Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Check the oil. HG problems usually, although not always, result in water in the oil. If the oil is milky or odd looking, don't drive it, get it towed to shop and repaired.
It does sound like a head gasket problem. I had a Shadow turbo that went through two HG's, and the first one looked like I had smoke pouring out the exhaust (but it was steam) and it would overheat really bad, took me while to nurse it home the 3 miles.
A shop can put a sniffer into the coolant to see if there are traces of exhaust in the coolant tank, another sure sign.
Also, usually the car with a blown HG will run a bit off, while a failed intake gasket will run pretty normally.
I have not heard of anyone having HG's failure on this motor before, but I'm sure it happens.
Also, check to see if your coolant level is up, and the air bubbles are purged from the system.
Post back when you find out what the problem is.
D
Thanks!
DD
Front attachment:
Rear attachment:
Block rear wheels, transmission in neutral and I used bar to rotate engine forward. Once forward, I put the screwdriver thru a chainlink to hold at that position. Watch for anything that can poke a hole in the radiator as you rotate the engine.
when i get the van USED, it came with no remotes. I assume that since it has power locks, it must have keyless.
if it does, how do I program them? I have some keyless fobs from a 00 Sunfire GT, will they work? I do not have a power sliding door.
GM 102459451
CANADA 218 101 487
MODEL/FCC ID: ABO0204T note the first 3 characters are alpha ABO
If the Sunfire remotes don't have this info, they probably won't work.
"Transmitter Programming
If you lose a transmitter, program the old and new transmitter(s) into the remote control door lock receiver's memory. Up to 4 transmitters may be programmed.
Important
Once the remote control door lock receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information, requiring the programming of all transmitters.
Program only 1 vehicle remote control door lock receiver at a time. If more than 1 receiver is being programmed at the same time, it is possible that the same transmitter could be programmed to more than 1 remote control door lock receiver
Perform the following steps in order to program the transmitter:
Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Remove the BCM PRGRM fuse from the fuse panel. Refer to Electrical Center Identification Views in Wiring Systems.
Close all of the doors.
Close the liftgate.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder to ACC.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second.
Open and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard when the system enters the BCM programming/diagnostic mode.
Important
After 7 seconds, a chime may be heard confirming successful synchronization. It is necessary to wait approximately 14 seconds for a second chime that will confirm successful programming.
Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed.
Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Install the BCM PRGRM fuse back into the fuse panel. Refer to Electrical Center Identification Views in Wiring Systems."
You're looking for option code AU0. If you can't find the label, post the last 8 digits of your VIN and I'll look it up.
p.s. I don't believe the Sunfire remote will work for your van.
I know you put the pwhiper on intermittant. Then they stop a few seconds in the upper position, turn off the key.
Here is where i get confused.. Do I have to unscrew the wipers and lower them to the parked position? (ie, losen the nut on the wiper, pull it off ect?) because I think I need apuller tool to remove them.
I read that the is a metal tab to "bend" back in shape. also can't find this.
Anyone have the detailed instructions in lamens terms?
thanks!
Eric
I am going to change dexcool in my 2001 Venture. Is there a block engine coolant drain plug in 3.4 l engine? Where is it located? I would like to drain block if I can.
Thanks in advance
Well I finally decided to take our 2000 Montana in to be looked at for the famous piston slap. It started using oil this past winter and also I was gradually loosing coolant, not much but I like to keep the level up at the "full cold" mark.
The oil consumption was probably not enough where GM would consider it a problem but at 45K the van was using more oil than our old Volvo wagon at 160K!
I also saw it as an indication something was changing or deteriorating in the engine.
Tough call whether or not to let somebody rip into our engine but with summer travel plans approaching I took the plunge. Thank God for the extended engine warranty I got from GM last summer.
At the dealer I got to take a look the parts last night. Unfortunately they did not share the old pistons so I do not know how they looked.
As far as thev new pistons, much to my surprise they are not extremely short skirted or revolutionary in design. All of them were polymer coated on thrust surfaces. The cylinder bores-some of them- had some light grayish discoloration on top but no heavy scratches or scoring. Not sure what to think of the bores.
Dealer indicated they do not measure the bores they just change out the pistons.
Mechanic indicated the rattle would likely return after the coating wears down but still considered the 3.4L a good engine.
He also said my intake gasket was starting to go and would have leaked internally before too long.
Overall with my limited experience I did not see anything terribly wrong with any of components I observed. I have seen lots of motorcycle engine guts but not cars.
Dealer did not indicate straight up what they thought the cause of the noise was.
I had some coolant residue at the base of the pipe coming up from the intake, dealer is replacing the intake as well hopefully. New waterpump also.
I am paying for new thermostat, spark plugs and plug wires just because all that stuff is now so easy to change compared to when everything is back to together.
Just hoping it will all go back together right!
Will keep you posted.
Alien10
Thanks
Montana 2000
My dome lights randomely turn on when even when the van is unatended. They dim away then turn back on, the process will continue until I manualy turn off the lights.
I assumed it was a bad conenctor at a sliding door, trunk ect.. but can't pinpoint the problem.
I don't know if this is related, but on the driver's side sliding door, the power locks work "when they want to" but the lock is not stiff or anything.
I tried to clean and sand the contacts on the sliding doors but no go..
Any suggestions?
I'm having the same trouble with the automatic side door. I tried the re-initiallizing procedure to no avail. I also have no action in the driver's power seat. The fuses all check out ok, but no power at the seat or door. Something does click back by the side door motor, but nothing moves. All switches are on, etc. Any ideas? Thanks
Also, older dome lights used to have power and the switch actually grounded the circuit to turn it on. So that could be the problem, the door switch. But on new vehicles, the computer actually turns them off too, so perhaps my advice is not good....
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
Thanks!
D
That is exactly what I found out - I did a little checking and noticed the pin on my drivers side tail light no longer existed and a bit of a burn mark. Replace the assembly and it works great.
Joe
No! Leave the wipers alone! You unscrew/ loosen the wiper crank arm which is on the wiper motor under a plastic cover under the hood on the passenger side. Then rotate the crank and the wipers together until they are down, then retighten the crank arm.
edit: the driver side rear brake light keeps burning out. last year, while still under warranty, the dealer replaced the lamp assembly because it had melted. now that same assembly keeps burning bulbs.
apparently the bulb that i replaced 4 days ago burned out again! that's why the cruise will not work, if i understand correctly? i'm off to the dealer since it has been less than 12 months/12,000 miles (barely)!
Good luck.
PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ANY INFO WILL BE APPRECIATED
THANKS
EVELYN (from canada)
I have an 98 Olds Silo with 140k km on it. Reading the posts on the gasket issues with the 3.4l engine made me pay attention to my coolant level. To my dissapointment - I had noticed loss of coolant but no apparent external leaks. Few days ago I heard "lifter" noise coming from the top of the engine (upon a cold start) and I realized I was doomed - the coolant must have leaked and mixed with oil, causing the lifters to seize or something similar. I knew I would have to change the manifold gasket, but now I would have to do the lifters as well.
I decided to not take my van to my friend mechanic but go to GM dealer and had it inspected. I left the van overnight so that they can start it cold, hear the noise and give me a 2k+ estimate for repairs. Sure enough, that is what happened so I went down to hear the details from them. Upon a short discussion with the service rep, I was informed that all 12 lifters, gasket and some other stuff needed to be done, all for $2100 including labor. As I could not leave the van that day, I arranged with the service rep to bring in the van for repairs next week.
I started my van and had not even left the dealer parking lot, when the oil pressure light came on (blinking). I may have driven 50 meters and maybe 2 minutes max. I immediately stopped the engine and was shocked to see a big puddle of oil below the engine. Upon inspection of the engine the technician said that the oil pressure built up in the engine and busted out the seal between the oil filter and the engine - almost all of the oil went through that opening and sprayed all over. They replaced the oil and the filter and the technician started the engine. He reved the engine a couple of times and allegedly saw the oil filter expanding and turned the engine off. The technician said that the "oil pressure valve" is clogged and that the engine is practically gone!!! He recommended I start looking for an used engine right away.
Can you please answer/comment on the following:
1. Has anyone else heard of such severe consequences due to the intake manifold gasket leaking coolant to the crank case?
2. What could have caused such pressure within the engine to blow out the oil filter and its seal?
3. What other parts within the engine could have suffered from this momentary high oil pressure and from exposure to the contaminated oil?
4. What is the "oil pressure valve" and could it have clogged by the goo resulting from the oil-coolant mix? Can it be easily replaced and/or cleaned?
5. How can I be sure that the engine is damaged beyond reasonable repair?
6. what are my other options?
Now that I am facing the purchase of a used engine and its installation I am wondering if I should first try to repair my engine or just go for used. A used engine will most likely have the old leaky gasket so I would have to replace it before putting it in.
Any comments and/or suggestions?
If my story isn't making sense please ask me for details...
thanks
D
Who knows what happened exactly, but coolant and oil makes a milkshake sort of mixture. Enough coolant in the oil could cause the entire crankcase to fill up, and that could cause over-pressure when the engine rotates and combustion takes place.
Suffice it to say, you have few options and its all over except for the crying as they say. Used vs. having yours rebuilt - depends on how good yours was before it blew up and the compentency of shop. Granted a pushrod v6 is not rocket science, but most mechnics are used to swapping out parts and maybe installing a transmission, not doing an entire engine rebuild. Given shop $ rates per hour, unless they give you a firm price, I'd lean towards a bolt-in. If it were my van however, the motor was working great I'd have it rebuilt or do it myself.
If you have full coverage maybe you can light the oil on fire? LOL
DD
So we get our 2000 Montana back from the dealer after they installed the coated service pistons to correct the start-up rattle. A few days go by and then - GET THIS -300 MILES - after the repair the noise is back. It is reduced in intensity and does not last as long as it used to but the noise is definitely back. I thought I would get a few years of piece of mind after the repair but no such luck.
I called the service manager back and received the usual spiel about how the noise does not hurt anything and how they did not have any documented failures resulting from the rattle. Nothing more he could do for us he said. What a bummer!
I remember a posting on this board where somebody else had theirs repaired and the noise did not come back until much later.
My thinking is my cylinder bores are somewhat sloppy or the pistons were undersized but in any case the coated pistons are a band-aid from GM with out a real resolution.
When we bought this van we went into debt to get us good transportation for years to come that's why this is a tough pill to swallow.
If we could afford to trade it off we would do so in a heartbeat. :mad:
Thanks for listening.
First lower manifold gasket failure (leak) can allow coolant to either leak to the outside of the engine where you eventually should see it......... or leak internally into the crankcase and mix with the oil. If the later you should see a milky looking substance on the dipstick. NOW I'm really susprised if the dealer had your van overnight and if the leak were internal, they didn't say something about what they found. You can still look at the dipstick. It's bad news if it leaks into the oil. Antifreeze generally causes bearing failures when mixed with engine oil. I have no idea why your oil pressure would be high. Also don't know why you'd need 12 new lifters.
I'd see what your mechanic friend has to say. I'm not sure if GM has a crate replacement engine for these vans or not. If so I'd compare the price of new vs a used one. Often a new engine isn't much more and you get some warranty.
A couple days ago I rented a Monte Carlo with the 3.4l engine. It was even a little noisy at start. I think I'd drive the thing, keep a routine check of fluid levels and not worry unless it gets noticably worse.
When we bought this van we went into debt to get us good transportation for years to come that's why this is a tough pill to swallow.
> (end quote)
See my post #24
While a bit odd sounding, its not really anything to worry about, the engine will be fine.
I saw the new pistons at the dealer and while I do not have exact skirt lenght measurement they were not really short nor was there anything special about them.
Our gas mileage has been OK not great. We usually get just over 18 mpg in city and suburban driving and on the road trips mileage has been around 23 so it is about 10% below advertised and on par with Kia vans.
With ac on and light load the engine does not have enough torque to pull the tall gearing up much of a hill without shifting down, sometimes all the way down to 3rd gear. Dirk I know you'll disagree with this but that's how I perceive it. And I live in eastern Kansas it is supposed to flat here!!!
I recently rented a Dodge van with a 3.8L and the difference was quite noticeable.
I had piston slap in my old Volvo and it kept on running for years so I know the noise likely will not cause any sudden failures but it irritates me to no end.
Will be taking a road trip here shortly with the van all loaded up so we'll see how my mileage is.
alien
I scraped a bit of that and the paint fly away just to show a reddish metal condition.... this situation is visible for almost the lenght of the door for about 1/2 " in width.
Am I not impressed...a new vehicule shouldn't rust that fast.The car payment will last longer ( 4 years ) ! There is no other contibuting factor than poor metal preparation or poor paint application.
It is common to see that paint defect on the triplets ??