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I recently bought a '96 VW tdi on ebay, and have been running it on biodiesel for a few weeks. It was never clear that I needed to replace the filter, though it seemed like it might have been losing power, so I bought one but didn't put it in. Today I drove it WAAYYYYY up into the mountains of West Virginia (I am building a house up here, I'm a builder), and it died on me. Stopped running, and when I cranked it it didn't even catch. I swapped out the filter (filled with biodiesel first), and now it catches, but won't run more than a few seconds. It SEEMS like the longer I wait between starts, the more likely it is to run as long as 4-5 seconds.
I looked underneath, since I was concerned I might have crushed a fuel line on a rock or something (I'm 2 miles into the woods on a very very bad road), but I don't see a problem (it seems to have a blue plastic fuel line, unless I'm missing something).
I am concerned that since it's pretty cold up here (around freezing) the fuel might have iced up. It's going to get a lot colder tonight. Fortunately, the person for whom I'm building the house has a cabin, which I'm in now, and I can get on the internet. I will go out tomorrow morning and try to get it running: if anyone has any ideas, I would be SO GRATEFUL. The best I can think of is to try to get a big heater and heat up the engine/fuel. The other thing that comes to mind is that I have to do something after changing the fuel filter: repressurize the system or something. I'll try to search for info on that.
Anyway, thanks for any help anyone can offer. I'll check for responses in a few hours, or maybe in the morning.
Keith
PS: this is not a joke. You can see my web site (which stinks, but hey...) at earthsunenergy dott comm. I really could use any help you can offer! Thanks so much.
Lately, they have been posting signs on the dinodiesel pumps. In October, the small magnetic sign read "80/20 blend". I asked the clerks what that meant but they just shrugged. I thought that meant that the station, which has been a big biodiesel promoter with plenty of local press, had decided to just sell B-20 (20% biodiesel and 80% dinodiesel) in all of their pumps. Anyway, I bought the B-20 and drove on. In November, I noticed the signs have been switched to read "70/30 blend" on the dinodiesel pumps, so I asked the 2 clerks again. They just shrugged, but this time called "Fred" out of the back room.
Turns out that Fred is the sign guy and knows all about the fuel. He said the blend on the dinodiesel pumps is 70% dinodiesel and 30% kerosene which is added to prevent gelling. Normally it is in a higher ratio (like 80/20 or even 90/10) but with cold weather coming they have made adjustments to the ratio. He said it can go as low as 60/40 (he has a sign ready to post) as the cold of winter sets in.
I asked about the B-20 and he said it is 20% biodiesel blended with the current mix of dinodiesel. In this case, I bought 20% biodiesel blended with 80% dinodiesel (which was actually 70% dino and 30% kerosene). This makes the fuel blend to be 20% biodiesel, 56% dinodiesel and 24% kerosene. I still added the proper amount of PowerService in the white bottle to to make sure I was treated properly (I have never gelled, and i don't want to start on a long trip).
So, I learned something new from Fred about fuel blends. And this station seems to go above and beyond to tell the customer exactly what they are buying (and at $2.70/ gal, they really should be that kind of clear!). I hope this helps in understanding biodiesle, but know it won't help the guy in WV start his car this morning (sorry).
AMSOIL IS PROBABLY THE BEST SYNTHETIC OIL ON THE MARKET AND SOME OF THE BEST ADDITIVES FOR DIESEL.IF YOU WANT PRODUCTS THAT REALLY WORK,CHECK INTO THE AMSOIL SITE AND MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION.
THE OIL, 5-40 EUROPEAN SYNTHETIC FOR DIESELS MAY BE COSTLY BUT WITH THE EXTENDED DRAIN INTERVALS,10-15,000 MILES WITH A FILTER CHANGE IN-BETWEEN,FOR WHAT IT DOES,ITS WORTH IT.
THIS IS ONE PERSONS OPINION, DECIDE FOR YOURSELF .
What testing or data did you use to form your opinion?
Since I use a VW 505.00 (pre PD requirements) I use Mobil One Truck & Suv aka Delvac One 5w40 with 25,000 mile OCI's.
I would agree that Amsoil almost uniformly over their product line makes great products. One question that is/was particular importance to me is the Amoil product worth the premium over the off the shelf (available at WALLY Mart for example) Mobil One T & S 5w40.
One also might want to check the VOA's and UOA's to see the differences between the two products. Truly this is where "the rubber meets the road" so to speak.
And you go 25,000 miles between oil changes? I am reading you correctly? I have never heard of that before, and it seems extreme.
thanks,
Charles in Indiana
I am also aware that it is not "cost effective" in the sense that an oil analysis can cost 15-50 dollars vs an Delvac One 5w40 oil and filter change at 24 dollars. It is really done for the information and treadline analysis; of which owners/managers of fleets can document if their policies are working and see individual deviations and of course cost control.
Yes I go 25,000 miles between oil changes. So for example in my application that is app 1 year.
THE WHOLE THING IS TRYING TO GET THE LONGEST LIFE OUT OF YOUR DIESEL ENGINE WITH THE BEST PROTECTION.
I HAVE USED AMSOIL PRODUCTS IN ALL MY VEHICLES FOR YEARS.
CARS,MOTORCYCLES,DRAG MOTORCYCLES,PICK UPS.AMSOIL IN ENGINE,TRANSMISSIONS,DIFFERENTALS.I SWARE BY AMSOIL BUT THATS JUST ME.
THE OEM RECOMMENDATIONS IS 10,000 MILES .
I CHANGE MY OIL AT 15,000 INTERVALS AND THE FILTER EVERY 5,000 MILES .I USE OEM OIL FILTERS ALTHOUGH AMSOIL OIL FILTERS WOULD BE SUPERIOR .
I WOULD SAY THAT EACH PERSON WILL COME UP WITH AN INTERVAL OIL CHANGE PROGRAM THAT HE/SHE WILL FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH.
SOME WILL STAY WITH 10,000 MILES ,SOME MAY GO TO 20,000 MILES,WHO KNOWS.
I HOPE THIS HELPS
Also, you might be interested in this topic.
Fuel and Oil Additives
Any ideas?
After getting towed out of the woods by a friend with a tractor, another neighbor let me use his (big, industrial) garage, where I cranked up the heat to 90 degrees, and spent 4 hours pulling my fuel system apart part by part. In the end, after I'd completely melted and blown out EVERY INCH of my fuel system, I realized there was an enormous resistance to flow through my BRAND NEW fuel filter (the first thing I'd done when I discovered problems was install a new filter I'd been carrying around). Turned out, the new filter came pre-clogged (for those who don't know, I spent nearly $40 for this filter, they are ridiculously expensive since they are a filter/water separator thing). So I swapped back in the old filter, and drove away. And yes, at 25 degrees or so, every inch of the fuel system was gelled.
I have gotten a large delivery of biodiesel in 50 gallon barrels, and this tankful was the bottom of the first barrel. For anyone who knows about how they "winterize" soy oil, it involves chilling and letting the iced portions settle to the bottom, and decanting the remaining. I suspect I was using the most freeze-susceptible fuel in that barrel, on just the wrong trip.
Anyway, live and learn. Thanks for people's thoughts and helpful intentions.
Keith
have you heard about the place that does biodiesel tdi conversions in ithaca NY? they add a little tank for dino diesel so you can run off that after winter-coldstart, heat everything up, then run off pure biodiesel/frenchfry-oil. i suppose at the end of the trip you have to throw the switch back to the dino diesel if it is cold, then let it idle for a minute?
I am also curious about your comments regarding your new fuel filter; when you say that your new fuel filter came "pre clogged" - you surely don't mean by design do you? How was it clogged? At any rate, what a bummer!
Oh..and thank God for a freind with a heated garage huh!
amsoil has diesel fuel modifer additive
go to www.amsoil.com,see what you think.
if you have anything new to share i would very much apreciat it thanks
"Have the glow plugs all checked. Classic symptoms of one
or more burnt out.
Have your shop pull out the main Relay in the fuse box
(109) and re install it. Some of them have corrosion on
them from sitting before installation. Removing cleaning
the contacts will, many times, cure the "sudden loss in
power while underway.", syndrome .
I am going to the VW place on Thursday since the car is in warranty, and I will write back with the verdict. Thanks again for your insightful response. Aloha!
The problem I see here is with the price. Are they saying $900 including the water pump? A OEM water pump and a timing belt kit is about $300, say $400 max. They're charging you $500 for labor?? That's steep. A good mechanic should be able to do it in 2-3 hours. A bad one in 5 hours. That's still $100/hour for a bad mechanic.
I'd get a break-down of what they're charging for what. www.worldimpex.com has the OEM parts for around $300 plus shipping. If they're buying from a dealer, they might be paying way too much for the parts. If they're not using OEM parts the price should be significatly less. I don't see how a timing belt/water pump should exceed $700, and that's likely at a dealer.
[Soapbox]
If you live in New England (as I do), and you are faced with challenging terrain, even if said challenge is infrequent, the $300 - $1,200 investment in a set of winter tires (depends upon size, type, capability and whether a second set of wheels is purchased as well) is money well spent. Tires are the single most important component for your car (or any car for that matter) when it comes to how well that car can deal with snow, slush, ice and even cold dry roads), including the option that many folks believe to be the winter driving panacea, namely AWD.
[/Soabbox]
Said another way, if you want a TDI, buy a TDI. If you don't like the tires due their poor winter capabilities, spend another $500 or so and buy a set that perform better.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am told that winter tires are MUCH improved over the "old days." So putting them on an ESP will probably make winter driving pretty seamless.
Lets not forget that Nokian is the company that makes the very best snow tires on earth (Hakkapeliitta). Located in Finland, Nokian has an extensive snow-covered test-track to perfect their tire designs.
Most of us TDI ownwers have been waiting YEARS for ULSD to become widely available in USA. The TDI engine was DESIGNED for ULSD. (As used in Europe)
Unfortunately, due to receint events. (hurricanes - flooding) In an effort to ease pressures on refineries, the President Bush has relaxed the rules that mandated ULSD.
Here is some more info.
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/ulsd.shtml
Best Regards,
Shipo
As for your lack of power... check the intake manifold for plugging. Also check the VNT actuator on the turbocharger to make sure it moves freely.
Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.
Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.
I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem.
Just came back from Germany and purchased my Jetta TDI in NC. We originally came from NY and thank goodness we did not go back. Among many other reason, you can't purchase a TDI in NY state.
Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.
Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.
I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem.