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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Comments

  • fenris99fenris99 Member Posts: 16
    I will check that. Thank you for the information.
  • mzuniga11mzuniga11 Member Posts: 1
    I have 18 k miles on my o4 odyssey. The TCS+check engine light came on the couple of days ago. Took it to the dealer. A rodent had chewed through the sensor wire. The new wire is rodent resistant. $6.50 for the wire + 4 hrs labout at $85 and hour. Honda won't cover, anyone know if there is a recall. Thanks.
  • golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    I had issues twice with some critter in my garage on my Oldsmobile Aurora. Each time GM covered it under the warranty.

    I would keep pressing the issue?

    How do they know it was a rodent and not something unrelated? Do they some sort of of entemology training that they can verify it was a rodent? The mere fact they have replaced the wire with one that is resistent indicates there is a problem.

    Talk to servie, call Honda, don't take NO for an answer. 4 hours seems excessive. It took about 1/2 of that time on my Olds. I know- I waited.

    Then after you get this resolved. I would work on your garage and repair any holes and install some door trims.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    You're welcome - report the results back.
  • georgetoogeorgetoo Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone know how to remove the coin tray/drink holder?
    (2003 Ody but probably all the same)
    A important small document was sitting on mine and the tray was pushed in. Consequence...important document either in back of or under coin tray... Appreciate any input ....thanks george

    PS I surely can't be the only one this has happened to?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    with the tray pulled out to full extent, i believe you will find an area on the underside of the tray where a flat screwdriver pushed in will release the tray and allow it to be pulled out completely.
  • bentleyodybentleyody Member Posts: 1
    When driving, one of the power doors (I believe it's psgr side) will briefly beep if you hit the brakes kind of hard. It will also randomly happen when driving...driving down the road and you'll get a quick "beep" and then it stops.

    Not sure where to start -- help!?!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Begin with making sure that the 11 pin contact block is making good electrical connection. This is what tells the logic system if the door is closed properly, and may be triggering the alarm.

    Check alignment. The 'marks' from the pointy door pins should be centered on the silver pillar circles. If not, then something is out of skew. Use a pencil eraser to clean both sides until they are shiny. Don't use anything more harsh as it could scratch and damage the platings.

    Clean and relube all of the rubber door seals with Shin-Etsu grease (Honda parts counter, around $14 for a tube). Tight seals both quell door motions when you drive, and make the van substantially quieter and more enjoyable to be in.

    Try these basics first...

    Steve
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    update: had to do it this weekend to the cup holder in the dash. i found that a thin flat blade screwdriver inserted horizontally just underneath the holder pulled way out was the best way to go. a tiny bit of applied torque and the holder was free. someone shining a light just below the cupholder towards the dash is helpful. when lying on the driver's seat and looking at the dash, just underneath the holder, pull the cup holder out and push it back in; you'll see where there is a small metal tab in the middle of the bottom of the holder, preventing pulling it all the way out. it will be obvious what to do next. me? 7+7. ;)

    hope it helps.
  • georgetoogeorgetoo Member Posts: 10
    USER777

    I'll try that tomorrow. Fooled with it today for about a half hour but could not get the right combo. Felt that metal thingy though. Tried pushing on it to no avail.

    Thanks alot.....george
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yep, i had seen somewhere where you're supposed to go in with a flat-blade screwdriver from underneath (perpendicular? to the cup holder) possibly with the lower storage bin open, but i couldn't get that to work with 30->45min of fiddling with the thing...

    so i decided to go the other route (in from the front and horizontal with the screwdriver just below the cup holder). with the flashlight, you'll see the metal clip holding back the cup holder from being completely removed.

    then it's simply a matter of adjusting the angle of the screwdriver to get the metal clip to clear the surrounding metal while pulling the cup holder completely out.

    when putting it back in, you'll have to do the screwdriver trick again so the metal clip get's back to where it needs to be so you can completely push the holder back in.

    as i mentioned, the 7+7 helped alot. ;
  • madmountenmadmounten Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to see if anyone else has the same problem as I do, and yours might be it. Does or did your radio/cd player just shut off and on randomly, sometimes remaining off for days? Is it a lose wire, and did youfix it or Honda? Thanks
  • indyerfindyerf Member Posts: 1
    Hope this helps someone,

    We have a '95 ODY w/ 142K+ miles. Driver's side window started having problems sticking in the down position - not a problem during the summer, but not fun in a midwest January. Window would roll up after shutting car off. Found the solenoid on the drivers window that held the switch for the 'auto down' feature was sticking and not releasing. Instead of spending the money to replace it, took apart the switch controller and removed the little plastic bar that connects the finger switch to the solenoid. Window works fine now, but we have to hold the switch like the other windows - no more auto down. Seemed like a good trade off to get the window working without spending any money.
  • lcvulcanlcvulcan Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 Odyssey developed a rear brake squeal when braking at slow speed. Then yesterday there was a sound like I had run over something and it was dragging under the car. ( Low speed braking again)

    After removing the wheel I discovered that the drum edge, where it slides under the backing plate, had corroded significantly and was making contact with the backing plate. After chiseling off the high parts and wire brushing it the noises have ceased.

    Hope this helps and if it has been covered my apologies.
  • auto2000kauto2000k Member Posts: 10
    Anyone know what the specifications on Honda's Rust Warranty are? I just purchased a 2000 EX and 3-wks ago the 5yr warranty expired. It's got 2 tiny rust spots. One one the rear, driver's side wheel well and another 3-inches from that. Honda inspected it and said it would not be covered because it was due to an impact in the paint that was not repaired. They also stated that the rust did not look like it was coming from inside. Bottom line, they declined the repair.

    Upon my inspection, it appears that the paint chipped in one tiny spot, about the size of a pen tip and the rust spread. I've had chipped paint before, but rust starts from that and spreads that quickly?

    Does anyone know if the rust warranty is specific to what caused the rust to start or is it just a general coverage? The warranty manual does not specify.

    Since the warranty expired less than a month ago I will argue with Honda about it if it's a general rust warranty covering any rust on the vehicle. I just don't know anything about these things.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    The rust warranty applies only to rust that has perforated the panel. If it is rust from chipped paint, that isn't covered.

    All the details are at www.ahm-ownerlink.com
  • golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    This is generally why I do not buy warranties, tire- road hazard etc. Because, I know the aggrivation of trying to collect and discovering the "exceptions" would drive my batty.

    Sure, I may loose out on A tire or A car, but my guess is over my life I am just better off to pass on "special" warranties.
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    I don't get Consumer Reports. From what I have read on Consumer Reports at the library I did not see anything on tires that directly dealt with the Honda Odyssey. Where did you get the list of their top tires for the Odyssey?
    I am currently searching for the right tire for my 2002. Customer reviews in 1010Tires and the TireRack show the Symmetry to be crap. I have the Symmetry, 2nd set with 1/2 mileage and 70,000 (42,000 miles) kilometers on them. The pavement is getting hard!
    Peter
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada
  • nojonesnojones Member Posts: 13
    The dealer says that there is a technical Service Bulletin on this issue and they have to replace the radio.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    You need to go back to the 'root' post originating with another Steve, GOLIC. I think he mentioned some top rated tires from the November issue of CR, but not specifically with the Ody in mind.

    Steve
  • golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    If you go to the tirerack.com you can review a tire and filter the reviews by Make/Model. So you can see what other Ody owners think, Look into these tires:

    GoodYear assurance Triple Tred
    Yokohama AVID TRZ
    Michelin X Radial DT (sold only at shopping clubs)
    Bridgestone Turanza LST

    They all have pro's and con's. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the above choices.

    by golic who would rather buy a used car than go tire shopping.
  • monica314monica314 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 1999 odyssey and at 34,000 I needed a new transmission. I now have 93,000 and it is bucking and surging and down shifting very hard. When I took it in they said it needed a new mount on the engine. Well that worked for about a day. The steering is very hard too. I am going to take it in tomorrow 2/31/06

    I am curious to know what they said about your when you took it in.

    Thanks
    Monica
  • monica314monica314 Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same jerking problem with my 1999 odssey. It jerks and then surges. I am curious to find out what the problem was with your.

    Monica
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    there is a TSB at least for the '03 on the possibility for clogged EGR ports. I can't seem to locate it at the moment, but that could result in the behavior you are experiencing.
  • ewblancewblanc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 and in the 3rd row you can have three car seats. I only have one anchor that I would have to move to the other position everytime I more the car seats. Were can I get two other anchors for the top tether strap for the 3rd row? :)
  • redrock150redrock150 Member Posts: 1
    My 05 EXL with 10400 miles went in for a small oil leak on 3-10-06. It has been in the shop for the last 23 days.

    Well today, 4-3-2006, my dealer finally called me to let me know that my van was "ready" to be picked up. This is the first I have heard from my dealer since I spoke with the service manager on 3-14-06. I have NOT HEARD from my dealer or been given an update in over 20 DAYS. My wife and I have v-mail on our cells and at home and we received no messages...nothing.

    When I asked the service writer what they did to my car, he said "NEW SHORT BLOCK". I said so you but a new engine in it, he said "yes". There was a "problem with the casting".

    They replaced block, pistons, crank, and bearings etc. Pieced everything else.. cam, heads, tranny back together.

    I told him that I told the service manager and him that wanted to be informed informed before anything was done to my car and that I had not heard a peep from them in 20 days.

    I also said I would not pick the van up from the dealership until a Honda representative calls me to discuss this issue with me.

    I also just called Honda customer service at 800-999-1009. The person I spoke with was not sympathetic at all. He said Honda fulfilled its responsibility...fixed my car. He marked my case as urgent and said he would have a Honda regional rep. contact me within 2 days.

    I am not planning to pick up the car until I work this out with Honda. I did not spend this much money to end up with a car with 11k miles and a rebuilt engine.

    This definitely degrades the value of my car. If I sell it I can say, "Oh the van has 11k miles , but the engine only has 10"... I'm sure potential buyers would love that.

    I not satisfied with a new vehicle with a rebuilt engine. At the factory, they put these together everyday. It's assembled and torqued correctly etc.. I'm just not comfortable with this level of engine rebuild and part reassembly being done by my local dealer. I've heard of all kinds of issues in the past from thrown rods, poor performance etc as the result of a rebuild.

    I would like for Honda to offer a buyback or free replacement. I purchased a Honda so I would not have to go through this type of problem.

    Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    They had the car for over 3 weeks and you never CALLED to see what the prognosis was on a small oil leak?
  • px260px260 Member Posts: 42
    I have an 03 EXL with 50k miles, when I am driving on level street, 50-55 mph, around 1,500 rpm, the transmission seems to make a humming sound, at the same time, I can feel some slight vibration on the steering wheel as well. Does anyone know of a potential problem and solution? Thank you for your reply.
  • wimwim Member Posts: 1
    Own a 2000 Honda odyssey. Around 6 months ago we noticed a popping/creaking noise with some vibration in the steering column and sometimes you can feel it at your feet when the van is turned to the right at slow speeds. It was brought to the dealership and the strut was replaced thinking this was the issue. The issue was not resolved with the replacement of the strut and the van was brought back three times and given a through work-through before we were told that this problem seems to be inherent to the 2000 models. No one seemed to know what was the matter. Anyone else out there who owns this model ever have this problem? Can anyone shed light on this issue?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Sounds like a binding CV joint to me, yet you would think that the dealer would have checked this early on.
  • davidmcdavidmc Member Posts: 2
    I need to replace one of the rear break lights (the driver side) on my Honda Odessy 2003. The owner's manual says there are 3 screws. I could only find 2 of them (under the tailgate door). I have unscrewed the 2 screws but the panel does not slide out. I am sure there is one more screw, but I cannot find it. Please help! Thanks!
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    I believe, after all your input (and I greatfully thank all of you), that I will purchase the Michelin Symmetry 225/60T16 98T. The only other well-known tires with the 98T rating are the Bridgestone Potenza RE92 and the Yokohama AVID TRZ. Although some Honda and Tire dealers recommend that I could go down to a 97T or 97S it's not recommended by Honda, Michelin or Consumer Reports. I have read the reader reviews on Edumnds and customer reviews on 1010Tires.com, TireRack.com and odyclub.com.
  • rhondahondarhondahonda Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find an answer to this issue? I have the very same issue on my 99 odyssey and 2 children who want to hear some music! :) It happened the morning after a lightning storm. Any help???
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    did you check the fuse for the radio circuit?

    if you have an anti-theft radio, did you try entering the code? i believe the instructions would be in your owner's manual. your code should be with your manual. your dealership may be able to get the code via your VIN. if not, then it's probably on the radio itself, but would have to be removed to read it.
  • rhondahondarhondahonda Member Posts: 2
    There is no power to the radio, so it will not allow you to use the code. The fuse to the cig.lighter is blown and blows immediately upon putting in a new one. From talking to others, I believe it may be a short that is affecting the lighter and the radio. Thanks for the input!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    There is no third screw. The 3rd retainer is a plastic pin that snaps into a retainer. Remove the two screws, grasp the entire assembly, and pull straight out (at a very slight outward angle).

    Steve
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, the short could be in the radio itself now.
  • chappedhandschappedhands Member Posts: 3
    I'm doing some work on my Odyssey and want to lift up all four wheels off the ground. The problem is there are only 4 lifting points recommended. If I use my jack to lift up point #1, then I can't put my jack stand under that point.

    Does anyone know of other safe points to use under the vehicle for lifting? I don't want to bend/damage anything under the vehicle.

    Thanks.
  • chappedhandschappedhands Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the air filter element on my 2001 Odyssey EX recently. The four bolts holding the top assembly to the bottom (sandwiching the filter) were very rusted. I sprayed them first and removed 3 bolts fine. The 4th bolt snapped off. The 3 remainging bolts seem to hold things together fine, but I'm wondering if there is an easy way to removed the broken bolt and replace it. The snapped off end is stuck in the lower filter housing.

    Any advice?

    Thanks.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I have an '02, so will assume that all of the welds are in the same place! Over on one of the other forums this subject came up a few years ago, and the answer was to use a floor jack to lift up each end of the van, then place jack stands under the 4 outer sill rocker panel spots as shown in the owners manual. The central jacking points are the transport chain hooks. The front one is about a foot in from the bumper dead center between the plastic panels. The rear one in a good 2-3 feet in as part of the rear subframe assembly.

    Steve
  • lrlanderlrlander Member Posts: 3
    The upper stop bumpers which contact the open sliding doors have actually liquified and fell out on my 2000 EX. It is hot here in Florida but this one is hard to believe much less on a car that is garaged. The lower bumpers are fine.
  • mrr2mrr2 Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone else purchase the extended warranty from "Portfolio?" My 2002 Odyssey is having multiple problems with the transmission, motor mount and fuel tank. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I'm hopeful that the warranty will cover it.
    Let me know.
    Thanks :cry:
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    A few months ago, my 99 Ody (then with 76k miles) had its CEL come on. The dealer said it was a bad fuel tank purge valve. I ordered the part but decided not to get the part changed just then. The dealer reset the CEL and I had no problems driving it until this week. Yesterday, the CEL light came on again (at 83k miles), I took it back to the dealer and told them to replace the valve as I didn't think there were other issues besides that since I had no other drivability issues. Service guy calls me back just now and said the catalytic converter is shot too. Now, I'm starting to get a bit suspicious that it's very convenient that I'm now just past the 8/80k emissions warranty, and I'm on the hook for a $700 catalyic converter job. If that thing would have went out earlier at 76k miles, it would have been under warranty. I asked him to check what Honda will do for me since it's just over the warranty. But I'm not very hopeful at this point. I can't prove anything about what codes were actually read a few months back, but I am suspicious that by resetting the CEL without changing anything that they could have hoped to have it come back on after the car passed 80k miles. Maybe I'm grasping at straws. What do you all think out there?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ouch.

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=5DR+LX+6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PI- PE

    if you really need to save a buck and if you are mechanically inclined, aftermarket convertors might run you anywhere from 150 to 250. not sure if the aftermarket convertor would be acceptable in all states.

    if you can't do it yourself, ask an independant how much if you supply the convertor.
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    I asked my dealer service manager to see if Honda would cover my catalytic converter even though it's just out of warranty. They just told me they would cover the parts ($600 tab) and I pay for the one hour of labor and the misc. seals, etc. I'm pretty happy they were willing to do this.
  • expertbiexpertbi Member Posts: 23
    The sliding doors on my 2000 OD do not close fully it is the last 1mm where it stops and there is a humming sound. The dealer wants to replace the junction switches and the door latch for $1000. Is this reasonable? Have any of you had this problem and how did you solve it?
  • gator12gator12 Member Posts: 1
    Pull fuse #13, wait 30 seconds, put back. (Don't disconnect battery. Don't pull different fuse. See website below for lots of user experiences and cautions.)

    Sliding door problems are notorious on this car. This trick is well known on line (for example, go to http://www.carsurvey.org/viewmorecomments_review_21136_4.html ). But dealers continue to rip owners off with expensive, unnecessary repairs as solutions.
  • donbarbituodonbarbituo Member Posts: 1
    My 01 Odyssey has been having work done on the driver's door since December (another story). After the latest "fix", the SRS light was on. They were working on the power window (alignment) and speaker wiring (disconnected). They claim that nothing they did could have caused the light to come on. Is this true? I'm suspicious, if only because the problem occurred only after they were in the door.

    Is it possible that it just needs to be reset?
  • edsofaruedsofaru Member Posts: 31
    Hi

    I am new to this Forum. We have a 2003 Odyssey with a loose front power plug. Does anybody has the instructions on how to remove the CD drawer and the hosing in order to reach the back of the plug and fix it?

    Thanks
    Edgar
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    have a look here:

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=CONSOLE+%281- %29

    you might be able to remove the plug by removing the lower console lower center garnish (11). I think you might have to remove the clips (21), which I think are covered.

    another possibility may be removing the box assembly center (15).
This discussion has been closed.