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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    There is not one Period or Comma in this Post!!! :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • journeyman7journeyman7 Member Posts: 5
    Its interesting that this problem occurred so soon after replacing the fuel tank...hmmm. If the tanks vent system was kinked or not properly reconnected, the tank would tend to go into a vacuum and thereby starve the engine. Does a big suction sound occur when taking the gas cap off? (test very soon after engine dies). Ive heard of tanks totally collapsing because somebody replaced the old cap with one that was of the wrong type! - (like drinking a pop without stopping). If your car will run fine with the cap off or very loose, you should look into ventilation very much. Some heavy debris from the old tank could be intermittently floating up inside your fuel line toward your fuel filter while fuel flow is active, cut the engine, then drop back down the line allowing to mysteriously restart at idle speed but die at the higher fuel velocities. I would disconnect the fuel line input to the carburetor and pointing it in safe direction watch the fuel stream as you crank the engine over- repair manuals will quote pressures and volumes/time, but, just make sure that it is a robust strong stream (this will probably purge any debris 'floaters' out of your line too). Replace the in-line fuel filter: sometimes you can get ones with a semi-clear body to allow you to see if its clogged. Sometimes the carb has its own fuel filter too; check its inlet screen where the fuel line hooks up for blockage. If the fuel pump is mechanically activated by a push-rod off of the cam, I have seen these rods wear down short and will drive you nuts with fuel problems- compare the rod to a new ones length and you will be surprised at how much it has worn (limiting its stroke/pumping action). If it is an electric fuel pump, check it for loose electrical connections (common!) and just do the visual 'flow' test described above. Water in the gas will stop an engine too; some 'gas line antifreeze additive' aka 'gas dryer' will help with some water contamination. -Good Luck !
  • journeyman7journeyman7 Member Posts: 5
    This sounds like a classical vac line problem for sure to me. I knew a guy who was tortured with these symptoms for years before he finally found out which 'one' it was. I wouldnt try to figure out "which one", I would take a blanket approach to the problem and just replace them ALL in an afternoon, just to be done with it. Be VERY sure to get the proper inside diameter hoses, get a few feet of the various diameters your car requires, and then slowly methodically replace them one by one. They probably needed it anyway, and this will cross that gremlin off of your list if further troubleshooting is required. -Good Luck!
  • corrollasadnescorrollasadnes Member Posts: 3
    Mike,
    I am having the same issue with my 1996 corolla, although we never got to the point of replacing the solenoid. when I realized that the fuse was blown I replaced it, and for the past three weeks have had to continue to do so.
    I spoke with an all asian repair shop ( NOT A DEALER), and they basically told me that there is a short SOMEWHERE (big surprise), between the brake switch and the brake lights themselves. In order to find it the lines have to be thoroughly examined, so that is the point that we are at, when they locate the exact spot, I will post again, and maybe that will help fix your issue. :) Good luck
  • hoopituphoopitup Member Posts: 5
    What is the most mileage I can expect to get out of the original clutch on a Corolla? About how much does the clutch replacement run?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Mostly depends on the driver. 150,000 or more should be no problem, but very poor clutch technique can kill a clutch in 3,000 miles or less. I have heard replacement is $1,100 at a dealership, but only around $700 at a good mechanic. Why do you ask?
  • hoopituphoopitup Member Posts: 5
    A friend of mine told me around $1200 and I didn't believe him. He also stated about 80,000 to 100,000 miles was about the maximum life. I think your figures are a bit more realistic. I have a 2005 Corolla and got the 5-speed for the mileage benefits. It averages high 30's to low 40's MPG.(I have gotten 44 twice) I think it is the best buy around for combined economy, performance, and reliability.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    "I think it is the best buy around for combined economy, performance, and reliability." I completely agree. I have a '99 LE 5 speed, and I would only replace it (in another 6 years) with another one.
  • badkittybadkitty Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2001 toyota corolla. In fact it's at the dealership at this very moment due to the issue. I kept taking it in and they said they could find nothing wrong with it and to keep driving and keep an eye on the oil consumption. Now the crank is gone, number 4 piston is shot and who knows what else is wrong with it. I am not being covered under warranty because they are claiming I "ran it out of oil." This is of course ridiculous. I am now looking at paying out over $3000 for a rebuild. I've seen articles claiming it's a defect in the short block and should be fixed by the manufacturer but the mechanics at the dealership don't see it that way.
  • pmanmilespmanmiles Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I had the same problem and your problem is that your altinator is bad. You need a new altinator. My new problem is that I can not start the darn car. If you do the job yourself don't forget to disconnect the battery. I forgot this and got a spark while taking off the old altinator and once I replaced the new altinator I tried to start the car and It would not start. I just got the battery lite on and nothing. No clicks no sound just blanke. I tried to jump it and still nothing. I hope that helps you.
  • pmanmilespmanmiles Member Posts: 2
    I replaced my altinator and while I removing the old altinator I forgot to unhook the battery. I saw a spark and then unhooked the battery and put in the new altinator. After I replaced everything I tried to start the car and nothing happened. I tried to jump it but nothing. No sound, not clicking noise just the battery lite shined brite and nothing else. What could be the problem? Can someone help me?
  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    I have an unfortunate situation. The thermostat on my 1999 Corolla is in a very difficult place place to reach. The dealer wanted 300 Dollars just for the Thermostat job and 49 for the Collant Flush. I postponed the Thermostat for next year and just settled for the Collant flush. I had my Thermostat changed 3 Years ago... Any advice??
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I can understand flushing and replacing the coolant, but why are you replacing the thermostat? They rarely fail. My advice is don't worry about it if there are no other issues like overheating or a coolant leak.
  • uwbadgeruwbadger Member Posts: 2
    I have an 04 Corolla LE and like almost everything except the ugly fake wood trim. I'm starting to talk to service departments about parts needed and labor costs for replacing it with the standard black trim that comes in the CE, but wondering if anyone has had this done.

    Anyone have a general idea on cost? Thanks.
  • carrieanncarrieann Member Posts: 1
    Hi, when i close the drivers side and passenger side windows it sounds like they are going to break -i just bought this 2003 corolla LE and love it ---also my engine light went on at 51,460 miles and the book said to see the dealer--any ideas??
    thanks carrie
  • brokenzippybrokenzippy Member Posts: 1
    Thank you journeyman7 for your response to my problem. I figured I'd start with the simple stuff first. I added some dry gas and carb cleaner and the car runs fine now. I did check the gas cap as you suggested and it does make the suction noise. (This is probably why I had to have the tank replaced.) I'm pretty sure that the cap is a replacement cap so I'm going to contact Toyota to see if they still make caps for this car. I suppose a junkyard might have one as well.
    I really appreciate your advice. If I have to take it in for service for the same problem, I won't feel clueless.
    Thanks again,

    Brokenzippy1
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Member Posts: 53
    My situation:

    *1998 Corolla with 120K miles
    *Was driving in stop & go traffic when smoke suddenly started pouring into passenger cabin.
    *Pulled into a parking lot, opened hood and there was an electrical burning smell (along with lots of smoke).
    *After the smoke cleared, everything looked OK except for the main wire(s) coming from the positive terminal of the battery... all of the wires that are bundled together and connect to the positive battery terminal are burned and melted.
    *Right now, with the battery still connected, the car won't start - and nothing electrical works (even door light).
    *If I hook up a starter battery to the car battery, all of the electrical components (windows, radio, horn, locks, lights, etc) WORK - but when I try to start, the engine makes a clicking noise (doesn't turn over).

    I think it's an obvious short-circuit that caused the wire bundle to fry. The same bundle that comes from the positive terminal of the battery runs along the bottom of the engine block - I'm thinking the wire broke free of a plastic harness/mount, the insulation melted against the engine block, and a short-circuit occurred.

    Ideas? ALSO, does anyone know if changing out the wire bundle that is connected to the positive battery terminal is expensive? I'm hoping the wire was compromised and all I need to do is purchase the same bundle of wires...

    Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help!
  • rjk711rjk711 Member Posts: 1
    Hey
    I just took my 98 corolla in to have the engine looked at today because it was burning oil like crazy. I currently have to check it every 800-1000 miles. My engine was fine, apparently my car just burns oil. This has been a problem for a couple of years only this past year has been the worst. When i get my oil changed i just buy an extra 5 quart bottle and keep it in my trunk and fill every week the necessary amount.
    I've been told there is not much else i can do.
    (By the way, just had my timing chain replaced in the spring but that is because it is something that needs replacement every 60-70 k miles).
  • joearterjoearter Member Posts: 2
    My problem is.......When i press on the gas i get a a fluttering sound and when i take my foot off the gas and just coast i get a sort of popping sound. Does anyone know what this could be?
  • toyocoroll95toyocoroll95 Member Posts: 1
    Hey ya'll,
    I am a college student loving my 95 corolla automatic but am having some troubles out of it. One day when I was driving home, my interior lights went out. After I pulled over to make sure my exterior lights were ok, my car would not move out of park. So here I am stuck in a dark parking lot and my car stuck. The only way I got it home is that some man was able to yank the gear into drive. Days later I find out that none of my back light come on. I was advised by some other web site it was my brake light switch, but we tried that and my brake lights still don't come on and I still have to yank my gear out of park. What could be the problem? Has any one else ran into this problem and was able to get it fixed. I love my car and really don't want to get a new one, not to mention I don't have money for a new one. Please help!! :sick:
  • hammer3hammer3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everybody, looks like a great forum. I have recently put a transmission in a 87 Corolla. 1.6 FWD . Carburated . Here is my question, this little car ran like brand new before the tranny job. after i finished off the tranny job i started the car up and it runs like crap, wont idle. not much power at all going down the road, the tranny shifts out fine. i have went through the whole car looking for vacum leaks. plugged off the egr all those sorts of things. i dont know where to go next, any help would be greatly appreciated..I might add, this car sat for about a year prior to the tranny swap. Hammer
  • skanthskanth Member Posts: 5
    Hi folks,
    I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla CE, with 4 Kumho Touring tires of dimensions 185/65/R14 .

    Can anyone please tell me what should be the tire pressure, I feel my mileage is going down. Its giving me around 22 miles per gallon.

    Thanks in advance.
    SK
  • joearterjoearter Member Posts: 2
    Well i had a very similar problem. One day a cop pulled me over out of nowhere and said i had absolutly no braje lights. I freaked out and took it to my mecahnic, he told me it was my brake light switch. needless to say it wasnt that. I went through at least 6 in about a 2 month period. So my mechanic finally figured out that my car could no longer handle four brake light bulbs (weird enough for ya yet?). So we took one bulb out of each one. A week later they went again. I took it back and my mechanic put repeaters on them and now they work great. Now for your tans the part i belive they put on my car for that is called a sylanoid (check spelling and pronunciation). That is my experiance i hope this helps. Joe
  • corrollasadnescorrollasadnes Member Posts: 3
    toyocoroll95,
    Just went through this with my 96...
    First check your brake light connections. You are going to need to unscrew them from the trunk, and check all bulbs and wires. There was a short in my brake light connection on the passenger side, first bulb in, the wires were fried, and we replaced them with something called a pigtail connector.You are also going to need to replace your 15amp fuse that runs your brake lights, as when there is a short it blows the fuse. This is why the car would not come out of park, there is a safety feature that will not allow you to drive it without brake lights . As a side note, if you are ever in the position that you cannot get it out of park again there is an override button to the right of your shifter, pop the little plastic piece off and push the button in with a screwdriver, and viola :) ..you can shift into drive.
    Hope this helps !!!
  • sureshjsureshj Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just wanted to know if the engine in a 1995 Corolla has the "Toyota" name embossed on it. I am looking to buy a used one, but i saw that the engine in that car does not have a toyota name or symbol on it. Can some one confirm if the 95 corolla engines have the label on them or not.
    Thanks
    Suresh
  • obie2obie2 Member Posts: 20
    The outside edges of the front tires are wearing out on my '05 Corolla (9000 miles). Has anyone else had this problem? I am wondering if it should be a warranty issue. They are worn completely through the tread.
  • eajonesgueeajonesgue Member Posts: 3
    My 1995 5 speed manual transmission just started to jump out of fifth gear into neutral, usually under a bit of load. It's fine in both 3rd and 1st gears. I can't remember the last time the tranny oil was changed and was going to do that. However, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem and whether it just needs a linkage adjustment, or a $$$ overhaul?

    Thanks
    Evan
  • skanthskanth Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla CE, with 4 Kumho Touring tires of dimensions 185/65/R14 .

    Can anyone please tell me what should be the tire pressure, I feel my mileage is going down. Its giving me around 22 miles per gallon.

    Thanks in advance.
    SK
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    It does not. You can also check the VIN # on the engine - (I can't remember where it is on this generation.)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    More than likely a worn out synchronizer ring, requiring a rebuild. Probably $500-800. How many miles? This is unusual.
  • obie2obie2 Member Posts: 20
    Did you change the gasoline in the tank during the 1 year it sat. If not, it begins to turn to varnish. With a carbureted engine you may be able to get away with some type of gasoline additive that will dissolve out of your fuel system. May have to run a few tanks through. Hope it is that simple, Matt
  • krh14krh14 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Corolla CE. The rear tire on driver's side is wearing funny. When it 1st happened the tire dealer said it was due to bad strut. I replaced the strut even though it was not leaking oil and seemed good. The tire is wearing oddly again? The other 3 tires are wearing well with no problems. Any ideas as to problem. Tire makes a lot of noise as well!!!! Thanks!!!!!
  • eajonesgueeajonesgue Member Posts: 3
    It has over 420,000 km of highway driving.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Yup, unfortunately they didn't build them to last. :)
  • marylou18marylou18 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have the opportunity to buy a 2004 LE with low mileage but it has been in a collision. I've seen all the paperwork and both the dealership and auto body shop say it's fine, but should I buy a used car that's been fixed?
  • robmccrobmcc Member Posts: 2
    obie2 i would bring it to the delership and have them do a front end alignment and also check the ball joints or tierods you should not have that kind of wear after 9000 miles i own one and also work for a dealership trust me that is not normall
  • robmccrobmcc Member Posts: 2
    marylou18 buying a car that has been in an accident is not always a bad idea but if you plan on trading it in some time it will not be worth that much money what kind of price are they talking about
  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    It turns out the pulsation of the Brakes was not the Antilocks Kicking in, The problem was the Rotor. The Dealer Resurfaced the Rotor and I cannot tell you how beautiful my Brakes perform. He charged me 189.00 for the entire job. Yes, Dealers do charge alot of money for service, but the result is a job well done..
  • martinguymartinguy Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to this forum but glad i found it! Sounds like a lot of ppl have found some good solutions here. THIS WILL BE A LONG POST, SORRY. VERY ODD PROBLEM TO DESCRIBE.
    Here's my problem:
    My '01 Corolla S has a problem starting after sitting for a while(overnight). Depending how long it's been sitting, it will either do nothing at all when the key is turned, or slowly and lethargically start to crank, then start cranking faster gradually until normal and finally start. The battery has been replaced, the alternator is working, haven't checked the starter.
    HERE'S WHERE IT GETS WEIRD -
    I discovered some time ago - by mistake - that if I leave the dome light on while the car is parked it will start right up with no problems. I know this makes little or no sense according to all that is logical (you don't generally want to drain your battery to fix a starting problem...) But it works! Anyone ever heard of such a problem? If so, any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  • martinguymartinguy Member Posts: 2
    I agree factory service will give you a job well done. However I've had my rotors resurfaced (turned) for about 8 bucks and bought pads for under $40. (Top of line pads are only about $60.) Glad your story turned out w/ a happy ending. But my suggestion is to have your rotors turned elsewhere before you have your dealer perform a brake job(or do it yourself, take it elsewhere, etc.). Saves you a little bit, and turning rotors is usually a job done well by just about any shop(even Pep Boys, whom i don't trust for ANYTHING else...)
  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    I had a bad expierience with a brake job i had done a couple of years ago by a local shop. The guy used Aftermarket pads ( Not Toyota Pads). It turned out the Pads scortched the Rotors because they were not compatible . I paid 350.00 for front and rear brakes. It turned out he didnt even touch the rear brakes. Instead of going back to the guy, I did what i should of done in the first place. I went to the dealer and had the whole done job over again from saratch. Front and rear Brakes costed me 650.00. I learned a 250 Dollar lesson.
  • mcase2mcase2 Member Posts: 160
    Marylou
    The opinion of the dealer is a joke so you can dismiss it out of hand. What auto body shop says its ok: your own independently selected shop or some incestuous business relation of the dealers? Keep in mind most dealers are white collar criminals, they lie, they bait and switch on deals, they fail to keep promises and often don't know who you are once they have your money. They have a BAD reputation for a reason and never cut you break. This is all doubly true of used car dealers. If the car is going cheap there is a reason. But if you still want to go ahead and buy a used car that has been in accident ok, but at least find out the answers to some questions. 1. What kind of accident? a fender bender or a frame bender that caused the car to be totaled by an insurance company? - if the frame was bent and then straightened my opinion would be don't buy it - if the car was totaled DON'T buy it under any circumstances. 2. how does this accident affect the manufacturers warranty - if it voids any transferable warranty - don't buy it. Finally, do not take the dealers word on anything. I would strongly recommend you get the VIN number of this vehicle and use one of the online services such as Carfax, to research this cars entire history before you do anything else. P.S. researching any used car in this way is always a good idea.
  • mcase2mcase2 Member Posts: 160
    The car manufacturer's recommended PSI is posted on the inside of the driver's side door jamb and the maximum PSI for your tire is stamped on the tire itself. Choose a PSI in a range between the two that suits you. Personally, I find the car manufacturers recommended pressures on the low side, especially on the front end where the weight of the engine is, but do not exceed the tire's max PSI stamped on your tire.
  • mcase2mcase2 Member Posts: 160
    I' m sorry to hear about your tires. It would be hard to present this as a warranty issue. There are too many variables, such as alignment, and tire pressure that are the owner's responsibility. Further, the tires are warranted by the tire manufacturer and they will invoke the same reasons for wear as Toyota. If you can show that the car cannot be aligned properly due to some defect then you can make case.
  • tgulatgula Member Posts: 3
    I am having problems removing the starter on my 1999 Corolla. I found one mounting bolt, electrical connection, and battery connection. Cannot locate the second bolt. :confuse:
  • joe99corollajoe99corolla Member Posts: 5
    I take it that you've located the one bolt on the lower part of the starter.
    The upper bolt is located on the other side from the starter. It's under the throttle body. I don't know how easy it is to reach, as I've not had to remove my starter.
    You might want to purchase a repair manual if you plan to do other repairs. One is Haynes and costs about $10-15 at advance auto.

    Joe.
  • tgulatgula Member Posts: 3
    I have the manual. The manual's diagram is not clear. This bolt is very hard to get to. I may have to remove some parts. Looks like the bottom radiator hose may help. I hope I don't have to remove the intake manifold.
  • abhijitduttaabhijitdutta Member Posts: 4
    I have bought an used 2000 Toyota Corolla and I noticed that after I switch off my A/C some fluid drops on the ground of the passenger seat next to the driver. I touched the fluid and felt like water. Is this quite normal or is there any problem with my car A/C?
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    What's the change interval for the manual transmission? I have an 02 Corolla, and it's got about 51k on it. I don't see in the service manual anything about changing out the transmission oil. I don't think for the long haul it's a good thing to keep the original oil in the gearbox. Anyone know?
  • baltychenbaltychen Member Posts: 50
    I have a 2005 Corolla and recently the Maintenance Light comes on. I do all the maintenance by myself such as: change engineer oil, rotate tires.

    Can any one help me and show me how to turn off the Maintenance Light??

    Thanks.
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