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Comments
"MIKE" from Seattle Washington. Thanks ahead of time for your response!!
The knock sensor is fitted to the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it.
1. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY
2. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD
3. REMOVE KNOCK SENSOR
(a) Disconnect the knock sensor connector.
(b) Using SST, remove the knock sensor.
SST 09816-30010
4. INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminal and body. If there is continuity, replace the sensor.
5. REINSTALL KNOCK SENSOR
(a) Using SST, install the knock sensor.
SST 09816-30010
(b) Connect the knock sensor connector.
6. REINSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD
7. REINSTALL THROTTLE BODY
Source: ALLDATA
Mike from Seattle.
Also that's too much $$$ to replace the pump. Should be about 3.5 hrs (with AC) and $65 for the part, + coolant. I'd guess that an independent repair shop could do this work for around $450 or so.
Why don't you have an indie shop look over the pump carefully as well as your belts and hoses? If the pump shows outward signs of fatigue and your belts and hoses are wearing out, maybe it's a good time to do them all then.
1. INSPECT TRANSAXLE OIL
1. Stop the vehicle on the level place.
2. Remove the transmission filler plug and gasket.
3. Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.20 inch) from the lowest position of the inner surface of the transmission filler plug opening. NOTICE:
o Excessively large or small amount of oil may cause troubles.
o After replacing oil, drive the vehicle and check the oil level.
4. Check for oil leakage when the oil level is low.
5. Install the transmission filler plug and new gasket. Torque: 39.2 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
Jerry
You can look but I don't think there is adjustment or it might be very minimal. The book doesn't mention it.
If flushing doesn't improve your clutch action you might try a new clutch slave cylinder. Even if you have to replace the clutch and this slave cylinder was the wrong diagnosis, you'll need to put in a new clutch slave with a clutch job anyway.
Am in the process of trying to remove my starter from my 1998 Corolla. I have the Haynes Manual. I've got the bottom two bolts loose and ready to go. But I'm unclear on the top bolt. In the attached I've circled in red what the manual says to loosen and remove.
Is this the right one? There's also a nut on the bolt. And the bolt head is not the standard 6-sided head. Am I supposed to remove the bolt or just the nut?
Here is the picture: [img]http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk299/pogamoggan/corollabolttop.jpg[/img- ]
Also, any tips on removal of the wiring harness. I removed one when I took off the bottom bolt but there is another that seems to be a bit harder to remove.
Thanks.
CC
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also, similar problem with my corolla. However in this case, it was nothing much more than the Oxagen Sensor. Simple to replace and couldn't hurt if you car is old as mine(1994)
Did you discover the issue? I am having the same problem with friends car. Let me know if you figured it out!
Thanks
If this is the case then I would say check your altinator. Are your lights dimmer than usual?
Read your owner's manual. You will see that Toyota recommends against extended idling to warm up the car. Start the car and drive away as soon as the windows are clear of frost.
thanks.
thanks
(a) Questions to ask or things to check out.
(b) I'm hoping to get at least 100k or a decade out of this car.
(c) All my mechanic contacts are for trucks, where do you find good Toyota people (cheaper than the dealership) and/or what other types of cars are the same (like can a Honda guy do Toyotas?).
I'm in eastern Ohio near Youngstown and the car has lived in Ohio all its life, if that's a factor.
Thanks
Realize that in order to get a decade out of the car, it would need to last 20 years. I don't recall seeing a 20 year old Corolla (or other small Japanese cars) on the roads around the Twin Cities, where I live. The engine will probably last 175k with proper maintenance, but the body...?
Thanks
Mike from Seattle.'
Maybe it is too late of an answer but I want to reply. Why do you think the water pump is going to die? I presume you had never owned a Toyota before. Am I right?
It is not your usual Detroit crap.It will last a million miles if regular maintenance is done to the car (oil/filter changes,transmission fluid drain/refill,coolant drain and refill etc etc).
I noticed the comment about US brands. :sick:
It should be possible to talk about Corollas without trying to denigrate US brands. As for water pumps, my GM's since 1981 have never needed one. Last three were 150K miles (wife made me trade it), 169K miles on a 1998 currently own at 11 years, and a 2003 at 83K. I have spent little at the dealer for repairs on these cars. I believe one needed an alternator at 80K.
I noticed the post because of the $630 price at the dealer -- WOW -- and because it's a 1998 like my second car. Good luck with your Toyotas; may all your repairs be little ones.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It is not denigrating.It is stating a fact.Why do you think ALL 3 of them have failed? They failed miserably.They are being kept alive artificially through taxpayer bailouts.
They have not made a single reliable fuel efficient car ever.In their entire histories.
And now they shamelessly are demanding more taxpayer money as a reward for their failures.
You might be one of the few luck D3 (I call them C3) owners around. People who have never owned a Toyota (for example) think that it is normal to pay for transmission rebuilding, engine rebuilding jobs in the lives of their cars. It is certainly NOT.They think it is normal to pay for repairs. It is not. The only things that might fail in cars should be brakes, tires, lightbulbs etc. Not the transmission or the engine.
I want them to succeed but they obviously do not want to have a successful business.They want to get bailed out frequently. They want to keep building gas guzzlers. They want to keep building inferior quality vehicles. They should be ashamed.
Have you had any electrical problems with Jetta? I heard VW Passats and Jettas are known for elusive electrical issues. Is that true or not?