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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I'd try a new dealer. They obviously don't know diddly if they told you to check the gas cap. That's a gasser only problem.

    I can't really throw any ideas out there, could be lots of things and since it's brand new likely just has a bad sensor, or fuel issue. A dealer that knows the diesel cars won't have a problem figuring it out.
  • donzi81donzi81 Member Posts: 59
    Does anyone know if there will be a diesel version of the Passat or even Audi in the US. The mileage yields intrigue me. I was thinking of an Avalon, but I'd like something with AWD and a tad better mileage. TIA!
  • ballinaballina Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Passat TDI 90hp AHU engine but Superchipped.This car has been running happily on a VegOil/Diesel mix for the past six months.Fuel heated by water heated heat exchanger.How ever, for cold morning starts I wired in a switch to turn off power to the Coolant Temp Sensor so the Glow Plugs would stay on that little bit longer if needed.Yesterday no Glow Plug light showed and car wouldn`t start.I checked and there is no power going to the Plugs.50 AMP fuse is ok.Don`t know about the GP Relay which I assume is Relay 180 in the ECU box.By the way, new plugs fitted 3 months ago.My question, if anyone can help:There is mention of a fusible link somewhere in the firewall according to the manual.I can find no sign of it.Also, as the GPs are only meant to come on at -9degrees C(so Im told), should the car not start even with no power to the Plugs? If so ,am I looking at a fuel problem?.I am losing patience with this car, only 85,000 miles and I think the Dual Mass flywheel is on the way out.Severe judder when accelerating around 1800rpm in 3rd 4th and 5th gear.Whole car shakes..Anyone had this problem too?
  • tdiownertdiowner Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like you have air in your fuel line. It usually enters at or around the fuel filter. When the water is drained from the filter, or when the filter is replaced and the air is not completely purged, this problem can occur. also, if the drain plug on the fuel filter is not completely tightened, the problem will occur. I have just reached 100,000 miles on my 2001 New Beetle, and your problem is the only failure that I have had. Paid mechanic $500 to try to fix this problem. Finally, had to diagnose and fix it myself (by installing a new fuel filter for about $40). Good Luck!!
  • csmcsm Member Posts: 37
    I recently had my fuel door to stop latching. One minute it was fine and now - it won't latch shut. I notice also that I get no sound from the driver's door button when I pull it. anyone have any ideas? It's an '03 TDI. Incidentally, It worked fine until the day I filled the tank and ran the fuel over. I can't image that that has anything at all to do with this problem - but maybe.

    Thank you for your input.

    Charles in Indiana
  • rkrahnrkrahn Member Posts: 1
    My Jetta has a problem starting when it is close to the freezing temp. It will turn over for quite a while before starting. The preheat light in dash only stays on for a second then goes out. It starts well when cold out. It also runs very rough when cold. Runs very well when warm.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Perhaps it is high-time you check the glow-plugs and replace any that are burned out. (there are 4 glowplugs) They have served you well for many years.... but like any electric heaters, the eventually burn out.

    Glowplugs are easy-peasy to check with an ohmmeter after pulling the connectors off. (Any that are an electrical "open" is bad) To replace, they screw out just like a sparkplug.

    Also, the most common reason for starting issues is that the injection timing is incorrect. You need to connect your car to a computer to check this. You may find somone near you with a VAG-COM that would be willing to check it for you. (Edmunds rules forbid me from posting the link here ... Search the internet for "VAGCOM list")
  • ljg17ljg17 Member Posts: 2
    What type of veg oil are you using? Is it new or WVO?? if WVO how are you filtering it? What ratio are you using? How cold is it there? (I have never been to ireland) BTW what does a gallon of diesel set you back in ireleand?
  • ballinaballina Member Posts: 4
  • ballinaballina Member Posts: 4
    I use new Veg Oil costing 62c (Eur) per ltr.Mix 60/40 in summer and 40/60 in Winter.I add 2 ltrs of Petrol to thin the mix and clean the injectors. Winter temps rarely go below minus 4degrees C.Cost of diesel has fallen recently to approx $1.20 per ltr.
    Update on my problem: I have replaced both power Supply relay and Glow Plug relay.There is fuel going to injectors but still no start and no power to Glow Plugs.I tried VAG COM with just ignition on and all I get is "No response from Controller" Any ideas? Is my ECU shot?
  • ljg17ljg17 Member Posts: 2
    Have you tried posting this question at tdi club daught comm ? Those guys really know the TDI inside and out. Have you used the vagcom before? I.E. it is not an issue with the software PC etc. Has there been any other maintenance issues recently?
  • wb3jwb3j Member Posts: 3
    Hello All:
    I am having a problem with a 2000 TDI I bought about 3 months ago. It is low mileage....55,000. The car runs great, very peppy, no smoke, good mpg. About once a week it will start immediately & smoothly, then stall, as if I shut the key off. It will do this 6-8 times, then start as if there was no problem. No hesitation, no burbing, nothing. It DOES NOT matter if it's cold out side, or if the engine is cold from sitting overnight or hot from just being turned off. I've done some reading....there are a ton of differant things from improper injection timing, to glow plugs to just something loose or needing attention, like a seloniod. The other day it really acted up...took 30 minutes to start (I walked away) then returned & drove off like nothing happened. Any ideas...suggestions? Many thanks...
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    You might want to check to see if your anti-shudder valve might be sticking closed. This valve is an on/off flapper valve in your air intake that should only close for about 3 seconds right after you turn the car off. You might want to read up on doing this a bit at tdiclub because I think that there is a plastic linkage arm that can easily break when you pull this to clean it (they had a procedure for using a paper clip to reconnect the linkage if the plastic arm broke). Do you have the clear piece of fuel tubing leaving your fuel filter? If you do, look to see if you might be sucking air in with your fuel, that can cause some flaky problems. The thermostatic tee valve at the fuel filter can be a source of air in leakeage; if you change the fuel filter you need to replace the O-rings on this tee valve. Also, sometimes (often when changing the fuel filter), these valves get cracked (Its a good idea to have a backup on hand, you can get them at the dealer, or I bought mine at tdiparts for $20, they sell the orings too). I would think that its not glow plug related unless its only a problem when it pretty cold out. Injection timing wouldn't fix itself after the car started.
  • wb3jwb3j Member Posts: 3
    many thanks....I'm printing the replies from readers....I'll check them as soon as I can. I'm new to TDI...completely lost so far.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Immediately shutting down after starting sounds like the immobalizer kicking in. Does it do this with other keys in the ignition? (you should have gotten 3 keys when you bought it.)
  • protasovprotasov Member Posts: 3
    I was quoted $80 for oil change (Jetta TDI 2005). Dealer is Ed Murphy Volkswagen in Schaumburg, IL. It looks quite expensive.

    How much are you paying?
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I paid $53 for the 5000 mile service including oil & new filter on my 2005 Passat TDI. At Drew VW in La Mesa CA. Excellent dealer.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Oil change is something you can do yourself. TDIparts.com has oil & filters. Use only oil that meets the VW505.01 spec. I do it myself for @$25 plus half an hour of my time. The only mainataince that you really need the dealer for is doing the timing belt. Check TDIClub.com for how-to videos. DIY maintainance is as good way to get to know your car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you sure that $80 is just for an oil change? If you have a 2005 TDI, then you should not be getting just oil-changes. The suggested maintenance schedlule does not have "only" oil-changes anywhere in it.
  • wb3jwb3j Member Posts: 3
    I only got 1 key...the vaalet key & no keyless transmitter. It was a trade a high end dealer took in & the Jetta was a bit rough. I paid only $4500 for the car with 54k on it, so I think I did ok. The stalling started about a month ago. Since I only have the one key, I can't try another. I spoke to a dealer, they can make the master key from a vin# for about $100. I'm going to try that when I get extra cash. Thanks
  • jack40jack40 Member Posts: 1
    I have scaned this car 3 times it always comes back cmp fault I have a mt 2500 snap on scaner with asian import software but have little info because I have to go obd11 generic I understand this sensor is in distributor I have changed dist twice still sets fault 1.6 non turbo any ideas jack 40
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A sensor fault DOES NOT MEAN that a sensor is bad. All it means is that the onboard computer flagged a fault with the sensor circuit.

    For example-- an Oxygen sensor may flag a fault if there is too much fuel is injected.... this DOES NOT mean that the O2 sensor is "bad". (somthing else caused the extra fuel to be injected) A diagnostic tool is just that-- a TOOL that must be used with some skill and knowledge about what is being diagnosed.

    You really need to get a diagnostic tool DESIGNED for Volkswagen. I use VAGCOM myself. Please read past appends on how to locate a VAGCOM owner near you. Most folks with a VAGCOM are happy to help out a fellow TDI owner.
  • protasovprotasov Member Posts: 3
    > Are you sure that $80 is just for an oil change?

    Yes, I am sure. I specifically asked about oil change only.

    I also checked service schedule, it's only oil change, filter and drain water separator for 5000 miles.
  • protasovprotasov Member Posts: 3
    > I paid $53 for the 5000 mile service including oil & new filter.

    That's quite a difference compared to $80.

    I called second dealer nearby in Mount Prospect, IL and price is $75.

    Do they have some kind of MSRP for the service? If yes, then what is invoice? Did anybody manage to negotiate lower price?
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I think you will find it is what ever the market will bear. When I thought I had lost my fancy key for the Passat, I checked several dealers for a new one. The price varied from $115 to $285 at 4 dealers in San Diego.

    On my 5000 mile service I am looking at the bill. It was $50.63 including tax. Oil was $22, filter $6.89, labor $17.50, waste disposal $2. I think that was a fair price.

    I also bought the oil removal tool that is recommended and would have done my own except I am selling this car and wanted dealer service records.
  • minjablueminjablue Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 TDI Jetta it has been a great car, recently I have experience a couple of things. First is the glow plug light comes on immediately after starting and flashes. The car does however from time to time take a minute to start which is different. Also while driving along at different speeds the car will almost quite for a split second. This doesn't happen all the time but it can be annoying. I have had the car to the dealer and they have replaced the brake switch saying that was the problem. But that has not fixed the problem,I guess I'm looking for some help before I get stuck for replacing to many parts at the dealer. Has anyone else experienced the same thing and got it fixed? Now the other thing since I have had the brake switch installed is that the brakes seem to be sticking on some what. I have to go back to the dealer next week to get that fixed because in the snow it is not a good feeling having your brakes stick believe me. My car has 250,000KM the time belt was changed at 238 this past summer. The Glow plug light flashing started about a month and a half later. Not sure but maybe this is all tied together. If you have any ideas please drop me a note, I await your responses Thank you. Happy New Year To everyone.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I have seen quite a few posts on people who had their brake switches replaced where the switch wasn't adjusted correctly and it would not allow the brake pedal to completely release and it would cause the brakes to stick (a bad brake booster unit can cause this also). Does putting your foot under the brake pedal and lifting up on it correct this problem when it happens? I think that VW had a recall on the brake switches on the around 2001 models (my daughter has a 2001 2.0 ltr gas Jetta and had this switch replaced under recall). Definitely sounds like your switch was not done correctly. As far as the car quitting while you are driving it, that does not sound right. Are you sure that this just isn't more of your brakes sticking? The glow plugs are really only needed to start the car when it is cold out (I think they cut in if its less than 45F out, but you car would probably start fine without them unless it was <30), once the car starts, the glow plugs aren't needed any more. I have seen quite a few posts about Relay 109 failing, sometimes this can begin as an intermittent problem, I guess that could cause your car to have an intermittent quit occasionally (there are lots of things with a gas engine that can mess with your ignition system (coil pack, wires), but once a diesel engine is running most of those items just aren't there to mess up. Just out of curiosity, who changed your timing belt over the summer? I would assume that they checked your timing after it was done to ensure everything was right. If someone near you has Vagcom, you might want to have them verify that your timing still looks good. With your car being a 2001, if those were the origional glow plugs, I'm sure that they were due to be replaced (at some point you might want to consider replacing the glow plug wiring harness also if you run into any more problems with the glow plugs, the wiring can develop problems also, if you look on tdiclub I think that there are people that have successfully removed and cleaned their wiring harnesses to correct problems). Definitely get it back to the dealer to have the brake switch adjusted though.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    Will the TDIs be available in all 50 states by the beginning of the 2007 model year VWs and when do 2007s become available?
  • minjablueminjablue Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info, yes when I put my foot behind the pedal and pull back it seems to release. So yes I'll definitely be going back to the dealer on the brake switch. The timing belt was changed by the mechanic that services mostly all Volkswagens in Pictou County, Nova Scotia. It is possible though that that could be part of the problem though. Because this glow plug issue started a month and a half the belt was changed. I'll take your advise and have it checked again, one never knows until he does it. Someone on TDI club mentioned to also check the injector quality(timing) especially after a timing belt was changed. What is your thoughts on that if you don't mind me asking? The other thing was that the glow plugs have never been replaced. So that is always a possibility too, it has been starting good in the cold though I must say. I never plug it in and in the winter here it can get fairly cold, 28 degrees F is the average but can dip by times alot more to 0. Are the glow plugs easy to change by yourself or would you recommend the dealer, I work around my vehicles all the time so not scared to tackle things. I just like to know as much about things before I start. Thanks again it's great to be able to talk to people that go through the same type of things with their vehicles or have a better knowledge of the mechanics of them than most. Happy New Year
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    Replacing the glow plugs is pretty much the same as changing spark plugs on one of these cars. You need to be very carefull on how you get them started (the heads are aluminum and you really don't want to crossthread), and also that you don't overtighten them (I would check torque specs at tdiclub, I think its around 20 ft-#, but again the aluminum threads can strip if you over tighten). If you want to do them yourself, you can get them from tdiparts.com or worldimpex.com. I would also consider doing the wiring harness (at least see what it would cost). I have never had to change the glow plugs on mine yet, but you should be able to take a look and see how easy or difficult they are to get at. Again, if someone in the area has Vagcom, the timing and the IQ (injector quantity) can be checked. I know that there is a post on this Edmunds site recently where someone gave a link to a Vagcom user list. The other thing to do is just make a post "does anyone have Vagcom near _____ Nova Scotia." I'm not sure how far you are from a fellow that is an expert on TDIs in Maine, but if you search for Herm on tdiclub you would never find anyone more skilled at working on these cars, he also instructs and lets you help.
  • upsjimmmupsjimmm Member Posts: 1
    Hello every one . I just bought a 1996 VW Jetta the oil light comes on after a few minutes of driving, it is a very annoying beep. I wondering if any one knows what problems could cause this. I do not think it is the oil pump but honestly I have no idea . Any suggestions on what to do?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    This is not uncommon in VWs. VW uses a pretty complicated system of sensors to verify that the oil-pressure is correct.

    Basically, there is a sensor at the oil-filter (beginning of oil-system) and there is a sensor at the end of the engine (end of the oil-system). (also senses for too LOW and too HIGH pressure)

    Depending on the "status" of these sensors, the oil light may be on/flashing and may/maynot be accompined by an audible alert.

    There was a 'run' of whimpy oil-pumps... but for now, lets assume your problem lies elsewhere.

    The #1 cause of the problem you describe is due to using the WRONG viscosity of oil.

    Also, I have personally seen cases where the hydrolic lifters get cruddy and the pump cannot maintain oil-pressure. In theses cases, I have found that adding STP OIL TREATMENT has fixed the problem.

    I have also seen cases wheras the oil-pressure sendor(s) were inaccurate. (It is easy to uncrew them to replace them)

    Of course it is best if you get the oil-pressure checked using a calibrated meter. (just to make sure the oil-pressure is OK)
  • csmcsm Member Posts: 37
    Can anyone give me any idea how much fuel is left in the tank of my '03 TDI when the needle hits the red and the low fuel light comes on? Could I have maybe - a gallon left?
    Thanks.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    For mine, it comes on at app 12.1 gals. So given a 14.5 tank that is 2.4 gal left.
  • imp63imp63 Member Posts: 1
    I used AMZOIL products only once in my life. Amzoil 100:1.
    I used it in my snowmobile and promptly burned it up. Never again will I use Amzoil trash.
  • tjones5tjones5 Member Posts: 1
    I have had 2 glow plugs replaced. Neither time did the 2 different dealerships inform me of the cause. You must turn the key over (without cranking the car) until the glow plug light changes colors, indicating it is ready to be cranked. If you fail to do this, especially in cold weather, it will cause you to replace one or more of the plugs. My brother, who drove diesels in the army, told me about this. Since I've been doing this, I haven't had glow plug problems, just lots of electrical problems.
    Good luck!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Failing to allow the glowplugs to activate should NOT cause them to fail. A glowplug is simply an electric heater which will eventually burn out.

    The MOST COMMON reason for glowplug problems on the TDI engine is the WIRING HARNESS that feeds power to them. It is highly recommended that some kind of conductive grease be applied to connections to help reduce corrosion.
  • gkacalagkacala Member Posts: 3
    Hey Folks. I have been having two problems with my 2004 Jetta Wagon diesel. It seems to be sucking coolant (about a quart over 5.000 miles), yet the dealer during two different checks can find no leaks in the system.

    Next, the check engine light comes on and the dealer indicates that it is due to sulphur build up as a result of reformulated gas here in S.E. Wisconsin. He recommends using Diesel No. 1 fuel in an attempt to burn it off. Then go back to Diesel 2.

    The car has 41,000 miles. Anybody experience these types of problems or can suggets solutions?
    thanks

    gordy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Losing coolant as you describe is a KNOWN ISSUE and may also be causing your CEL. The "watercooled EGR" has been known to leak antifreeze INTERNALLY. (right into the EGR system) This leaking coolant gets sucked right into the intake system and could leave behind residue that may APPEAR to be sulpher build-up.

    Since this is a KNOWN problem that some TDIs have seen, a good dealership would just REPLACE THE "watercooled EGR" under warantee. (just to eliminate that as the issue)

    I am somewhat surprised that your dealership has not better researched this "mysterious losing coolant" problem... the VW technical support system should have immedeately pointed them to the "watercooled EGR".

    DEFINITION: The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system pulls some of the hot exhaust gas from the exhaust system. This is routed thru a heat-exchanger (surrounded by flowing antifreze) to cool it off. The cooled exhaust gas is then fed into the intake system to be consumed by the engine again.

    =============

    As far as I am aware #1Diesel and #2 have the very same specifications for sulpher-content. (until the ELSD specifications come into effect)

    The downside to using #1Diesel is that it is NOT APPROVED by Volkswagen for use in the TDI engine. It is closer to kerosene in the way it is refined thus has reduced lubrication-qualities. The lack of lubrication can SERIOUSLY damage your fuelpump and injectors.

    Perhaps if you tell us the actual code that the CEL is giving -- we may be able to point you in a better direction.
  • gkacalagkacala Member Posts: 3
    thanks. I'll check this out. Sorry for the double post

    gordy
  • hardminayahardminaya Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I Have 1999 VW Beetle 1.9 TDI with exactly the same problem like Cris8fishcar, the glow plug ligth comes on very quickly. I you have any information for help me to resolve this case, I Appreciate.

    Thank in advanced.
  • ballinaballina Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem which is discussed in a previous thread. Turns out it was the immobiliser, or specifically the key sensor pick up coil around the ignition barrel. I took off the connection and cleaned it with some electric solvent, rerouted the cable and tied it down.Make sure to leave some slack to allow extension the steering wheel. Cured my problem.Apparently its a known issue.

    Ballina
  • ringomonkeyringomonkey Member Posts: 1
    On Friday, after a hard days' work, I started my little 2002 Gold TDI, and began my journey home. Shortly after starting the little guy, the Engine Malfunction Light came on and stayed on. The light remained on for several minutes. It did not blink. I parked the car, called my wife, had her check the manual, and the manual stated that it was OK to drive the car (under reduced power) but the vehicle needed to be taken to a dealer soon.

    So I drove home. I took city streets instead of the freeway. Turned off the radio and drove without the heater on. The light stayed on the entire trip. I parked the car and left the problem for Monday.

    I was not going anywhere over the weekend so I left the car sit.

    This morning I went to start the vehicle and it would not start. The starter seemed to crank the engine once or twice, then nothing. I attempted to start the engine a second time, and nothing, not even the sound of the start cranking. I waited a minute and tried a third time. This time, I heard a rapid-fire crackling/snapping/popping noise that sounded like a toy machine gun. The instrument lights blinked on-off in time with the noise.

    Thinking the battery had died, I tried to jump start the car, but to no avail. After 10 minutes of getting power, I tried starting the Golf with the exact same results as above.

    I've got 50,233 miles on my Golf. The warranty is 4/50,000 and while I believe I have a few more months on the warranty, I am over the mileage limit.

    Any ideas on what is going on here? Any ideas how to fix it?
  • austingilmoreaustingilmore Member Posts: 3
    Quandry. We need a wagon for the kids. I'm looking at an 02 TDi Wagon with 52K on it and regular maintenance v. an 04 2.0L gasser with 6K on it. Both GLS. The 02 is under a 2 year extended warranty. 02 is only about $1000 cheaper at this point.

    From a cost of ownership standpoint/reliability standpoint, which one of these is the keeper? The TDi may not loom as large as for some of you since we're only driving 7-10K a year.

    thanks for whatever insights y'all can provide.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well, it's fairly clear which one holds value better:) You're looking to save maybe $300/year on fuel. Not a big number since you don't drive much. I'd initially say buy the gasser but would want to run further resale numbers. How long do you keep vehicles, etc. will play into the calculation. The '04 seems to have ridiculously low miles, any idea why? Hopefully it wasn't a lemon or in a bodyshop being screwed back together.

    Leave the TDI's to folks that drive a lot!
  • austingilmoreaustingilmore Member Posts: 3
    Well, we just disposed of a 92 Corolla. So we don't tend to release cars easily. Even with a shallow back seat, if we could keep the Jetta til the kids are 10-12 years old that wouldn't seem to be doing them any harm. Question is whether I will give up in frustration with some of the problems VWs have long before that point.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well, you either love a VW and can live with the hiccups or you don't. I've been pretty lucky with mine ('02, 130k largely trouble-free miles) but I went into it knowing it was likely to have a few more issues than the Toyotas I used to buy. Of course you're coming out of a glory-years Toyota where they really were built to run forever. My recent experience with Toyota has been less positive than my early/mid-90's models. The only real issue I have with VW is the dealers tend to charge more for service and have a worse reputation than Toyota dealers. I do all my own service and the VW is cheap/easy to keep on the road.
  • insiinsi Member Posts: 12
    Hi..

    Is it better to buy TDI engine if travelling up to 15000km per year or better get FSI engine?

    Is it faster to damage the TDI engine if travel around 25 mins per trip?

    If I am getting TDI engine and travel less, I need to change the oil every one year instead of waiting for the service due that is probably two years or 1.5 years, is this true?

    Thank you for your opinion and help.

    Iwn
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    insi/iwn, the math is different in UK due to different relative & absolute fuel prices. in USA, a mere 10k miles per year might not justify TDI. but now that i've had 2 TDIs, i'll always prefer diesels - except not in a performance car.
    25 mins per trip is plenty to warm up the TDI - so no worry there.
    after the initial oil change or two, the oil change interval is 16000 km, so one oil change per year would work fine for you, after the first year.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    What model year did they offer the DSG 6 speed in the Beetle TDI?
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