Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

1323335373876

Comments

  • lucian95lucian95 Member Posts: 11
    My Corolla CE came with Goodyear Integrity tires (185/65/15). Can anyone share some experience with these tires, especially on wet roads and/or winter driving. I don't see them as a confidence inspiring product. I haven't experienced any driving in heavy rain or snow yet.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I hate Goodyear Integrity tires! Horrible traction in wet conditions, not much better in dry conditions. I know I am not the only one with this opinion! Most OEM tires are bad, especially compared to premium tires you can buy. In my opinion, the extra $$ for good tires is worth it for the added safety. I recommend a high-end Michelin tire. Check Tire-rack.
  • sam29sam29 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My SRS Airbag light is on and I need to go for inspection too. I am guessing it will fail the inspection unless I fix it.

    Any idea what the problem could be?
    How much would it cost to have Toyota folks look at it?

    Thanks,
    Shrenik
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    I swore off Mich tires years ago because on my previous Toyotas, a couple of Celicas, I found them to be very slippery on rain. I prefer Bridgestone because of quiet and ride and haven't had any slippery type problems. I think its mostly personal - unless you are riding on a truly crappy tire.
  • thomasg3thomasg3 Member Posts: 2
    MY 05 Corolla has em and they aren't so hot. Talked with dealer and he said they were manufactured "hard" for long wear. Most Corolla sites I've seen rate them poorly. They also tend towards low stability at interstate speeds which I have noticed. I put Michelins on my Tacoma and the improvement was amazingly good especially high speeds.
  • rhoyourboatrhoyourboat Member Posts: 1
    I have no idea about what happened??? Went to turn on the defrost and my blows dont blow any more :( !!! Does anyone know why? Cant find my book.....

    Help me someone! :-)

    Thanks!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Well, if there were Michelins on the car when you bought it, then they would be bad, as most original equipment tires are junk. I am not saying all Michelins are good, just like not all Goodyears are bad. The key is spend the big $$ and get good tires. My X-1's are much quieter and have a 80,000 mile warranty, besides the fact that they stick to the road much better than the Integrity's.
  • pcotugnopcotugno Member Posts: 8
    Hope someone has experience with this.

    I have a 2005 Matrix with DRL. A nice safety feature...only one slight problem. I am an amateur astronomer. About once a month, I drive out to a "dark sky site", about an hour away from any city lights, to observe the cosmos. Before entering these sights, you must turn off your headlights so you don't light up the area, or ruin someones pictures doing astrophotography. I talked to the dealer about disconnecting this feature, and was told it could cost about $200, maybe more. Has anyone had this done, and what did it cost?
  • pcotugnopcotugno Member Posts: 8
    Where did you get a 2005 Corolla CE for $12,500? The best I can find around here (Denver), is $13,650. That includes quotes from several brokers, even for ones that have none of the option packages.

    pcotugno
  • fredyfredy Member Posts: 1
    I have a corolla'94 (manual). 4 years ago, I took it to the workshop for a clutch replacement, from that time, the car started making a noise (little tap) by the transmission, the mechanic told me it was the transmission which I dont feel any failure, so I thought he didn't do a good job and the clutch was incorrectly installed.
    however, I just replaced the clutch again and the noise is the same, but -since the first replacement- if I depress the clutch the noise goes away until I release it.
    I really appreciate your help cause this problem is driving me crazy. I have asked all my friends and workshops around and they dont have idea what could be wrong.

    Thanks
  • john45john45 Member Posts: 18
    I would check you fuse box for blow fuses. Also some vehicles have an additional Metal type Fuse under the hood. If that fails to produce results, possible bad fan?

    John

    I have no idea about what happened??? Went to turn on the defrost and my blows dont blow any more !!! Does anyone know why? Cant find my book.....

    Help me someone!

    Thanks!
  • inaina Member Posts: 5
    My blower on my heater/AC stopped working on 1 2 3 . I called a garage, and they said it could be the resistor. I had a hard time finding all the fuse boxes and checking them. Now does anyone know where the resistor is in a 1999 Toyota Corolla and is it easy for me to replace it myself, if I am not too familiar with repairs? What # is the part? I hear horror stories that may have to take the glove box out or the dash apart. I tried the Owners manual, couldn't find it. Is it in there?
    Thanks, Ina :(
  • inaina Member Posts: 5
    My Heater/AC blower stopped working on 1 2 3 . I called a garage and they said, it may be the resistor. I had a hard time finding all the fuse boxes, to see if it was a fuse! Not a fuse, it would of been too easy. Does anyone know where the resistor is located? Is it easy to replace myself, with limited knowledge? Please don't tell me that I have to remove the glove box or dash.
    Thanks, Ina :cry:
  • laszlolaszlo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Corolla with OEM GoodYear Integrity tires. At 23500 kms (17687 miles) the tire is at 7/32, just above the acceptable level. Have not experienced other problems so far, but the edge of the tire is almost bald and will have them replaced very soon - the replacement will not be GoodYear.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    If the edges are badly worn at 17k, you've got a suspension/alignment problem. Don't be too quick to blame the tires.
  • jreyesjreyes Member Posts: 1
    i have a 79 toy and i have a motor of a mazda rx7 89 fuel injected.. i would like to put the motor of this mazda in the body of toy..would like to know where i could find the hairnest so i can complete this ...??? someone help..thankslink titleimage
  • john45john45 Member Posts: 18
    A disengaged gear in a manual trans is illegal-I think. The saftey issue is that once it is coasting in neutual in perhaps a downhill situation it will become impossible to reengage into gear for control and stopping. The solution for that if it occurs is to increast rpm like 1200 by steeping on the gas so that the trans can go in gear easier. One could engage a 5sp transmission this way without using the clutch at all. I personally, would rather replace brakes pads (orgainic only! never semi-metallic) than replace a clutch and/or the transmission due to downshifting wear. That doesn't include the increase wear to the engine while each downshift increases gas consumption/idle. Go figure? what to do? :)
  • john45john45 Member Posts: 18
    You could check out the "forks" this is located and bolted on the transmission with a tube going into it. when you step on the pedel it compresses clutch fluid to a mini-hydralic stem-the size of a pen cap. This provides the transmission for engagement. Put the vehicle e-brake on. Have someone you trust depress the clutch while you are underneath the car to locate the noise. I'm probally wrong, but it might help you narrow down the problem. The forks cost appox 20 bucks.

    John
  • wyldcatzwyldcatz Member Posts: 17
    Not sure if this will help, but I installed a single CD player on my 1990 Acura a few years ago, and one of the features is a security "key", which is a CD that I programmed into it so that if the battery is disconnected somehow (through repairs, or theft attempt), the radio/CD player is rendered useless unless the person inserts that key CD. Because I'm getting ready to trade it in, I made sure to reprogram the security key with a CD that I don't want to keep, so that I can include it with the car when I get rid of it.

    Sounds like something similar is happening with your system. Did you get any documentation with the car regarding the radio/cassette player? If not, maybe you can contact the radio dealer to see if there's a way around it.
  • rr2rr2 Member Posts: 1
    I recenty bought a 2005 corolla. I had parked my car on a slope today. I found out that as soon as I started the car and took my foot off the brake, it moved backwards. I don't think I ever experienced that with a Toyota Camry I had prior to this car, so I am not sure if there is a problem with my new car. I would appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    What did you expect it to do? Hill+gravity+weight of car= movement unless its interrupted by brake application or engine power in the opposite direction.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    You want the technical answer? It has to do with the stall speed on the torque converter, and how much torque the engine generates at ide, and just off-idle. Simplified, it means there is not enough torque being passed through the transmission at idle to keep the car from rolling back, absent some push on the accelerator pedal.

    This is a lot more common than you think - only a transmission with a really low stall speed, and a fair amount of torque at idle, is going to hold a 3000 lb car on any kind of slope with no throttle input. In any case, it is not a problem, just a characteristic.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    You guys are missing the point. They were parked nose down. Its definitely the anti-gravity torque ratio guidance lever. It needs adjustment.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ....or something like that....
  • bb2101bb2101 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2005 corolla that is less than one week old. If the car runs for 30 minutes and I shut it off, and wait about 20 minutes, it just cranks and cranks but won't start till the fourth try. It is at the dealer now, and I am expecting to hear, there is nothing wrong!!!!
  • ganggang Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2003 Corolla LE with automatic transmission (17K miles). If I speed it up gradually, no problem. But if I cruise for a while and drop the speed a bit, then during the time I speed it up again it feels like the car is being dragged for about half a second around the speed of 40 mph. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is a little annoying. Is this something I should be concerned and have the dealer check it up?

    Many thanks for suggestions...
  • corrola99corrola99 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All -

    The "Engine check" light lit on my dashboard of my 1999 48K-mile corolla. I just brought it in to have an oil change done in the morning; it came on in that afternoon. It runs fine, as I have been driving it the past 3 days. How do I turn the light off? And what should I do next? Thanks.
  • hellofunhellofun Member Posts: 1
    :confuse:
    I bought a used 2000 toyota collora yesterday, the prevous owner told me that he just changed 2 oxigen sensors 2 days ago. I wonder is it a serious problem for change oxigen sensors ?

    This morning I found the light was on which means some problems occurr, shall I take is to the dealer to have a check immediately?

    I'm a new driver, don't know anything about the car, Thanks for help !
  • john45john45 Member Posts: 18
    The newer cars work this way:

    hold down the trip odometer pin while the car is off. Then turn the key to the ON position, do not start the car because it is not needed, while you are holding down the trip odometer pin. You should see a count down 4 3 2 1 then the light will go off. I'm not sure if it will work on a 1999.

    John

    ps. I would recommend the fuel filters too if it is plastic. I think the metal canisters are a little different in maintenance.
  • cluelessdinacluelessdina Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 corolla, automatic transmission. I've had it for more than 3 years now. Lately the engine has been rattling/sputtering when I accelerate. It's not very loud, but it definitely is noticeable and starting to happen consistently. Any thoughts?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Just a suggestion, but I would first have the fuel filter checked. It is one of the least expensive but at the same time the most common reason for problems that you're describing. If it is plugged, it would cause what you're describing. Hope that is what it is.

    Ken
  • lynnbrlynnbr Member Posts: 2
    I have 2000 corolla ve. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body using Valvoline carb/choke & throttle body cleaner. I only took of the intake hose. There was lots of liquid from the cleaner spray, so I had to clean it with a rag. Anyway, I cleaned the throttle body, started the engine. Everything is fine, but I feel less powerful than before when in acceleration. I kept thinking what I did wrongly. Last night, I noticed a continuous 'hiss' when the engine is running. I don't know if it is a leak of one hose, or connection, or engine compression?

    Anotherthing is that the engine is kind of shaking all the time. Is it because it is made of aluminum?

    Thanks,

    Lynn
  • bal123bal123 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Suddenly the lock in one of the passenger side door is not opening, it got struck in down position. I tried to open thru power lock as well as with key, its not opening. Any idea what th problem might be
  • stratojetstratojet Member Posts: 2
    I have a good friend who's a service manager at a Toyota Dealer . They now have full time trim man for fixing rattles in Corollas. When I was there, they had one in the shop with the dash pad removed; cause: finding a rattle. It is quite common .
  • lucian95lucian95 Member Posts: 11
    I just bought a replacement set of 4 tires for my Corolla. These are Falken ZIEX ZE-512 from Discount Tire, $45 per tire (195/65/15). What a difference compared to original Integrity tires. Car feels a lot more surefooted in any form of driving. I would highly recommend Falkens fto everyone looking for an inexpensive alternative.
  • jyopitrejyopitre Member Posts: 1
    I have a well maintained 2002 Corolla with almost 130,000 miles on it. Last year, while on the road, the car stopped and when check, it was found that the cam sproket of the engine had broken and the engine had to be replaced. That was fixed and the car was like new again... and there were no problems, until last week... I got the regular oil change done and a day or two after that, the car started showing the check engine llight. On further diagnosis, the mechanic told us that there was a problem with the oxygen sensor (something like the oxygen sensor was open). I am not sure what that really means, but, we were told that it would cost us about a 1000 dollars!!!! Does anyone have an idea if this cost is realilstic and could anyone throw some more light on this.

    Thank you.
  • i3000gtii3000gti Member Posts: 2
    Are you still having the problem? I have a '01 corolla auto with injen intake and its doing the same thing. I have about 53k on it. I just did a tune up, replaced the spark plugs, pcv valve, oil change, tranny service and it didn't help. Let me know what you did to fix this problem.

    O yeah does anyone know what a Fuel trim valve is? The dealer was going to charge me 294 for it, and i called up the parts department and they said no such part.
  • leyzurelaleyzurela Member Posts: 13
    just bought a corolla s 2 days ago. Noticed yesterday (while driving for about 20 minutes on the freeway and then on the streets towards my destination) a whistling noise. it was around 95-100 degrees outside. I couldnt hear it at first due to my radio being on, but as on as I turned it off there was a whistle noise coming from the front of the car. It sounded quiet until I opened the window and it was pretty loud. The whistling noise begins when I take my foot off the gas pedal. I dont have the brakes pressed or the gas pressed. when I go to brake and when my foot is changing from gas to brake (while my foot is in the air between the pedals) the sound starts. This was when the sound was most prominent. I noticed when my husband made a turn that there was a louder whistle but it only did it at that turn and not again when we turned again. We got to our destination and after seeing a movie we got in the car to drive home. Now there is no whistle. Well, not like before, this time it was more intermittent, like it happened whenever it wanted to and wasnt as loud. It was also short and brief. this morning we drove it to the dealership and now there is no noise at all!! I dont know what to do since the mechanics cannot repair something they cant duplicate. I noticed though the whistling happened at a time during the day when the temperature was hotter. When we drove it home the temperature was around 79 degrees also this morning when we took it to the dealership it was fairly cool. does anyone know what this is? I searched the forums but couldnt find anything quite like my problem. thanks for any help!
  • leyzurelaleyzurela Member Posts: 13
    oh forgot to say my car is an automatic
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Member Posts: 23
    you guys need to try cleaning your maf sensor that may help. its behind the air filter facing the brake fluid filler and has a wiring clip and is only attached with 2 screws so its easy to take off and spray clean with throttle body spray cleaner, or electrical contact cleaner. O2 sensors don't like silicone at all & it'll confuse the MAF as well so dont buy anything with that in it.
  • bigrodbigrod Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for all of your post's on corolla problems. I have a 05 corolla ce that has "paint chip problems" not so much chip but coming off leaving little round paintless dots. after countless hours of researching this I have found Toyota paint problems going back to the 1990's( and have printed out over 212 post/complaints I have found ). I took my car to a freind who's known world wide for his perfection in body and paint.We examined my car and the problem is CONTAMINATION under the paint!!! You can feel it and see it if you look good enough...He said when I wash the car I knock those pieces loose leaving a "chip or spot"...most of them are on my BACK BUMPER!!!!all of the post I have read, Toyota calls it a enviormental issue and IT"S NOT COVERED!! Apponitment next week with dealer about this and other issues...Have already spoken with VP and he has assured me everything will be fixed to my satisfaction...( if so I post the dealer I went to so 100,000 other people can get theres fixed)

    #2 FM radio fades in and out lots of static when driving..seen alot of these post all over the web..only effects 4 speaker system NOT any of the 6 speakers..Has been replaced twice....Dealer said he cannot put a different toyota radio in my car..waiting for answer on this one...

    #3 clicking and or ticking coming from front wheels...Dealer said to begin with" Ohhh they all do that..it's the HUPCAPS and we will go ahead and grease them for you. GREASE THEM????????? Claims there's to much flex from my steel rims going straight at 5 MPH......will find out next week..

    #4 after car is warm when you turn if off and try to start it again it will just sit there and crank...UPDATE toyota has just sent my dealer a few new computers that have been revised and I got one...works great...so you folks with this problem call your dealer...DON'T ASK DEMAND IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like i told EVERYONE AT MY DEALER (including the janitor) I WILL NEVER EVER EVER GO AWAY UNTIL MY CAR IS REPAIRED !))
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Member Posts: 23
    lol. boy that sure doesnt measure up to the toyota "quality" that they advertise does it. I had my corolla in the shop 12 times the first year so I wasnt impressed with their supposed "quality" either but it does run well now.

    Ive had front end & mirror paint chips from almost day one and I hate it because its a great looking car and the chips make it look ragged out. I wish they'd make paint stronger like the good ol' days where it'd resist chipping better.

    my chips are from rocks though, no chips on the back like you have.
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Member Posts: 23
    ahh...I forgot to ask, how is your friend chip foose? lol

    "I took my car to a freind who's known world wide for his perfection in body and paint."
  • misssunnymisssunny Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2002 corolla and it has 55000 miles on it. I was wondering if other than oil change what else service I should get for it. I don't want to just going to a dealer place and get a rip off :( please help me. :confuse:
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Member Posts: 23
    I wondered this too and found it listed in the manual under 60k mile checkup. I didnt get the suspension checked & lubed yet which you should include but I did this so far:

    -new air filter
    -oil
    -coolant
    -trans fluid
    -brake fluid when I got new front pads put on & rear brakes tightened
    -and rotated the tires.

    if you dont have a trusted mechanic to do this cheaper than the dealer then just take it to the dealer but dont try cheap mechanics they'll tear your car up like they did mine.

    *also, when they put your wheels back on tell them to torque your wheels to 74lbs with a torque wrench so they wont over torque them with an impact wrench and warp the rotors/drums like they did me. they also scratched my wheels from the impact wrench so tell them not to use that.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Check your owners manual for a listing of needed or recommended services. If you do alot of stop and go city traffic, then I'd use the Severe schedule. I do and I think the extra $ will be well spent. All highway is a different matter. Things like a tranny flush, transmission fluid drain and refill and possibly new brake fluid in the lines couldn't hurt. All told, maybe it might be a $700. 1 time expense, but with the price of new cars...it's cheap insurance to me. I did it on out '01 Altima at about the 60k mark, and the car is doing fine with almost 78k now.
    Look at it like insurance. You pay your premiums every year and many folks never have a catastrophe, but when a major one happens, the insurance helps to soften the monetary as well as the mental aggravation. It all depends on the amount of risk that you are willing to live with in your life. As for me, I'll spend the $ for the piece of mind and sleep better knowing something's in place just in case it's needed!
    Good luck whatever you decide.

    The Sandman :)
  • misssunnymisssunny Member Posts: 2
    thank you for responding my question :) I was wondering do you think I should just change the oil now and fix it big when it comes to 60k? how often should i rotate the wheels? and i think i did a transmission flush not long ago... and they wanted me to change a whatever belt and breaks too. do they do all these stuff when it's like 30k 60k and above? my mom always takes it to the dealer but i always think they are making stuff up to make money. I mean since now i have to pay by myself i want to make sure that i'm spending the right money. who knows if whatever belt inside my car is actually ware off :( :sick:
  • 01loadedle01loadedle Member Posts: 23
    someone will get your money in the end, either in maintanance, or in more costly repair if maintanance is put off, so Im going with the cheaper route.

    -the schedule guide says rotate the wheels every 15k miles but thats waiting too long so do it at oil change [every 5k miles] & use synthetic oil too btw.
    -yes trans flush & brake fluid is every 60k miles and I'd do it.
    -make sure to flush the radiator every 30k miles too btw.
    -yes change timing belt every 60k miles[$200, but cheaper than $1k+ breakdown].

    great, I just found cracks in my drive belt at 67k miles so Im fixing to replace that.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    I rotate the tires with every 4k oil and filter change, as it's included in the service anyways. Even if it wasn't included, I bought the tires where I go and they rotate free for the life of the tires.
    If you end up doing the timing belt at 60k, do the water pump at the same time as everything is off already and the labor cost should be minimal. If you wait on the water pump, everything has to come off to get to it and the labor charge goes up. My way, there's no labor as everything's already off. I did it this way on my '96 Corolla, and even if I didn't need the new water pump, my piece of mind was worth it to me as I'm a very low risk taker. Everyone has a different tolerance for risk...mine happens to be low and I do believe in preventive maintenance(?) as I want my cars to start everytime and don't want the wife or the kids to ever get stranded. The battery on the wife's car died the 1st time the 2 daughters took the car alone. Eventhough they had the cell with them, it caused some unneeded aggravation(?) and thankfully it did bring the wife around to my reasoning on preventive maintenance.
    It all depends on the risk tolerance you can bear in your life.
    Good luck.

    The Sandman :)
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    I rotate the tires with every 4k oil and filter change, as it's included in the service anyways. Even if it wasn't included, I bought the tires where I go and they rotate free for the life of the tires.
    If you end up doing the timing belt at 60k, do the water pump at the same time as everything is off already and the labor cost should be minimal. If you wait on the water pump, everything has to come off to get to it and the labor charge goes up. My way, there's no labor as everything's already off. I did it this way on my '96 Corolla, and even if I didn't need the new water pump, my piece of mind was worth it to me as I'm a very low risk taker. Everyone has a different tolerance for risk...mine happens to be low and I do believe in preventive maintenance(?) as I want my cars to start everytime and don't want the wife or the kids to ever get stranded. The battery on the wife's car died the 1st time the 2 daughters took the car alone. Eventhough they had the cell with them, it caused some unneeded aggravation(?) and thankfully it did bring the wife around to my reasoning on preventive maintenance.
    It all depends on the risk tolerance you can bear in your life.
    Good luck.

    The Sandman :)
Sign In or Register to comment.