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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm gonna take a wild guess on this one and say large vacuum leak under the dash.
  • rlm55rlm55 Member Posts: 1
    Have you thought about Brake Dust? You might have your brakes serviced to get rid of dust. If you have wheel covers that are opened it can cause it.
  • kumar08kumar08 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I bought new Michellen wiper blades (24''&18'').I really couldn't find a way to fix them onto my present car.Could anyone please suggest me.Thanks,
  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    They seem too large! There should have been a guide there to show you which ones to get. I use the RainX brand on my '98, which use 18" and 20". They're pricey but good. I know that doesn't address your Michelin issue, but I figured as long as you're taking them back... :)
  • craigseafordcraigseaford Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to disable daytime running light?
  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    I don't know, but maybe the people who frequent the electrical section could help?
  • tipstips Member Posts: 1
    as someone else stated: go by the maual and be sure its with or without the filter. i just got an '06 from a toyota dealership and i just changed the oil. i changed both the filter and the oil- it took 4 qts (3.9). i dont have a manual
  • merelymeremerelymere Member Posts: 4
    I have an '07 Corolla with the black interior and have noticed that the area on the passenger's side near the glovebox has several scratches. I don't know what caused them-- I am single so I rarely have anyone in the passenger seat. Anyone else have this problem? Any way to "fix" them that you know of? :confuse:
  • dkeaniedkeanie Member Posts: 16
    what oil is needed for a 1.6 manual petrol engine? i've no idea what type of oil is in the engine, :confuse: can I add oil to top up or do I need to do an oil change?
  • mikie3mikie3 Member Posts: 2
    Help: Have 160,000 on my 98 my well maintained Corolla CE. Check Engine light remained on but not "flashing" which means "DANGER" I have heard. Two separate tests by two different repair shops indicate either the KNOCK SENSOR may need replacing ($197.00 plus $200.00 labor cost), or faulty wiring is the culprit. Either way it will be a $400 or $500 fix! Then, both shops indicated that no damage is being done to the engine with this condition existing, but, in WA. state this condition will void passing Emission Requirement and I won't be able to get the car certified to drive. What to do, What to do? Can I just clean the existing Knock Sensor? Also, one mechanic indicated that I probably getting 'pretty bad' gas milage because the Knock Sensor is constantly monitering how efficiently the engine is using gas! Anyone, please help me figure this out!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    "MIKE" from Seattle Washington. Thanks ahead of time for your response!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    My book says $165 for the part and 2.1 hours of labor.

    The knock sensor is fitted to the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it.

    1. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY
    2. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD
    3. REMOVE KNOCK SENSOR

    (a) Disconnect the knock sensor connector.



    (b) Using SST, remove the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010



    4. INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminal and body. If there is continuity, replace the sensor.
    5. REINSTALL KNOCK SENSOR

    (a) Using SST, install the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010
    (b) Connect the knock sensor connector.

    6. REINSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD
    7. REINSTALL THROTTLE BODY

    Source: ALLDATA
  • mikie3mikie3 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 1998 Corolla with 189,000 miles. I know this year has a 'timing chain' rather than a 'timing belt'. My concern and questions is: Should I pay my local Toyota Dealer $630.00 (parts and labor) to replace the Water Pump before it self destructs, or, should I just wait until it begins to leak or completely falls apart? I have no idea how long Water Pumps are supposed to last in this car and if I don't replace it now will it destroy the engine when it does go out. Please help me determine what to do!! Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help me.
    Mike from Seattle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Water pumps generally don't self-destruct...they die a slow death. Warning signs would be, of course, a slight drip of coolant from the bottom of the pump, or a loud grinding noise, or signs of overheating, and before any of those symptoms, a looseness that you can feel in the water pump pulley if you rock it perpendicular to the rotation of the belt that drives it.

    Also that's too much $$$ to replace the pump. Should be about 3.5 hrs (with AC) and $65 for the part, + coolant. I'd guess that an independent repair shop could do this work for around $450 or so.

    Why don't you have an indie shop look over the pump carefully as well as your belts and hoses? If the pump shows outward signs of fatigue and your belts and hoses are wearing out, maybe it's a good time to do them all then.
  • perdrix1perdrix1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Toyota Corolla 2004 with manual transmission and need to know where the drain and filing plugs are in order to change my transmission oil change. I see some plugs but I am unsure if they are the ones. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Just one plug---a filler plug, which looks to be right behind where the clutch operates, so toward the bell housing, on the clutch lever side.

    1. INSPECT TRANSAXLE OIL

    1. Stop the vehicle on the level place.
    2. Remove the transmission filler plug and gasket.
    3. Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.20 inch) from the lowest position of the inner surface of the transmission filler plug opening. NOTICE:

    o Excessively large or small amount of oil may cause troubles.
    o After replacing oil, drive the vehicle and check the oil level.

    4. Check for oil leakage when the oil level is low.
    5. Install the transmission filler plug and new gasket. Torque: 39.2 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
  • jerrynelsejerrynelse Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Chevy Prizm which I believe is identical mechanically to the Toyota Corolla. It has 53,000 miles. Recently the clutch started catching very close to the floor and occasionally not disengaging at all with peddle all the way in. Clutch does not slip. If I pump the peddle it recovers somewhat. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid is full but dirty. I saw no obvious leaks of hydralic fluid on a quick examination. Are there clutch adjustments and if so where are they and how do I proceed? Slave cylinder? I will be thankful for any advice or suggestions.
    Jerry
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Certainly you should have the hydraulic system flushed out for starters. Gunk in there can impede hydraulic progress.

    You can look but I don't think there is adjustment or it might be very minimal. The book doesn't mention it.

    If flushing doesn't improve your clutch action you might try a new clutch slave cylinder. Even if you have to replace the clutch and this slave cylinder was the wrong diagnosis, you'll need to put in a new clutch slave with a clutch job anyway.
  • hovertankhovertank Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    Am in the process of trying to remove my starter from my 1998 Corolla. I have the Haynes Manual. I've got the bottom two bolts loose and ready to go. But I'm unclear on the top bolt. In the attached I've circled in red what the manual says to loosen and remove.

    Is this the right one? There's also a nut on the bolt. And the bolt head is not the standard 6-sided head. Am I supposed to remove the bolt or just the nut?

    Here is the picture: [img]http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk299/pogamoggan/corollabolttop.jpg[/img- ]

    Also, any tips on removal of the wiring harness. I removed one when I took off the bottom bolt but there is another that seems to be a bit harder to remove.

    Thanks.

    CC
  • nic73nic73 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 check engine light is on with a PO420 code. Repaced both O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Still the check engine light is on. Please help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    What coolant can I use to fill up a 2006 Corolla. Is it a specific type? Dexcool? Mixes with all types and colors by Prestone?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • seandicksseandicks Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I have had a similar problem with a Ford Escort I had. After so long the Valve seats dropped out from beneath the cylanders and the whole head was ruined. So Be carefull for that. If you start to get a ticking sound when starting your car, then thats it.
    Also, similar problem with my corolla. However in this case, it was nothing much more than the Oxagen Sensor. Simple to replace and couldn't hurt if you car is old as mine(1994)
  • seandicksseandicks Member Posts: 4
    Go out and buy a cold air intake. Only 5 Mins to put on and you get colder air and better fuel economy
  • bergmwbergmw Member Posts: 2
    Hey!

    Did you discover the issue? I am having the same problem with friends car. Let me know if you figured it out!

    Thanks
  • seandicksseandicks Member Posts: 4
    If I read this correctly, then you're saying that when your heater is on it stalls the car?
    If this is the case then I would say check your altinator. Are your lights dimmer than usual?
  • bergmwbergmw Member Posts: 2
    I have found posts where electrical items stalled the car, this does not appear to be the case. The lights work at night without stalling the engine and without draining the battery. I was leaning towards the vaccum leak theory, the engine light just came on. Unscrupulous car seller reset the codes before selling, nice eh!
  • seandicksseandicks Member Posts: 4
    I'm not to familiar on vaccums. However, if I was in your situation before guessing at anythnig, I would pay the $40 and get the computer read at either canadian tire or toyota. You'll know exactly what is wrong then and an approximate price to fix it. Check your ground wires to...Poor grounding can cause stalling as well.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Anyone know if the 2001 Corolla has the changeable cabin heater filter behind the glove box? I know the newer models do. After nine years I'm starting to get a stinky smell when the heater is turned on.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    No, the Corolla did not get a filter until the 2003 model.
  • jesush91jesush91 Member Posts: 3
    People say idling my car for the 6-7 min. i do on my 1990 corolla not only wastes gas but pollutes the evironment too and doesnt help my car...well if thats so then why does my car shift from first gear to second gear with a little jump if i dont let it warm up, HUH?! see id like the readers of this to try it and see it on any corolla...kuz wen i warm up my corolla it doesnt jump when it shifts, but rather shifts smoother and quieter and let me tell you readers too that i service my corolla's transmission, engine and cooling system and anything a bit before im supposed to as a way to pamper my baby corolla...so id like to show you people that warming up your corolla is good for your car cause at least its had its oil and parts warmed up and ready to go if you let your car warm up....cause lemme tell you that it bugs the heck outta me when i see people just turn on the car and go heh i say to myself "poor car..." so id like to know what you other people say about this...
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    First off I would say if your Corolla transmission is "jumping" when cold I would say you have some kind of problem. Secondly, it's not necessary or does any good at all to idle your car for more than a minute when it is cold. Once the cold oil circulates in your motor your car is fine to drive. It would of course make it more comfortable as the heat would warm up before you are ready to drive but other than that there is no benefit to your car. Thirdly, it is definetly not only wasteful on gas at more than $2.50 per gallon but it obviously does pollute our environment more when doing this.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    When you are idling your car, you are getting 0 MPG.

    Read your owner's manual. You will see that Toyota recommends against extended idling to warm up the car. Start the car and drive away as soon as the windows are clear of frost.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your car is old and no doubt the internal transmission seals are not as flexible as they once were.. Maybe warming up the car helps for a few early shifts, but it's an expensive way to address what is pretty much a normal symptom for an 18 year old car. You may find that a transmission service would help. Besides your car will warm up a lot faster when driven after 30 seconds to 1 minute of warm up. I'd guess that the warm ups are costing you .25 a day.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    It wasn't my car Nedzel, but I basically recommended the same thing to jesush91.
  • dkeaniedkeanie Member Posts: 16
    Can anyone tell me how to get the side light out, in the Haynes manual it says it slides out, mine won't budge! I need to replace the bulb.
    thanks.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I guess you'll have to tell us what year Corolla you have and what side light you are referring to. Is it the side marker light?
  • dkeaniedkeanie Member Posts: 16
    sorry it is on a 95 Corolla and is on the front lefthand side. I got as far as removing the screw which holds it into place and managed to pull part of it out but from there it would not budge, I was not sure how much force to apply in order for it to come out without breaking anything else as i broke of one of the clips that hold it into place and managed to smash the light at the side nearest the headlight trying to get it out.
    thanks
  • OhioRangerOhioRanger Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking at a 99 corolla w/75k miles on it. The carfax shows it as one owner with Toyota dealership maintenance. The same dealership sold, serviced and is selling it. What are the things that I should look out for or ask about? I'm a truck person, but my 12yo get-around truck is official on its last set of tires because the body is falling apart :cry: Since I also have a younger beastie truck, I'm going for a better MPG get-around, so looking at the Corolla. I could use help with:

    (a) Questions to ask or things to check out.
    (b) I'm hoping to get at least 100k or a decade out of this car.
    (c) All my mechanic contacts are for trucks, where do you find good Toyota people (cheaper than the dealership) and/or what other types of cars are the same (like can a Honda guy do Toyotas?).

    I'm in eastern Ohio near Youngstown and the car has lived in Ohio all its life, if that's a factor.

    Thanks
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Sounds like a well kept good car. What's the asking price? Good Luck!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Since it's nearly 10 years old and has been in the rust belt all its life, be sure to do a thorough check for rust, and for signs that rust has been touched up, e.g. at the bottoms of doors and in wheel wells. Since one dealer serviced it, they should be able to show you the service records to make sure all recommended service was done.

    Realize that in order to get a decade out of the car, it would need to last 20 years. I don't recall seeing a 20 year old Corolla (or other small Japanese cars) on the roads around the Twin Cities, where I live. The engine will probably last 175k with proper maintenance, but the body...?
  • jerrynelsejerrynelse Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Prizm with a standard transmission which I believe is mechanically identical to the Toyota Corrola. It has approximately 60,000 miles. I have noticed a growling of tapping noise lately when the car is running in gear. It almost sound like valves tapping but the noise is not present when coasting in neutral, idling or reving the engine. The noise seems to be coming from the front of the car. I plan on jacking the front wheels of the ground and running the car in gear to listen where the noise is coming from but winter in PA is not a good time to do this. Does anyone have a similar problem or ideas?
    Thanks
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Cold air intake and better fuel economy? Are you serious? I thought the more oxygen you let in the combustion chamber the more fuel it will suck and that means more fuel consumption. Am I wrong?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    'I purchased a 1998 Corolla with 189,000 miles. I know this year has a 'timing chain' rather than a 'timing belt'. My concern and questions is: Should I pay my local Toyota Dealer $630.00 (parts and labor) to replace the Water Pump before it self destructs, or, should I just wait until it begins to leak or completely falls apart? I have no idea how long Water Pumps are supposed to last in this car and if I don't replace it now will it destroy the engine when it does go out. Please help me determine what to do!! Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help me.
    Mike from Seattle.'

    Maybe it is too late of an answer but I want to reply. Why do you think the water pump is going to die? I presume you had never owned a Toyota before. Am I right?
    It is not your usual Detroit crap.It will last a million miles if regular maintenance is done to the car (oil/filter changes,transmission fluid drain/refill,coolant drain and refill etc etc).
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >It is not your usual Detroit crap

    I noticed the comment about US brands. :sick:

    It should be possible to talk about Corollas without trying to denigrate US brands. As for water pumps, my GM's since 1981 have never needed one. Last three were 150K miles (wife made me trade it), 169K miles on a 1998 currently own at 11 years, and a 2003 at 83K. I have spent little at the dealer for repairs on these cars. I believe one needed an alternator at 80K. :)

    I noticed the post because of the $630 price at the dealer -- WOW :cry: -- and because it's a 1998 like my second car. Good luck with your Toyotas; may all your repairs be little ones. :D

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • raybbraybb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Corolla and one of my break-lights stopped working. I would like to know how to change it step by step.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Get a repair book, Chilton's or Haynes.It is 15 dollar or so at ebay.You will need it.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Usually the owner's manual covers procedures for changing light bulbs such as brake lights. Doesn't the Corolla manual have that?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    'It should be possible to talk about Corollas without trying to denigrate US brands.'

    It is not denigrating.It is stating a fact.Why do you think ALL 3 of them have failed? They failed miserably.They are being kept alive artificially through taxpayer bailouts.
    They have not made a single reliable fuel efficient car ever.In their entire histories.
    And now they shamelessly are demanding more taxpayer money as a reward for their failures.

    You might be one of the few luck D3 (I call them C3) owners around. People who have never owned a Toyota (for example) think that it is normal to pay for transmission rebuilding, engine rebuilding jobs in the lives of their cars. It is certainly NOT.They think it is normal to pay for repairs. It is not. The only things that might fail in cars should be brakes, tires, lightbulbs etc. Not the transmission or the engine.

    I want them to succeed but they obviously do not want to have a successful business.They want to get bailed out frequently. They want to keep building gas guzzlers. They want to keep building inferior quality vehicles. They should be ashamed.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Backy,

    Have you had any electrical problems with Jetta? I heard VW Passats and Jettas are known for elusive electrical issues. Is that true or not?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    No, no problems for me, but I don't see how my Jetta is on-topic here.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    If you are offended, I am sorry.It is on your profile.
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