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STOPLAMP switch, Lanos, Manual Trans 99-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Lanos, Auto Trans 99-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Leganza 99-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Leganza, Manual Trans, From Vin #248879 00-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Leganza, Auto Trans, w/o Cruise Control, From Vin #248879 00-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Leganza, Auto Trans, w/Cruise Control, From Vin #248879 00-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Nubira, w/o Cruise Control 00-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
STOPLAMP switch, Nubira, w/Cruise Control 00-02 $10.95 $0.00 $9.42
Electrical - Chassis electrical - switches - Stoplamp switch
Guaranteed the valves are bent..either the belt and or one the idler pulleys broke...fixed dozens of them..
sorry!
JJ
Did you check to see if your alternator charging properly?
I had some of the problems you are describing because of a defective alternator (at 18K miles!). Towing, a new alternator (get a new one-not a rebuilt one-if you have a bad alternator) and labor cost me like $800. No more Daewoos (Suzuki Forenzas) for us!
i understand that there were problems in the past with finding parts and mechanics charging outrageous fees but is it still like this now that parts have been made available on their official site? i would hate to purchase this then end up paying twice as much as its worth in parts and labor if something goes wrong. so does anyone have any recent experience with repairs in the last 6 months?
The thing people need to know is that the engine is a GM engine. The Isuzu Rodeo from the same years has the same engine. I use the Isuzu repair manual for engine info.
Repair places charge more for Deawoo because thay can, not because they are harder to fix. A car is a car is a car. They may have to dig a little for parts, but they are availavble. Just plug in what you are looking for into Google or some other search engine and options open up.
If you don't know how to fix a car or where to find parts you will pay huge money for parts and labor! If you can do repairs yourself, with a little delay in finding parts on the internet, a Deawoo may be a decent car. You will spend a few weekends here and there fixing it. Either way, the price you gave for that car is about $2400 too much.
There is a thin wire that comes from behind the engine just to the left of the PCV valve hose (as you face the car from the front). That wire goes to the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. It runs under the cover on top of the spark plugs. That cover comes off when you remove the two allen nuts.
Follow the wire. The CMP is located between the camshaft sprockets. Unplug the wire to the CMP. To remove the CMP, remove the sensor retaining bolt (it's a torx) and LOOSEN the stud bolt. You will see that the CMP sensor bracket slips between the stud bolt and the upper rear timing belt cover. Replace CMP and hook it all back up. It is a pretty easy job.
Make sure the slot on the back side of the sprocket is aligned with the guide pin on the end of the cam; the intake and exhaust sprockets are the same, but the intake slot or exhaust slot must be aligned with the pin, depending on which cam sprocket is being installed.
Then, when the number one piston is at TDC, the cam sprocket marks should align with the cooresponding stationary marks on the rear timing cover.
I do know that the marks on the sprockets do line up when the engine is at TDC. I marked the sprockets with a sharpie before I took them off. On my car, I'm pretty sure, the exhaust sprocket was the one the right with the auslass/exhaust mark lined up with the mark on the other sprocket being just a mark without any words by it.
I just pried the cover over to look at the timing marks on my car. It looks that way. Raised section reading auslass/exhaust on the right sprocket with that mark cooresponding to a lone mark on the left sprocket.
If I didn't help. Another suggestion is to maybe see if you can find a car like yours at a local junk yard and take a look. That won't cost anything but time.
I'm also in Oz, Melbourne. Unfortunately no luck yet although a mechanic I was speaking to though that I should drain the oil via the inspection plate under the diff and he thought there was a fill plug hidden somewhere near the exit of the right hand drive shaft/CV joint.
The car is with my sister at the moment so I cannot check this.
my email is: cureton
@dcureton.com
join that together and drop me a line and i email you directly if I find anything as well as this forum.
Cheers,
David
I have purchased a fuel filter for my car and need to know where it is located to replace it. I hope that this will increase the gas mileage. Please help me if you can
Sometimes, when I come to a stop, the car idles bad and acts like it wants to die. If I put it in neutral and rev it up, it's okay until I am ready to go into drive again. It doesn't do this all the time. Seems to do it the most when I first start the car and drive when the car's cold. I finally figured out if I let it warm up so the temperature guage moves almost to the half line, it won't do it as much. I drive downtown in a lot of stop and go traffic and that's when it's the worse. Once I get on the interstate and drive for a distance and get off at a stop light, it doesn't do it anymore. Also, the check engine light was on.
I took the car to Express Oil thinking I needed a tune-up. The guy told me he didn't think it needed a tune-up and to let him hook it to the computer and see what it says. The computer said the gas cap was loose. We tightened the gas cap. Computer said needed a temperature coolant sensor. Ordered the part, took 3 wks to come in. Put part on, still didn't fix the problem. Took it back the next day, the guy cleaned out the throttle bottle. Still didn't fix the problem. It costs me $70 so far.
Took car to another place and got a mechanic that used to work for Daewoo working on it. Did a diagnostic and said it was showing EGR Valve was messed up. They drove my car for two days and they could not get it to act up and do for them what it's been doing for me. Said they couldn't check the EGR Valve to see if it was defective unless the car was messing up. He didn't want to replace the EGR Valve since it costs $225 in case that's not what's wrong w/it.
My husband told him to change the spark plug wires, he did. Also, the mechanic cleaned some valve behind the throttle that needs to get cleaned along w/the throttle bottle which Express Oil didn't clean. Cost me $159.
Took my car home, runs great, but two days later....starts the same thing again. Called the mechanic this a.m., said they can't do anything until the car will do for them what it does with me. Said the EGR Valve will eventually go out and the car will run worse. Only way to know if it's the EGR Valve is to let the car get to the point that it runs bad all the time, not just sometimes. Help...anyone heard of this or had this happen to their car? My car's been great thus far.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Woowoes is me too...I bought a complete cylinder head with new valves, etc. ready to bolt on for $400. All the parts you need are available on Ebay with the best prices. You may be able to get parts at a dealer if you want to wait the same amount of time and pay a lot more money. Just go to Ebay motors--parts, and type in what you need. You can get whole gasket sets and timing belt kits. If you can't find something with Daewoo try entering it as an Isuzu part. The firing order from the coil is different from Isuzu though. On the Daewoo it's 1-4-2-3 (1 being the end closest to the fire wall) I just received an alternator I found on Ebay from a guy in NC. It looks like you know what parts to replace. You're gonna have half the engine compartment dissasembled, so replace everything while you're in there. If you don't have one, get an Isuzu Rodeo Haynes manual that covers '89 thru '02. It will have all the torque specs and helps with lining up all the timing marks.
--Jim in Massachusetts
I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
Thank you again!
I'm sorry everyone for the multiple posts. My computer was hung up, I got impatient and hit send a few times.
--Jim in Massachusetts
I am the second owner on my car(1999 Daewoo Leganza)
and I dont have the code. The delearship is no longer around and I am unsure of where I can find the code. If anyone has any information that may help me I would appreciate it.
Thank you.
Barbara in Alabama :shades:
Try here.
As long as the timing belt tensioner was replaced with the timing belt (as it should have been) and the weep hole on the water pump does not show any fluid seepage and it turns freely and cleanly and the cooling system was peroply flushed and filled every couple of years, there is no imperative reason to replace it on the first timing belt change.
1. AC can be switched on but no air coming out from the vent. Is it the fan problem or the ac problem?
2. Oil outside the gasket. How to fix that?
3. One passenger window is not working and a side mirror can't be controlled by the operator inside the car.
Thank you.
I've been studying these boards for about a week. What a a Suprise to find out that so many people have timing belt problems besides me.
Does anyone have the timing settings for my 2000 Daewoo Nubira. I bought it used & I just ordered the belt, etc. but we don't have the settings to put it back on. If not does anyone know of any resource online that I could get them from?
Thanks so much. I've learned so much from these boards aren't they great?
Jeanne
Another option is to order the actual factory service manuals, but it will cost more.
Aussie Paul
2) Oil outside the gasket...tighten bolts a little, if this doesn't work -- replace the gasket. You may want to replace the gasket anyway.
3) I'll bet the wiring to that door has come disconected somewhere. Pull the door panel off and look. Check switch connections.
Take your time and look it over.
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
Good luck!
go here...It is 1-3-4-2