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my grandmother has a 2003 Toyota Corolla LE, and I have pretty much set everything up for her on that car. The lights turning on 5-10 seconds later is normal on her car, and she has had absolutely no problems, so don't worry about it!
Maybe the overdrive button on the side of the shifter(if you have automatic transmisson), is pressed.
Since, when i turn the key on I get no power anywhere(and i know there is power in the battery and the battery post connections are good)it must be the ignition switch or a fuse somewhere.BUT- even with the switch off the lights should come on -right?i don't know.I looked for a fuse or fusible link coming from the positive side of the battery,but could not see any due to cables location.
I hate to just take it into a shop not having a clue.The other possibility that comes to mind is a defective engine computer -could that cause the wholev electrical system to shut down?Any help is really appreciated.
Sometimes when I start the engine up and shift to reverse (5spd), the tranny growls (not a good sound).. also, when the car is rolling backwards down a driveway for instance, I don't dare shift to reverse cus the tranny doesn't like that AT ALL!
Does this happen to anyone else? Is this standard for a manual transmission? I need to know if I should get it checked out at the dealership.. Thanks!
thanks to any response.
2. If in neutral, with clutch released, put in clutch, go to first or fourth, then put into reverse.
You might want to check out some websites on standard transmission operation to make sure you are not doing anything else wrong.
funny you mention it, that is exactly what i do, take it up fifth and bring it down to reverse (that seems to work for some odd reason!!) :confuse: thanks though! any clues about my posting on Accessories & Modifications?
rollaboy, "Toyota Corolla Owners: Accessories & Modifications" #236, 23 Jan 2006 12:35 pm
I have not yet had a chance to visit the problem in the daylight.
they called me to tell me that the charcoal canister with the VSV part had to be replaced. The cost is $900 but since the car is under warrantee, they'll charge only for the diagnosis $85 and to clean fuel lines, injector and tank at a cost of $295. Also, they recommended service
"C" as they did not know whether or not I ever had the car serviced. I replied: "Are you kidding me? do you really think that I would drive 15000 miles without at least changing the oil?
I called my mechanic who has serviced and fixed my cars since 1992. He told me to "get the car out of there" after the do the work under warrantee. I called the service adviser and authorized him to do the required replacement of parts mentioned above and nothing else. I mentioned to him that at the moment I am short of cash but that I intent to bring the car back in a month and let them do the recommended work. The guy said that cleaning fuel lines, injector and tank is essential or otherwise I have 50-50 chances of having parts fail again which will not be covered under warrantee next time. I insisted that they change the faulty parts only, and to not charge me for diagnosis as the light on the panel is continuous and not intermittent.
I picked it the car late in the afternoon, drove to the private shop and left it.
Back at home I spent time researching my car's problem mainly through Goggle and found that I am not the first Corolla owner experiencing canister and VSV failure.
These components regulate the fuel intake. The issue is that other owners went through premature failure of these parts which are costly to replace if the car is not under the 36000 mile warrantee. It does not really cost $900 for the parts and labor. I believe that this dealer (located in Brooklyn, NY) wanted to scare me and in doing so, double dip. Had I not kept my wits about me, I would have driven out with a $600 bill today.
I would never let the dealer do scheduled maintenance on my car. By the point is that according to information I glanced from the internet, Toyota knew for sometime this problem but did little or nothing to correct it. It leads me to believe that Toyota bullet proof quality is a thing of the past, it has grown to be a giant, about to become the number one car manufacturer in the world and it lost touch with the consumer. Some of its dealers (perhaps not all) continue to gouch customers and make tremendous amounts of money from poor slobs like me that believe in the urban legend of "Toyota reliability".
In the first year of ownership, you may have to do this a few times.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
For those unsuspecting Corolla owners, I repeat that the charcoal canister and VDV(Vacuum Switch Valve)failure happens to these cars, and often after the basic warrantee expired. I'd suggest to have this checked even though no check engine light has appeared on the dash. Also, to write to Toyota to cover yourselves in the case that this problem does occur. I thought about NHTSA, but they deal only with automobile safety issues. Perhaps the Dept. of Consumer Affairs.
My only nagging doubt is that if the above mentioned components did not in some way prevent carbon build up in
fuel line,injectors, etc.,why am I being charged for a service that should be done as result of parts failure and not customer neglect?
When I get the questioner from Toyota I will explain methodically what the dealer did and did not do. I will attach a letter to the questioner. Not that Toyota will give a hoot. But I will be one more Corolla owner complaining. In any case, I don't expect to buy anymore Toyotas.
***just put in the info (year, make, model) required****
good luck
Need some help as to what to do or what to look and clean or change. Thanks in advance.
The maintenance guide for my Toyota Corolla says I should flush the transmission fluid at 45K miles, yet today I went in for an oil change and they said the trans. fluid was black -- bad shape. I'm barely at 37K miles. Is this a bad sign? Should I worry? FYI, I do *some* off road driving; I live in Colorado and sometimes have to drive around steep rural unpaved roads.
Any advice would be great. Thanks!
I went to a mechanic and he charged me $40 to use his digital sensor which indicated to replace catalytic convertor and (maybe)O2 sensors. He told me he would reset (so engine alert would go away for now). He told me to wait for couple more months instead of spending $$ (~1000 total) now. Maybe I can go back and find out exact error message. Nice mechanic did not try to push .
I guess I have no recourse with the seller right? I mean this happened 2 hours after purchase. I had paid $65 for inspection earlier- what a waste.
Car runs fine but is this (purchase)something I can postpone?
Thanks guys wonderful forum here!
Kish
The car passed smog test over 1 month ago- maybe that is why local mechanic told me to wait?? He told there there would be no problems wrt mileage or driving..
I guess I will have to take it to a dealer someday..probably when oil change is due next month. For now there is no engine fault indication.
Cheers,
Kish
I've posted once, long ago...more of a lurker than a poster. Really love these forums.
At any rate, I bought a 2006 Corolla S manual in early January of 06. Loved the car at first. The more I drove, however, the less I like it.
First off, the driver's seat is too dang uncomfortable. Can't find a great spot, and the keys always hit my knee.
Anyway, on to more serious stuff. Within the last week, I've noticed my car is much noiser than previously. Additionally, it doesn't accelerate like it should. It feels almost as if the emergency brake is halfway on, but it isn't, as I rolled it across teh parking lot. Any thoughts? I am going to check the tire pressure tomorrow, but that wouldn't account for the extra engine noise.
Anyone put synthetic in at the 5k oil change? Any difference? thanks.
Thanks to anyone with input!!
Tyrel
I have a question about my 99 Corolla CE. Its been running fine till now, all scheduled maintenance and regular oil changes. Nary a problem.
Has 48000 miles on it.
Yesterday the check engine light came on, the one about engine transmission and electrical system. Everything seemed to be fine, all the lights were one and the car was running fine.
I checked the manual and checked the gas cap, and lo and behold the rubber was out of alignment. I fixed it but the light stayed on. I took it to the local mechanic and he actually fixed the gas cap. However he said the light stays on and has be reset.
For that the OBD has be run and I got a couple of quotes (from the dealer, autozone, strauss auto) and they all quoted around $85.
Would I really have to shell out that much for a gas cap?
Any remarks,
PT.
You can also disconnect the battery for a while and this will reset it.
Autozone or one of these type of places can pull the error codes (reasons) for check engine lights for free.
A new gas cap will be way under $85. Check your dealer parts dept. or an online Toyota parts place.
I do not know what to do with this.
I would just keep adding oil as long as possible, because to open up the engine, you are talking major $$.
My '99 has 82,000 miles, does not burn any oil.