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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • brettski1brettski1 Member Posts: 12
    2000 Leganza CDX. Never had an issue with anything related to the airbags. I allowed an old battery to finally fail. When I replaced the battery, the airbag light is on. I have the factory manuals. As I understand it, when the voltage drops below a certain minimum (10 volts or something like that), the airbag light comes on. Also, as I read the manual, it will not shut off without automatically...even after installing the correct battery power. So, now the light is on. The dealer wants $100 just to use the code reader, find out the reason, and re-set it.....even it was just the low battery. OUCH. Any other ideas? As much as I want to believe that it is only on because of the battery, another part of me doesn't want to find out there was something more serious....right after I needed it to function.
  • joeyacejoeyace Member Posts: 5
    Thanks so much i appreciate your help...any i deas as far as junkyards that have woos or should i just start calling?
  • markukmarkuk Member Posts: 1
    Hi can anyone help me with a misfire problem. My Lanos was working fine and after parking on restart was misfiring on two cylinders. Mechanic advised ignition coil faulty. Car would hardly move and needed towing home. Changed the coil and now the car is running again but is misfiring in 2nd and 3rd gear. Will run ok in 4th and 5th at speed but jolts in the lower gears. The coil change clearly resolved the main problem. I've notice a 2 inch split in the air hose between the air filter and engine. Any advice would be helpful. Mark
  • jeschajescha Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Daewoo Lanos that a friend gave to my husband and I. It runs great but we can not get it to pass smog, so therefore, we can't register it. I see that you said you bought a new ECU, so did we because we were told that was probably the prolem, it didn't help. May I ask why you bought a ECU?
  • jeschajescha Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone offer some insight on a Daewoo that will not pass smog?
  • jeschajescha Member Posts: 4
    Can you please tell me if you were ever able to get you car to pass smog and what you did to get it to pass smog. We also live in California and have failed twice and they said that maybe we needed a new ECU which we purchased from a junk yard, and it still failed. can you offer any insight????
  • tlibbytlibby Member Posts: 1
    Timing belt broke on 2002 leganza, i was just leaving a parking spot going maybe 10MPH, would that still cause engine damage?
  • jeschajescha Member Posts: 4
    I would have to say yes. I know that with the timing belt in my Volswagen they said if it breaks you might as well kiss your engine goodbye. Some cars are really affected by the timing belt. Sorry to hear that.
  • vulcan_bombervulcan_bomber Member Posts: 3
    Anyone can tell me where the camshaft sensor is located on the Nubira Stationwagon (2001) ?? thanks
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    I just inherited a 2000 Leganza CDX with about 48,500 miles on it. The oil was changed this past October, the plugs were about 3 or 4 years ago, then my mother died and I am about to go pick it up and drive about 1500 miles. She never went above 65 with it, and I am wondering if there is anything I should get done before I head out, and if there is anything I can do to help it get used to running 75 to 80? (In the way of best performance and fuel mileage.) Also, anyone have an idea of the cost of a new timing belt, or how easy is it to do myself? I used to work on muscle cars, and trucks, farm equipment, etc. until Plymouth came out with their Horizon, and I gave up on changing anything other than spark plugs after my trial by fire with a water pump! SPEAKING OF WHICH!! I was also told the new Iridium plugs would be a good idea to put in before the trip to help it get going, I'm afraid of too much heat, not enough air coming in. Am I right, or are they a good investment or should I look at a cold air intake to help it out if I get them? (WOW! All that in one breath!) :) I really like the car and look forward to keeping it as long as they have parts in a junk yard, and lawnmowers that can maybe swap out plugs and filters with! ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Up top, front, between the valve covers, under the engine cover, behind the timing case cover.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the engine cover.
    3. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector (comes in from the top)
    4. Remove the timing belt front cover.
    5. Remove the camshaft position sensor bolts.
    6. Remove the camshaft position sensor from the top.

    Install the camshaft position sensor and bolts. Tighten Tighten the camshaft position sensor bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb-in)

    2. Install the timing belt front cover, the crankshaft pulley, the accessory drive belt, and the air filter. Refer to DOHC Engine Mechanical.
    3. Connect the sensor electrical connector.
    4. Install the engine cover.
    5. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    Engine damage, probably not,
    valve damage, probably yes.
    The cheapest way to fix, is to logon on ebaymotors and buy a rebuilt head. It costs around $350. The timing belt and tensioners and rollers you can also get from ebay and they are cheap.
    You would also need to get a gasket set (around $30).
    The other option is to disassemble the head and see how many valves are bent, and just replace the valves, more labor intensive, though.
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    I am going to be getting a 2000 Daewoo Leganza. Has anyone heard just how close to 50,000 miles the timing belt should be changed? Also, has anyone heard how the new Iridium spark plugs work in this motor?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    The sensor is located on the top left side of the engine, but to access it you have to remove the timing belt cover.
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    Are there any tricks or special tools needed to replace the timing belt? I am pretty sure the water pump should be r/r'd while I am in there, but what else is involved?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'll need a workshop manual to get the illustrations on how to align the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys as described in these instructions.



    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
    3. Disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body.
    4. Remove the resonator retaining bolts and the resonator from the throttle body.
    5. Disconnect the breather tube from the valve cover.

    6. Remove the air filter housing bolts.
    7. Remove the air filter housing.
    8. Remove the right front wheel.
    9. Remove the right front wheel well splash shield.
    10. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump..

    11. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts.
    12. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
    13. Remove the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount; Service and Repair.
    14. Remove the power steering hose clamp bolt, and position the hose clear of the repair area.

    15. Remove the front timing belt cover bolts.
    16. Remove the front timing belt cover.

    17. Using the crankshaft gear bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the notch at the bottom of the rear timing belt cover. Notice: The camshaft gears must align with the notch on the valve cover or damage to the engine could result.

    18. Align the camshaft gears with the notch on the valve cover. Important: Use the intake gear mark for the intake camshaft gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust camshaft gear since both gears are interchangeable.
    19. Loosen the automatic tensioner bolt. Turn the hex key tab to relieve belt tension.

    20. Remove the timing belt.

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

    1. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the notch on the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.

    2. Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears, using the intake gear mark for the intake gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust gear.

    3 Install the timing belt.

    4. Turn the hex-key tab in a counterclockwise direction to tension the belt. Turn until the pointer aligns with the notch.
    5. Install the automatic tensioner bolt. Tighten Tighten the timing belt automatic tensioner bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
    6. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise using the crankshaft gear bolt.
    7. Recheck the automatic tensioner pointer.
    8. Install the front timing belt cover.

    9. Install the front timing belt cover bolts. Tighten Tighten the front timing belt cover bolts to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    10. Install the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mounts; Service and Repair.
    11. Position the power steering hose in place and install the clamp bolt. Tighten Tighten the power steering hose clamp bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    12. Install the crankshaft pulley.

    13. Install the crankshaft pulley bolts. Tighten Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
    14. Install the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump.
    15. Install the right front wheel well splash shield.
    16. Install the right front wheel.
    17. Install the air filter housing.
    18. Install the air filter housing bolts. Tighten Tighten the air filter housing bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    19. Install the resonator and the retaining bolts. Tighten Tighten the resonator retaining bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    20. Connect the air intake tube to the throttle body.
    21. Connect the breather tube to the valve cover.
    22. Connect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
    23. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • vulcan_bombervulcan_bomber Member Posts: 3
    Thanks will look there, and unless anyone else has a suggestion as to why the transmission should suddenly not want to engage...I will try what I can
    '
  • gunjapapigunjapapi Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    I have a 1996 model Daewoo Cielo. The problem is that after a few minutes of driving, the engine indicator light starts blinking and the engine stops and starts as the light blinks.It had a major service just a few weeks back in which the techs replaced the gasket. I am not sure whats going on.
    Please help. truly desperate.

    Best Regards,
    G.Papi
  • bobquail01bobquail01 Member Posts: 1
    Need to know how to prime the cylinder head lifters with oil ,the cramshaft torque bearings specifications and cylinder head bolts torque specifications
  • hangul111hangul111 Member Posts: 2
    Sensor is on the brake. Check to see if your brake lights are working if not repair brakes. If brakes are repaired and condition persists replace switch.
  • hangul111hangul111 Member Posts: 2
    Okay the core itself is leaking. I pulled the hoses checked for cracks or deterioration of the rubber and both were good. With the hoses in place you can move them and water runs down the firewall.

    So does anyone know how to remove the dash, then the plastic covers to get to the heater core? Also does anyone have a source for a good repair manual? I have a Chiltons for import vehicles, but it is not comprehensive enough.

    Thanks for any help
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    I just inherited a 2000 Daewoo Leganza with the remote built onto the key. It only has the one key and I don't want to find out what happens when that battery dies without a spare and / or a spare remote.

    Any ideas?
  • sherry123sherry123 Member Posts: 15
    Tinkerman, I don't think you are going to like my reply. I discovered the Daewoo key is rather unique apparently. Not every former dealer carries these keys however. My former Daewoo dealer does sell the keys. If you want another remote, you are really best off to go after market.
    My remote key actually broke in half. Thank the Lord it didn't break off in the ignition. I ordered spare keys and open the doors with the remote and start with one of the spares.
    You can't just order a remote, even with the key code. Someone has to reset this when you purchase a new remote which takes about an hour.
    If you want further information regarding Daewoo keys, you can contact C&O Motors 304 727 2921
  • sherry123sherry123 Member Posts: 15
    5 years or 50k which ever comes first. Trust me. You don't want that timing belt to break. IF you have any doubt at all replace it. I replaced mine at 35000 miles because it was 5 years.
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    Where might I ask is the remote available, or did you have it all replaced?
    Also, may I ask where C&O Motors might be located since I have to drive from Florida to PA?
    THANKS! ;-) :)
  • tinkermanlttinkermanlt Member Posts: 9
    Oh, I forgot to ask, how is your mpg's? My mother's only got about 18, but she never used the power and she puttered it for 5 years or more!
    I hope with the new timing belt, plugs, and wires and a good injector cleaner it will clear up after the long highway drive at 75 - 80! :surprise:
  • sherry123sherry123 Member Posts: 15
    C&O Motors a/k/a Love Toyota is 10 miles from Charleston on I64. If you go, email me at sherrmorr@aol.com and I can give specific instructions.
    As for the mpg, I got around 30-32 on the interstate. Obviously, city driving drops that way down. Where I live there is a traffic light every thousand yards whether we need one or not,.,...
    My sympathies to you for the loss of your mom.
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    Ok basically my lanos 1.6L will not fire up. The fuel pump works, New Fuel Filter, New spark plugs and their all firing, I took each plug out one by one to make sure each one was giving out spark. They all checked ok.

    I plugged in the Scan Tool and the only code I get is a P0452 EVAP low.

    How do I fix that?

    And will this keep the car from starting?

    Also the Scan tool says 3Ready: Misfire/Fuel/Comp. Which I think has to do with the car not starting. ?not sure.

    Thanks..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    probably a bad fuel tank pressure sensor, bad wiring to the connector, bad wiring in the PCM circuit or a bad PCM module:

    Here's some ideas:

    System Description
    The evaporative emission (EVAP) system includes the following components:

    * Fuel tank.
    * EVAP vent solenoid.
    * Fuel tank pressure sensor.
    * Fuel pipes and hoses.
    * Fuel vapor lines.
    * Fuel cap.
    * EVAP canister.
    * Purge lines.
    * EVAP canister purge valve.
    * EVAP service port.

    The EVAP system is checked by applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring for a vacuum decay. The powertrain control module (PCM)/engine control module (ECM) monitors the vacuum level through the fuel tank pressure sensor signal.

    At the appropriate time, the EVAP canister purge valve and the EVAP vent solenoid are turned ON, allowing the engine to draw a small vacuum on the entire EVAP system. After the desired vacuum level has been achieved, the EVAP canister purge valve is turned OFF, sealing the system.

    The PCM/ECM supplies a 5 v reference signal and a ground to the Fuel Tank Pressure sensor. The fuel tank pressure sensor sends a voltage signal back to the PCM/ECM relative to the fuel tank pressure. The voltage signal will vary from 0.2 v to 4.8 v.

    Conditions for Setting the DTC

    * Output is less than 0.1 volts (5 A/D counts)
    * Ignition ON.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets

    * The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate on the second consecutive drive trip that the diagnostic runs and fails.
    * The PCM/ECM will record operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records buffers.
    * A history Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored.

    Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

    * The MIL will turn off after three consecutive ignition cycles in which the diagnostic runs without a fault.
    * A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles without a fault.
    * DTC(s) can be cleared by using a scan tool.
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    So in other words the EVAP isn't the problem. The most likely reason it was tripped was due to me dry testing the Fuel Pump. Since The EVAP works at a desired pressure the code will not clear until three consecutive ignition cycles engine running.

    I know there was a recall on the CMP sensor( Cam Position Sensor) for my year and model but it was replaced and the engine was running fine afterwords. Secondly if it was at fault a code should have popped up.

    So the only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.

    What do you guys think?

    The Good:

    Spark
    Fuel
    Comp
    Intake
    Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
    Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
    Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
    All Fuses and Relays working properly.
    New Fuel Filter
    New Spark Plugs

    The Bad:

    No Start :mad:
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    I took some advice from a friend to use carb cleaner to see if the motor will start and surprisingly it did. But obviously it died out after I stopped spraying.

    So what does this tell me? That the timing is in fact ok? or could it be clogged Inj or bad FPR?

    IMO It seems that there isn't enough fuel getting to the motor. What yall think.

    The motor sounds good when it was running on Carb cleaner.
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    Just to update I changed the Injectors, FPR, and another CMP sensor for the hell of it.

    Still no start.

    Wow I changed just about every single part on this car and it still will not start. I've never experienced this in my entire life no wonder they no longer make these cars. :cry:

    OK All parts changed and checked as of today:

    Spark
    Fuel
    Comp
    Intake
    Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
    Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
    Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
    All Fuses and Relays working properly.
    New Fuel Filter
    New Spark Plugs
    New Injectors
    New FPR
    New CMP
    And
    It will not Fire up.

    Anyone out there please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    Well I finally narrowed it down it's definitely the fuel pump or related.

    The pump turns on but theirs no fuel coming out. Brand new pump with a half tank full of gas. lol this is the weirdest thing.

    Why would the pump cycle but no fuel coming out?

    PLEASE SOMEONE ANYONE HELP ME!!
  • raywooraywoo Member Posts: 16
    I found the key blanks for sale on ebay for my daewoo lanos, bought the blanks and then just brought them to a locksmith to cut.
  • markcintxmarkcintx Member Posts: 3
    I have a problem with my 2000 Lanos. It seems to have started with my disconnecting the O2 sensor w/o disconnecting the battery, I did this when I went to replace the spark plugs due to starting difficulties. When I went to fire it up afterwards, I had nothing; no dings, bells, buzzes, nothing. I popped the hood, made sure the sensor was connected (just looked, didn't touch) and tried again and this time the cart started up okay. Took it to get inspected and it failed due to both O2 sensors reading as "Not Ready" along with the Catalyst, Evap, and EGR. Sooooo, I replaced the O2 sensor at the engine block, added some Sea Foam to the tank and filled it up. My wife took the car out and it began bogging down on her. She would step on the gas and all that would happen is that the engine would seem to lose power. Sooooo, spent another $280 and replaced both O2 Sensors and the EGR. Nothing changed. Took it to a very reputable repair shop and they diagnosed the Fuel pump as being the culprit. Replaced the fuel pump...same result. Check engine light came on and reported the very specific code P0300 (Random cylinder misfire), two days later, it registered P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire). Had all error codes cleared from the system (at least that is what Autozone said it did), took it back to get reinspected an received the same exact failures!! Could someone help me determine what actually needs to be fixed? The shop that determined the fuel filter needed to be replaced said the ECM may need to be reset and that it may just need to be driven (about 500 miles) to do that. Is this correct?

    Here is what has been replaced/repaired so far:

    Spark plugs
    Fuel filter
    O2 Sensor (Engine block)
    EGR
    O2 Sensor (Catalytic Converter)
    Fuel Pump
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    Just a quick update. I checked the power at the pump while cranking it's receiving 11.9-12.0 volts. Which is about right. I also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge since now I'm finally getting fuel to the rail but there's no pressure. I took off the FPR and theirs barely any fuel getting to that side, it just trickles out.

    Would there be any other reason why the pump is weak on supplying proper fuel pressure? Is the voltage supposed to be higher? Or is the new pump still bad?
  • racerken1racerken1 Member Posts: 1
    I have exact same problem UGH
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    Hey guys it finally started. I got a used pump from the scrap yard. Apparently the Brand spanking new pump from Advanced was defective, go figure. That just shows you that new parts cant always be trusted no matter what anyone says even if it's an OE replacement like the one I got.

    Thanks to that one and only guy who replied to my post for helping.

    So if anyone is reading this with similar problems I had a weak pump. It did receive the correct voltage but it wasn't pumping hard enough.
  • markcintxmarkcintx Member Posts: 3
    JAPMAX96; sounds like I may have a similar issue. Can you tell me how you tested the pressure in your fuel line?
  • japmax96japmax96 Member Posts: 8
    By using a fuel rail pressure gauge . Any Auto Parts store should carry it for around $30-$50.

    Here's a link explaining the whole process and more.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm
  • lopezoftroylopezoftroy Member Posts: 1
    so i need to get a few parts for my 2002 daewoo lanos S. does anyone either have headlights and a front bumper cover for sale or know of any websites that sell these parts?
  • wooblooswoobloos Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 Daewoo Leganza. When starting the engine while cold, there is a loud vibrating noise. If I rev the engine, the noise stops. I can turn off the engine, turn it back on, and the noise is not there. I can drive the car around, turn engine off and on, the noise is not there. If the car sits for about 4 hrs. or overnight, the noise returns upon starting the engine. It's only there after the engine's gotten cold. I've taken it to a mechanic, they have no idea what it is. Anyone have any ideas? Other than the noise, the car runs great. Thanks.
  • hotsho111hotsho111 Member Posts: 1
    I've been doing a ton of work on my car this summer and this is the only problem I haven't been able to solve. I get a cylinder 1 misfire when over 3000 rpm at about 75 mph (highway driving only, it doesn't happen in lower gears). The check engine light will come on and will shut off if I don't go on the highway for a few days.

    The car still rides smoothly with the light on (i drove it 400 miles over the weekend with the light flashing)

    The crankshaft pulley, timing belt, spark plugs and spark plug wires are all new.
    There is some oil leaking in the first cylinder but the spark plug itself doesn't have any oil on it.

    Anyone have any suggestions on what to try to try and fix this problem?
  • roninodessaroninodessa Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 daewoo leganza, i just put a head gasket and timing belt and replaced the plug behind the water pump on, drove it to get new tires, and to get it inspected, ran fine., drove it back to the shop and replaced the flex part of the exhaust because it had a hole in it, and went to go get it inspected again, stopped at the post office on the way, it was running fine, came back out, it wouldnt start. it wont crank at all, disconnected the battery, and it cranked three times, and then wouldnt crank again, disconnected it again, and it started, and ran then died. then it wouldnt crank again at all, even disconnecting the battery again, and jumping it. the power windows stopped working, no power to them, i rolled them up with a jumper to keep rain out, and the ac does not light up at all when i turn on the ignition, the radio howevewr works great., i took off the wires from the ignition switch, and i can jump to get the radio on, and the car will turnover with a jumper but wont start, i have no clue where to start, to fix the problem, i cant get the ac or the windows to work jumping the ignition wires at all. has anyone had this problem, or know where i can start trying to get it running again?
  • abitsinfulabitsinful Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys, I am brand new to this and I am a woman who is getting taken to the cleaners. I am having the same problems with my daewoo.. Replaced spark plugs, fuel pump. fuel filter. now it wont start at all. They say it is the the clutch safety switch that is preventing it from starting. And they say it will be another week before part is in. Can anyone tell me where I would find the clutch saftey switch on a daewoo, so I can get it from our local pick and pull, they just got a daewoo in. I can not afford to be without a car another week. PLEASE SOMEONE can you help me with some info. I mean I need to know what to take off , where to find it on the car so I can get the part myself. And believe me I am no mechanic. Thank you
  • abitsinfulabitsinful Member Posts: 2
    You know what that is what I have been through and it is costing me a fortune. Now my mechanic says the reason it wont start still is a clutch safety swicth. I don't know if this guy is just screwing me over or if this is true.Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.
  • joeyacejoeyace Member Posts: 5
    just found out my neighbor has the same car as mine by coincidence and was totaled in an accident she wants to "sell" the original factory owners manual with the vinyl or leather case............could anybody use this?
  • multicarguymulticarguy Member Posts: 3
    (You know what that is what I have been through and it is costing me a fortune. Now my mechanic says the reason it wont start still is a clutch safety switch. I don't know if this guy is just screwing me over or if this is true.Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.)

    The safety switch is attached to the clutch pedal frame under the dash,you may be able to disconnect it and jump the 2 wire together. But be careful, because now the car will start without the clutch being depressed, and if it's left in gear when you crank it it will move on you.
  • dper299dper299 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2001 Leganza, As you accelarate you here a rattle which sounds as if it's coming from the front of the car for about 2-3 secs at most and it goes away. Car is running great,Just had timing job done @ 57,000 miles. Have had it up in the air and nothing is loose underneath. I did find that the muffler has rattles from inside of it.Could it be possiable that the noise is coming from the muffler,and just resonating thru the car? It only does it when car is moving,won't do it when sitting there in park and reving engine
  • amanda613amanda613 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Daewoo Lanos 1.5L. The problem is the number one plug gas fouls. The spark plugs have been swapped, new plug wires, new coil pakc, new cam positioning sensor, injections swapped, ecm changed. There is no oil in the water or water in the oil. What else can be done?
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