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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • allthumbs3allthumbs3 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, 86 s-10 (actually GMC s-15). High miles, used hard. On startup the idle has been high but I could kick it down to acceptable.

    Now it is a very high racing engine on startup and I can't kick it down.

    Whats the mechanism that controls that? Mechanical? VACUME?

    Thanks for your time.
  • allthumbs3allthumbs3 Member Posts: 2
    it's the standard 4 cylinder engine
  • oldman13oldman13 Member Posts: 1
    My hood rattles and shakes. The holes in the fender for the hinge bolts are worn. Any ideas to fix this problem??
  • jim91jim91 Member Posts: 2
    have you figured this one out? I have the same ABS/Brake light on on my 2000 S10 Blazer. It has about 70,000 miles on it.
  • jim91jim91 Member Posts: 2
    The gas guage quit on my 2000 Blazer as well. It turned out to have been deposits left behind from using Shell gas. The dealer repaired it no charge.
  • jmike2jmike2 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever think to check your catalytic converter for blockage?
  • akm0524akm0524 Member Posts: 1
    (This is my first post here, I was reccomended to come here)I have a 2001 S10 pick up. Sometimes I have no heat and sometimes I do. When I don't, it's ice cold. And when I do, it so so. I have replaced the thermostate. This did not help. I have also let it run with the radiator cap off thinking there might be a air bubble in the system, and it would eventually work it's way out. I thought this did it because I had heat afterwards. But now I am without heat again. Could I have a faulty new thermostate? Is my heater core on the outs? What else can I do? I don't like the cold. By the way, I live in Minnesota, so you can imagine my frusteration.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • koah8koah8 Member Posts: 1
    I to have an 87 s-10 2.8..... its idling high and getting poor gas milage. seems to run good but nut sure how i can fix my two issues that bother me so terribly. any advice?
  • dgmedmundsdgmedmunds Member Posts: 6
    Anyone know where the PCV valve is located? Did a 100K tune up & couldn't find it to replace.
  • beamermt25beamermt25 Member Posts: 1
    Hello.. I have a 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer V6 with approx 140k miles on it.. normally it runs rather well, however lately i've had the problem where the car will just stall out for no reason. It will start up fine, drive a bit and every once in a while just quit, mostly at intersections. I normally have to use engine starter fluid to get it back up and running. I've also replaced the fuel pump and filters and sparkplugs and stuff.. any ideas? thank you!
  • willyimacwillyimac Member Posts: 1
    ok I have same problem with my 2000 S-10 4.3 V-6 did you find the answer? someone told me to flush system Iam going to change thermostat today.
  • stanlstanl Member Posts: 1
    84 s-10 pu, 2.8 v6, 182,000 miles. Normally runs good, 20mpg, 70 mph, excellent compression.

    Rebuilt carb, replaced fuel pump, replaced catalytic conv, cleaned gas tank and replaced sock. Put truck on dyno with heavy load and ran perfectly.

    Problem: Under these conditions engine will run but will lose almost all compression. Will have difficulty maintaining 35 mph. Driving 70 mph, pulling hill and facing headwinds, drizzle and 40F. Pull over look in carb, it is very dry with no icing. Let truck idle for 10 to 15 minutes and it will return to normal. Would appreciate any suggestions. This problem has stumped some excellent mechanics. Thanks for any help.
  • mike103mike103 Member Posts: 5
    i been a mechanic now for 5 yrs in my experience that sounds exactly like the "spyder fuel injector" it is underneath the intake manifold it is a pretty big job but now for a decent mechanic the only problem is the part is extremely expensive i think it goes for $320.00
  • mike103mike103 Member Posts: 5
    that sounds to me like tehe starter isnt engaging if the battery has 12 volts and u hear a clicking noise throw a new starter in it that will take care of your problem
  • mike103mike103 Member Posts: 5
    if you are getting oil in your antifreeze you definately have a bad head gasket the only way to fix this is to pull the heads replace he gasket and send the heads out to the machine shop to get them tested for leaks then throw it all back together dont forget to flush the antifreeze completely and change your oil ps dont drive the truck with a bad head gasket you will blow the motor
  • mike103mike103 Member Posts: 5
    they actually sell an aftermarket gasket made by standard that had a little metal screen this way the carbon cant fly up into the egr valve
  • ozzymandias85ozzymandias85 Member Posts: 1
    Okay disconnect the heater hoses from the engine. Get a water hose and try to run water through the lines. In other words cram one of the heater hoses into the water hose. See how much water and junk comes out the other disconnected line. Many times Chevy heater cores plug up. If the flushing shows good water flow and or no junk coming out then.
    Check the heater hoses, I have not had any problems with my truck but I had a camaro that did the exact same thing and found that one of the heater hoses would collapse as it got hot.
    Now I dont know if your model is equipped with this or not, but while your following the lines see it there is a heater control valve in line.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    There is an electronis switch on your transfer case that goes bad, and is a fairly common problem with this type (electronic) 4wd.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    I'm sorry, but this was the original type of Antilock Brake systems invented by the General. THEY SUCK! your problem is most likely your wheel speed sensors. In case you dont know what these look like, jack one side of your car up and remove the wheel. look for the brake hose. you should also see a smaller, smooth hose, and that is your wheel speed sensor. i would replace both sides, and i believe theses parts are only available from GM.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    When was the last time your engine got a good tune-up? check your plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air and fuel filter. also, try to adjust your timing. If you cannot see the timing marks on your crank pulley, try setting it 4 degrees before top dead center. if you adjust your timing, and it runs well for a while, but repeats itself like bfore, check your timing chain.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem with my '89 and my boss said for me to check the timing chain. But, i got into an accident before i got to replace it, and it was totaled, so have someone check the chain for you.
  • deridderderidder Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1985 V6 S10 with 75,000 miles on it. Lately its been bogging down really bad in the morning. I go out and start the truck fairly easily, and it will run fine for 2 to 3 miles, but then it starts to bog down. It will only go 5 or 6 mph. The weird thing is that when i go to drive it home 6 hours later, it runs perfectly fine. At first i thought it was the choke sticking, so i put a manual choke on. That did not help. I also changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and had an oil change. None of this helped. Could someone please give me some pointers.
  • heartofgoldheartofgold Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can find the ABS fuse in the fuse box. What's it called? or maybe it's located somewhere else.
    Thanks in advance
  • juvyjuvy Member Posts: 1
    I cant figure out which fuse is for the interior lights none are labeled as interior lights. Please help me out. >.< 91 S-10 Blazer
  • kkjesterkkjester Member Posts: 1
    Yeah i have a 1989 blazier, s10 model, 4x4, its got over 220k miles on it, i was driving home after my friend put the fuel filter on wrong and now its leaking, well thats just the start of it, the gas peddle made a loud like pop as my foot was on it, and when i tryed to crack it agian, it wont stay cracked, it shot like fire and threw the air filter from above the fuel injectors to the hood, and.. oil just vanshies, doens't leak, no burns out of the exhaust, just goes some where, so.. i just paid 300 bucks for a new engine but its a 1988 s10 model, my question is.. can it go into that body, and work without to many changes, going to use parts from both trucks to get the newer one working

    please email me at onlyjester@aol.com
    with any help you can provide, thanks
  • 90suprat90suprat Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 93 s10 4x4 blazer with 44k miles, and it doesnt go to high idle when first started on cold days, it just idles like it has been warmed up. It will also smoke a little, but mostly when it's a little warmer outside, it also takes longer to start the warmer it is, any ideas?
  • brettjbrettj Member Posts: 2
    my brother was doing a tune up for me and he had to stop for other reasons, I went to put the new spark plug wires on and noticed that he took the wires off at the distributor with no order attached, its an s-10 95, with the vortech v6, is there some way to get the order of the plugs to the distributor? I have a hanes manual, but cannot locate any firing order for the distributor. thanx,brettj.
  • res88qe1res88qe1 Member Posts: 6
    Sir,

    The Firing order is:

    1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2

    Hope this helps you out

    Thanks Friend
  • brettjbrettj Member Posts: 2
    hey! just a note, I did figure out the fire order and it started!!!!! Yea!!!!!, but now a new problem I have to check Out, I have a steady stream of oil dripping on the snow, which of course, wasn't there before. Smells plastic like, with oil. As you look at the engine, its on the left underside about halfway back on block, hope the block didn't crack!
    My dad worked for G.M. at the orion plant in MI. retired and moved up here in 90. He has passed on since, but he tried to get me in there to work, but instead I went into the Marine Corps, spent 12 years, fun.
    Anyway sir, thank you for everything and hopefully this truck will run for me now. Ill talk to you later, Respectfully, Brett
  • adamsandadamsand Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 2001 S-10 with 130,000 miles and i have changed the plugs and wires, but i heard that there are other things that i might need to change (distributor cap ect.) Anyone know what else might be a good idea to change.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Even when I don't change the cap and rotor I pop the cap and clean the metal electrodes with my pocket knife and inspect for corrosion. On more than one occasion I have had the center carbon electrode to have been broken. Sometimes the cap won't be that old. Sounds like it's starting to get a little age on things like the belt and hoses. They may be in good shape but then again they may be about to have an annerisim. I recommend you take your time and give everything a good visual.

    Enjoy
  • webb3webb3 Member Posts: 5
    yep i did check the cat.no problem there.
  • webb3webb3 Member Posts: 5
    its not the spider injectors either.when it goes bad you will really no it because all the gas goes into the intake plenum and floods the cylinders and fouls the plugs.then you have to take all the the plugs out and a bunch of other crap that i have done twice.not the fuel filter either.changed it three times in a year and half.put on new fuel pump and it ran great for almost 3 months and started all over again.luckily the pump has lifetime warranty but labor doesnt.local mech done it for 85 bucks this time and it runs great again.i am getting rid of this headache this week cause i cant stand the damn thing.
  • rollinlow1986rollinlow1986 Member Posts: 3
    on my 92 S10 pickup i recently shaved the handles but tried a different appoach to open the doors....needless to say it went wrong, if anybody know anyhting about the door poppers and solinoids, please let me know....i was wondering how long it takes to complete the installation on ONE door...(i've NEVER done this before) i need help :confuse:
  • webb3webb3 Member Posts: 5
    here is something i forgot to add before the third fuel pump went out.when i started loosing power going uphill or it would stall trying to pass another car i could turn the ignition switch off and on real quick with my foot on the gas pedal and it would pick back up speed for awhile.i had to do this all the way back from charlottesville virgina to hickory n.c. thats almost 300 miles but i got the thing home.but today is the day i say bye bye blazer.until america can make a car that holds up like the foreign cars the american car market will always be hurting and laying off cause people can only take so much of a bad thing.thats just my opinion and we no what there like.after reading eveything in these forums about the s-10 blazer i will never ever on a chevy again.people out there have blazers that have never gavw them any trouble at all.but not me.this has left a bad taste in my mouth that i will remember every time i see a blazer no matter how nice they look.good luck to all that have one with the same symptoms as mine!
  • oniparonipar Member Posts: 1
    My service engine soon light went on and I noticed a slight gas smell when I first exited the truck (which goes away quickly).

    Basically narrowed it down to an Evap problem. A mechanic told me not to worry about it and not to bother getting it fixed because it costs a lot and isn't something that will cause further problems.

    Of course I don't quite trust this information and wanted some other opinions.

    Will this cause future trouble? Does the cost to fix outweigh the benefits of having it working properly? Any opinons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • borob1borob1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 sonoma 2.2 4 cyl. 5 speed/The only way it will start is to barely pump the gas pedal and once it starts the only way it runs is with my foot on the pedal/As soon as I let off gas pedal it stalls/also there are no codes coming up
    heeelp//////
    thanks bob
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Check your fuel pressure.
  • borob1borob1 Member Posts: 3
    I checked fuel pressure and it is 40-41 /Now the truck has started perfect for 5 days /today sunday 5/14 /06 it didnt start again unless you barely push on the gas as soon as you let off gas it stalls
    thanks bob
  • twellmantwellman Member Posts: 3
    I just picked up a 93 sonoma w/4.3 V6. The digital dash doesn't seem to work. The warning lights work, but the tach, speedo, oil pressure, gas gage don't. Checked fuses, they're OK. Where to look?
  • kydansrkydansr Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I recently bought the 2001 S10 with 106K miles. the service engine light is now on and the two error codes show secondary air injection system failure and manufacturer controlled transmission failure are either one of these items something i can fix myself since I enjoy doing my own repairs when possible?
  • cnylizzycnylizzy Member Posts: 2
    My inspection is past due and the only reason I can think of that it wouldn't pass is my check engine light is on. It's always on! I got a letter from GMC saying that I "may experience illumination of the (check engine light)...this may be due to pieces of the inner liner of the front exhaust pipe breaking up and tumbling into the catalytic converter..."
    I already tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset it all and that damn light was the first thing that was on when I started it back up and it stayed on. It was extremely frustrating because it was the second inspection appointment I've had to cancel. :mad:
    Do I really need to invest $200 in a new catalytic converter just to get my check engine light to shut off so I can pass inspection?!? :confuse:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Dear Frustrated,

    From what you described, are you sure its your cat that is causing the light to stay on? If you don't have a code reader you can take it to most part stores and they will read it for free. They won't clear it but they can read it and give you a better indication of whats going on. Keep in mind that some times the code isn't exact, its just a starter in that direction.

    In order to clear the code you can use the technique you outlined or clear it with a code reader. However, before you can clear the code you first have to remedy the reason the code came up to start with.

    Talk about frustration, I had to install a cat on my S-10 to get it to pass inspection. I used aftermarket and made it fit. I made new flanges and brackets and it all looked purdy when I was done. I was happy and patted myself on the back. One of the new brackets I made I mounted it to the bottom of the cab (bad move). It set up a vibration of which I miss-diagnosed as a bad transmission. After I dropped the tranny, had it overhauled, and re installed I discovered that wasn't my problem, it was the bracket mounted to the bottom of the cab.

    That wasn't the dumbest thing I have ever done but I won't forget it for awhile. Sometimes you just got to have a since of humor.

    Good luck :shades:
  • cnylizzycnylizzy Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely get it scanned to see what it says. I guess I just kind of assumed since I had that letter that the catalytic converter was the problem. Silly me! I think the last time I had it scanned two years ago it said something about a hose - so it might just be a cracked hose and a matter of figuring out which one. Should be a nice Sunday treasure hunt! Thanks again :)
  • goodgodgoodgod Member Posts: 6
    I replaced mine when the speedo quit working and it gave me code 24 (VSS). It still didn't work afterwards due to the wires from the sensor that go over the top of the tranny being burnt. I had to feel mine by hand, replace them, then it was fine. Good luck
  • countryboy3countryboy3 Member Posts: 3
    well u may need a new speedometer or it could be a wire or a fuse ;)
  • robmendroprobmendrop Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace converter but it is welded on. Can I cut the old one off and use clamps to put the new on. Where do you purchase clamps?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    You can find clamps just about anywhere, they're common. At first I replaced mine as you described. Later when I needed to drop the exhaust system I cut just aft of the converter. Then going back I welded new flanges in as to make it easier the next time I need to remove something. Some aftermarket cat converters have a slip joint on one end and a flange on the other. :)
  • dkurrledkurrle Member Posts: 20
    2003 ZR2.
    Has anybody else experienced air flowing through your vents, similar to if the fan was on low, when you have the knob on OFF. ??? any suggestions?
  • superman1975superman1975 Member Posts: 10
    Check to see if you have a vacuum leak anywhere. I had the same problem with my '98 S-10 2.2l last year and found that my vacuum lines under the hood had become brittle and had many holes. Replaced for ~$3.
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