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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    So it's been awhile since I have been here and needed to post something, but here goes. I am a bit baffled by this odd bit. Just tonight I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor on my '01 4.3 V6 S-10. Everything seemed to go according to plan and there didn't seem to be any major issues - other than fighting the steering rod on the driver's side and the dipstick tube on the passenger side. When I went to fire it up though, it fired just fine, the engine sounded normal, if not smoother than before, but there was a wierd clacking like noise coming from the distributer cap and rotor.

    I shut the truck off, took the cap off and looked at the new roter. It appeared that some of top parts had broken off, but I didn't see any plastic parts or debris anywhere in the cap or under the rotor. The broken of pieces didn't appear to be affecting the performance and after comparing it to the old rotor I determined that there wasn't really anything wrong with it. I looked at the cap and it also looked fine. I put it back together and took it for a test drive. It still clacked-kind of like plastic hitting plastic sound. The truck ran normally. No mis-fires, good power, nothing out of the ordinary except the clacking sound.

    I got back home and exchanged the new rotor for the old one and I got the same noise. I am stumped. I checked the wiring to make sure I had wired the new plugs correctly and I had. I also checked to make sure the cap was on tight and it was, except that if I forced the cap back towards the drivers side of the firewall the noise seemed to lessen and when I put my hand on the cap, it felt like the rotor was striking the side of the cap... Do I have a bum cap? Or is it something else? Since it was almost 9 PM before I was decided to quit fiddling with the thing, the auto parts store where I bought the cap was closed. Actually it closed about 45 minutes after I bought the stuff so I was out of luck almost before I started working...

    So as of right now I am stuck with what to do. I will take the cap back tomorrow and see if they will exchange it - maybe take the guy outside and have him listen to the vehicle... I hope they can do something if it is the cap. It was almost $50... :confuse: But if anyone has any ideas I am open to them... I just didn't think a simple plug and wire change would turn into such a battle.
  • gerry66gerry66 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Chev S-10 4.3L. I gradually started losing heat. Replaced the thermostat with an OEM, flushed the radiator, engine and heater core, bled the system several times, got some heat for a short time, now I have very little heat. I wonder if there is a thermal control valve in this system? Inlet hose to the heater is hot and the outlet is cold. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Your heater core is plugged, back flush it or replace.
  • Indian4RiderIndian4Rider Member Posts: 2
    03 Sonoma ext. cab, automatic trans w/3 button electronic transfer case; owned since new: All 3 buttons light when key is turned to start; 2WD button is lit once started. NOTHING happens when 4HI or 4LO button is pushed. Fuses under hood and in kick panel are good. Another site said probably bad actuator motor but I couldn't follow up and find out how to check it. Where is this actuator motor? Is there also a relay that could be bad? TIA
  • Indian4RiderIndian4Rider Member Posts: 2
    Follow-up: Located and tested actuator motor under battery tray; tested fine w/Mighty-Vac - held steady for over 30 sec with zero vacuum drop. Also determined that there is 12V at the pigtail (switch?) where the cable from the actuator enters the transfer case. Took it out on the road and still no joy. With the truck in "D" moving fwd at idle as per owners' manual, NOTHING happens when the 4HI button is pushed - no click, clunk, hiss or anything I could hear. Looks like the truck's got to be on a lift to check vacuum at the actuator with the battery in place.

    There must be a switching valve and maybe a relay somewhere to control the vacuum to the actuator. Anybody know where the clever folks at GM hid it?

    Eager for suggestions...
  • rydoggrydogg Member Posts: 3
    Greetings!

    Please help me. Has anyone figured out what the hell is going on with chevy's 4WD system on their S10s. My truck going up hill will begin to make this horrible whinning sound from front end. PLEASE HELP! I have seen many posts saying the same thing. Has anyone figured it out????
  • rydoggrydogg Member Posts: 3
    GOt the same problem. Has anyone figured it out yet?
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Good day everyone,

    I am looking to replace the shocks on my rig. It's a '99 S-10 (4.3L, auto, reg. cab-short bed) with ZQ8 suspension package. I was wondering if anyone here replaced their shocks on their ZQ8-suspended truck and if so:

    Which shocks did you use
    Where did you get them
    Cost

    I've checked a couple of places like Rock Auto, Edelbrock, Summit (gateway from the Edelbrock site) and GMPartsDirect but it they are hella-expensive (especially if I go with the AC Delco replacements :surprise: ).

    Also, was wondering if anyone has replaced the oil cooler lines and if so:

    How difficult of a job was it
    Any special tools / tricks & tips needed
    Specific steps / procedures needed to be followed
    Am I better off taking the truck in to have it done

    Thanks everyone

    JAE
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    1989 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 4x4 (originally 4.3 replaced by a 2.8). The cruise control used to work intermittently, it would stay on for a few miles, then shut off, then I could get it back on, etc., etc. Had the turn signal switch replaced last year by a very good mechanic, however the cruise control has not worked at all since then. So, where do I start and what do I do and what am I looking for? Any help is appreciated. I know a little about cars, enough to make me dangerous, I guess. On a scale of 1-10, how hard would this be for me to get into and possibly fix without screwing things up. And, I am not interested at all in removing the cover to the steering column and getting inside there.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
  • me1237me1237 Member Posts: 1
    I have a1996 chevy s-10 4 cylinder pickup. I went to start it the other day and it started right up but to keep it running you have to keep your foot on gas. The minute you let up it dies. It won't idle in neutral. I was hoping someone might have a clue as to what the problem is or where I should start looking. Thank you.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I had a 2000 S10 extended cab with the 4.3 V6 that had the oil cooler lines replaced. I had a GM dealer do the work. It cost about $300 parts and labor. It's the kind of job that you don't want to put off becuase if the line breaks then you'll lose your engine oil. Good luck.
  • littlebazzlittlebazz Member Posts: 1
    More than likely the Vacuum Actuator under the Battery tray is not working or the cable that goes from the Vacuum Actuator to the axle is bad. It could be that one of your wheel hubs have bad bearings and need to be replaced for the axle to mesh with the hub.
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    I have a 95 Chevy S10 ext cab pu. The engine is the 4 cyl with a 5 speed stick.
    The rubber washer from one of the bolts that holds the cab to the frame fell off.
    Do you access the bolt from inside the cab? Is it hard to replace the washer?
  • cooper26cooper26 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for a set of left side stripes for a 95 S-10 Xtra cab 2X4 pickup. They are 5 line with speckles--purple/silver in color. Can send a pic if you think you may have them. Please let me know. Thank you!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    So a couple months ago I went to use the 3rd door on my truck and pulled the handle and SNAP! went something inside. Groan I thought. This is the 4th time this thing had broken, although the last time was several years ago. A quick history: The first time the handle snapped off because it was manufactured using only a small piece of plastic to pop the two latches at the top and bottom of the door. The piece of plastic wasn't up to the stress of doing that and eventually gave out. I replaced the handle because at the time I didn't know any better. If you have owned a 3rd door Ex-cab S-10/Sonoma and haven't had this issue, count yourself lucky. Otherwise you probably know exactly what I am talking about.

    Well a couple months later, the same exact thing happened. I ordered a new handle and then started doing research to find out what the deal was and this was when I found out that I was't the only one with this problem and someone had designed a simple fix for the problem. They had manufactured a handle out of aluminum that would never fail. And the kicker?? It was cheaper than a new handle from the GM parts dept or anywhere else! So cheap in fact that I ordered one right then and there even though I already had a brand new entire handle mechanism on the way.

    The new OEM handle arrived and I just set it aside and waited for the "new" handle to come in. It was just the handle part and not the entire mechanism since only the handle part was poorly engineered in the first place. I replaced just the one part and things have been fine since I did that several years ago.

    Fast forward to a couple months ago. I went to use the handle and SNAP! Well the door handle it self didn't appear to be broken but something had snapped. For a while I had noticed the door being kind of hard to open and took a bit of force so I figured that force got to something inside the door. I put off taking a look at it because I didn't really want to mess with it. Today though, I decided to take it apart and see what went wrong. Turns out a piece of the handle mechanism had broken off. (the plastic piece inside the spring on the latch mechanism) As I looked at it, I remembered suddenly that I had a brand new handle mechanism sitting somewhere that I had never used! I ran to find it and luckily I found it. That part itself is amazing considering I ordered that handle probably 4 or 5 years ago and it went through a couple of moves. I'm amazed I was able to find it with out hardly looking for it. I spent more time looking for my ratchet to remove the seat belt. Five minutes later, I had transfered out the plastic handle with my aluminum handle and put the whole thing back together and my door works!
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I'm looking for an extended cab S-10 anywhere from 1994 to 2003. I'm more concerned with condition than anything else. This will be a vehicle that will be used very infrequently for town driving. It needs to look good and drive well. I'm not looking for a construction vehicle that is beat up. I wonder what years would be the best to look for based on dependability, lack of a lot of electronic components to go wrong and so on. I'd want an LS with automatic. I wonder if newer models -say 2000-1003 might be more dependable. You guys are the experts. What year or years should I consider? Thanks!
  • littleoscolittleosco Member Posts: 11
    We have a 2000 S10 ext cab auto 4wd and it has been a great vehicle. We are running an ad next week to sell it. We're asking $7000. We're in Oregon. One owner. Less than 90,000 miles. Indigo blue. We have 3 vehicles and I was laid off a year ago so we're selling the oldest one to pay off other bills.
  • rydoggrydogg Member Posts: 3
    I have a beautiful 1998 S10 4WD for sale. Call if interested. 808 450 0472
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Okay - I would suggest you get anything from 1998-2003, 2wd with the V6. That will make you the happiest I think based upon what you're saying. I have a 2001 ex-cab V6 with an auto tranny and love it. Been really dependable and it has manual windows and locks with few electronics. Good power, decent mileage (just don't expect spectacular).

    I say those years because it might be easier to find a low mile vehicle in good shape the newer you go. Mine is an '01 and has almost 130K on it, but I have seen several a lot older than mine with less miles. These are stout little vehicles if you stick with the 2wd. The 4wd isn't bad, but has chronic ball joint and oil filter gasket problems. The model years 1997-2003 are the same mechanically. They use the same basic engine set up and transmission. In 2004, the only S-10 you were able to get was the 4wd crewcab with the ultra short bed.

    1994-1996 uses a simpler engine (V6 models) and so there is less electronics involved, but it doesn't have as much power. During the 1996 model year, they updated the V6 and it gained more power and a more complex fuel managment system. All they really did is change heads on it to the Vortec heads and changed the fuel injection system. The block and transmission remained the same although it became electronically controlled. I am not too familiar with the 4 cylinder models as far as reliability is concerned, but they are way down on power, especially when saddled with the automatic and the mileage gain for gas mileage isn't that great, especially with an extended cab. I would stay away from the 4 cylinder at all costs. The motors are rattly and maintenance prone especially once they cross 100K.

    So in short, if I was looking to buy an S-10, here is what I would look for. Model years 1998-2003. Extended cab, V6, auto transmission. No Power windows or door locks and you should be happy. That particular combo shouldn't be hard to find in a good used condition since they weren't usually driven as work trucks. It was also a pretty popular combo as well.
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    WOW! 12/14/09 I JUST HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. WENT TO FILL MY TANK AND GAS KEPT POURING OUT. TOOK ME 5 MIN. TO GET 2 DOLLARS IN IT AND I NEW THE TANK WAS EMPTY. KEPT ADJUSTING THE NOZZLE IN AND OUT. FINALLY I TURNED THE GAS NOZZLE SIDE WAYS AND SHE STARTED TAKING GAS. INSTEAD OF HAVING IT AT 12 TO 6 POSITION, I TURNED THE NOZZLE SIDE WAYS TO A 9 TO 3 POSITION. I CANT EXPLAIN IT WHY THIS WORKED BUT IT DID. I ALSO NOTICED THAT THE GAS NOZZLE LOOKED FAIRLY NEW. IM THINKING IT VAPOR LOCKED IN THE INTAKE TUBE. WHO KNOWS!!!!!!!!! I ALSO THOUGHT SOMEBODY STUFFED SOMETHING DOWN INTAKE TUBE. WONDERING IF YOU ARE STILL HAVING PROBLEMS. 2003 S10 EXTENDED CAB. 4.3 GOOD LUCK
  • lnz8303lnz8303 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Chevy S10 that I just changed the fuel pump on. After changing it my float got stuck. We pulled the bed and *thought* we fixed the problem but I'm still having to check mileage. The weird part is that for a few days the gauge will stay stuck on full (even when it's not) then all of a sudden it will say its stuck on empty (even after I just filled it up) Any ideas?
  • lnz8303lnz8303 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the heads up on turning the nozzle. I had the same problem with my 2002 S10 (also extended cab 4.3) last week and couldn't figure out what the deal was. Will try that next time.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Well it worked right before the pump change. I would go back to the sender unit, with a meter the resistance should read 40-240 ohms full to empty. If no problem there the connector would be next to check.
  • hopkins7hopkins7 Member Posts: 9
    2000 S10, 4.3L, auto, 151k: Recently had radiator clog/stop up with red rust. Had radiator, thermostat and resevoir changed out, systen flushed and backflushed. After driving just 3 weeks, the water/coolant is red again. Obviously, I believe rust is still ongoing in the system. How can I stop the rust? Funeralman.
  • waynicuswaynicus Member Posts: 8
    I have an '82 S-10 with an oil leak, not a huge one, but it's dripping down the back of the block from somewhere. I thought I'd try the cheap and easy fixes first, and I saw on this forum a couple of years ago a discussion about oil pressure senders leaking oil. Well, I pulled out my Chilton's, and it mentions nothing about this particular part. I assume it, or something like it, must exist on the truck, but the manual was no help. O'Reilly's carries an "oil pressure switch" for the '82 S-10, but without any idea of where it goes, it isn't much help. Any ideas?
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    I THINK YOUR OK. I HAVE A 2003 S10 45000 MILES AND MY COOLANT LOOKS A REDDISH COLOR. ITS CALLED DEXCOOL AND ITS ACTUALLY A ORANGE COLOR AND WHEN DILUTED WITH WATER ITS A REDDISH COLOR. PLUS ONCE IT REACHES OPERATING TEMP. IT CHANGES COLOR.
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    OK 4 CYL OR V6 ENGINE
  • waynicuswaynicus Member Posts: 8
    2.8L V-6
  • rmdhcolemanrmdhcoleman Member Posts: 8
    There is a vent valve that opens when you shut the vehicle off to allow the air to vent as you refill the tank. The problem is the valve is located on top the fuel tank, as part of the fuel sending unit/pump module. The service manual suggests to remove the truck box to access this
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    OK HAVE YOU CHANGED YOUR PCV VALVE YET. PCV (PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE) IS DESIGNED TO RELIEVE CRANKCASE PRESSURE AND FUMES. SOMETIMES THESE THINGS PLUG AND SOMETIMES THEY WEAR OUT AND PULL TO MUCH VACUME AND START PULLING OIL OUT OF CRANKCASE. HINT..... HINT...... DO NOT BUY ONE FROM PEP BOYS, AUTOZONE, ETC... ETC..... BUY ONE FROM GM DEALER AC DELCO. I THINK YOURS IS PLUGGED AND YOUR BUILDING TO MUCH CRANKCASE PRESSURE CAUSING YOUR LEAK OR YOUR NOT PLUGGED AND PCV VALVE IS WORE OUT AND YOUR PULLING OIL OUT OF CRANKCASE. PCV VALVE COST ABOUT 10.00 DOLLARS. GOOD LUCK TRY THIS FIRST!
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    OK IM ON MY THIRD HANDLE AND AT 45.00 DOLLARS A PEICE ENOUGH IS ENOUGH. WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR NEW HANDLE. THANK YOU
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    ARE YOU STILL HAVING THIS PROBLEM AND IS IT DOING IT ALL THE TIME OR PERIODICALLY.
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    A- MEN BROTHER. I HAD MINE DONE.
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    PCV VALVE
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    Can someone tell me what I have for the front shaft: is it the "press on slip yoke seal" or is it the "screw on slip yoke seal?"

    The rear shaft appears to be only "2 joint shaft."

    This is all off of Autozone web site.

    I have not pulled driveshaft yet, want to have the new U joints handy before doing so.

    Thanks!
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The auto parts store will know what you need.
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    No, they are the ones who pointed it out to me and asked me which one I needed.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Your going to have to crawl under and look. Not too bad on a 4X4.
  • bobwillerbobwiller Member Posts: 1
    GMC Motorhome

    The GMC motorhome was produced by the GMC Truck & Coach Division of General Motors for the 1973 through 1978 model years in Pontiac, Michigan, USA. It was the only complete motorhome built by a major auto/truck manufacturer producing what GMC hoped would be their halo vehicle. Part of the reason this vehicle is so different from other motor homes of the era is that it was not conceived as just a "camper," but as a vehicle for comfortable travel as well. The design was radical for the day with front-wheel drive and a low profile, fully integrated body. At the time (as now), motorhomes were built by recreational vehicle manufacturers on bare frames and drivetrains supplied by a chassis manufacturer. GMC built the bodies and in most cases the interiors in-house, and designed the chassis and drivetrain to create a motorhome enclosure that could be adapted to a range of purposes. Empty shells were supplied to other RV manufacturers for upfitting the interiors and also to specialty manufacturers for a range of custom purposes ranging from mail delivery and mobile training facilities to people movers and ambulances
  • theliebls1theliebls1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 chevy s10 with 237,000 on it. In the mornings when its cool out it starts right up. When is warm out it cranks for 4 to 5 sec and then start but starts rough. If I shut it off and start it back up right away it starts fine. If I wait 15 minutes or so it starts rough.

    So far I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator.
  • tarnoldytarnoldy Member Posts: 9
    OK, BIG QUESTION, 4 CYLINDER OR V6. I HAD SAME PROBLEM WITH V6 AND ITS A 100.00 DOLLAR FIX AT CHEVROLET DEALER.... ITS A ELECTRONIC CONTROL SWITCH THATS CONTROLS GAS FEED TO ENGINE......
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    The door handle, black plastic, is starting to come off the door of my 2000 chevy S-10. Excuse my ignorance but can soomeone tell me how to put it back? Thx.

    aiuto@att.net
  • theliebls1theliebls1 Member Posts: 3
    it's a 4 cyl (2.2)
  • mrswassammrswassam Member Posts: 1
    Just bought an 88 GMC S15. Runs great but will not shift into overdrive. Seems to shift later than I would expect at lower speeds as well. RPMs over 4000 and will not shift. Any ideas on what I should look at fixing first. Preferably cheapest first. :)

    Thanks!
  • herrman71herrman71 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 99 s10 4 cyclinder with 106000 miles. my rear brakes are making a clunk noise when i let off the brake pedal. i had it checked out and was told it is the abs control module. i wasn't given a price because the dealer was closed for the day. i use a independent shop. that shop told me it was very pricey. i have looked online for the part and found one for $431. i also watched a video on YouTube and that guy changed it out in 15 minutes just the top portion. the thing i dont know is this. do i have to replace the whole unit? which means disconnecting all the brake lines that come into it. or do i replace just the top portion? thanks.
  • flyingfinnflyingfinn Member Posts: 3
    After reviewing this site now many years later, I see I forgot to tell the end of the story of my '87 S-10 4x4 extended cab pickup 2.8V6, with 4-spd auto transmission. To finish the story: I finally had to retire that truck in February 2006 at 314,000+ miles (original engine), after the 2nd transmission went out. (The 2nd tranny failed after 125,000 miles - the 1st tranny lasted 189,000 miles). That '87 truck lived thru 19 Minnesota winters, but after all that time even with good maintenance and annual spring 'de-saltings' of the body panels, etc, with a pressurized garden hose, the effects of 19 Minnesota winters of road-salt finally took its toll to the point that it was not worth putting a 3rd tranny into it. However, that engine still purred nicely on the day the junk man came to pick it up. Note: The '87 engine did have an oil leak in it, but not too bad for it leaked (not burned) a quart every 1000 miles. The exhaust pipe had no oil residue in it and the exhaust smelled only like a hot hair dryer - i.e., clean! I replaced that '87 S10 truck with a 2005 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab, and have already put 173,000 miles on the Silverado since then.
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