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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions

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  • ppcdc30ppcdc30 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2006 Corolla auto with 6,000 miles. I have been using convential Quaker State 10w 30 motor oil since I bought the car 3,000 miles ago. My milage is averaging 24-26 MPG 60% city and 40% Highway. Using Ky reformilated fuel with ethanol. The best tank since I have had the car was 28. This was my first full up.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Just follow what's in the owner's manual, except I would not do the inspections.

    For example, the manual lists inspect brakes, inspect x, inspect y, etc. at early miles, but I would not bother. Just do the oil changes, and other CHANGES and REPLACEMENTS, when it says to do so in the manual.
  • fredvhfredvh Member Posts: 857
    What state are you located in?
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Member Posts: 1,757
    Why aren't you using the recommended motor oil for the Corolla? The owner's manual states that 5w-30 should be used.
  • ppcdc30ppcdc30 Member Posts: 18
    Sorry that was a typo. I am using 5w 30.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Hello all-

    My brother is having a problem with his car where it makes a squealing noise when he turns. One of his friends says that it may be a CV joint, but he thinks that it could be something to do with the brakes. I was wondering if there was somebody out there who could give me a link to the schematics of the brakes so he can try and repair that himself? Another person says that it may be the bearings. Are those easy enough to repack by someone who is knowledgeable in that sort of thing.

    Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank you for your time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    He could have worn brake pads in the front and the squeal is the warning system the pads use when thickness is at a minimum. He should be able to swap out brake pads if he has a repair manual. Some brake systems require depressing the caliper pistons and some require rotating them in order to install the pads, and it's good to know which one that car uses.
  • ppcdc30ppcdc30 Member Posts: 18
    I am located in Northern Kentucky.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    Hello-

    I posted a question similar to this before, but my brother's car squeals as if his brakes were going bad, but only when he's turning. Could that still be the brakes or could it be something else?

    Again the squeal is the high pitched "your brakes are dying" sort of warning signal so you know when to replace the pads. His car does not make a grinding sound, as when metal is rubbing on the rotor, as far as I could hear.

    Thanks anybody for responses.
  • sandcha2010sandcha2010 Member Posts: 1
    Armorol Wet/Dry Wax
  • sweetknesssweetkness Member Posts: 2
    So I've been having this probelm for a few months now. Once I start my car, when I'm coming to the first few stops, or going in reverse, the car starts to shake a little then dies. When I try to give it gas, very little seems to get through, like the lines are plugged, and I can't accelerate. Again this is mainly while stopped just after starting. I have have tune ups recently, spark plugs look fine. I was told that my fuel filter cannot/doesn't need to be replaced. The only other problem I have been experiencing that could be related is if I drive more than about 30 miles above 60, my check engine light comes on, then goes back off a few days later. I was told that it is because of an oxygen sensor, could this be causing the problems discussed earlier??? Please help, I have taken it to one mechanic and gotten nowhere.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure faulty oxygen sensor could create all kinds of problems. But a good mechanic should be able to identify the problem. If your check engine light came on, the computer is probably storing an error code for you.

    MrShiftright
    Visiting Host
  • sweetknesssweetkness Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Apparently the error code was related to one of my oxygen sensors. I know there are probably some better mechanics I can go to, but I really want to get an idea of what it could be instead of going there and paying for 5 different things before the problem is found.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the 02 sensor code is tricky, because all that means is that the 02 sensor is upset...whether IT'S bad, or something else is bad that is causing it to malfunction---that's the question that a good mechanic can decipher.

    If he does replace the 02 sensor, get a factory one, not an aftermarket one. Buy it from Toyota.
  • mikebalmikebal Member Posts: 8
    Hi, Can anyone suggest where I can order a repair or shop guide for my 2005 Corolla online?? Thanks in advance, Mike
  • sales2010sales2010 Member Posts: 33
    Maybe e-bay
  • tiffdtiffd Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Toyota corolla s and its every 7 months on the day i have to change my breaks. I talked to the dealer and they said it was me, the last time i had to change them i was very careful, never slamed on the breaks, didnt ride them or anything, still 7 months to the day i am changing them. this has been 3 times now. is anyone else having this problem or is it just me? please help me!!!!!!! :cry:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You don't mention which brakes, but I'm assuming it is the front brake pads since they are the first to wear out and do the majority of the stopping. Normally you should be able to get 20-30K (or even more) on a set of brake pads. So that tells me that either you are a very fast/aggressive driver, you drive with your left foot resting on the brake pedal, or there is something wrong with the vehicle. Only you would know whether you are the cause or not.

    Problems in the brake system would be a little unusual in a 2 yr old vehicle, but not out of the realm of possibility. This is probably why the dealership is suspecting you are the problem. Could be a sticking caliper, perhaps a blockage/crimp in the brake line, defective master cylinder, etc.

    If you let go of the steering wheel while driving, does the vehicle drift to the right or left and the steering wheel turn by itself? If it does, this could be an indication of a sticking caliper on the side it drifts to.
  • tiffdtiffd Member Posts: 2
    I only drive with one foot and no im not an aggressive driver. I have noticed that the car shakes when I go to stop. what does that mean? i mean i bought the extended thing and everything but the dealer only looks at the brakes nothing else. I beleive if they look at something else they will see its the car not me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    it means your brake rotors are warped which could explain your severe brake wear.
  • merelymeremerelymere Member Posts: 4
    I've always been told it's a good idea to change your oil in a brand new car within the first 1000 miles to get any engine debris out from first use.
  • fanfare783fanfare783 Member Posts: 2
    I have an '06 corolla, when my check engine light came on i was told i needed to have the fuel pump replaced, however, i was told the computer also would need to be replaced since the new fuel pump cannot be calibrated with the current computer. is this so, or am i being taken advantage of by the service department?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Possible that it needs to be replaced also, but isn't this under warranty??
  • fanfare783fanfare783 Member Posts: 2
    It is still under warranty, but the computer is fine. i just wondered if this was something due to the design of corollas.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    First I ever heard - there's always the occassional fluke!
  • vuceticvucetic Member Posts: 3
    I was given an estimate of $2,200 to replace all four struts on my '94 corolla (143,000 miles). Is this estimate believable, sounds way too much?
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    What is the value of a 13 year old Corolla with a 143K? I bet that is more than you could get for it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Complete strut assembly should be about $110--$125 apiece, plus I'd figure 1 hour labor per strut, plus an alignment, so in my neck of the woods (California) that would add up, with sales tax to about $1,000--$1150 for good quality parts and good technical workmanship.

    So you'd need to ask them to break down your estimate and see what they are selling you here aside from gold-plated struts. Are they including other front end work?
  • vuceticvucetic Member Posts: 3
    Well, I would not bet on getting much more, but I would not sell it, I am going to keep it as long is it runs. And it runs great, actually, except for the rattling noise from the faulty struts. So I need to do something about them, but need to find a good shop that would not rip me off. Any ideas for Northern Virginia (Fairfax)?
  • vuceticvucetic Member Posts: 3
    Thank, that is about what I was expecting. No additional fron work or anything, but I will ask for details of the estimate.

    I thought that with some reasinably food maintenance I could drive it for at least another 50 K miles, is is reasonable to expect a Toyota Corolla to last to 200,000 miles? It really runs well now (143,000 miles).
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    If you have done all the scheduled maintenance (fluid changes, etc.) by the book, on time, then yes, 200,000 is reasonable.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I agree, 200K is feasible. I really wouldn't want to drive a car much more than that, as you can get into problems with metallurgical failures or instant engine death, etc. 175-225K is the statistical lifespan AT BEST of just about any car. Some go more, but their condition, reliability and safety are debatable to say the least.

    Of course, if you want to spend thousands upon thousands, you can keep any car running for a million miles if you want...the point of which is...I don't know...
  • soynutssoynuts Member Posts: 7
    I recently changed my 03 CE. I put in 4 quarts. I think the capacity is 3.98 quarts... When I purchased my oil, the auto parts clerk was able to tell me the capacity by looking it up in the computer...
  • soynutssoynuts Member Posts: 7
    I have an 03 Corolla CE with an auto transmission. My odo reads 78xxx miles. Is this a little early for a toyota transmission to be going out?

    Here is the background info. I added some gumout fuel injector cleaner to my gasoline, but put in twice the amount needed by accident. Immediately after, when i pressed the gas pedal, the rpms would hit somewhere between 2 and 3k before first gear would catch... Above first gear, there has not been any catching or rough shifting at all. I drove until the tank was empty. After refueling, the car ran a little better. I then disconnected my battery to reset my computer and changed my spark plugs which has helped but did not fix the problem. The first gear is still catching slighty it seems when I am driving at low speeds or starting... I do know that I need a new catalytic converter, but have put off the $400 repair. I am skeptical that it is the transmission because the problem seems to be going away gradually. Next on my list is changing the air filter, and maybe some seafoam... Any ideas, hints or similar experiences??? Any help is appreciated.
  • retvetretvet Member Posts: 1
    I offered to change my girlfriend's oil & oil filter in her 1988 Toyota Corolla. I lifted the hood to check the number on the oil filter. I couldn't find it. I checked her driver's manual and it doesn't even mention an oil filter. I don't know much about maintenance on cars but I've never heard of one without an oil filter. Where do I look? Jim
  • 4agze4agze Member Posts: 1
    is the motor twin cam 16V 4AG if it is its behind the headers
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I remember my '89 being under the exhaust manifold. You could change it from above, not under the car.
  • janebojanebo Member Posts: 1
    Hi Folks, I can't believe I'm asking about a bulb because it sounds so simple---arg, but it's not! The "owner's manual" shows a configuration that doesn't even exist in this car & looking at it closely, I know 2 things: the clips(2,very flimsy)will almost certainly snap right off & the seal between the front lens & where you're "supposed" to separate it from to get at the bulb, will be so badly damaged that it'll be prone to water getting inside if I attempt to pull this apart. It will not go back to the way it was. Not to mention all those nasty little pry marks!

    I have looked but couldn't find any info, but has anyone experienced this & knows how to not wreck your front lens just for a bulb that you really need? I appreciate it very much--TY! :confuse
  • hightonhighton Member Posts: 1
    hi im james the oil filter is behind the exaust manifold heat guard and u can only get to it from underneath the car
    dont take the heat guard off to get to it i no thers only 7 bolts holding it in but they will be week due to the heat and if u snap one it will start ratteling
  • vw6366vw6366 Member Posts: 1
    Yes I have replaced the ignition cylinder on my 1990 corolla. But one thing there is a little thing that came out with the old one and I cant get it back in it holds the steering wheel lock and it turns the car on. I need to know how to get this thing back in and what the hell its called. I have talked to a toyota machanic and they have on idea what it is and told me to bring it in but I cant because the steering wheel locks. Need help email me if you can vw6366@hotmail.com
  • captainbunch88captainbunch88 Member Posts: 4
    The check engine light on my 2000 Corolla turned on a few weeks ago. I brought it to Auto Zone, and they ran the check engine light test, but they got no reading at all. They told me something was wrong with either the plug or electrical system. Any ideas?
  • ipourghazipourghaz Member Posts: 1
    hi all,
    in my corolla 05 when i, lets say in the highway and it happens everywhere, change the gear from 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 and press gas pedal, the RPM just goes up like to 2800 or 2900 and then jumps back down to 2000 or 2200 or wherever it was supposed to be. and then starts inclining as it is supposed to. What do you think the cause is? is it the transmission fluid that i have to change according to the maintanace plan or it might be the clutch?
    Thanks
  • sammee1sammee1 Member Posts: 8
    im having the same problem with my 2002 corolla. heidi7, did you ever find out what was wrong? ronrumbaugh@mchsi.com
  • sammee1sammee1 Member Posts: 8
    any luck fixing this im having same problem. its not the fob or contacts in the front doors. im leaning toward the door control module under the driver seat. has heidi7 fixed her car? ;)
  • jean18jean18 Member Posts: 1
    not to worries, it will get better after a long drive, say 10 miles to burn off the excess chemical you have put into the petrol. I also experience the same problem after using carburttor cleaner to clean the throttle valve. The RPM shoot up to 2k but after driving for awhile it is back to normal.
  • johnniedjohnnied Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2k toyota corolla /125k mi.. it is using 3 qts or more of oil every fillup. very slight smoking at tailpipe but tailpipe is charcoal black. any ideas of what i might be looking at? is this evidence of the oil sludge issue i often hear about? thanks,jd
  • joeyjoejoejoeyjoejoe Member Posts: 68
    I had the check engine light come on in my 2000 Corolla last year about this time also. I took to Advance Auto and they couldn't even get the machine to work. I then took to Autozone and they eventually got it connected. It returned a code of like P0171 - Bank 1 Lean. This meant that one my O2 sensors was bad and my engine wasn't getting enough oxygen...or so they told me. This would apparently lead to severe problems if not fixed ASAP.

    After explaining that it would take umteen-hundreds of dollars to buy or replace myself, I decided to check the Internet for a resolution. After a few minutes searching I found that there is a common problem with the MAF Sensor in many Toyota's. I say problem, but it really just has a knack for getting dirty. All I did was take it out, clean with a Q-tip and facial astringent (isopropyl alcohol would work also), and set it back in place. After a day or so, the light went off and I've been good ever since.

    I lost the page that gave me pictures and descriptions on where to find it. I'll have to look after work for a better description, but I know it is located inside the hose that runs from the air filter. You have to unscrew 1 or 2 screws and pull it from the side of the hose, then disconnect the wiring, before taking in the house/garage for closer cleaning and inspection. Be very careful when cleaning with the Q-tip. There is a small circuit tucked down in the plastic unit that can break. Give it a good wipe down and allow to dry thoroughly before putting back in.

    You should obviously not drive your car while this is still out. Check on-line for "cleaning MAF sensor" and there is a ton of info that pops up. I'll see if I can still find the site. Saved me a ton of money and wasn't even what Autozone said was the problem. As a side note, you could also try one of those fuel system cleaners by Gumout or STP and see if that clears out any gunk elsewhere. Let me know if you have any other questions. Maybe another Autozone will have no problems hooking up their machine also? Hope this helps. Cheers!
  • carinfo4mecarinfo4me Member Posts: 3
    what did you find out about your oil usage problem? I'm having the same problem with my 2000 corolla CE with 130,000 miles. It uses a quart a week. Mechanic said it was the PCV filter- changed it and nothing changed. could it be oil sludge(what's that?) that you spoke of? thanks- Pat
  • johnniedjohnnied Member Posts: 2
    dear pat-i dont exactly know what oil sludge is or how the problem manifests itself-there is a lot of postings about it and while it seems to be caused by infrequent oil changes, it is more complicated than that alone-i did get a reply that said to clean the maf sensor? just google that and see what it suggests. my replier said that you could do it yourself if you were careful-jd
  • fiafia6fiafia6 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 corolla. The vehicle works fine while the heater is off; but as soon as the heater comes on, the engine starts to stall out. I was wondering if anyone knows what could be the problem. Would appreciate it!
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