike some snow tires. Nice compromise in my book and I can run them a little longer than I would a Blizzak or something similar. I have higher performance tires for summer and then swap over to the Nokians in late fall through early spring. The Nokians are terrific in wet as well.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I can "second" the vote for Nokian WR's. They are the ONLY all-season tires available that have the snowflake emblem. The original Michelens on my Jetta wore out within 40K miles which is totally unacceptable. (Even my 4X4 pickup truck gets 60K miles on a set of tires!!)

    Lets not forget that Nokian is the company that makes the very best snow tires on earth (Hakkapeliitta). Located in Finland, Nokian has an extensive snow-covered test-track to perfect their tire designs.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I have a set of 4 Nokian Hakkapeliitta II snow tires on my 04 Jetta. I don't have ESP and the car handles great in the snow, I live in CT but like to go up skiing in VT so I have done a fair amount of driving in snow. I was just reading an interesting post from another member at TDIclub about another snow tire made in Iceland (the link is http://www.greendiamondtire.com/concept.html). I had a set of Mastercraft Glacier Grip II's on another car and was happy with them also. If you really want to spend some time reading up on how satisfied or dissatisfied people are in general with various snow tires, tirerack.com has extensive posts on what people think of various tires. If you like alloy rims on your car in the winter, you can usually pick up a set at a reasonable price on Ebay (although this isn't the best time of year because a lot of people are looking to do the same thing).
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    Don't worry about trying to get the water out of your fuel filter, the odds are that you aren't going to find any. I have an 04 PD TDI Jetta, the fuel filters on the 04's definitely have a white plastic drain valve on the bottom of the filter to remove any water. Most people never find any. Try to purchase your fuel at places that move a lot of fuel, places that don't move much diesel might get some condensation and water in the tanks. I replaced my stock fuel filter with a Cat 2 micron fuel filter (it doesn't have a water bleed off so before I did it I read up on it to see how much it was needed, my conclusion was that it wasn't). Definitely add the fuel additive to lower your gel point in the winter and boost your cetane rating year round; but I don't think it will help solve intake manifold plugging. I would definitely look into installing a CCV filter. Also, your driving habits can affect your rate of pluggage. The good news is that if you ignore both of those suggestions, when ULSD becomes available (should be this summer), that will probably solve the issues with intake manifold pluggage (people in CA using ULSD, and in Europe, don't have the problem). I work in a powerplant where we burn 500 gpm of #6 oil and was truly amazed at the affect on the ash when you drop the sulfur content of the fuel.
  • mof1mof1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for all the replies. I will get the snow tires.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    If you are going to run straight bio-diesel, I suggest that you do some reading up on it over at tdiclub; there is a lot of experience and expertise on the subject there. The bottom line is that bio gels way sooner than regular diesel. I don't think that I would attempt to run much over a 30% mixture when temps start getting down under 35. Every State has a schedule for each month of the year to what temp their fuel should be treated for not gelling. They mix #1 diesel (kerosene) with #2 to achieve those reduced gel points (often, that still isn't good enough and people still get stuck, so adding an anti-gel sure is good insurance). You will find that you get less MPG with the winter blends of fuel than with the summer fuel. When I can get it, I like to run 20-30% bio in the warmer months.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Almost everyone who I have talked to that has either used or tried bio diesel have experienced less fuel mileage, higher cost and a slight loss of power hp/torque. Some have on occasion have gotten bad batches and experienced some hesitation and water vapor concerns. Blends seem to sidestep the above issues.
  • mof1mof1 Member Posts: 6
    What is ULSD?
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    You really don't want to take chances with ANYTHING that might cause your timing belt to fail after it has been replaced. Not to mention the fact, would you want to do pretty much the entire job over again 10K miles later because the mechanical seal on your water pump started leaking? These engines are interferance engines (unlike most gas engines in the past 10 or 12 years); if that belt breaks the engine will be ruined. I wish that you had posted the year of your car and your location. Tdiclub does have some experts that have done hundreds of TDI timing belts in differant parts of the country, I'm sure that they would do a better job and for less $. A deluxe timing belt kit should include more that just the belt and the water pump; usually the idler pulley and all other pulleys get changed (they have bearings that get sloppy), and I think most models have stretch bolts on motor mounts that have to be changed. If the person doing it does not get the timing right the 1st time, if your lucky the car won't start, if your not you'll have bent rods. Not to scare you, but just to emphasize the importance of everything getting done right the 1st time; I have read a lot of horror story posts about what happened on these cars if the timing belt was not done correctly.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    ULSD= Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel ()

    Most of us TDI ownwers have been waiting YEARS for ULSD to become widely available in USA. The TDI engine was DESIGNED for ULSD. (As used in Europe)

    Unfortunately, due to receint events. (hurricanes - flooding) In an effort to ease pressures on refineries, the President Bush has relaxed the rules that mandated ULSD.

    Here is some more info.
    http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/ulsd.shtml
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    Nokian is not 1 of a kind anymore. The Goodyear Fortera Triple Tread also has the symbol and I've been told the GY Assurance Triple Tread also has it, but I've not seen it personally. I know of no comparison of the 2 so won't comment on that.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I cannot comment on the Nokians, however, since fall of 2002 I've run with Michelin Arctic-Alpins on one car and now have Michelin X-Ice on another. This year though, I have a very different driving profile and as such am driving a different car, this one shod with Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds. First the good, the TripleTreds are easily the most capable All-Season tires I've ever encountered snow with. That having been said, they don't even come close to our two cars with the winter rubber.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    ULSD is Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel. Here in CT. (I think most New England States have the same limit), the limit for sulfur in on-road diesel is 500 ppm. The limit for #2 heating oli used in homes (dyed red) is 3000 ppm. The limit for ULSD will be 15 ppm. Getting the sulfur out of or reduced in my fuel is the main reason that I will try to run a biodiesel blend when its nicer out (bio doesn't have sulfur). The people that are running ULSD don't have the problems with intake manifold pluggage that those of that don't do.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I think with any snow tire, its nice to read up on what owners have said about them. You kind of have to average out the concensus of what people are saying. I was seriously thinking about getting the Blizaks, they are a very popular snow tire. What really turned me against them was the comments regarding their longevity. I guess that Blizak openly states that they use a softer compound for the 1st 50% of tread life, but once you go through that they perform no better than a regular tire. In general, people were very happy with them for the 1st winter, but not after the 2nd winter. Snow tires cost enough where I want them to perform good until I replace them. Just my thoughts on why its worth your time and effort to use the internet to say what people have to say about any tire.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've had Blizzaks on other vehicles and what you say is true. Plus I find them to have just ok handling. Plus if you have a warm day, they don't handle well at all. Very soft compound. Great in the snow/ice though. But, I'll buy the Nokians evertime because IMHO at the point you can't get around with the Nokians on a normal FWD car, you'll be out of ground clearance and won't get around regardless. An AWD car or something that sits a little taller might benefit more from the true-blue snow tires like a Blizzak.
  • tubdubtubdub Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 jetta tdi. 85,000km, My oil is a black, I changed it a few times within 5000k, still black. Now it feels like I have no turbo at all except maybe a bit in first gear. I disconected the MAF, that did nothing. Is it possible the turbo is immobilized by sludge. I know my way around a car alright and would like to avoid paying a real mechanic if possible. Thank you to anyone that can help steer me in the right direction
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You must be new to diesel engines... the oil will be BLACK with soot almost all the time. The color of the engine oil tells NOTHING about its ability to lubricate the engine. Use the correct oil in your TDI and change it every 10,000 miles.

    As for your lack of power... check the intake manifold for plugging. Also check the VNT actuator on the turbocharger to make sure it moves freely.
  • ladydi_87ladydi_87 Member Posts: 6
    Anyone have a 'true' opinion on whether to use Diesel #1 or Diesel #2 in their TDI? Ours is an '05 Jetta wagon. The dealer said use either one, the mechanic at a different VW dealership said #2, a fellow TDI owner said #1 only in the winter, etc., etc., etc. We live in Minnesota, so it can get pretty cold out here. Some stations carry both, others don't give you the option.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    Every State has a schedule for the 12 months of the year and what temperature their roadside diesel should be good to without gelling. They already mix the #1 & #2 to achieve the lower jell points. However, even though that is done, you will still see posts with people having their fuel jell so my suggestion is to be sure to add an anti-jell. The 3 most popular brands are: 1) Stanadyne (the performance formula will also boost your cetane & improve the fuel's lubricity) will lower your gell point to -66 degF (I bought a 5 gallon pail of this on-line at blueridgediesel.com for $129; you use it at a ratio of 1 ounce to 2 gallons so 5 gallons will last a long time). 2) Powerservice White is probably the most popular additive because it is the most available (use the Power service silver in the warmer months, that doesn't have the anti-gel in it). Powerservice is about $12/gallon at Walmart, AutoZone or most other car parts chain stores. 3) A very popular diesel fuel anti-gel sold at many truck stops is Howes diesel treat & anti-jell. If you buy a case (pilot gas stations were selling a case (6 each 1/2 gallon jugs) for $54 the case includes a registration card that you cam mail in and Howe's will pay your tow costs if your fuel jells. Howe's is used in the ratio of 1 ounce to 2 gallons and will protect to -33 degF.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Do not use straight #1 diesel in a TDI engine... it is essentually kerosene and can destroy your fuel pump and injectors due to lack of lubrication.
  • jscottk115jscottk115 Member Posts: 2
    Just came back from Germany and purchased my Jetta TDI in NC. We originally came from NY and thank goodness we did not go back. Among many other reason, you can't purchase a TDI in NY state.

    Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.

    Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.

    I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem. :(
  • jscottk115jscottk115 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, dhould have made this a new post

    Just came back from Germany and purchased my Jetta TDI in NC. We originally came from NY and thank goodness we did not go back. Among many other reason, you can't purchase a TDI in NY state.

    Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.

    Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.

    I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    If this is a brand new car I would suspect bad fuel. Be sure and buy diesel from a busy dealer that sells a lot of diesel. If it sits in the storage tank a long time you get moisture among other things. Or if it is really cold and you are using number 2 diesel there is a chance of gelling. Use one of the many diesel fuel additives to increase cetane and prevent gelling. Good luck with your new TDI.
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