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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

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Comments

  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    First of all -

    Check the oil. HG problems usually, although not always, result in water in the oil. If the oil is milky or odd looking, don't drive it, get it towed to shop and repaired.

    It does sound like a head gasket problem. I had a Shadow turbo that went through two HG's, and the first one looked like I had smoke pouring out the exhaust (but it was steam) and it would overheat really bad, took me while to nurse it home the 3 miles.

    A shop can put a sniffer into the coolant to see if there are traces of exhaust in the coolant tank, another sure sign.

    Also, usually the car with a blown HG will run a bit off, while a failed intake gasket will run pretty normally.

    I have not heard of anyone having HG's failure on this motor before, but I'm sure it happens.

    Also, check to see if your coolant level is up, and the air bubbles are purged from the system.

    Post back when you find out what the problem is.

    D
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    I forgot to mention, but I think the engine can be rotated enough to allow the heads to be removed, although don't quote me on it. Its pretty dang tight in there. I think they can also drop the engine cradle a bit and make room w/o totally removing the engine.
  • kdetkdet Member Posts: 1
    Getting ready to tackle the gasket replacement on my 2000 Montana. Would appreciate the photo of the chain setup (+ any other tips!)

    Thanks!
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    I used a load strap with the ratchet type system to hook the engine and pull it over when I changed the plugs. Worked for me. Good luck, that's a real project you are contemplating.

    DD
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    A racheting cargo strap should work fine, per Dirk's message. I didn't have one at the time of the job so here's what I did with a piece of chain:

    Chain

    Front attachment:
    Chain Front

    Rear attachment:
    Chain Rear

    Block rear wheels, transmission in neutral and I used bar to rotate engine forward. Once forward, I put the screwdriver thru a chainlink to hold at that position. Watch for anything that can poke a hole in the radiator as you rotate the engine.
  • greasergreaser Member Posts: 2
    It was the head gasket,and I was able to change both sides with the engine in the van. It was a full days job believe me, and I have been doing mechanical work for 35+ years but never did do a Montana, thats because this was my own. The complete head set cost $105.00 at Car Quest. Only the rear gasket was bad but I changed both.
  • fierodoughfierodough Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 Trans Sport with power locks.

    when i get the van USED, it came with no remotes. I assume that since it has power locks, it must have keyless.

    if it does, how do I program them? I have some keyless fobs from a 00 Sunfire GT, will they work? I do not have a power sliding door.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    Often you can find remotes on ebay. My 98 Montana's info is:
    GM 102459451
    CANADA 218 101 487
    MODEL/FCC ID: ABO0204T note the first 3 characters are alpha ABO

    If the Sunfire remotes don't have this info, they probably won't work.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    Found these instructions for programming:

    "Transmitter Programming
    If you lose a transmitter, program the old and new transmitter(s) into the remote control door lock receiver's memory. Up to 4 transmitters may be programmed.

    Important
    Once the remote control door lock receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information, requiring the programming of all transmitters.

    Program only 1 vehicle remote control door lock receiver at a time. If more than 1 receiver is being programmed at the same time, it is possible that the same transmitter could be programmed to more than 1 remote control door lock receiver

    Perform the following steps in order to program the transmitter:

    Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
    Remove the BCM PRGRM fuse from the fuse panel. Refer to Electrical Center Identification Views in Wiring Systems.
    Close all of the doors.
    Close the liftgate.
    Turn the ignition lock cylinder to ACC.
    Turn the ignition lock cylinder to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second.
    Open and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard when the system enters the BCM programming/diagnostic mode.

    Important
    After 7 seconds, a chime may be heard confirming successful synchronization. It is necessary to wait approximately 14 seconds for a second chime that will confirm successful programming.

    Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
    Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed.
    Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
    Install the BCM PRGRM fuse back into the fuse panel. Refer to Electrical Center Identification Views in Wiring Systems."
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Having power locks does not equal having keyless entry. Your van may or may not be equipped to handle a remote. You need to check the option label, should be in the glove box. I think there is another label in the rear end somewhere.
    You're looking for option code AU0. If you can't find the label, post the last 8 digits of your VIN and I'll look it up. :)

    p.s. I don't believe the Sunfire remote will work for your van.
  • fierodoughfierodough Member Posts: 8
    Hey guys! I read all acould about the whipers not parking and the fix. I can't seem to understand the fix.

    I know you put the pwhiper on intermittant. Then they stop a few seconds in the upper position, turn off the key.

    Here is where i get confused.. Do I have to unscrew the wipers and lower them to the parked position? (ie, losen the nut on the wiper, pull it off ect?) because I think I need apuller tool to remove them.

    I read that the is a metal tab to "bend" back in shape. also can't find this.

    Anyone have the detailed instructions in lamens terms?

    thanks!
    Eric
  • jhdjhd Member Posts: 20
    Hi,
    I am going to change dexcool in my 2001 Venture. Is there a block engine coolant drain plug in 3.4 l engine? Where is it located? I would like to drain block if I can.
    Thanks in advance
  • alien10alien10 Member Posts: 10
    Hello All,

    Well I finally decided to take our 2000 Montana in to be looked at for the famous piston slap. It started using oil this past winter and also I was gradually loosing coolant, not much but I like to keep the level up at the "full cold" mark.
    The oil consumption was probably not enough where GM would consider it a problem but at 45K the van was using more oil than our old Volvo wagon at 160K!
    I also saw it as an indication something was changing or deteriorating in the engine.
    Tough call whether or not to let somebody rip into our engine but with summer travel plans approaching I took the plunge. Thank God for the extended engine warranty I got from GM last summer.

    At the dealer I got to take a look the parts last night. Unfortunately they did not share the old pistons so I do not know how they looked.
    As far as thev new pistons, much to my surprise they are not extremely short skirted or revolutionary in design. All of them were polymer coated on thrust surfaces. The cylinder bores-some of them- had some light grayish discoloration on top but no heavy scratches or scoring. Not sure what to think of the bores.
    Dealer indicated they do not measure the bores they just change out the pistons.
    Mechanic indicated the rattle would likely return after the coating wears down but still considered the 3.4L a good engine.
    He also said my intake gasket was starting to go and would have leaked internally before too long.
    Overall with my limited experience I did not see anything terribly wrong with any of components I observed. I have seen lots of motorcycle engine guts but not cars.
    Dealer did not indicate straight up what they thought the cause of the noise was.

    I had some coolant residue at the base of the pipe coming up from the intake, dealer is replacing the intake as well hopefully. New waterpump also.
    I am paying for new thermostat, spark plugs and plug wires just because all that stuff is now so easy to change compared to when everything is back to together.

    Just hoping it will all go back together right!

    Will keep you posted.

    Alien10
  • montana2000montana2000 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem with my montana 2000, I have recently brought it in for a leaking head gasket, they replaced the gasket and informed me that I also needed to change my tie rods, disks front brakes and Pads, when I got it back I noticed some pinging on acceleration, my ABS brake light, lights up randomly, they changed my brake light bulbs and now my right flasher bulb is burnt, when I make sharp left turns there is a very strange unfamiliar noise that obviously should not be there...Yes the Pinging does bother me since I did not have any Pinging whatsoever before this repair...What happened, what can cause this and what can I do to fix this???

    Thanks

    Montana 2000
  • fierodoughfierodough Member Posts: 8
    Argh! I'm going insane! :)

    My dome lights randomely turn on when even when the van is unatended. They dim away then turn back on, the process will continue until I manualy turn off the lights.

    I assumed it was a bad conenctor at a sliding door, trunk ect.. but can't pinpoint the problem.

    I don't know if this is related, but on the driver's side sliding door, the power locks work "when they want to" but the lock is not stiff or anything.

    I tried to clean and sand the contacts on the sliding doors but no go..

    Any suggestions?
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    The interior lights come on when a door is opened and dimmed to off when shut. An intermittant door light switch or loose connection in that circuit might cause the symptoms you describe.
  • mljmamljma Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I'm having the same trouble with the automatic side door. I tried the re-initiallizing procedure to no avail. I also have no action in the driver's power seat. The fuses all check out ok, but no power at the seat or door. Something does click back by the side door motor, but nothing moves. All switches are on, etc. Any ideas? Thanks
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    This is a long shot, but quite a few Delco batteries were leaking acid and the wiring harness is right below the battery, and some folks had wierd electrical gremlins as a result of the acid eating away the insulation.

    Also, older dome lights used to have power and the switch actually grounded the circuit to turn it on. So that could be the problem, the door switch. But on new vehicles, the computer actually turns them off too, so perhaps my advice is not good....
  • fierodoughfierodough Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 Transport. Are the lights being tuned on byt the BCM or just a door trigger?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    You might also want to post your question in the Power Door and Lift Gate Problems discussion.

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  • fierodoughfierodough Member Posts: 8
    Will a trailer hitch that fits a 92-95 Transport also work on a 98 transport/Montana??

    Thanks!
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    I can nearly assure you, NO a 92-95 hitch won't work, as the vehicles are completely different. But check a car parts web site to confirm. I had a 2" rec. hitch added locally FYI.

    D
  • joegriffittsjoegriffitts Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Jeff,
    That is exactly what I found out - I did a little checking and noticed the pin on my drivers side tail light no longer existed and a bit of a burn mark. Replace the assembly and it works great.
    Joe :)
  • partsmanpartsman Member Posts: 16
    Now that warm weather is coming back my rear vents won't work anymore. I checked all the fuses - all good. Not sure if related but on the day they died my wipers would not park they just stopped where ever they wanted , then later in day they worked fine but vents were dead. ">
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    "Here is where i get confused.. Do I have to unscrew the wipers and lower them to the parked position? (ie, losen the nut on the wiper, pull it off ect?)"

    No! Leave the wipers alone! You unscrew/ loosen the wiper crank arm which is on the wiper motor under a plastic cover under the hood on the passenger side. Then rotate the crank and the wipers together until they are down, then retighten the crank arm.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    As a long-shot have someone gently push on the vent as you try to open them. You could try one at a time. Early in the 98's life one of the rear vents would randomly not open. Pushing to it to give a "boost" would cause it to open. I believe when they shut, the motor just stalls and an internal overload stops the motor. The sticking motor was replaced twice under warranty. I fixed it by elongating it's mounting holes so when it shut it didn't pull in as far thus didn't take as much force to reopen.
  • partsmanpartsman Member Posts: 16
    Where is this motor located? Is there one motor for both sides or two motors engaged together?
  • partsmanpartsman Member Posts: 16
    I'm not sure if it's common to the 2000's or a fluke. I notice on other triplets when using intermittent, the wipers stop on the bottom stroke- mine stop on the top stroke. Is there something wrong ? Is it supposed to be this way ? Can I switch to newer motor to pause on bottom stroke? Also the linkage seems to be too short- if I adjust the arms to park all the way down they short stroke - if I adjust them to full stroke they don't fully park and the motor does back up to park I had the covers off to watch the operation. It seems there should be an adjustment on the main drive arm to lengthen it a little and it would be OK- short of pulling the whole arm off and welding in a piece is there any other options? :confuse:
  • partsmanpartsman Member Posts: 16
    Sometimes when you bother these plugs they never reseal. Not sure if yours is the same as mine but just yesterday I switched back to the green coolant and to flush it out- right next to the cruise control motor is a pump with heater hoses on it, I disconnected it and attached the hose nozzle to it with the water on low pressure. With the radiator cap off I started the engine with both heaters running and let the coolant flush itself. When refilling remember there is still water in the block so put coolant in full strength and use a coolant mixture gauge to test the strength of the mix, and don't forget to bleed the system there are two bleeders and I've found it can sometimes take a couple weeks to fully get all the trapped air out ,just carefully crack the bleeders every so often when hot- till the air stops and just coolant comes out . If you notice the temp. gauge climbing there is still trapped air.
  • gotmickgotmick Member Posts: 1
    Do yourself a favor now and don't put Dex-cool back in it! Major class-action lawsuit underway, it causes corrosion to everything it touches. Stick with the green.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    There's a motor for each side. But they are wired to the same swithch that reverses voltage to them. Susposedly fused at 10 amps. I don't know if the fuse is in the underhood fuse block or the one on the right end of the dash. Somewhat suspicious that both windows won't open. I think it's marked PWR Qrt window. If the fuse is OK could be the switch is bad. I recall you have to remove the rear lap belt anchor to remove the trim panel to get to the motor. If you can get the plug off the motor check to see if you are getting 12V and if polarity reverses when the switch is move from open to close.
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    the cruise control on my 02 venture, 45k, has quit working. it will not engage. after checking the fuses, what else should i check?

    edit: the driver side rear brake light keeps burning out. last year, while still under warranty, the dealer replaced the lamp assembly because it had melted. now that same assembly keeps burning bulbs.

    apparently the bulb that i replaced 4 days ago burned out again! that's why the cruise will not work, if i understand correctly? i'm off to the dealer since it has been less than 12 months/12,000 miles (barely)!
  • partsmanpartsman Member Posts: 16
    Tried having someone push on the windows didn't work , must be a power problem, will troubleshoot further this weekend when I'm off- thanks for info.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Your brake lights are more than likely causing your cruise control problems. I know it sounds crazy, but brake bulbs not working will cause problems with the cruise control.

    Good luck.
  • evelyn14evelyn14 Member Posts: 2
    :cry: Hi I own a Montana 2000, about two to three months ago while driving in the highway it shut down by itself, we had to push it to the side, it started again five to ten minutes later. Then about a month ago it shut itself again and now it won't start, whe changed the gas pump and gas filter, checked the sparks, everything seems to be good. We are pretty sure that it's an electric problem, we took it to the dealer and the dealer did not find the problem.
    PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ANY INFO WILL BE APPRECIATED
    THANKS
    EVELYN (from canada) :cry:
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    Yes these two are related. If you replace the burned out light that should restore your cruise control.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Re the Class Action. Will it be sent to all GM van owners. Is there any docs on this issue?
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    i thought they were related, however when i replace the bulb, it flashes then goes out again. the filament doesn't look burnt/broke, but it will not light up! i have an appointment at the dealer on monday. i hate having a brake light out!!! :mad:
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    Please post the dealer's fix when you get your car back.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    If you put DexCool in your search engine, it will bring up Class action information that you can complete and have your name on file as looks if GM and makers of DexCool are in for hefty legal action.
  • dinosilosdinosilos Member Posts: 1
    This is a short story on my experience with intake manifold gasket and a request for suggestions on what to do:

    I have an 98 Olds Silo with 140k km on it. Reading the posts on the gasket issues with the 3.4l engine made me pay attention to my coolant level. To my dissapointment - I had noticed loss of coolant but no apparent external leaks. Few days ago I heard "lifter" noise coming from the top of the engine (upon a cold start) and I realized I was doomed - the coolant must have leaked and mixed with oil, causing the lifters to seize or something similar. I knew I would have to change the manifold gasket, but now I would have to do the lifters as well.

    I decided to not take my van to my friend mechanic but go to GM dealer and had it inspected. I left the van overnight so that they can start it cold, hear the noise and give me a 2k+ estimate for repairs. Sure enough, that is what happened so I went down to hear the details from them. Upon a short discussion with the service rep, I was informed that all 12 lifters, gasket and some other stuff needed to be done, all for $2100 including labor. As I could not leave the van that day, I arranged with the service rep to bring in the van for repairs next week.
    I started my van and had not even left the dealer parking lot, when the oil pressure light came on (blinking). I may have driven 50 meters and maybe 2 minutes max. I immediately stopped the engine and was shocked to see a big puddle of oil below the engine. Upon inspection of the engine the technician said that the oil pressure built up in the engine and busted out the seal between the oil filter and the engine - almost all of the oil went through that opening and sprayed all over. They replaced the oil and the filter and the technician started the engine. He reved the engine a couple of times and allegedly saw the oil filter expanding and turned the engine off. The technician said that the "oil pressure valve" is clogged and that the engine is practically gone!!! He recommended I start looking for an used engine right away.

    Can you please answer/comment on the following:

    1. Has anyone else heard of such severe consequences due to the intake manifold gasket leaking coolant to the crank case?

    2. What could have caused such pressure within the engine to blow out the oil filter and its seal?

    3. What other parts within the engine could have suffered from this momentary high oil pressure and from exposure to the contaminated oil?

    4. What is the "oil pressure valve" and could it have clogged by the goo resulting from the oil-coolant mix? Can it be easily replaced and/or cleaned?

    5. How can I be sure that the engine is damaged beyond reasonable repair?

    6. what are my other options?

    Now that I am facing the purchase of a used engine and its installation I am wondering if I should first try to repair my engine or just go for used. A used engine will most likely have the old leaky gasket so I would have to replace it before putting it in.

    Any comments and/or suggestions?
    If my story isn't making sense please ask me for details...

    thanks
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    I thought I was the only one with sporadic rear vents! Thank again Don.

    D
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    Sorry to hear of your troubles. When something serious like that happens, sometimes you can't bring it back next week.

    Who knows what happened exactly, but coolant and oil makes a milkshake sort of mixture. Enough coolant in the oil could cause the entire crankcase to fill up, and that could cause over-pressure when the engine rotates and combustion takes place.

    Suffice it to say, you have few options and its all over except for the crying as they say. Used vs. having yours rebuilt - depends on how good yours was before it blew up and the compentency of shop. Granted a pushrod v6 is not rocket science, but most mechnics are used to swapping out parts and maybe installing a transmission, not doing an entire engine rebuild. Given shop $ rates per hour, unless they give you a firm price, I'd lean towards a bolt-in. If it were my van however, the motor was working great I'd have it rebuilt or do it myself.

    If you have full coverage maybe you can light the oil on fire? LOL

    DD
  • alienalien Member Posts: 4
    Hello all,

    So we get our 2000 Montana back from the dealer after they installed the coated service pistons to correct the start-up rattle. A few days go by and then - GET THIS -300 MILES - after the repair the noise is back. It is reduced in intensity and does not last as long as it used to but the noise is definitely back. I thought I would get a few years of piece of mind after the repair but no such luck.

    I called the service manager back and received the usual spiel about how the noise does not hurt anything and how they did not have any documented failures resulting from the rattle. Nothing more he could do for us he said. What a bummer!

    I remember a posting on this board where somebody else had theirs repaired and the noise did not come back until much later.

    My thinking is my cylinder bores are somewhat sloppy or the pistons were undersized but in any case the coated pistons are a band-aid from GM with out a real resolution.
    When we bought this van we went into debt to get us good transportation for years to come that's why this is a tough pill to swallow.

    If we could afford to trade it off we would do so in a heartbeat. :mad:

    Thanks for listening.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    Sorry to hear of your trouble(s).
    First lower manifold gasket failure (leak) can allow coolant to either leak to the outside of the engine where you eventually should see it......... or leak internally into the crankcase and mix with the oil. If the later you should see a milky looking substance on the dipstick. NOW I'm really susprised if the dealer had your van overnight and if the leak were internal, they didn't say something about what they found. You can still look at the dipstick. It's bad news if it leaks into the oil. Antifreeze generally causes bearing failures when mixed with engine oil. I have no idea why your oil pressure would be high. Also don't know why you'd need 12 new lifters.
    I'd see what your mechanic friend has to say. I'm not sure if GM has a crate replacement engine for these vans or not. If so I'd compare the price of new vs a used one. Often a new engine isn't much more and you get some warranty.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    The pistons were replaced on my 98 van around 30k miles. At that time I wasn't aware of any special coating but they were fitted. The work ticket showed that one piston was returned because of fit. Like yours, the noise was reduced but still there. That was 80k miles ago. I'm still using 5W-30 oil with negliable consumption. I have found the noise is almost undetectable if the engine is below 50 degs or so when started.
    A couple days ago I rented a Monte Carlo with the 3.4l engine. It was even a little noisy at start. I think I'd drive the thing, keep a routine check of fluid levels and not worry unless it gets noticably worse.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    >My thinking is my cylinder bores are somewhat sloppy or the pistons were undersized but in any case the coated pistons are a band-aid from GM with out a real resolution.
    When we bought this van we went into debt to get us good transportation for years to come that's why this is a tough pill to swallow.
    > (end quote)

    See my post #24

    While a bit odd sounding, its not really anything to worry about, the engine will be fine.
  • alienalien Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply dirk and n7don, I am surprised I am not getting more comments on this issue as there are hundreds of thousands of these vehicles out there. I looked up your early posting dirk and just like you indicated it is matter of loose manufacturing tolerances because not all 3.4 engines exhibit the noise. Many do but not all. New pistons properly fitted should not produce any rattles.

    I saw the new pistons at the dealer and while I do not have exact skirt lenght measurement they were not really short nor was there anything special about them.

    Our gas mileage has been OK not great. We usually get just over 18 mpg in city and suburban driving and on the road trips mileage has been around 23 so it is about 10% below advertised and on par with Kia vans.
    With ac on and light load the engine does not have enough torque to pull the tall gearing up much of a hill without shifting down, sometimes all the way down to 3rd gear. Dirk I know you'll disagree with this but that's how I perceive it. And I live in eastern Kansas it is supposed to flat here!!!
    I recently rented a Dodge van with a 3.8L and the difference was quite noticeable.

    I had piston slap in my old Volvo and it kept on running for years so I know the noise likely will not cause any sudden failures but it irritates me to no end.

    Will be taking a road trip here shortly with the van all loaded up so we'll see how my mileage is.

    alien
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    When my pistons were replaced the reason was wrist-pin clearance was susposedly the noise source.... not "piston slap". There was a TSB on the issue. My fuel economy ranges between 22-24 but I don't do much heavy city traffic driving. While the 3.4 isn't a powerhouse I've pulled our 2800 lb Coleman. The only time I've really felt the lack of torque is going to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. There's a significant altitude change in a short distance. Otherwise, I generally run in D3, get around 18 and run 65-70. If the engine wants to run 4000 on a hill I let it.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    My wife noticed some " bubbling" in the paint at the bottom edge of the rear hatch ( interior side)

    I scraped a bit of that and the paint fly away just to show a reddish metal condition.... this situation is visible for almost the lenght of the door for about 1/2 " in width.

    Am I not impressed...a new vehicule shouldn't rust that fast.The car payment will last longer ( 4 years ) ! There is no other contibuting factor than poor metal preparation or poor paint application.

    It is common to see that paint defect on the triplets ??
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