Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Volkswagen TDI Models

1383941434449

Comments

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    cosmo, that's a great point. last i knew, the tdi geeks over at tdi club have proven that the shudder is caused by the EGR and they have fixed it by adding a "restrictor plate" to the EGR. this increases pollution output in some cases and causes the OBD to throw a code. but apparently it does fix the shudder. my info on that might be out of date.
    anyway, i think your point is "spot on". i have not run tests myself to see if additive helps eliminate the shudder/hesitation/bucking of my 05 passat TDI. maybe i will give it a try.
    bpeebles, ok, yeah i hear your point too! and thanks for giving me credit for being at least somewhat humorous! as for antigel, we needn't worry about it unless we are the engineering director at an oil refinery. our pals at the oil companies take care of the antigel for us. there's a table for each US state, for each month of the year, which specifies the temp to which the fuel must be protected. i think they use something other than kerosene nowadays but i am not sure about that. there's no doubt that whatever is the antigel-additive, it lowers mpg by about 10%.
    i had mistakenly thought you were talking about customer-added additives, not the stuff the oil companies already take care of for us... in early winter in the northern states, be sure to use a high-volume diesel station so as not to get stuck with an old batch of fuel during an early cold-snap!
    ttfn!
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    Makes sense that the indicator light came on. Obviously it wasn't making enough contact with the alternator pulley.

    The guy at the local VW deaslership gave me the description: Alternator Pulley Replacement Kit (one piece - item #022-903-119-A $86.97 +tx) . I have a good pic of the torn up interior of the pulley if I could only figure out how to post it.

    Any thoughts on how this pulley would have become seized?
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Give me an opinion on this one. Original MAF 130K on it. No problems. Replace now while I have the car in the shop or let it ride?
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    My 2005 passet TDI has had the shudder since it was new.
    The dealer has installed the EGR gasket with the small hole, made NO difference. I have 15,000 miles on the TDI and my wife and I love the wagon but the shudder at 30-40 mph steady speed is most aggravating.
    I have tried Amsoil diesel additive for TDI cars, no change.
    It appears this is not a problem VW is interested in correcting. VW customer relations states, "SORRY,if we come up with something we will contact you".
    The dealer states, "If VW cannot come up with a fix, there is nothing we can do".
    I was a VW service manager in the past. I would find a fix for my customers if they brought a problem to our attention, I would not live with, (Ve Don't got NO shudder problem with TDI). Devoted VW customers will continue to purchase VWs but I GUESS SOMEONE FORGOT THIS!!!
    My first VW? ,NO. 5 VWS in the family in the past 4 years, not counting all the beetles I've had and the kids had as they were growing up..I sound angry, no, just dissappointed.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If your MAF is not a problem... why spend $$ on it?

    If it does cause problmes later... it is VERY easy to replace with a phillips-screwdriver and one hand tied behind your back.

    Actually easier than replacing either of the the air-filters!!
  • bdon_xbdon_x Member Posts: 3
    i have a 95 golf.

    just wondering if its necessary to replace a bad oxygen sensor; the 1st bank. if i should replace it asap, where is they located under the hood..

    thanks.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    jamesw4, i feel your disappointment!
    have you considered/tried just downshifting by 1 gear
    in order to avoid the shudder? so, downshift into 4 (or 3) at 30 to 40 mph - maybe that will cure it. and mpg will not get that much worse!
  • anointedhelpanointedhelp Member Posts: 7
    I live in Atlanta, GA. Winters here are mild, very rarely does drop below 10 F. After reading the posts, it seems that the general consensus is to add the diesel fuel conditioner to my tank. I'll probably do it at every other fill up. Thanks for your input!! :)
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for your concern,yes I do drive around this problem,its just the lack of VW concern that really frosts me.In the old days we would get with VW and find a fix.I guess times have changed.
    Again, your thoughts on this situation are appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you CERTAIN that your TDI has O2 sensor?

    In any case, if your car *does* have O2 sensors... they are not often found "under the hood" of a VW. This because the exhaust on VW is on the FIREWALL side of the engine and O2 sensors are screwed into the exhaust system.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    you are most welcome, jamesw4. i believe that VW's apparent lack of concern is really not that. i think they are between a rock and a hard place due to the tailpipe emission requirements for USA diesels and our absurdly dirty diesel fuel (currently). in particular, i believe that if VW had not designed the EGR system as to risk the shudder, the TDI passat would not pass the current tier-whatever EPA/USA emissions requirements.
    so given the choice between the 05 & 04 passat TDI with the shudder-egr design, and no 05 & 04 passat TDI at all, i'll take the shudder-egr for now.
    the other alternative was the jetta TDI but i drove one of those for 60k miles in 2 years and after that i could no longer tolerate the jetta's abysmal handling and floaty ride.
    currently i prefer diesels except in high-performance cars, so my only other diesel choice would have been Benz E320 CDI. i might have considered one of those but my experience and research tells me that VWs are WAAAAY more reliable than Benzes. no way was i going to pay twice the $ for a car that is half as reliable.
    one of our other vehicles is a volvo xc90, which we really like. but if audi would have a diesel available for the Q7, i'd probably have one on order right now. maybe next year...
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I have not noticed any shudder in 7700 miles on my 2005 Passat TDI Wagon. It has always had BP/ARCO ULSD for fuel. I think that may be the difference. Never a puff of smoke even when the temp is close to freezing in the morning. The sooner ULSD is available from coast to coast the better all our diesels will run.
  • jamesw4jamesw4 Member Posts: 8
    I appreciate your feedback. I would say your right on the money, as far as VW/emissions.

    Thanks again for your concern and professionL RESPONSE.

    JW
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I have read posts at TDIclub that describe this problem that were fixed by making adjustments via vagcom to the injection quantity (amount of fuel being injected). It made sense when I read the problem and solution (insufficient fuel at various conditions causing the engine to be on the brink of stalling). Would suggest doing a search on that site for the details.
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    My '01 TDI 5-speed has 71K miles. I have personally taken off the intake manifold and throttle body, cleaned both thoroughly, replaced the EGR valve with a dealership part, I run AMSoil in it, I've cleaned snow filter, replaced fuel filter, and I still get terrible performance/power. I can't go up even a slight incline without slowing down quite a bit and sometimes downshifting. If I'm running the A/C, forget it, I run 0 - 60 in 15 minutes. Before I consider additives or a chip, I want to make sure there's nothing seriously wrong with the car. Could it be the VNT actuator? I have no check engine light right now. Miuleage is about 38 in city and 43 highway. I need more power and speed. :sick:
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Have you replaced the MAF sensor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You may be on the right track by suggesting the VNT actuator. If the "Variable Nozzle Turbocharger" is sticking, it is possible that you are not getting any boost pressure.

    It is often possible to check the VNT actiuator by manually moving it with your hand. (It should not feel like it is sticking anywhere along its travel)

    As for possible MAF problem, You can disconnect the connector to the MAF and let it dangle... then drive the car for several days to see if the power is resored. If your power seems to get better, the MAF is suspect.(disconnecting the MAF connector may turn on the CEL...but ignore it)
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    One thing on disconnecting the MAF to test it...

    If the MAF is not completely crapped out, it may be hard to distiquish if power is restored or not. Running without the MAF will not give you 100% performance. I supsected mine at 70k miles and tried unhooking it and didn't have much better results with it unhooked. I then hooked up my VAGCOM to test the MAF and it was about 60% out of spec. Replaced the MAF and all was good.

    I was not to the point I was drastically slowing down for hills, but there was an fairly obvious lack of power. It's hard to notice if you drive it day-to-day because the power drops off slowly over time as the MAF gets worse. If your MAF has never been replaced I would be highly supsect. Most of the '00-'01 models all were faulty by 60k miles for the most part, to the point VW was replacing them for free if you were under a certain mileage.
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    This is all great information for me to digest and I have a few questions. First can the CEL system detect a faulty MAF or VNT Actuator? If so, why hasn't it? Is a new MAF sensor and/or VNT actuator pretty easy to install myself, I'm guessing yes on that one, especially after the intake manifold process. If all systems are go, what kind of power/performance can I expect to get out of this vehicle? Are there specs out there to compare with my vehicle? Thanks for your help on this issue.
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    One other question, where do I find the VNT Actuator in order to wiggle it and see if it's sticking?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've never monkeyed with the VNT actuator, but the MAF is a piece of cake. The CEL seems to be hit/miss with the MAF. Mine never came on but it was out of spec. I think it has to be really bad before it will set the light.

    The MAF basically just pops in/out with a coule screws (i believe they're torx screws).
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    As far as performance goes...they're not the fastest cars stock. I have gone to larger injectors and a upsolute chip, adjusted the injection qty to reduce smoke, and I'm real happy with the performance. I don't drive the car much anymore though as I let my daughter take over the helm. She was driving an '03 Celica GTS and we actually sold it because she preferred driving my TDI. The Celica was fairly quick but you had to rev the crap out of it and then you were constantly shifting. She couldn't get over 25mpg with it and that was premium fuel. She's driving 100 miles a day to school and loves the TDI. Still averaging in the high 40's with over 130k miles.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The VNT actuator is on the turbocharger (Where else would the "Variable Nozzle Turbocharger" actuator be?)

    The turbocharger is bolted to the exhaust side of the engine. The actuator is a little rod sticking out of the turbocharger which should move about 1/2 inch back and forth.

    Click here to see detailed photos of the VNT15 turbocharger The actuator rod is clearly seen in some of the photos. The reason for sticking is also discussed on that webpage. (HINT: Babying the TDI engine!)
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    I did some work on my car last week and determined that the VNT Actuator was not the problem, mainly because I drive it in a way that this wouldn't be happening. Thanks for your pointed comments on where the VNT Actuator is located. That was very helpful. The real issue was the MAF Sensor. I purchased a new MAF Sensor from the VW Dealer for $139, instaled it in a matter of about 5 minutes, cranked up the diesel, and my problems have all disappeared in a split second. The car's performance, acceleration, power, mileage, just about everything is nothing short of amazing! Because I did all of the other things to improve these before the MAF, it's like a rocket now. I can do a 0 - 60 in about 6 seconds as opposed to 1 minute. The car literally throws me up against the seat now. A/C or no, it still kicks butt. ;) Now I can drive like a normal person again. Thanks again for the help.
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    I replaced the MAF sensor my car has become a speed demon in a matter of seconds. The sensor cost me $139, I replaced it in a few minutes, and jumped on the highway, only to be amazed by the performance! Now, I guess because I already removed the snow filter, cleaned out the intake manifold, throttle body, heat exchanger, replaced the EGR, started using AMZoil, checked everything possible, and finally woke up and replaced the MAF, the car is a rocket ship. I can be going 80mph in a few seconds. The turbo boost is insane. I'm think at this point I could whup any 1.8T on the road. My kids think I bought a race car that looks like my previously slow-going Jetta. Thanks for all of your help. :D
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Glad to hear it was something simple, even it took awhile to figure out. Now you need to replace the nozzles and add a chip to really wake it up.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A local newspaper is looking to interview consumers who are driving a diesel Volkswagen or Mercedes-Benz in the Midwest/Northeast area, please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Friday May 5, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information and where you’re located.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • splaund1splaund1 Member Posts: 4
    Here is what I do to make the "shudder" go away on my 2004 Passat TDI. It seems to me to be fuel related. If I buy very high cetane rated fuel (50 or over) it goes away but fuel with that high of a cetane value is not very common. I add 5 to 6 ounces of Amsoil Cetane boost to every tank of fuel and it goes away. If I do add the cetane boost it comes back really fast. I believe the ULSD has a very high cetane value.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I ran BP ULSD in my Passat the whole time I owned it. Never a shudder or running issue. My Kubota tractor runs much better on ULSD than cheap red dye diesel also. All diesel is not the same. By June most states should have ULSD available.
  • dgubbedgubbe Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a problem with my 2003 Jetta TDI that sounds exactly like yours. The VW Service said it is likely my Fuel Pump (est $2,200 to replace). Did you ever receive any feedback or find a solution?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Geez, $2,200 to replace the fuel pump?!? I just checked a parts supplier and a brand new VDO fuel pump is a whopping $166.79. I must be missing something, I mean, are they really that difficult to replace. Hmmm, let's see, shop labor of $50 per hour (at least around here), that works out to over 40 hours of labor. Even if the shop rate was $75 that still works out to about 27 hours.

    So gang, what am I missing?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Ummm -- the fuel pump we are discussing is NOT the one in the fueltank.

    It is the HI PRESSURE injection pump under the hood which is bolted to the engine and driven by the timingbelt. At the VERY LEAST... one would have to pay for a complete timingbelt replacement AND the new fuel pump AND you better put a waterpump in there while it is apart.

    A diesel fuelpump may cost as much as the TDI engine block!! I just did a search on the internet and a REBUILT injection pump runs over $1000.

    Also, VW has single-use bolts... which means ALL the bolts have to be replaced once they are removed. (Lest the engine may fall out from underneath the car if bolts are reused)

    That is why it costs over $2000 to replace the TDI fuelpump.

    SUGGESTION: Get a second opionion from somone that KNOWS how to read the computer while it is connected up to your car.... not from somone that seems to be GUESSING that the problem is the fuelpump.

    Also, some fuelpump issues can be FIXED without replacing the entire unit.

    BOTTOM LINE: This is another good example that reflects the need to use fuel additive every single time you put diesel in your TDI. The additive lubricates the expensive fuelpump as well as provides 2-4 MPG increase.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Don't let a dealer do $2000 worth of repairs because it's "likely" the injection pump. They "likely" don't know what they're doing. Maybe it is the injection pump, but it amazes me the number of injection pumps, turbos, etc. that dealers will replace and then miraculously (after the repair) find a sensor that "also" needed replacing. Find someone or another dealer capable of diagnosing the problem. They'll throw parts at it as long as you'll throw money at them.
  • dfrwtdfrwt Member Posts: 2
    Use the fuel additive in general, it reduces the possibility of corrosion in addition to keeping the water from freezing in your fuel line.

    Keep your rpms relatively low. Over-revving will void your warranty. I just had my engine replaced under warranty. Since the 1st cylinder was not holding pressure, they put in a short block at 77000. I argued for the long block since the heads and valves were definitely worn and would cause problems down the road. Less than 30 miles on the new engine one of those valves put itself right through the head of the new short block. VW tried to say I over-revved the engine, but I hadn't and they had no evidence. The local shop had agreed that the long block was the way to go, but VW USA didn't agree and they paid for it.

    The check light is on your dash panel, see your owner's manual.

    Mobil 1 in 2001 was not good enough for VW, you had to use Mobil 1 Delvac. It is easier to use Chevron DeLo 0W-30. It is certified for use in the engine and it is more readily available.

    Service your fuel filter as recommended. I drain mine more frequently just because in Alaska there is a greater chance for condensation.

    You can increase HP which may increase MPG.
  • dfrwtdfrwt Member Posts: 2
    These are the symptoms:
    1. I can't shift into 1st in the normal shifting pattern. It is hard blocked. I get shunted over to third.
    2. If I push down the stick and move it to where reverse is, it is in 1st.
    3. Gears 2-5 work fine and are in the right place.

    Is this just a simple linkage adjustment or am I in need of a more complex fix?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure if your '98 has cable-shift linkage or the older rod-n-knuckle linkage. In any case, yours sounds like a situation of needing adjustment.

    I owned at least 3 VWs with the rod-n-knuckle linkage and after about 90K miles, the plastic bushings needed to be replaced in all the moving joints. (at the time, a "kit" of plastic parts cost about $30) Each time I had the "kit" installed, I was AMAZED at how well it shifted again.

    If yours has the "cable linkage" the adjustment may be even EASIER to perform... about the same as adjusting the brake cables on a bicycle. The trick is getting all 3 cables to work in harmony together.
  • lrccolelrccole Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking at a 2000 model Jetta TDI with 111,000 miles on it. Should I be concerned about that many miles with this vehicle? How many miles before someone could expect to begin having problems?
  • tdihelltdihell Member Posts: 5
    I am having the same issues with my turbo in an '02 TDI Beetle. Now it's my understanding that there's no such thing as a throttle body in a TDI engine. So what part is everyone actually referring to when they talk about replacing/cleaning the throttle body?
  • austintdiaustintdi Member Posts: 11
    There are a few areas that can get really clogged up diesel soot. Mainly the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The throttle body is connected to the intake manifold, and I believe is also a heat exchanger. It's cylinder shaped object with what looks like a series of straws inside the cylinder. These straws can get really clogged up with soot and grime. The manifold itself can also get really dirty, and cleaning can require some really toxic solvents. The EGR valve on my TDI was by far the worst. It can be cleaned with solvents, but a new one isn't too expensive. One other thing I would check is the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). Replacing that part on my car turned it from a turd into a speed demon. I hope this helps. :)
  • tdihelltdihell Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. Fortunately, the car is still under warranty and the dealer is actually covering the repair. They have replaced the MAF and several sensors, cleaned out the EGR valve, intake manifold, and throttle body, and have finally determined that the culprit is the turbocharger itself, which they are now replacing after 4 months and 5 trips in for service. It's been a nightmare, but at least I feel like there's nothing else they can possibly clean or replace, and I'm hoping the car will finally run like it's supposed to. I'm thinking of trading it in for a new one before the warranty expires, unless you guys think the worst may be over and I'll be trouble-free for awhile. Also, they told me on visit #4 that my oil cooler had blown and oil was sucked into my catalytic converter. Have you ever heard of this?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The only time I've heard of all these issues on one car is when the dealer had no clue what they were doing and just throwing parts at it. There are a lot of electrical controls for the Turbo and a bad sensor can easily be misdiagnosed. I guess it doesn't matter since warranty is paying for it. I'd bet money they'll swap the turbo and still not fix the problem. Eventually they'll find the part and it'll likely be something simple that a decent tech could have diagnosed in a few minutes. That's the problem when you own a VW and don't have the ability to work on it yourself. Dealers don't really know much more than you, but they'll take a stab at it on someone's dime.
  • tdihelltdihell Member Posts: 5
    Then my only options are to fix it myself in the future, also through trial and error. Or move closer to a competent dealer. Anyone have recommendations in the Miami area? I've spoken to VW customer service 3 times, and though they seem concerned, they aren't doing anything to really help. The next step will be to force my dealer to buy back the car for what I paid for it last September.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It never ceases to amaze me what people DONT know about their vehicles. Lets settle a few things.

    *)A diesel engine DOES NOT have a throttlebody! There is no throttle at all on a diesel engine. Engine speed is controled SOLELY by limiting the amount of fuel injected into the engine.

    *)There is NO WAY that a "blown" oil-cooler can suck air into the catalytic converter. The oil-cooler dumps heat into the ANTIFREEZE and is nowhere near the exhaust system.
    (Have you been losing oil from the engine?)

    *) Most turbochargers which are replaced have NOTHING wrong with them. A turbocharger is no more complicated than a vacuum-cleaner.... and is in-fact EXACTLY the same design.

    BOTTOM LINE: You have been fed a line of cr@p all along. They are just throwing parts at the problem and you should be glad that VW is picking up the bill.

    BTW: There is a SLIGHT chance that all the symptoms you are describing are caused by an oil-leak past the turbocharger seal. So I ask again ARE YOU LOSING ENGINE OIL?
  • tdihelltdihell Member Posts: 5
    No, I am not losing oil. And let me just point out that I am on this forum to educate myself, because apparently it's too much in this day and age to expect the actual manufacturer of a product to support that product. I have recently had to learn all about home wiring, plumbing, cabinetry, and flooring because of the amount of incompetent service people in Miami. Apparently I now have to become a diesel engine expert as well. If anyone has any recommendations for a competent VW dealer in the Miami area, please let me know!
  • carnut17carnut17 Member Posts: 46
    my tdi is in desperate need of an oilchange, however, i can't find the drain plug; is it under the plastic skid plate below the motor. do i need to jack the car up. can anyone tell me how many quarts it takes, the oil filt. location etc. please help i don't want to have to pay 85.00 to the dealer. unfortunately im not a mech. either as you can tell. oh is there anything unusual i need to be aware of thanks carnut17
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Here is a link to a website that "ranks" dealerships and other repair facilities.

    If you do some research on the internet...you may find other sources of information.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    First and foremost.... you MUST use the proper "VW approved" synthetic engine-oil. Anything less and you are asking for trouble. Here is a Suitable oil for your TDI.

    It takes 5 quarts.

    The oil-filter is NOT like you may have seen on other engines. It is JUST a filter-element with 2 O-rings to replace. (Wallmart carries the oil-filter and the O-rings are in the box with the filter)

    The oil-filter housing is right in front of the engine. (Between engine and radiator.) The top screws off.

    The drainplug is behind that plastic cover you mentioned. Most folks just suck the oil out thru the dipstick-tube with an oil-changer.

    This is the Oil-Changer that I use. (I got it on sale for less than $20)
  • carnut17carnut17 Member Posts: 46
    thanks bpeebles for the oil change info it's people like you who make our world a better place. i luv my tdi, especially since these gas prices have been going thru the roof. the parts and serv. dept. at my vw dealer wouldn't give me the info i needed to do my own oil change ; can you believe it. it is nice to know i don't have to purchase the oil or the filter from them; the last thing i want to to do is give them money. THANKS AGAIN BPEEPLES!!!!
  • tdihelltdihell Member Posts: 5
    Great link. Thanks, bpeebles!!
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Thanks for both posts, bpeebles. My recently "went out of business dealer" (Grappone in Concord) was ranked fairly low, confirming what I felt is the reason (not slow sales as their letter said, but poor service). This will help me find a new place for warranty work (looks like Lakes Region Audi/VW in Laconia is held in high esteem).

    I am curious on the oil vac. As I understand it, the oil is removed through the dipstick tube. What is the residual left in the engine? Is this the most "sludgy" oil, only to contaminate the replacement? Is the drain method (assuming the drain plug is at the lowest point in the crankcase) more efficient than the vac method at removing the oil? What are some tricks to make sure the oil is fully removed?(Warm up the engine? park it on a slight incline: toward the front/back)?

    I always find it disconcerting that the oil looks so dirty after having it changed. I know...diesels have soot. It just bothers me when I pull the dipstick after a 15 mile drive home and still have 9,985 miles to the next change!

    Also, the dipstick on my '05 always reads high (above the bend) on one side, but OK on the other. It must drag somewhere in the tube?? But, it bothers me as it feels like there is too much oil in there!
Sign In or Register to comment.