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Experience with e-mail only negotiations?
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The Real-World Trade-In Values forum on this web site does exactly that- and is 31,300 posts strong now!
Just check the following one out, which I have pasted in text format from one local dealer's website.
Contact informtation
First Name:
Last Name:
Address:
City:
State Issued: (choose one)
Zip:
(Area Code) Daytime Phone:
EMail:
Vehicle information
Year:
Make:
Model
Doors choose one: 2 Door 4 Door Hatchback
Trim Level (if known)
Interior Color
Exterior Color
Cylinders
Liters
Mileage:
Vehicle Identification No.:
Transmission choose one: Automatic Manual
Lien Holder
Estimated Payoff
Vehicle options
AM/FM Radio choose one: Yes No
Cassette choose one: Yes No
CD choose one: Yes No
CD Changer choose one: No In Dash External
Power Windows choose one: Yes No
Power Locks choose one: Yes No
A/C choose one: Yes No
Rear A/C choose one: Yes No
ABS choose one: Yes No
Cruise Control choose one: Yes No
Tilt Control choose one: Yes No
Roof Rack choose one: Yes No
Sunroof choose one: No Sliding Pop-up
Alloy Wheels choose one: Yes No
Drive Train choose one: 4WD AWD FWD RWD
Tow Package choose one: Yes No
Dual Air Bags choose one: Yes No
Side Air Bags choose one: Yes No
Power Seat(s) choose one: No Driver Pass Both
Leather Seating choose one: Yes No
Overall Vehicle Condition
Rate the condition of the following: 1 being Poor, 10 being Excellent.
Metal/Paint (Scratches, dings, dents, rust, fading) choose one:
Tires (50% tread wear - replacement) choose one: Upholstery (Tears, burns, stains) choose one:
Glass (Fractures, spiders, chips) choose one:
Clutch (Clutch slipping) choose one or n/a:
Brakes (Squeaky, noisy) choose one:
Collision History
Has your vehicle ever been involved in a collision? choose one: yes no
If yes, was a Body Shop estimate of repairs written? choose one: n/a yes no
Were Body Shop repairs performed? choose one: n/a yes no
Was the vehicle repaired to your complete satisfaction? choose one: n/a yes no
Exterior Condition
Are any of the painted surfaces scratched, rusted, or faded? choose one: yes no
Are there any dents and dings? choose one: yes no
Have any of the painted surfaces been repainted or touched up? choose one: yes no
Does any of the glass have fractures, spiders, or chips? choose one: yes no
Interior Condition
Does the upholstery have tears, burns, or stains? choose one: yes no
Does the stereo system or any of its components need repairs? choose one: yes no
Do all of the gauges and dash functions work? choose one: yes no
Mechanical Condition
Does the engine need any repairs? choose one: yes no
Does the transmission need any repairs? choose one: yes no
Is the clutch slipping or need any repairs? choose one: n/a yes no
Are the brakes squeaking or in need of repair? choose one: yes no
Has the transmission or engine ever been replaced? choose one: yes no
Questionnaire
Has the vehicle ever been a taxi, rental car, or police car? choose one: yes no
Has the vehicle ever been in water deeper than the midpoint of the tires? choose one: yes no
Has the vehicle ever been declared a "Flood" vehicle? choose one: yes no
Is the vehicle's frame in need of repair? choose one: yes no
Has your vehicle's frame ever been repaired? choose one: yes no
Has the vehicle ever had a salvage title? choose one: yes no
Is this a "lemon law buyback" vehicle choose one: Yes NO
Has the vehicle ever been declared a total loss? choose one: yes no
Is the vehicle air bag in working order? choose one: yes no
Has the vehicle air bag ever been deployed? choose one: yes no
Do you have any of the service records for this vehicle? choose one: yes no
Do you have records for any oil change within the last 5000 miles? choose one: yes no
Is the catalytic converter attached and working properly? choose one: yes no
Are the inspection stickers current? choose one: yes no
Has the spare tire ever been used? choose one: yes no
Do any of the tires need to be replaced? choose one: yes no
Is the pollution control equipment attached and working properly? choose one: yes no
Is there anything else we should know about this vehicle?
Isell, you mean to say that you couldn't give a value based off of the above questionnaire (filled in completely of course, you can even run a CarFax off the VIN to confirm), with a simple disclaimer such as "assuming your trade is as-described..." ?
I don't know why it's a big deal to simply drive to a dealership?
" Has the spare tire ever been used?"What a dumb question!
I doubt if anybody would have the patience to fill up such a questionaire. I know I sure wouldn't!
Now, if you don’t have a trade-in, of course you could instead just look up the new car’s invoice price online and head in to the nearest dealer with an offer in mind (a.k.a. “the Bobst method”). This is quick and usually painless.
The reality, however, is that the majority of new car buyers have trades. And, if one dealers’ new car quote is $400 less than all the others, but they are $900 less on the trade value, then the buyer has lost money overall by purchasing there. From the posts on this board it seems unreasonable to expect a trade-in value from the dealer over the Internet. So are these buyers supposed to go through the whole process (including trade-in appraisal) at 3-4 dealers before buying?
As I stated before, the trade-in value doesn’t have to be set in stone; a simple disclaimer would do. I think that Terry and other experts in “Real-World Trade-In Values” would write a check for one of the cars they appraise, assuming it was as described and met their approval before they actually handed the money over. I mean, it's not like the dealer has to cut a check before the customer ever comes in and they get a look. What's wrong with a good faith estimate? (By the way, I filled out the trade-in form I posted earlier, and it took less than five minutes).
My main point is: if buyers don’t know how to use consumer books like KBB and Edmunds TMV (all “excellent” condition, etc) or the values from such sources are high or low on a certain model, and dealers won’t quote values based on their dealer books, sales histories, and / or auction prices, then how is that buyer to know they are getting top dollar, “all the money” for their trade? Should they go to CarMax (if one is available) for an appraisal before going to the dealer of their choice to have something to judge the dealer’s trade offer by, or what?
It would be a shame that, with all of the information available today, when hundreds of cars are bought ‘sight unseen’ off of eBay every day, and when some dealers are finally starting to embrace online negotiating on their cars; that a consumer cannot use the online negotiating process if they have a trade-in.
Are we are back to square one, as you say, “I don't know why it's a big deal to simply drive to a dealership?” (Do you mean, why would you want to use the Internet when you can just trust the dealer?)
From an email quote: “We sell all of our new vehicles at GM factory invoice plus $49. We do not have any dealer fees of any kind”.
This dealer ( Rodes in Sylva, NC ) offered me over $1,000 more for my trade than anyone local. He offered the allowance, “assuming condition is as represented”. It was, and the deal was consummated in about a half hour. After I took a 10 minute “shake down” drive in the GXP. It took me about 1.5 hours to drive to Sylva and 1.5 to return, but I knew that all was settled before I started the drive!
Trade:
The NC Dealer offered me almost $1,500 more than any local dealer I tried to do business with . .
Sight unseen - based on my description of the car.
Confirmed when presented.
Now, my car was near perfect. . .
By that I mean:
No mechanical issues.
Just checked for tire wear, brake wear, etc.
Proof of all Dealer service. (Local Dealer)
Exterior = Perfect. Not even a single door ding.
Interior = Perfect. No wear, scratches, etc.
One and only trade allowance number the NC Dealer offered was within a couple hundred dollars of KBB and Edmunds number.
“I don't know why it's a big deal to simply drive to a dealership?”
One reason that I generally avoid spending much time at any dealership is that many of their typical tactics ( still employed after all these years at many dealerships ) are designed to keep you there until they wear you down. Various versions of the classic “bump” tactic, for one example. They want me to make the first “offer”. I find this tiresome and annoying and a waste of my time.
Salesperson: Make your best offer.
I will then decide if that meets what I want to pay.
If not, I move on.
End of story.
My “local” Corvette dealer salesperson ( by far the largest Corvette inventory anywhere near Atlanta ) allowed me \ even encouraged me to test drive 2 new C6s. I am therefore willing to sit down with that salesperson, as requested. But the ‘sitting’ will be brief. I already know exactly what their “fees” are, so there are 2 numbers to determine. 1) The lowest amount they will accept for a new ( ordered ) 2007 equipped to an MSRP of approx $52.5K, and 2) their allowance offer on my trade. If they do not meet my expectation, I have a GMID Certificate & I will buy from the Dealer close to where my Mom lives that will accept GMID on a new Corvette. 1-way flight & drive back home. ( I am aware that in Georgia, there are specific sales tax implications trade vs. straight purchase with no trade. I would prefer to purchase my new Corvette locally, and have the service performed at that same dealership. And that scenario has a dollar value to me. )
I will no longer play any Dealership games. I am well aware that I will not “out-negotiate” someone that negotiates price on cars all day every day, and has for years – where ( well informed as I try to be ) I only do this once every 2 years or so.
YMMV.
- Ray
Close to ordering . . .
I see what you want, it just isn't realistic.
I think people would get highballed on their trade values in order to get them to come in etc.
I like fast, easy deals too. I am VERY busy and don't have the time to play games.
In what way, exactly?
- Ray
Very, very curious.....
I would not have the patience to read such a long questionaire, let alone fill it up.
It must be the old "why would you want to use the internet when you can just trust the dealer?"
So - what DOES it have to do with?
Ideas?
So - the real world example from last year that I posted here is irrelevant?
I don't understand. I am willing to listen, if you'll post some reasons why you think that it would not work? At least for you & for your dealership.
Having seen it work first hand, I really don't understand your response....
Please?
- Ray
Confused................
I have already posted the reasons but I will do so again.
Some (most)people overstate the condition of their trades.
And some dealers will tell the customer what they want to hear to get them in. Then the story will change.
" Oh, I didn't know your trade has a strong dog odor"
" Oh, I must have looked on the wrong line in the NADA book"
" I didn't realize your trade was a 5 speed...sorry, I must have missed that".
In a perfect world, your "remote control" method of buying a car would work and sometimes it very well could work but there are pitfalls.
Of course some dealers will give the customer the trade value they want to hear to get them in, then the story will change. But it should not happen any more than with new car quotes without a trade involved:
" Oh, I must have looked at the wrong invoice. "
" Oh, I thought you wanted a 5 speed in your new car, sorry. "
" We just sold the car I quoted, but over here we have one you'll really want. "
Just because some of that goes on, doesn't mean that the Internet doesn't work for most people. More and more people are proving that it does.
We just need more dealers and salespeople who are open to going all (or at least most) of the way, as I described in my first post.
Or else, as I asked before, what are the people with trade-ins supposed to do, if they either don't know how to use the information available to them, or the books are wrong? It is impractical to try and get 3 or 4 dealers to appraise their car in person so that they will know they aren't getting fleeced.
Internet quotes just seems like a good solution.
I don't know if it would ever fly, but what if someone came up with a similar company that could go around offering independent appraisals on used vehicles, at least to get an idea of what to expect at the dealership? I guess the dealerships would have to decide whether to recognize these values, but could always negotiate them one way or another, depending on their current inventory needs, etc. Just a thought, feel free to rip it to shreds, it's early here, haven't had my caffeine yet
A lot of dealers have websites that give their inventories. You could try checking them.
Going to a dealer in person is very painless if you first determine the exact out-the-door price you are willing to pay. Then go to the dealer and make that offer contingent on you liking the car after a test drive.
If they don't accept your offer within 5-10 minutes, then leave. If they accept, then take the car for a test drive. If you like it, then pay for it and drive it home.
Sure, you might get a better deal if you or your kids are skilled at negotiation, but my way is simple and easy for those of us who don't know how to negotiate.
Have all you pricing information with you. Test drive the vehicle first. Then if you like the car you can make an offer.
Getting an e-mail price from a dealership can be done, though for most people that post here it is a rare occurance. Most dealerships use the "free e-mail pricing" as a gimmick to bring in the foot traffic.
You could always go to a dealership and get the vin number from a car you like. Then e-mail the dealership and ask for their best price. They may take you a little more seriously if they see you've put some effort into the process.
I would agree that it is likely not worth your time to repeatedly contact any dealership or ( supposed ) "Internet Salesperson".
If they do not respond, they are likely not really interested in doing business via the 'net.
My experience has been that the individual dealership sales people reflect the management and \ or ownership priorities and desired sales process. ( Much like most businesses. )
If they do not even respond, they are likely designated as an "Internet Salesperson", but they have not really bought into the concept.
You do not state what make \ model you have decided on – but as stated above, there are online manufacturer resources that can often provide information about inventory, etc.
If no dealer locally will even respond to your inquiry, and you stated in the contact emails exactly what you want and the fact that you are going to buy it, you might also inquire by telephone if their Internet “guy” ( or girl ) will provide the information you are looking for via FAX.
Again, you do not state exactly what you have asked for in your contacts. If you have no vehicle to trade, and what you want is their best price on a specific configuration, I suppose I am not surprised that they do not respond if they do not have exactly the combination of colors & options you specify. As you are probably aware, automobile salespeople are almost always pushed ( hard ) by management to sell what they have “on the lot”.
Most US manufacturers and many Asian brands handle very few “custom Built to Order” vehicles. ( Corvette, for example, is one exception here. ) One reason that the level of inventory at so many dealerships is so large is precisely to try to meet most potential purchasers’ needs. So that they can deliver “it” today. And have your money – today. Not in 7 – 10 weeks.
Posting more information here may result in more helpful replies . . .
- Ray
Close ( still ) to custom ordering . . .
What make and model are you considering and what region of the country are you located?
Your getting alot of good advice from some folks on here. Is the car you want in high demand and low supply? maybe this is why the dealers are not being so helpful???
Cars are commodities where they are basically the same and can differentiated by the exact option set. Include all info in your request right down to the MSRP and make sure that maker actually offers the options you want. The automaker's site will have those details.
If you get no response, send a reminder or call and quickly move on... expand your area to 100... 200 miles. Get the lowest quote and if you want to take (or call or email) that into your local place and ask them to match it. If they are not close, start driving! 100 miles return trip can be valued at expenses plus cost of your own (and friend's) 3 hours or half a day!? You can sign and even send out all the paperwork before you leave your home just make sure that you are getting a low milage unit (a typical vehicle arrives at the dealership with under 10 miles). The other trick is to agree on taking a unit out of the supply chain and not from the lot!
All this also assumes that you are willing to sell your used vehicle (which you should do any way) or already have a reasonable quote from a place like carmax.
Shipping is also an option that has worked well from me. Think outside the BOX! Unbundle as much of the transaction as you can and then it will become much easier to realize some cost savings.
I have three company drivers (executives) who are getting a new car next month. On Monday, they sent me what they "had to have." One wanted a Chrysler Town and Country. The second a 300C with the Hemi, the third wanted a Jeep Cherokee Laredo with a sunroof. Are you sure that is what you want me to order? "YES."
One of my rules is that I buy NO cars until the driver has visited the showroom and taken a test drive.
The three drivers went up to the Chrysler dealership on Tuesday. And on Wednesday. And on Thursday.
Right now, I have three orders for Chrysler Aspens from those drivers.
The Jeep Cherokee was "too rough" a ride. The Town and Country "didn't have enough power." And the Aspen was the "TOTAL PACKAGE."
Most people have NO clue as to what they really want until they have taken a long test drive.
The BUYER has control of the WHOLE purchase process in that the BUYER can walk at ANY TIME in the process. If the dealership lies, leave. If they add in a bunch of unnecessary features, leave. If they don't treat you with respect, leave.
Initial contact was via email.
Second contact – to set a date & time for test drives – via email.
Arrived at dealer & test drove 2 – with the different suspension options I was deciding between.
Discounted price = too high at that time.
Me: “Thanks – I will be in touch when you can discount a 2007 by substantially more.”
This was before the first 2007s had arrived at dealers. . .
Various intervening email updates on availability and evolving discounts.
Email 8 days ago had the discount I had targeted. For an “in-stock” unit.
I responded via email asking what the discount would be on an ordered 2007 at this time, as none in stock or inbound met my specifications.
Although initially, the answer was $500 less discount – when I was non-commital, and drove to the dealership, the final discount was actually the same as quoted for an in stock unit.
So – I am waiting for it to be built. Expected delivery in approx 6 weeks from signing the order – 5 weeks from today.
Since I needed to test drive the cars ( I had never driven a current model Corvette, and needed to test the new 6 speed automatic’s paddle shift as well as various individual aspects of how I fit in a much lower car than the last several sedans I’ve driven, etc. – as well as compare the suspensions ) I needed to visit the dealer for that stage.
Since I wanted a highly specific set of options – and specifically did not want the Z51 performance suspension that they order on 95+% of their units for stock – I needed to sign the order and leave a deposit. They would not want one equipped like mine for their inventory.
- Ray
Counting the weeks and the days . . .
Regards
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible