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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Would just like to keep things on topic here. If you want to talk about the cars I own or have owned, it should be about the 2 Corollas I've owned and their maintenance.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I really don't think you should require purchasing a Chilton's repair manual for $15.00 to change a light bulb. Like someone mentioned it should be in your new car manual. But really, I'm assuming it's just like previous Corollas and other cars. You just pop the trunk open, look for the connector in the back with the wiring attached depending on which side your bulb is burned out. Twist this plastic connector to the left and pull out. The burned out bulb will be attached. Replace bulb from any auto store and replace the same way.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That info should be in your owner's manual.
  • debjeffdebjeff Member Posts: 9
    Sometimes when I press on my 2007 corolla brake pedal, I hear squeaky sounds (like an old bed spring), not squealing sounds like when pads need changing. A rep at the dealership says there is nothing that can be done about the squeaky sound, that it will be there forever. He says the brakes have been inspected and they look fine. Is this accurate info?
  • joel29mjoel29m Member Posts: 2
    my brother-in-law had one. at first he had me thinking that car was reliable, but thought wrong. the check engine light came on and he spent 400 dollars to get it fixed and a month later it was on again (electrical problem). what happened after that? dropped it off at the dealership and did not look back!
  • geeta3geeta3 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a brans spanking new 2008 Toyota Corolla CE and only a few weeks into the purchase have had mice getting into the passenger cabin. Has anyone had this problem before or do I have a problem car?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well, you definitely have a problem but it certainly isn't the car. Doesn't seem to be a hard problem to solve though. Set a couple of glue traps when parking for the evening and you should catch the culprets by morning.
  • sefsef Member Posts: 3
    I changed the front bulbs for my 2006 but I don't think a guy could get his hand into that little opening for the left front one which sits right in front of the battery. My son couldn't get his in there.

    Have not had to do the brake lights yet. It was all in the manual that came with the car.

    Good Luck. The bulb units were $10.50 each at Autozone.
  • sefsef Member Posts: 3
    They changed my t. fluid at 30,000. It was dirty. I made them show it to me and it really was.

    The service guys push changing those fluids everytime I go in for service. I make them look at the fluids with me on a clean white paper towel which I take with me and tell them if it looks good to me and I check the fluids in between times. I am at 77,000 and have only changed the t. Don't forget they are all on commission and probably have to bill a certain amount per hour if I understand it correctly. They replaced the front brakes this time - my idea and I asked for the old brake pad so that I can monitor the wear.

    When they replaced the brakes, the guy called me while the car was down and told me the O ring on the timing chain (?) had an oil leak and also that my brake fluid needed to be changed AFTER we had looked at it. I told them it could all wait.
  • sefsef Member Posts: 3
    Good Grief! I think they are padding that payroll!! My 2006 has 77,000 on it and I just now replaced the front brake pads and replaced transmission fluid at 30,000 because I made them show it to me and it really was dirty. They will try to do everything you let them because they are on commission and have to bill an hourly amount. I emailed Toyota about my questions and even though they refer you back to your maintenance rep, they are more careful about it.

    Make them show you what they want to do. Make them show you what those fluids look like on a clean white paper towel. They sound terrible to me if they didn't even rotate your tires. I mark one tire so that I know they have been rotated everytime. Everytime they tell me something, I get that manual out and show them it's not on the list for that mileage and make them explain it to me. Also, I have a son who knows a lot about car. I am so sorry.

    They don't like it but I don't care.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I would definitely watch the technicians you have servicing your car. They sound like they're out to make money on you. How does Transmission fluid get dirty at 30,000 miles. It might get burnt if you are having transmission problems but not dirty. It might be a good thing to get it changed for viscosity purposes, but not dirt. Even so, 30,000 miles seems way too soon for that. Did you understand what he meant when he told you "the "O" ring on the timing chain had an oil leak"? I certainly didn't know timing chains had oil leaks, or "O' rings for that matter. How was he able to make this fantastic diagnosis by just replacing your brakes? Why did you have your brakes replaced in the first place? Were they worn or was it just an intuition you had? Rotors should never have had to be replaced at just 30,000 miles. Did you know they can be resurfaced for just a fraction of the cost to replace them. Also, brake fluid should never have to be changed unless it got corrupted with water, you would feel this in the firmness of the brake pedal. It's pretty sad when you have to mark your tires because you can't trust your Service Tech. to rotate the tires when you ask him to do so. Did you think of trying to find a more trustworthy Technician ? Your wasting your money!
  • speedymilospeedymilo Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2008 Toyota Corolla LE in November. Its at about 36000 miles. For the last few months there is a metal scraping noise apparently from the brakes the first time I press on them with every "trip." After braking once, I never get the sound again--until the next time I start the car and head out. It happens when I reverse, and when I go forward. I thought it might have something to do with using my parking brake (when I'm parking of course), but it happens whether I have used it or not. Any ideas?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Normal on all cars I've ever had - it is just moisture on the brake rotors that causes corrosion, and the first time you use the brakes it gets scrapped off - no harm done. My '99's front brakes lasted 85k miles, and the rears are still original (105k+ miles). So, obviously, this scraping noise is not at all bad, perfectly normal.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    McDawg is exactly right. This is perfectly normal as it is corrosion which appears mostly after driving in wet rainy weather and dries until the next time you use your brakes. It is then removed from the rotors with the brake pads.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Having the same issue on our '05 Mazda 3s...no big deal...gone after using the brakes once. Funny though, our other 3 cars don't do this at all :confuse: .

    The Sandman :)
  • percussionistpercussionist Member Posts: 204
    Hi all,

    I have a 1996 Corolla DX (1.8 L) which has 201K miles with the following issues:

    1. For the past several years, when it gets really cold out (below 20F) you turn the key and the dash lights come on, but nothing else happens (no crank or start). However, if you hold the key in the start position long enough, it will start (unless it's below zero, in which case I take a different car to work).

    2. New problem (started five days ago) - when you start the car, there is a strong air sound coming from the engine compartment. I have theorized that it may be a belt rubbing against something (no squeak) or something with the air intake or vacuum line. The noise stops after about 30 seconds. This happens upon start up even when the car is warm.

    3. Every once in a while, the check engine light goes on (no, it's not the gas cap) and will turn off after 2-3 days, or 2-3 weeks. I have replaced both O2 sensors.

    I would like to sell the car, and a friend has expressed interest. I would not sell to him with these issues, though. Please help me out!

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • geeta3geeta3 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your reassuring message. That is the MOST STUPID LECTURE I HAVE EVER HEARD. It seems to be pretty close to what I have heard from most of the people at the Toyota dealership. You seem to be closely related to the them - your "Knee-Jerk" type of response exhibits that trait.

    I have tried every trick (and believe me I mean every thing) in the book to stop the mice entering into the cabin without success (glue traps, etc., etc... - even covering holes with mesh per the dealer mechanic's suggestions - at a cost they could do that for me - I wonder why I ever bought a new car - to provide free transportation for mice?????). They have eaten into two air filters. I have never had mice or such get into any of my other cars. These were parked in the same spot as this new Toyota. Right now there are two other cars parked right next to this one and have never seen this problem. I am sick and tired of the dealer and others telling me that I don't understand the problem. Let me tell you - it not the mice that are the problem. It is the dumb design of Toyota that allows the mice to find their way in. If that is not the case, then I have been sold a lemon of a car. The dealer who is supposed to help me with this only wants to make more money out of the situation that Toyota has put me into. Do you consider this as a feature and I should be so happy for. These dealers were so happy to sell me this car - and once bought they don't want to know about the problems. I will join the line of people who will not touch another Toyota even with a barge pole.

    Let me tell you something else. The people who bother to write about problems with their cars do so after exhausting most normal channels. I have been struggling with this problem for over one and a half years. I take offense at comments that outright tell me that there is nothing wrong with the car. If you really believe that there is nothing wrong with the car, than why don't you buy this junk off me for a mere $15,000. I'd be more than happy to give you this simple problem to fix. You have no idea how I lost my excitement of purchasing a new car transformed into disgust within the first two weeks and subsequently into utter stress because I can never drive this contraption with peace of mind.

    Let me know if you are interested in purchasing this car from me. You'd be most helpful. I say shame on Toyota!!!!!!

    Apologize for the long reply and no personal anger intended, but that's how cheesed-off I feel with such ill-considered responses.

    Geeta3
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Sorry to hear about such a weird situation but after doing some research its not all that un common. The one thing i did find was they will go into any make of car from a Geo to a Lexus depending on many of different sitiuations. Good luck hope you find a answer.

    http://www.wombatnation.com/2005/01/mice-ate-my-car

    The baby powder near the bottom of the artical i thought was a good idea

    MNF
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    It wasn't a stupid lecture ! I was trying to legitimately resolve your problem. In fact didn't you say that you even tried my suggested glue traps on your own before you even heard from me?
  • imjustagirlimjustagirl Member Posts: 4
    Two days ago my cruise control stopped on its own, I reset it and its been fine since. Tonight my car engine stalled and I pulled off the road and restarted the car, the malfunction light was on. When i put it in drive it felt like the transmission had jumped. I could drive at a normal speed but the light was still on. I pulled off the road again and unscrewed the gas cap and reapplied it. The malfunction light turned off and I was able to drive normally. Has anyone else had similar problems and is this a one off or should I expect it to happen again?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Get your error codes read from the car computer, then look them up on the internet.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Sounds like it's much more than just a gas cap issue. Follow #485 suggestions.
  • imjustagirlimjustagirl Member Posts: 4
    thanks, i brought the car to the garage today, I need to be more on the ball with following maintenance schedules, the oil was cruddy and the air filter blocked. he mechanic said that should fix the problem
  • snowgophersnowgopher Member Posts: 3
    Hi I read your note on the forum and just thought I'd ask how you made out since it was wrote. Our letter would go much the same way with our 09 Corrola! I tried the dealer, I tried Toyota Canada and they said it was my baby as it isn'nt a defect! Itold them I thought it was a design defect. Our problem is from the cabin air intake. Our service manager was quoted me 400.00 plus change to fix this nothing wrong problem. It burns me on a new vehichle that we even bought xtended warrenty,and they say we are sorry but it isn,t a problem! Toyota Canadano is 1 888 869 6828 Goodluck! Snow Gopher
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Okay, so let me get this right, mice in your vehicle and you think either Toyota or your dealer is responsible for this? Hmmm! Maybe they just threw a $400.00 number out there just so you would go away? Don't get me wrong, I do understand that rodents and /or squirrels in a vehicle can wreck havoc, but how in the world could it possibly be someone else's fault? Don't you think an exterminator in or around your parking area can go along way in solving your problem? "09"'s have cabin air filters, how are they getting past the filter?
  • imjustagirlimjustagirl Member Posts: 4
    Bahhh, it ended up being the electrical panel, I was 4,000 km's over my warranty, so the dealer said no go on covering it, brought it to the garage that my office uses and he did the work for 1300.00. Ticks me off beyond belief that Toyota knows its a defect and does crap to cover it. I'm very disappointed in them and will never buy a Toyota again.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    So was there a $1300.00 problem that allowed mice into your Corolla throu the electrical panel or did the mice chew the wires on the electrical panel to cause $1300.00 in damage?
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    Toyota knows its a defect and does crap to cover it.

    A MOUSE DEFECT ? :confuse:

    Not sure how many Toyota vehicles made and sold over the years, but yours is the only one with a mouse problem and you claim Toyota is covering up some sort of defect. :sick:

    Wow what an ego :shades:
  • imjustagirlimjustagirl Member Posts: 4
    hold on, I didn't have a mouse problem, I replied to the question asking what happened after my car stalled a few times. No ego here, just an empty wallet. :mad:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Terceltom and kenym, let's back up and take a breath here. First of all, imjustagirl said nothing at all about mice. Her problems are described here: imjustagirl, "Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions" #485, 4 Jul 2009 8:34 pm.

    Secondly, if people are having problems with mice getting into their cars and want to ask for help with that, they are welcome to do so.

    Let's not jump on other posters, please. Skip the post if you can't be helpful. Thank you.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    One thing that I would suggest: Call Toyota.

    About 4 years ago, I had a seat belt release button that would stick sometimes. It needed to be replaced, but I was past the warranty by about 3 or 4 months. I called Toyota (the 800 number in your owner's manual, not the dealer) and explained the situation very nicely, how I was just a little past the warranty, how much I like Toyota (I was not lying), etc. and how I was a little disappointed that this problem occurred. Guess what? They covered the repair free of charge. They called the dealer and told them to do the repair and gave them the authority to bill it back to Toyota Corporate. I was very happy with this! I heard that Toyota is generally pretty good about this kind of thing, and my experience proved it.

    It is probably a long shot now, but it's worth a try. At the minimum, I hope that someone reads this and can benefit from it in the future. My dealer told me I would have to pay for it, so it is a good thing I heard about calling Toyota and did it!

    Good Luck!
  • snowgophersnowgopher Member Posts: 3
    I said it was a desighn problem ! I talked to a service managein a neighbouring city and he said that they install a wire screen over the air intake so the mice do not enter the intake. After they get into the intake they chew a hole in the exhaust vent above the filter, from there the vehicle is their palace. A $5.00 fix at the factory Because the engineers looked past it. That is were I say it is a desighn flaw!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I am glad to hear that you now know a solution to the problem. Have you had the screen installed?
  • snowgophersnowgopher Member Posts: 3
    Hi just finished, the air intake is just under the plastic shield below the windshield. 20 minutes, and the car is back together. Hope this helps any one else, there is also an exhaust vent at the rear of the car in the trunk around the tail lights that de pressurizes the vehichle when the doors close, that should be checked if mice are a problem.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for the update. I hope it takes care of the issue for you!
  • dsorgnzddsorgnzd Member Posts: 2
    The mouse problem is not unique to Toyotas. I had a distinct dead mouse smell coming out of the a/c in a Dodge Stratus (always parked outside) last summer. I found a mouse carcass inside the a/c vent (luckily it hadn't chewed up anything except some insulation). I also found (and I am totally serious) a few pieces of snake skin in the same area - which troubled me more than the mouse, since I had been reaching blindly into the ductwork for about a half-hour, pulling out the nest the mouse had created from the insulation. I don't know how the mouse got inside the car, but they can fit into very tiny spaces. So, apparently, can snakes.
  • mtgloremtglore Member Posts: 1
    I recently started getting the dead rodent smell in my 2008 Corolla, too. I've noticed droppings inside the interior and have cleaned thoroughly but the smell persists. I live in the middle of the Mojave Desert so I'm hoping that whatever is dead will soon desiccate and the odor will go away. For the life of me, I can't locate the source.

    I've seen no sign of wire-chewing or electrical damage. I'll be moving to a much wetter and colder place within a month and I also hope that whatever rodent species that's taken to my vehicle will vacate or die with the climate change. Whatever the case, I'm concerned that whatever is living or dead inside the vehicle may be in the vent system. Since it's hot, I run the air conditioner frequently and have noticed that the smell from the vents is much better than the interior. Is this a good sign? What about when I start running the heater? Are there major mechanical differences between running the heater and running the AC? That is, if there's no odor when I run the AC (suggesting that the rodent is not in the vents), should I be confident that there will be no problem when I turn on the heater? People always mention turning-on the heater when they first recognize that there's a rodent problem...
  • tarrungtarrung Member Posts: 1
    I have noticed the following issue with my car (Corolla 2001 - 90 K) in last few months.

    If I don't idle the car and start driving, car would start choking and then turn off. I have to idle for 1-2 min and then it would run without any problem. I live in Florida, so cold weather is not a issue. it just started few months ago. Before that I never had this problem. Can anybody suggest, what should I be looking at ?

    Thanks in advance for the help.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Could it be that the original sparg plugs have reached the end of their life? The OEM plugs in the 2001 are iridium plugs and can last up to 120,000 miles. If they are double platinum plugs they can last up to 60,000 miles. I would suggest starting with a sparg plug check. Just remove one and see what the tip looks like. If the wire or the electrode are burned it's time to replace them.
  • jimwwhitejimwwhite Member Posts: 16
    I had a rude shock from my dealer the last time I took my car in for service. The service guy came back and showed me the cabin air filter which was really nasty. He recommended changing it and that it would cost $54.95. I almost choked. The OEM filter he was holding was very flimsy and couldn't have cost more than a few bucks to buy. I had him to put it back in and I stopped by the local NAPA store and they had replacement filters in stock for $14.95. The NAPA filter was more sturdily built than the Toyota filter. I looked in the owner's manual and it explained how to change it. All told I spent five minutes and most of that time was unloading the glovebox. How in the world can the dealers justify $54.95 for this is unbelievable. It makes me wonder if I want to continue to take my car to them for even routine maintenance. I'm making a note about this the next time they do the owners survey followup on the service visit. Do yourselves a favor and change it on your own. It takes no tools to do it.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Of course you'll pay more at the dealer. The dealers make more money on your return visits for maintenace and repair then they do selling new cars. Why not take it to a trusted local repair shop? The warranty will be in full force regardless, as long as you keep all receipts and records.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Most dealers do the same thing, because it is a very quick way to make a lot of money, and they can easily show you the dirty filter.

    Yes, change it yourself (under 5 minutes) and save big money!
  • kemukemu Member Posts: 1
    I changed my car engine from carbruetta to efi 4e engine. the RMP is not functional and after driving 40km the MIL goes on.After switching off the engine it goes off then on after next 30km climbing a slope i have tried mechanics do did the wiring without getting the solution What might be the problem
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Maybe your engine computer, which no doubt came from the EFI car, is expecting values equal to those in the original EFI car, say for the 02 sensors, catalytic converter etc.

    or it could be a simple misfire.
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    I usually go to a Toyota dealer (A) on the other side of town for upkeep like oil changes on my 08 Corolla. I decided to go to a closer (in terms of geography) Toyota dealer (B). The service writer at (B) claimed that the reason that their oil changes were more expensive ($ 34 vs. $ 20 at [A]) was because the other Toyota dealer wasn't using semi-synthetic oil. Toyota dealer (A) said that they did use semi-synthetic oil and that their competitor's claims were false. Neither of these prices include a tire rotation.

    What's the story on semi-synthetic oil? If the oil is being changed at a large Toyota dealer, why is there even a price differential on such a basic repair (and I'm past my 36K powertrain warranty)?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    They are all different businesses at different locations with different building, labor costs. Semi-synthetic is not much different than mineral oil.Since your basic warranty expired, why do not you change your own oil and filter? It is easier than you think.It takes 10 minutes for somebody who is not a mechanic.
    I do it myself, I use full synthetic oil and Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator Pure One filters.It costs me around 25-30 dollars and it is the best a car can get.The satisfaction of knowing you are doing it yourself is the extra benefit.
    Follow auto stores sales.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    The price difference is as dealer "B' said, dino oil is cheaper. 5 qts. X $2.50 per qt. is $12.50 plus filter and labor. Neither of those prices would include a tire rotation, you went for an oil change right? What does the 36 K warranty have to do with it? Oil changes are not covered by any warranty. How does dealer "B' know what dealer "A" is using anyway?
  • robie2384robie2384 Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the oil in my 04 corolla. The filter was put on too tight last time, so I wasnt able to change it this time. I put in 3.5 qts, and level on the dipstick is much higher than the two reference dots. The amount of oil put in is just about the same as the amount taken out. Do I have to drain some out so the level is right between the two dots?

    Thanks for your help
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Your probably around a 1/2 qt. too full which will be fine. When you start getting around a full qt. or more over filled, your oil can start getting foamy and not do a great job of lubricating your crankshaft.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    I could not unscrew the filter on my wife's car last year, I just changed the oil but I made a mental note to change both oil and filter earlier than we are supposed to. (at half the miles). I suggest you do likewise. Filter traps the dirt/dust in oil but if it is really plugged it might bypass it and dirty oil might start circulating.

    If the amount of drained oil is about the same as the amount of new oil, there should not be much difference on the dipstick. Are you sure it is the actual level and not the smeared oil on the dipstick? If it is the actual level and it is really way up there you can drain a little bit, if not it should be OK, especially if you are going to keep the oil change interval shorter than usual this time.
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