Volkswagen TDI Models

sebring95 · May 2006

Hey, don't sweat it. I've had mine tested at 12k miles and it was still well within spec. The diesel oil is designed to suspend soot, no biggie. An oil test is only around $20 and if it makes you feel better...it's worth twice that!

I've never used the vac method just because I like to crawl under the car and make sure everything looks good, no leaks, etc. And with 10k mile intervals, it's good to do an inspection every time.

ruking1 · May 2006

UP shot: dont worry!

There are at least two indicators that show it to not be a reasonable worry.

1. Look at the dry sump quantity specification vs the oil change specification. BIG difference, i.e., an oil change does NOT get ALL the oil out.

2. There is a noticable difference in dipstick level based on whether or not you follow the oem specified oil level checking procedure vs i.e. overnight.

So as soon as you get the engine up to operating temp it almost guarentee's some oil will remain (in addition to the differences in dry sump vs oil change quantity)

OR if you "cold drain" the oil you will have more in the sump to drain out but almost NO oem recommends a cold drain.

I use a Mity VAC, but almost any one will work just fine.

shipo · May 2006

"I am curious on the oil vac. As I understand it, the oil is removed through the dipstick tube. What is the residual left in the engine?"

I've used my Pela oil extractor on four different car and after the first attempt on each, I crawled underneath and pulled the drain plug, just to see how much oil remained in the pan (if any). In all four cases, pulling the plug yielded a drip or two and that was it. The flip side is that the oil "sucked" out came with far more sump bottom deposits after that first change than was typical. After a few usages of the pump the amount of solids started declining. What that means to me is that the suction is actually picking up solids that would otherwise simply remain in the bottom of the sump when draining the oil via the conventional method.

Best Regards,
Shipo

carnut17 · May 2006

i went to my vw dealer to get my oil change supplies; they sold me castrol 5w/50w full synthetic, however no where does it say on the container that it i formulated for diesel engines. they assured me this was the correct oil and it is what their using. inaddintion; they initially they sold me 5w/40w i asked for 5w/50w, did i do the right thing? it really gets hot here in sacramento 90 plus is the avg. summer temp. is the castrol syntec ok to use on the tdi or did they make a monkey out of me thanks everyone

ruking1 · May 2006

Geez, it is hard to believe dealers are STILL not selling the correct oil to TDI owners !!!!

Please look in your owners manual for the correct VW specification, VW 502.00 OR whatever your owners manual REALLY says!!!! And tell them that is the oil you want!!! So take it back! Unless you see the correct specification number on the Castrol 5w50 oil, the chances are it is the WRONG oil.

The 5w40 is probably the correct oil, BUT since VW specifications have changed SO MUCH since my 2003, the best is to look it up in YOUR specific owners manual to be ABSOLUTELY sure.

jess198624 · May 2006

I've had my 99 Jetta for about a month and a half now and for some reason my fuel door latch will not open when I use the button to normally open it.

Latelly I've having to jam something in there to get it just to release. When I push the button I hear no click whatsoever like I used to. Maybe the fuse blew? I need help with cars, they aren't my expertise. I've already tried with leaving all doors unlocked, nothing seems to help. Any suggestions? I don't know much about cars.
*Jess

carnut17 · May 2006

jess i had the same problem with 03 jetta tdi. it was the switch in the drivers door that the dealer had to replace, at least thats what the dealer told me i don't know if they were telling me the truth or not becuase my car was under warranty at the time and they never seem to be honest. it very annoying

sebring95 · May 2006

If I'm thinking correctly, there is an "emergency" pull in the trunk to release the fuel door. I'm 600 miles from my car so I can't go look at the moment.

music287 · May 2006

BPeeples:

I notice your recommendation for the Mobil 1 product. The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc.
Do you have an opinion about this company?

I'll be taking delivery of a 2006 TDI Jetta in July/August.

Jay

shipo · May 2006

It is my understanding that the Mobil 1 oil has been certified to meet the VW 505.00 specification for diesel engines, AMSOIL only claims to meet it. Two very different things in my book.

Best Regards,
Shipo

davids1 · May 2006

The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc.

And what would you expect the Amsoil website to recommend???

gagrice · May 2006

A good question to ask the Amsoil dealer. Will you give me a written guarantee, that if VW voids my warranty due to using Amsoil, they will cover any damages. I would not use anything but the specified oil. It is only changed on a 10k cycle. I paid $6.25 per liter at my dealer for the Castrol 505.01, not a big deal.

magbarn · May 2006

I know I'm double posting,but here goes:
My new job requires me to do a 90 mile round trip commute and my 03 BMW is getting pretty expensive to drive here with $3.50/gal gas. Reading about this Jetta TDI has gotten me very excited but after calling 5 different dealers in socal NONE have one in stock as they won't make them until '08 model year. I'd like to buy one new. My parents own a 2nd home in Arizona where you can still get a TDI. What can I do do get one of these cars before the STOP making them in september?

carnut17 · May 2006

i purchased my tdi used in calif. i think that is the only legitimate way to own one in this backward state. i heard the car has to have at least 12,000miles on it before it can be resold. unfortunately; our state law makers are still making pollution laws from 1960's technology. vw says the tdi actually pollutes less then it's gas counterpart. inaddition, calif. has a huge number of cars on the road and the oil companys don't want the fuel saving diesels to catch on here because it would put a dent in their profits. they are already starting to lobby against the elect. hybrids by saying that they can pose an electrocution hazard in an accident to the occupants and rescue personnel, can you believe that thanks magbarn

carnut17 · May 2006

if your parents live in arizona just buy a new one there and use their address on the paperwork. the only drawback is you will have to drive for two years with an arizona lic. plate in calif. did you say their discontinuing the jetta tdi in sept. 06 ?

jimlockey · May 2006

VW will not stop making TDI's, but rather re-tooling for a new rail diesel.

Nobody knows if it will be a full year until they release the new 08's or could be six months. VW has the 06 TDI Jetta's, but they are selling them as fast as they get them.

magbarn · May 2006

But will they be sold in my butt backward state ie, the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia?

music287 · May 2006

You know, davids1, writing snide comments in a public newsgroup does not speak well of your respect for fellow human beings. The AMSoil website has specific recommendations for the VW tdi. Amongst them are some of their products and other, generic recommendations.

ruking1 · May 2006

Yes a good question. I have read the assertion and as I remember it, they indeed asserts Amsoil will write a letter in keep with the "Magnasson" ? anti trust legislation, as leverage in getting the OEM to perform specific engine repairs so called due to lack of specified performance of SAID motor oil (Amsoil) The reasoning goes that since very few engine problems are related to engine oil that due to the Magnasson Act, the OEM should not be withheld using a non certified oil. (such as Amsoil)

I don't read this to be a Tammy Wynette like: "Stand By Your Oil" type of verbiage.

My take is that if you use Castro 505.01 spec oil, they will immediate begin warranty proceedings after say an oil analysis.

davids1 · May 2006

The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc. Do you have an opinion about this company?

My comment was not meant to offend, but was meant to ask you if you would expect their website to recommend another manufacturers product? It appeared you put a lot of faith in Amsoil's recommendations! Just because Amsoil recommends a product, does not necessarily mean it meets the vehicle manufacturers recommendations.

I really have no opinion of Amsoil's products, so I was trying to inject a bit of objectivity into the discussion.

carnut17 · May 2006

hey magbarn i got a kick out of the peoples republic of calif. i find it strange how you can go out and buy a dodge cummins,gmc duramax or a ford powerstroke brand new but a vw turbo diesel is not allowed in calif. NOW THATS BUTT BACKWARDS; so domestic diesels which do polute are allowed in calif. but foriegn diesels which don't pollute are not allowed. i think our oil companies and gen. motors are hard at work trying to please each other. an example is the $1.99/gal gas for one year if you buy a domestic gas guzler like the surburban, monte carlo, tahoe etc. this $1.99 gas woudln't be possible unless they were lobbying for each other. its a MAD,MAD WORLD

gagrice · May 2006

You will have to buy it and license in AZ until it has 7500 miles on it. It is best to wait a year and save on sales tax. I would buy in my parents name to avoid getting nailed for out of state tags. Funny I bought a Passat TDI to drive and sell here in CA. The first caller on my ad was from AZ and he bought it. They are hot sellers for sure.

carnut17 · May 2006

i just bought a 03 tdi the oil filt. canister cap is difficult to screw on even before the o ring seal comes in contact with the aluminum canister; why is this? it drives me nuts because it feels like im striping the threads and it's also difficult to know how far to tighten it. are they all like this whats going on

gagrice · May 2006

AMSoil website has specific recommendations for the VW tdi.

That is part of the problem. You cannot use the same oil in the VW TDI PD as the other TDI engines. Why would you want to take a chance with non specific oil when the manual specifies a certain type? It is not worth the hassle. Most people buy into the VW TDI knowing they have to use special oil that is not available in your local WalMart.

ruking1 · May 2006

Yes pretty much.

The actual torque is 18# ft of torque if you care to be precise. There is a special tool: cap wrench. Or you can get those multi sized plastic types or use a strap wrench.

In lieu of 18# ft of torque, some folks just tighten it enough to be able to remove it the next time.

carnut17 · May 2006

ruking1 it takes 20ftlb's of force on the first turn of the oil filt.canister cap; that is just to get it started. i think it is just an engineering mishap. at least it is easy to get to RIGHT look at the good side

ruking1 · June 2006

I change mine every 25,000 miles so. This comes out to app once per year. I usually have to take a moment or two to run through the task in my mind. I also use a evacuator so the total oil and filter change usually takes 10 min or less. This is far easier and less mess than any of my other 4 cars.

carnut17 · June 2006

using an evacuator is an excellent idea; i wonder if it gets the sludge out from the bottom of the oil pan. i heard from someone you should remove and clean the oil pan every 50,000 miles. i know this was true with my mercedes 300d, does anyone know if this applies to the vw tdi's thanks for your input ruking1

ruking1 · June 2006

The short answer is no: to the "clean the oil pan every 50,000 miles" question. Sludge if the correct oil is used is NOT an issue.

We had a MB 300D (non turbo) in the family at one time. Since the dealership was a client at the time, the maintainance was done by them. The car has long since been sold.

I am truly amazed at the new TDI technologies.

magbarn · June 2006

I'm still trying to find a way to purchase a brand new 06 Jetta TDI. My parents home in Tucson, AZ is a 2nd home so therefore they both have CA licenses. I've called EVERY single AZ dealer and they all seem to know about the diesel regs. None of them will sell me a Jetta TDI unless me or my parents have an AZ license. This is just getting ridiculous. I think I might just cave in and buy a Honda Civic instead. These bi-weekly fillups of $65 on my 'blazer is KILLING me. :mad:

carnut17 · June 2006

RUKING i also am amazed at the improvements they have made compared to my old 300D turbo M.B. the TDI doesn't smoke, smell or vibrate as much and actually has more power inspite of a smaller motor. however, i would still love to have my old 300D back just because they are so easy to convert to biodiesel and for other reasons which i won't get into because this is a tdi forum and not a M.B. forum

carnut17 · June 2006

MAGBARN i also wanted a 06 TDI it became such a hassle that i finally waited for a good used one which i found at carmax. it is an 03 so i missed out on the new design but i still love the car. you will also save a few bucks.

magbarn · June 2006

This is the crap that gets me depressed:
Ridicously priced Jetta in CA Doesn't even come with Navi!
These cars sell for more used than new in other states. 10 grand buys alot of gas over the civic.

gagrice · June 2006

I sold my Passat TDI Wagon too cheap at $29k. I could have held out for at least $31k. And it went from CA to AZ. The Passat Wagon is much more rare than a common Jetta TDI. You could buy a new Civic for a lot less. It would give you good mileage. I would say the only big difference is the handling of the VW is far superior to the Civic.

carnut17 · June 2006

the civic is a good car but the jetta crash tests score quite high, especially for side impact AND THATS IMPORTANT FOR A COMPACT CAR

elias · June 2006

gagrice, $29k for a passat TDI!? mine's not a wagon but maybe i should consign mine with you! it's an 05 with no leather, blue, with moonroof, 42k miles. just hypothetically what do you think it would go for!?
to that california dude , supposedly an exemption to the buy-new-tdi rule is if you drive a crapbox out of state and it just happens to break down in front of the TDI dealer. you get TDI dealer to sign a thing that crapbox has died and would cost more to repair than it's worth. then you bring that document and your new TDI to CA DMV and they let you register it! or so i've heard.

gagrice · June 2006

True on the break down & buying a TDI. I don't know if I would take the chance of getting by the DMV.

Selling your Passat TDI is easier than you think. I had dozens of calls with sad voices on the other end when I told them the first person bought it cash.

Mine was about as loaded as they come. GLS with Leather, 17" wheels with the MX4 tires. I bought it to sell. I paid about a grand under invoice April of 2005. I kept it out of parking lots as much as possible so it had no door dings. I had two people tell me I sold it too cheap. Never heard that before.

I think with your sedan without leather you could get $26k pretty easily. You are very close to the 50k mile warranty and that may scare a few buyers. If you like the car and will be getting something to replace it you may be better off keeping it. I miss mine, at times. I also like having the $29k back in the bank and no insurance premium to pay. For me the insurance premium will pay for my PU truck gas for the year. I wanted to see for myself how the VW TDI cars ran. I would buy again if the prices were right. I can see me getting a Beetle with the DSG transmission and TDI. My wife likes the Beetle.

elias · June 2006

hello Georgia Grice ! thanks for the passat-tdi sale info.
hmm, maybe Georgia is not where you got your name here and you are indicating your preference for wheat beer over annheuser busch rice beer.
coincidence re your wife's beetle idea: my wife test drove beetle TDI DSG last week - we take delivery in a few days.

gagrice · June 2006

G.A. first initials. Yes wife thinks the beetle is cute. I would be the one wanting the DSG TDI. No chance to test one in CA. Have to go to another state. Keep us posted on how you like it.

carnut17 · June 2006

I have a 03 jetta tdi is the fuel filt. a big deal to replace, does the fuel inj. need to be primed afterward? i also was wondering if i need to drain the water from the filt. every few thousand miles; or is this nessesary. i don't have an owners manual or serv. man. dont ask why, long story. i would appreciate some feedback if anybody knows out there. thanks

sebring95 · June 2006

It's pretty easy. Pull off hoses (clamp the ones with liquid) pull the pin on top, and yank the filter out. Priming makes things easier, but you'll just have to crank it a bit to get it to start afterward without a priming. I've never found more than dribbles of water in the filter even after 20k miles. Unless you have reason to believe you have some bad fuel (and you'll know it) most agree the water drain is unnecessary. If you search around for other TDI sites, there's one with a video of how to change the filter. I've had posts deleted for linking to the other site, so you're on your own finding it. Shouldn't be hard though

bpeebles · June 2006

If you have an "oil sucker" for replacing the oil, It can be used to prime the new fuel-filter. Just connect up the hoses to the fuel-tank and your sucker to the "outlet" of the filter. Plug the remaining nipple with your finger and pump the sucker until you see fuel coming out of the filter twards the sucker.

Now, the fuel-filter housing is full of fuel and ready to go.

dolphin · June 2006

Really no need to do this...simply cycle the ignition key several times, do not crank, just cycle the key...the fuel pumps runs for a second or so everytime, and this will re-fill the filter.

bfred · June 2006

I have a 2000 Golf Diesel--during the past month, I go out n am and try to start the car--get no noise--just a clicking sound and dash lights flash--no start. It will take a jump after cables stay on for 10 min. the car then starts perfectly for the next few days. Then repeats. The other morning--didn't even get a click when I turned the keys--the clock had stopped--yet it took a jump and has started since. Have taken it to two dealers who say battery holds charge, no drain on battery, starts every time they try it--has new battery, but still has same trouble. Anybody have any ideas? thanks,

elias · June 2006

i think the clicking you hear is the starter solenoid clicking/binding. lights dim because all the current is going to the solenoid, trying to kick out the starter gear to connect with the flywheel. and instead of moving, the solenoid is sticking while drawing substantial current. possibly rapping on the starter with a crowbar would unstick it - that worked on old american cars with similar symptom.. on some cars the starter solenoid is integrated with the starter motor. i bet that a new solenoid and/or starter motor would eliminate the problem.
on the other hand, my ideas above are so basic that i'm surprised the two shops you tried already apparently have not considered starter/solenoid.

bpeebles · June 2006

Lets recap the symptoms you are seeing;
*)no start condition exibits low batty is cause
*)Jumper cables will recharge the battery enough for engine to start OK.
*)Battery is "dead" again after a few days
*)Dealer has checked battery itself to be OK.

Your description is CLASSIC condition of the charging system not working up to snuff. I have a charging-system checker from Wallmart (under $20) that plugs into the ciggerete-lighter socket. It allows me to monitor the actual voltage of the system under all driving conditions.

I would suggest you invest in one of these things and make sure that the voltage is AT LEAST 13.5 Volts at all times the engine is running (even when lights are on)

I am thinking you will find the voltage is too low under some conditions thus the battery is discharging. This can be caused by several factors from a slipping belt or poor connection somwhere...to a faulty alternator.

vwinva · June 2006

I am hearing a deep baritone diesel noise when I am running the A/C. Quits when I turn the A/C off. My mechanic tells me it's the A/C compressor. This is an occasional item so he says let it ride. How much damage can the compressor cause if I let it fail?

bpeebles · June 2006

Can we assume that NOONE has attempted to "recharge" your AC system. (because the use of incorrect freon could damage the system)

To answer your question more directly. If you "let the comprossor fail" it will likely distribute metal particals throughout the AC sysem. If these are not dealt with, they can quickly destroy a new compressor.

Most HVAC experts will tell you that when a compressor fails, the entire system needs to be 'flushed' and the accumulator/dryer should be replaced. (because most of the metal particals end up in it)

Karen_S · June 2006

A large local newspaper is looking to interview consumers who recently purchased a diesel vehicle and would like to talk about their car. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Thursday June 22, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information and the make and model of your car.

Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

vwinva · June 2006

Part 2 to the question. Is there any difference between the A/C compressor for a gas Jetta and the TDI?

Volkswagen TDI Models

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