GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

jhd · May 2006

There is a class action suit against GM for leaky intake manifolds, separate in the US and now in Canada. I have two GM cars and tomorrow is my third visit to the dealer with dexcool running down the engine. Enough is enough, I want my money I spent on the repairs back. Do the search on the net, class actions are easy to find. :lemon:

cccjpm · May 2006

I'm about to have my SECOND gasket replaced in my 2000 Olds Silo two years and 31K miles after the first. I did get GM to do a 50/50 "good will" split and since GM was paying for half it was done at "warranty cost" which saved me a little more. Now two years later and WAY out of warranty no one (GM or the dealership that sold it and has already repaired it once) is willing to do anything. This will probably be my last GM auto and definitely the last from that dealership.

The van was great for the first three years (while it was under warranty) and was the best deal when I bought it. The three years after the warranty ran out haven't been the best experience. I spent more on the van in the time I've had it than I did in the 11 years I had my '94 Maxima until I blew the engine in the Maxima. Yep, you guessed it... leaking gasket...

but that was on a 12 year-old vehicle where the temp gage wasn't working. I should have fixed the temp gage and I probably wouldn't have blown the engine (hindsight being what it is)...

Well I'm not going to give the dealership or GM the $700 to fix it this time (they did such a good job last time that I'm having to do it again). A buddy of mine is a mechanic and will do it for less but it's still too expensive to fix a MANUFACTURING DEFECT that GM isn't standing behind.

Sad.

euphorbia · May 2006

I have two issues that may be related to a vacuum leak. One is the heat/defrost vent doors don't open properly and I get minimal airflow when in all settings except vent and bi-level. The second issue is the A/C shutting down at highway speed under minor acceleration. Both of these issues are new. My vacuum gage reads 18"hg at idle with a/c off and 17 with a/c on. Is that a normal reading for the 3.4 engine?

euphorbia · May 2006

Ref. #1392. I forgot to mention that when I step on the accelerator in Park the RPM's get to the point that the engine suddenly slows down, speeds back up and suddenly slows down again repeatedly. I had the same thing happen on another car with a vacuum leak. Any input is appreciated.
Euphorbia

boga228 · June 2006

To all who have their van still under warranty, If you suspect that you have a coolant/oil gasket leak, I would recommend that you get it repaired. They have the new intake gasket p/n 89017279. Make sure you refer them to Service Bulletin 03-06-01-010, because of the new torque Spec's

euphorbia · June 2006

I have a 2002 Olds Silhouette with front and rear air. For the past month the van sends cold air then warm air thru the ducts. I can feel the compressor cycling on and off as this happens.

I purchased a Chiltons HVAC manual and a set of gages to diagnose the problem. The Chiltons manual is so general that I am not getting anything from it. The gages indicate relatively normal low (About 32 psi) and high pressures (about 310 psi) at idle with the system on max. As I increase the throttle from about 1200 to 2000 rpm the high pressure quickly climbs to about 435 psi and the compressor shuts off. From these symptoms can anyone diagnose what is wrong with the system?

indrgb · June 2006

Are the condenser fans (behind the radiator) running during idle? If no, there's your problem. If yes, then I would guess either non-condensibles in the system or perhaps a restricted condenser coil.

Another thought: Has the system ever been charged? Maybe someone charged it with R-22 by mistake.

Yet another thought: If the expansion device is a TXV, it could be stuck, or filled with trash causing the high side to back up.

mariannesam · June 2006

Replaced rear factory air shocks with Gabriels from Autozone.
Also installed kit. Could not find regulator that kit says to remove. Problem is compressor goes off every time get in van, What is problem?
Height seems OK. Is it the electrical height sensor? Can it be calibrated? Did put in new spring in dryer. Where does line from dryer go? Seems like it goes into side of van and comes out again to a T and then to shocks? What is the 1/4 inch tube from compressor T to frame for -- is it for the aux value for pumping up balls and tires from the hatch area? Is it unregulated?

Also, how hard is it to replace outer tie rod ends? Any tricks besides a pickle fork? Thanks.

n7don · June 2006

To remove the tie rod ends you'll need a steering linkage puller. I'd check availability from someone like Autozone for loan. Count the turns when removing the old part. Also make some reference measurements so when installing new ends the same number of turns, you are still in the ballpark. I had to do some tweaking. Finally you should get alignment checked. Toe is the only adjustable setting on our vans. GM torque specs are 22 ft-lbs plus 120 deg (2 flats).. this is for a 98 Montana but would guess the same.
There is a TSB on a new tie rod end and how to sand the sharp edge that "cuts" the rubber boots. The LF boot was cut on mine. However I replaced with Autozone units. They have grease fittings and a different geometry on the boot. I will say at 100K miles mine were still tight.

Can't comment on your other question

boga228 · June 2006

Tie rod end removal. really you don't need a puller just used a hammer to remove, unscrew the nut and pound on the stud until the it comes off. only time you need a puller if your going to reuse the tire rod end again.

djj48 · June 2006

My 2002 Montana has been leaking water into the RH floor area ever since we bought it new. I took the issue of insufficient evaporator drain nipple length and "missing elbow" up with Pontiac and the dealership after we first got the van. Pontiac refused to address the problem but the dealer tried to glue an elbow on the short drain nipple but it subsequently fell off and my carpet is soaked.

I found out a 1/2" copper 90 degree street ell fits perfectly over the drain nipple and goes all the way into the foam donut. I coated the inside of the elbow with silicone sealer before I put it on. The smaller side of the street elbow points down the front of the firewall and this will direct all the water out of the vehicle.

euphorbia · June 2006

The condenser looks to be in good shape and the cooling fans are running. My guess is that something is restricting the freon flow and allowing the head pressure to rise quickly.

I did have the system charged when it blew a pressure relief valve on the front of the compressor. It happened when I parked the van and leaked off a lot of the oil and charge. The tech that looked at it only works on cars, trucks and semi's so I don't think they even have R22, but I will ask them if they have any in inventory. The tech said that everything looked ok and he could see where it blew but the relief valve looked ok. He recharged it with freon that had die added so that it would mark anywhere it may be leaking.

Your final thought is what I am thinking too. I'm hoping that someone with the same vehicle may have experienced the same thing to confirm.

Thank you for your insight,
Euphorbia

smepps1 · July 2006

I bought an ,01 used in ,o2.We have had troubles ever since.So far I have replaced a heater core,stereo,tie rod ends,AC condenser,intake gasket,and now it is in the shop to have the head gaskets replaced.I sold my Dodge Caravan thinking my troubles would be over.{what was I thinking}I am currently trying to deal with GM to cover anything any suggestions?

psimonl · July 2006

Hi,

For a couple of years (2.5 actually) I came on this forum to read and learn and even sometime ask questions regarding my 2000 Montana with apprx. 100.000 Km.

As for now, My wife and I decided it was time to sell the van. We had put 5K $ on it sin November 2005 and we decided to go japenese.

It all started with the famous intake manifold, followed by 4 suspensions, disks and drums, starter (was 20 000K old :surprise: ) something in the exhaust system, abs light went on without warning even after the 4 wheel bearing were changed... And we are not talking about the transmission that had started to slip and gears where getting noisy. We tried to contact GM, only answered with offers on new vehicles.... :confuse: We tried to Love the van, but couldn't: We used to love that van, but we now felt that everyday, something could break.

Sorry for the bad news, I just don't think American cars are up to it anymore. They are good for as long as the warranty goes.

Take care you all...

Simon

hhua1 · July 2006

Our 2000 silo ran fine. After a short stop, went back out, tried to start the car, I can hear a click than everything went dead it acted like no juice at all from the battery. I thought we were having the famous electrical problems.

Able to get a jump started and went home.

This is what I found out with the battery tester, the one with the little read, amber, green lights and the positive and negative connector at one end.

Anyway, I measured the car body ground and the positive jumper terminal located next to the fuse box on top of the battery, it showed very weak or dead battery. But when I measured the car body ground and the battery's positive terminal itself, it showed the battery was good.

I traced the wire from the positive jumper terminal and it goes directly to the battery positive terminal. I unbolted the battery positive terminal and saw that it was only little corrosion, however look careful there was rust on the bolt inside that connector. I worked the bolt and cleaned it up. Viola it worked.

So before replacing the battery or accusing the electrical gremlins in our van, make sure that all connections are cleaned. Weak battery connections can make our van acts like it has electrical gremlins.

--Hung

kmf · July 2006

Where is the low pressure A/C port on a 99 Venture? I want to recharge the system and can't find the port. (sigh)

Kerry

hhua1 · July 2006

I hand washed the engine of our 00' Silo with engine degrease and garden hose. After the wash I let the Silo sat until it dried. Started the van and it ran fine. However, the front wiper acted wild, in no certain patterns, one example is the ignition switch on and the wiper switch is off, but wiper was running. I knew that the water may have get in the wiper motor and the wiper controler (they are one unit for our van). I let it sat for a day but it didn't help. I was think that I need a new motor. I decided to give it a last try and took the motor off and blew dry it with air compressor of a good 5 to 10 minutes, I blew air in to the motor connector and at the hole at the end of the motor itself. This solved the problem.

So if you your wiper motor acts funny, there may be water in the system, try to high pressure air dry it first before going for a new one.

mariannesam · July 2006

My 1997 Silhouette minivan check engine
soon light came on Friday during rain storm
(7/28/2006). Still on (7/30/2006) after many trips and
code is P0441 (Evap system no flow during purge).

Checked fuel cap, evap canister, and hoses for damage
and cracks. Look OK.

What could it be? Any body have ideas or had this problem?

Thanks.

boga228 · July 2006

check evap canister purge valve if it's working, also check evap vent valve too.

maubrey · August 2006

Hi,

Can anybody give me some information on replacing the radiator on a 97 Venture. I have not had to work on this van before and don't know if I will need to do anything special. Does the rad drop out the bottom, or do you remove the upper engine mounts and lift it straight up?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

dirkwork · August 2006

Well, I haven't done this, but seeing the undercarriage I'd say you would pull it out of the top. The motor mounts are easy to remove. Good luck.

Dirk
98 olds GLS, 130k

ronsmith38 · August 2006

I have a vibration driving above 40 mph. It seems like a pavement vibration with a frequency about that of the off the road indicators if one goes too far right. I have replaced all tires with a front end alignment. The problem is worse on left turn curves. Has anyone else seen this?

gildavis · August 2006

After a collision where the air bags deployed I tried to find the air bag module under the driver's seat. Nothing there. The Engine Control Module is under the Passenger seat. Any one know where I should be looking?

n7don · August 2006

There's an "Inflatable Restaint Sensing & Diagostic Module" or SDM shown under the passenger seat. Looks like it's has a cover w/3 screws.
The ECM should be located in the air cleaner assembly, not under the passenger seat.

cdn_river_man · August 2006

We have a 2001 Venture which just this past summer has a water leak somewhere under the centre consol (I think). At first we thought it was a leak in the windshield and went to an auto glass place but they cannot find a leak. Finally had a good overnight rain and I checked the floor this morning and did not find any water. The floor is getting soaked primarily on the drivers side and it would seem only after driving. The AC system seems to be draining ok. I have removed the trim and pulled back the carpeting to have a good look but am baffled by the consol section.
Any thoughts or advice would be most welcomed.

ekochol · August 2006

Had water on floor drivers side. Was coming from undeerdoor panel onto carpet and running underneath. Lifted off door panel and resealed plastic that keeps water from coming between panel and window . May need some new clips available at auto parts store. Run waater on driverside window and pasenger to see what side leaks :

timotheus · August 2006

I own a 2000 Olds Silouhette. Pretty good vehicle overall, though I have experienced many of the problems I have read about in this forum.
My current issue involves paint delamination on the fiberglass hood panel. There are two significant areas (opposite corners) where there is bubbling and lifting of the paint from the underlying surface. There are no evident scratches or stone chips in these areas and so far, the paint hasn't flaked off.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is GM aware of it and/or willing to step up and take care of it? The paint on a 6 year old vehicle should not be degrading to this extent. Pls let me know if anyone knows about this.
Thanks - Tim

ronsmith38 · September 2006

I think the hood is aluminum not fiberglass. This may point the problem in a different direction, maybe a priming problem. My 2000 Silo does not show this problem, and it sits outside all the time in the NC climate.

gildavis · September 2006

Well, there it is in any case (under passenger seat). I've checked with Delphi/Delco and it is the same as they currently manufacture. We're going to look other places but this is making me a bit crazy. Why do they put things in the wrong place???

n7don · September 2006

Not sure what's in the wrong place. The module under the passenger seat is accessed by removing the seat and lifting the carpet. I'm not sure if you are trying to troubleshoot something or what. Since this is part of the air bag system I'd recommmend, if not familiar, to read up on how to disable the SIR system before proceeding.

jstevens4 · September 2006

I have a 2001 Chevy Venture doing the same.(except it's on right turns!!) We have had the transmission rebuilt, new tires, balancing, new motor mounts, new axles and numerous trips and coversations with dealers & mechanics but nothing has changed. Have you found a solution, because I'm about to go crazy over this. There were some posting awhile back from GM, but they have all been deleted curiously enough. Please help!

escambiaguy · September 2006

I just bought a 04 Venture from my grandparents with only 26k miles. It has been a good van for them but I just started reading about the intake gasket issues. In the service bulletin it talks about 97-03 models. I called three different dealerships and they say that the gaskets in the 04 are no different. One of them said "it's just a bulletin, not a recall if thats what you're thinking", that pissed me off :mad: . I love the van but I don't want to have to watch the temp gauge constantly everytime I drive it. I wonder if the service guys know what they are talking about? If so, why would GM leave out the 04-05 models?

escambiaguy · September 2006

I called one more dealership and the parts guy said the part number is different for the 04 than it is for the 03. I'm not sure what to think. :confuse:

ronsmith38 · September 2006

Yours is the only reply I got. My front tires seem to be wearing out too fast, which leads me to believe it is an alignment problem. I had it realigned at the dealers after I replaced the tires, but the symptom is still there. I plan to take it to an alignment specialist shop and have it redone. Will keep you posted.

jstevens4 · September 2006

My front tires also, have had them less than 1 year, had them aligned and balanced with no change in vibration. I am at my wits end as I feel uncomfortable driving anywhere on the highway because the faster I go, the more it vibrates. Am just waiting for something to shake loose and fall off.. keep me posted.
(spoke with the dealer AGAIN about this and they claim there are no bulletins or defects with regard to a vibration and suggested that we have the transmission looked at again... that was what started this problem, I think.

ronsmith38 · September 2006

It sounds like your vibration problem is much worse than mine. Mine is somewhat subtle, and does not shake the car a great deal. Passengers in the rear don't seem to notice it.

n7don · September 2006

In Oct '03 there was a tsb for replacing the lower manifold gasket with p/n 89017279 PLUS replacing the manifold bolts with ones with pre-applied threadlock. The tsb also included new torque specs for the bolts. So I think your dealer was right, the 04's have a different p/n than previous years.

escambiaguy · September 2006

I have an 04 Venture that I know has been garage kept since new and has seldom been in the sun, but the black finish on the mirrors looks dull and faded. The rest of the van still looks new. I have 2 months left on warranty. Has anyone else noticed this?

slappervan · September 2006

n7don,

Thank you for your reply in the Montana forum, I am posting here as I read this forum more frequently than the Montana forum also.

It is nice to hear that your van is still going strong despite the start-up noise. Our van gets a lot of city and suburban miles on it which means it gets a lot running time in the "rattle-mode".

Replacing the wheel cylinders was fairly easy but I do not think I have all the air bled out yet as the pedal feel is somewhat spongy. The brakes work normally, there is no pumping or anything abnormal required just a little different pedal feel.
I bled the brakes the oldfashioned way with a helper so now my question: Is the bleeding required to be preformed with some special equipment due to ABS, traction control and all that stuff?

Also how do like the Gabriels compared to the originals?

Slappervan

n7don · September 2006

As mentioned mine has the cold start "tick" sometimes more noticeable than others but stops after a minute.
When replacing the wheel cyl. I used a Minivac on the RR to suck out the air but couldn't get it to work on the LF. I used a helper (the wife)to bleed it. I believe dirkdaddy did it with a helper too. There is a bleeding sequence to follow if you get air in the system such as changing the master cyl.
I recently bought a DIYer brake bleeder from this outfit: http://www.motiveproducts.com/01products.html
I have used it on my 95 S-10 and it worked well. Amazing how dark the fluid looked. The S-10 brake pedal is firmer now. Plan on doing the same with the Montana when projects subside.
Gabriels vs OE.... actually couldn't tell any difference. The OE had started to leak and I knew it wouldn't heal itself. At the time Gabriels were available but I did have to put different fittings on to adapt to the shock.

just4fun2 · September 2006

The manual states that you have to bleed the right rear, then the left front. Then the left rear and then the right front. It has something to do with the diagonal braking system. Good luck.

ssullivan · October 2006

Glad I found the right page to post on. My son's 99 Montana has a problem with the heat control, i.e. there isn't any !! Everything else works great, air flow control, a/c ect. etc. I'm afraid the daughter-in-law and the 4 grand-daughters are gonna be upset with the boy and I if we don't don't figure out something !! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
Mark

n7don · October 2006

There was an issue with 97-99's where at low rpm and low outside temperatures not enough coolant was circulating thru the heater to maintain comfort. The "fix" was installing a small inline pump in the heater circuit to increase flow.

ssullivan · October 2006

I do appreciate the reply. We found that the hoses entering and exiting the fire wall are both hot but not being exchanged by the fan and circulated in the "cock pit"...so to speak. I'm not familiar with a system this complicated. Remember the days when under the hood, right there in plain sight were the heater hoses and a simple vaccum switch? It was either working or it wasn't. Thanks again

n7don · October 2006

There's a couple fuses associated with the temperature control system. One also supplies power to the radio and it's in the underhood fuse block. If his radio is working then the fuse isn't blown. The other fuse, labeled HVAC/DRL is in the fuse block on the pass. side and end of the dash. It also controls the daylight running lamps (DRL). Both are 10 amp fuses. Again if the DRLs are working then the fuse would be good. Other than fuses, could be several things but beyond my scope to go into details on this forum.

just4fun2 · October 2006

I finally replaced the air filter myself on my 2002 Silhouette and it wasn't that bad as I have been lead to believe. I believe the secret to getting the flexible air duct off is to do it when the engine is at operating temperature as this makes the duct softer and easier to move around. First take off the duct from the throttle body side and then remove the other side. You have to disconnect one tube from the duct, but you can leave the other wires connected and move the duct carefully.

The bottom of the air box cover has to be slipped into 4 slots which if you take your time and put some light down there, you can see what you are doing.

I also cleaned the throttle body while I was doing the air filter so I won't have to go back in there for a while

mscheffler · November 2006

It's only happened twice in the last couple of years, but it's highly embarassing. Both times I've been driving down the road and my alarm suddenly starts going off. Of course I turn it off with the remote entry keypad and it's fine for a couple of minutes until it does it again. This process repeats several times until I guess the van warms up or I finally completely stop and turn the the van off. I feel like a thief driving down the road in a stolen minivan. Has anyone had this happen to them??

ronsmith38 · November 2006

How did you clean the throttle body? Thanks.

bob550k · December 2006

The ride leveling is becoming a problem on our Old silo.

Has anyone bypassed the auto leveling and just used the rear shocks like regular air shocks?

The ride level is going up, but not going down. The vent for the system is not venting. I had new shocks put on recently but that should not be affecting the vent process.

bob550k · December 2006

I need the diagnostic proceedure for the ride level, the proceedure I have is incorrect on the wire colors for a 1999 Old Silo Premiere. Or my van has a goofy harness.

GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

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