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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • carfriendlymancarfriendlyman Member Posts: 2
    there are many things that can effect your gas mileage. first check you tire pressures. make sure they are what the dorr jam sticker says. if they are ok checl the wear of your tires. if there are wearing unevenly then you may have a alignment problem which will effect you gas mileage. also not sure where you live but if it is an area that gets cold in winter then there are also diifferent blends of gas for colder climates to help reduce condensation and mositure (impuraties) is gas. you may want to try different gas companies as well. try one gas comany for two fill ups and then try another. to see if any improvement. your engine also has a break in period which swhould be anywhere from 8,000 to 10,000 miles. one thing to keep in mind these vehicles are tested on dynos which is not nearly close to everyday driving. well goodluck try those few things see if they help
  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    When i first drive my Corolla in the morning, The air from the vent smells like something is burning. I have it sent to Fresh Mode. It goes away after driving for a few minutes... Any thoughts??
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    is it a brand new vehicle? it could be some chemicals burning off from initial part manufacture. if the vehicle is older, it could be that during an oil or anti-freeze service, some overspill got on the engine and is now burning off.

    having written that, the FIRST thing i would do is open the hood, start the car, and look for anything amiss...leaking fluids, smoke from anywhere, wires / insulation in contact with hot engine parts.

    if there was nothing obvious, and if the vehicle is new or just had an oil or anti-freeze/coolant change, i'd probably take the vehicle for a long drive and see if that takes care of it. but this presumes i looked it over really well and saw where there might be spillage, or i was sure there wasn't anything making contact with hot engine parts that shouldn't be.

    otherwise, you might want to bring it right in to your dealership.
  • charleytampacharleytampa Member Posts: 43
    Hey guys,

    While washing my gf's car I noticed that her tires have a large crack on the side. They're the standard tires that came with the car (i.e. not the Bridgestone's put some el cheapo tire), and I've been looking around.

    The Kumho's are hard to find and have to be special ordered. The stores I've called are trying to unload the Falkien's on me (or her, rather; I'm doing the researching).

    Any recommendations? Anyone know who the cheapest tire place is? For example, for four Falkiens from Sears it'll cost 350 OTD. That's outrageous. Are those prices negotiable? thanks a bunch!

    Charley

    ps If anyone knows what tires to buy for the Corolla, please do share. I know some are better for mpg, some for handling, etc etc etc.
  • theboneguytheboneguy Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,

    I've got a problem with my '94 Corolla. I can hear and feel a "thunk" from the front, right wheel area when taking off from a stop. The only time it happens is taking off from a stop. I've had two mechanics look at it, one replaced a master cylinder and the other replaced the axle. It's still making the noise. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

    Thanks in advance.

    TheBoneGuy
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if it were me, in a standard touring all-season, i'd consider bridgestone turanzas or kumho touring 795s.

    go to:
    www.tirerack.com to compare tires. you might also decide to have some shipped and installed at a participating shop.
  • jeromy1998jeromy1998 Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: My wife has a 2000 Corolla CE, and recently a clicking noise has started coming from around the passenger side of the engine....mainly when she is going from a stopped position, to acceleration. It almost rattles at times...Also, now there is a "whistling" noise coming from the same area, as well. could anyone help me with this? Thanks!
  • coopdog3coopdog3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Toyota Corolla the starter is going out . I notice the check engine light was on and saw that the car temperture gauge was red line I need however get it to a station and cooled it down before it died. Then i notice the fan #1 fuse was burn and put a little foil in their to get the fan going now the car will start but only run while the key is in the starting postionas soon as you let go of the key it dies. Can anyone help me?
  • ahandleyahandley Member Posts: 2
    I didn't even realize my toyota was doing that until i went into walmart for a oil change and they told me i didn't have one drop of oil in my car!!! They couldn't give me a reason either. Did you ever find out what was going on? i have a 99 corolla.
  • ahandleyahandley Member Posts: 2
    I ACCELERATE AND HAVE TO TURN MY A/C OFF. ONCE I GET UP TO 50-60 IM GOOD TO GO, BUT IT ALMOST STALLS OUT (I HAVE AN AUTOMATIC) SOMETIMES WHEN I ACCELERATE. NOW WHEN I IDLE IT SOUNDS LIKE IT IS GOING TO SHUT OFF.
  • mtglennmtglenn Member Posts: 3
    No, still waiting for someone to tell me. Same thing happened when I went to Walmart also. My corolla also is a 99.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    perhaps the idle needs adjustment or the vehicle is mis-reading the throttle position (ie you need a new throttle position sensor).

    i think the engine control unit is supposed to kick up the idle with the A/C engaged. if it's mis-reading the throttle position, it may not be doing so.

    you may have clogged fuel injectors. i'd run a can of injector cleaner in the car at next fillup (read the instructions on the can).

    you may have intermittent plug wires, or very fouled plugs.

    there could be a number of things contributing to the vehicle's current condition. has it been seen by a mechanic?
  • jshriverjshriver Member Posts: 1
    In general I really like TireRack and if you use one of their recommended installers it can be really easy.

    Justin
  • echan05eeechan05ee Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my A/C unit. Everything is fine except, for some reason, the unit shuts off and won't come back on. I have been told that there is an open somewhere in the circuit causing the unit not to get power. I know nothing about electricity so this news is like brail to me. Is there somewhere I can get a copy of schematics(don't know how to spell it) or does someone know what I could be looking for.

    Thank you for your help

    Eric
  • denmacdenmac Member Posts: 1
    I have the whistle, too. It occurs at 65mph and above, but only when driving into strong winds. Opening a window is the only way I have found to make it stop.
  • rlmpartrlmpart Member Posts: 1
    I have A 95 corolla with a 1.8 7afe engine. At 2000 to 3000 rpm the car starts bucking as if the injectors are basically being shut off. If it is above or below this RPM the car runs like a top. It has great fuel pressure while it is doing this, tested after the fuel filter. We also changed the TPS unit cause it seems to be the only thing that controls the throttle. If anyone has run into this or have anymore questions please type back. Thank You.
  • art22art22 Member Posts: 4
    I've had my car about 1000 miles. It's a CE automatic and I live in Florida. I noticed the temperature guage needle rising to the red when I was in stop and go traffic today. I immediately pulled over and stopped the car for several minutes. I had to stop using the AC when in stop and go. It's covered under warranty and i'm bringing it in Thursday. What could the problem be? Maybe the fan isn't engaging. It's probably done that before but I didn't notice. What's going on with this car?
  • carlisimocarlisimo Member Posts: 1,280
    Hi everyone. I'm here on behalf of a friend who's a little scared of forums like these. She has a '99 Corolla.

    Basically a nickel fell into the air vent under the windshield, and she's wondering if it could fall into any place where it could cause damage. In other words, is there a grille or filter between the air vent and the fan? I'm going to look for diagrams but if anyone knows that'd be great! Thanks.
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    I suggest you first check the amount of fluid in the radiator system.
    Leak? Is the fan turning with the engine on?
    Get thee to the dealer if under warranty.
  • art22art22 Member Posts: 4
    I just got my car back from the dealer. It was missing a fan fuse and the relay switch was faulty. So much for Toyota quality control. I could have probably fried the engine. It appears to run fine now.
  • dmac99cedmac99ce Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 corolla CE and my driver side window has been giving me problems for a while and now it wont go down at all do i need a new window regulator or do i need to change the fuses and if changing the fuses it it where is the fusebox located to do it ???
  • darrelmaltbydarrelmaltby Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 Corolla has over 214,000 km (133,000 miles), manual transmission, original clutch, and I have been fighting an oil consumption problem for two years. I lose a quart every 1,500 km (1,000 miles), so if I don't fill up between oil changes, it would be bone dry.

    One dealership told me this consumption was "within Toyota specs", but another dealership never heard that before. They figured it was a carbon buildup and attempted to remove it by removing the oil and spark plugs and putting a heavy-duty pre-tune-up fluid to dissolve the carbon around the rings (compression test before this came up "normal", so no cracked cylinders), and leave it sit overnight. Put in new oil and spark plugs, and away I go. Although I got a noticeable increase horsepower (two year's of combusted oil in the cylinder chambers didn't help performance), my oil consumption is the same as it was before.

    The car is otherwise in perfect condition, so I'm seriously considering an engine overhaul...
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    First thing I'd do is consider the possibility I have a stuck PCV valve. Cheap stuff. Pull it and shake it back and forth. If you can't hear the ball bearing in it move (click/clack), replace it. It can contribute to oil consumption.

    Second thing I would do is place a white sheet of poster board down on the ground under where I park. I'd look for signs of dripping oil, and see if I could locate it. Maybe you have a leaking oil pan or leaking drain bolt.

    Third thing I would do is use an engine degreaser to clean the engine free of junk. Then I would drive it for 1K and see if there was an obvious source of leaking.
  • darrelmaltbydarrelmaltby Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the quick response! I'll have to look into the PCV valve, since that sounds like a new recommendation.

    As for the oil leak checking, I have had three engine shampoos to check for seepage over the last two years, and although a tensioner O-ring was replaced, the mechanic didn't think it was the primary cause for the oil loss.

    I park the car in the same spot on my driveway for the past 6 years, and there isn't a mark on the driveway at all, from any stains.

    When the spark plugs were last replaced, there were only about 20,000 km on them (12,000 miles), and a couple were already showing signs of problems. I had them replaced last summer since the last set were actually causing mis-fire problems because one of the spark plugs was completely gummed up (likely from trying to burn oil along with the gas).

    I have had a mechanic (always Toyota service centres for the car) think that a sludge build-up on the valve covers could have been the cause of the oil consumption, and they put in a Wynn's engine treatment, but that didn't resolve anything. I have tried various engine treatments from Valvoline, etc., but didn't want to do too many, since they may conflict with each other and complicate the issue further.

    The last thing I heard from one of the mechanics was a potential problem with the short block, but that sounded sort of vague.

    Thanks again for helping!
  • jean70jean70 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    My corolla is only a few hundred miles but since I bought it I've always had difficulties with the 3rd gear which is very hard to put (I have to go to neutral each time before which is not viable).
    I'd like to try to raise the clutch pedal: can someone explain me how to proceed?
    Thank you for your help
    Jean
  • coupe1942coupe1942 Member Posts: 1
    I am completely new to Toyota engines, but this month's Rod and Custom mag showed a couple of Model A street rods that had non-traditional engines in them. Not the typical 350/350, 454 or flattie engine, but 20R and 22R engines. The horsepower and speed accessories are easy enough to come by and easy enough to add as desired. Adding some sidedraft carbs, be it Webbers or 240Z made it look pretty good in the pics they showed. I have a 1930 tudor that I plan on swapping the stock engine out of in the near future. I am interested in learning more about these engines and would like to know which would be the better choice if economy and ease of repairs is more the issue than getting break neck speed out of the engine? I have heard they are almost give aways at many wrecking yards, but I am trying to find the best year model that would likely be easiest found and parts changed as necessary. I hear the 20R has a round intake and exhaust that is more desirable than the 22R. What year model Corolla would offer the best choice for this cruiser application? Is there any year model without all the computer gizmo stuff or is that something I'll just have to take as a given? Anyone have some good engine pics to share?

    Again, this is not meant to end up as a cookie cutter street rod, so this engine may not be what a traditionalist street rodder may want to envision, but it will work for me. Any tips on sites that may be helpful?
    Thanks,
    Coupe1942
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Manuals are a little stiff at times when brand new, but this should go away soon - if not, back to the dealer! What exactly do you mean by "very hard to put"? Do you have to put in neutral, release clutch, then engage clutch and try again, or what???

    What do you mean by "raise the clutch pedal", and why would you want/need to?

    Again, please more detail.
  • jean70jean70 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    When going from 2nd to 3rd, I have to stop in neutral one second (without releasing the clutch) and then go on 3rd.
    For 3rd to 4th or 3rd to 2nd there is no problem.
    From 4th to 5th I just have to go very slowly.
    There is no carpet below the pedals.
    I thought that tightening the cable would make things easier: don't you think so?
    Jean
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Member Posts: 48
    Are you putting your foot all the way to the floor every time you shift? Maybe trying only 3/4 on the way down and see if that helps it any. Or you can try to double clutch it and see if that does anything but you shouldn't have to in a Corolla. I'd take it back to the dealer if I were you.
  • jako1jako1 Member Posts: 23
    My fender is damaged, I am thinking of buying one and painting the fender myself to match the current paint. Anyone has tips or a process that I should follow to Paint. Its a 98 Corolla and I was thinking of buying from Shucks/Napa.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    If it happens everytime, then take it to dealer.
  • jean70jean70 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    Yes, I put the foot all the way, this is why I thought that adjusting the pedal would be easy to see if there is an effect, but I have not found the Haynes for the Corolla.
    So you think it is not related to the clutch but has something to do with the gear box itself ?
    I am on holiday at the moment, but I'll try to go to the garage asap.
    Sincerely,
    Jean
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Member Posts: 48
    When you take it back to the dealer they'll have a tech drive the car with you to see what the problem is. If they have to keep it just make sure you insist on a free loaner car. Just tell them that the car shouldn't be doing that and you want it fixed. If you feel like they're trying to screw you around or anything it doesn't hurt to get a bit nasty with them. And this is coming from a guy to got asked to leave a dealership yesterday while shopping for a car with a friend of mine. Yes I was able to tick off the sales manager/salesman that bad....lol
  • marcela112marcela112 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    The solution this problem is have the charcoal canister change. The canister has two purge valves to take the guess of know with one just replace the canister it comes with the 2 purge valves. The part # 77740-02102 for corolla 2000. once you call the dealer you will see they have it in stock they tell me this purge valves go bad on corollas.

    The charcoal canister is located by the fuel tank under the car. It looks like a back shoe box with hoses coming out of it. To reset the check engine light do it with the hand held machine or just unplug one of the battery terminals.

    The cost of the canister is around $250. this is a dealer part.

    Mike
  • ed6544ed6544 Member Posts: 6
    help needed. have a 99 corolla with dash lights (all instrumentation, radio, ac controls, even auto tranny indicator) that have totally gone kaput.
    any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.

    thanks.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Sounds like it might be a fuse. Have you checked them all?
  • ed6544ed6544 Member Posts: 6
    thanks for the reply.

    i did check the fuse.
    my brother uses the car, it turns out the (rheostat?)
    light intensity dial for dash lights was turned all the way down. (problem now solved).

    another question - that part of the instrumentation light on the rightmost side (the fuel gauge) is totally dark.
    might be a light bulb.
    has anyone had any experience replacing that light bulb?

    thanks.
  • boilermaker1boilermaker1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Corolla with 28K miles and an automatic transmission. I was looking through the maintainence book the other day to see when I should change the fluid and filter and found nothing. Is there a recommended mileage for which to change the transmission fluid? Or is this thing good for life?
  • nightattacknightattack Member Posts: 16
    There is no real recommendation (in the maintenence book) when to change the fluid. My 2005 auto Corolla also has 28K miles. I trying to find out if the transmission fluid needs to changed or flushed. Any Ideas out there?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    For older Corollas, I think the maintenance section of the owner's manual says to drain and fill the automatic transmission every 30k miles.

    Even though Toyota makes bullet-proof automatics (just like the rest of the car), automatics are still the weakest link of a car, and they cost a fortune to fix if they fail. (This one of the many reasons I drive a manual tranny!) With this in mind, I would still drain and fill the tranny to be on the safe side - at a dealer, it is about $45 to do this.

    If you get this done somewhere else, make sure to use ONLY the correct Toyota fluid!!!

    Also, I would not do a transmission flush - check around the net for horror stories!
  • tttoytttoy Member Posts: 3
    92 Corolla died while just driving it in a parking lot. If ignition switch was turned to START it would start and run, even rev, but after releasing it to ON it dies. Took to Toyota dealer, they couldn't get any diagnostics output. Said there was power into the ECU but nothing coming out. They doubted it was the ECU since they say they never go bad. After 3 days of troubleshooting and not finding any problems they decided to start swapping parts and replaced the ECU with a used one. They said that fixed it. After driving it away from the lot and about 5min from home it died again doing the same thing. I assume ECU has died again. What could be causing this?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ignition switch... was that checked? ;)
  • tttoytttoy Member Posts: 3
    Yes, sorry forgot to mention I replaced that before I took it to the dealer. Thx
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    why did you replace the ignition switch prior to bringing it to the dealer?

    you know odder things have happened, but it's possible to have an original go bad, and a replacement to be defective.
  • tttoytttoy Member Posts: 3
    All the info I could find from online and a mechanic friend of my father-in-law was pointing to the ignition switch. I thought I could save some money and fix it myself but decided to take it to a dealer when that failed. :(

    Yes, I'm thinking of getting another used one this weekend and see if the 3rd try really is a charm.
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    I changed ATF at 30,000 miles and it was gray and with a small amount of particles. I would strongly recommend doing it. It's very easy as there is no need to drop a pan. The only issue is cost: the toyota T-iV fluid is $5 a qt at dealership. It takes 3.5 qts.
    Corolla is designed as low maintenance car and can easly go 100,000 miles with no ATF changes. But, some of us want to keep the car longer.
  • khudflykhudfly Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2001 Corolla with 39k miles. It is a manual transmission. The last time I drove it (almost all highway) when I let off of the accelerator the valves (at least I think it is the valves) make a very loud clatter until engine RPM gets to idol.
    It will make the same noise while parked when the RPM's start dropping after revving the engine.
    It has plenty of oil and the oil light is not coming on.
    Could the oil pump be starting to go out or the screen is clogged with sludge, debris, etc...?
    Please help...last thing I want to do is pay for an engine tear down after purchasing the car...sadly with no warranty.

    Thanks,
    Khudfly
  • jnbrendajnbrenda Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes out of nowhere, when I turn on my 2003 Toyota Corolla, I hear a beeping noise, just like when you turn on your turning signal. Then the little blue light on the left side of the wheel starts blinking. The beeping won't go away all day. Then the next day it disappears. This has happened like once a week since I got it 3 weeks ago. I haven't installed an alarm yet. Someone told me that it's because it comes with a factory alarm..could this be it?
  • ryanburbridgeryanburbridge Member Posts: 1
    with the key off press and hold the trip reset button. turn the key to the on position (do not start engine) while still holding trip reset button. you will see dash marks count down(-----) to zero dashes. the light is now reset.

    hope this helps

    ryanburbridge
  • baltychenbaltychen Member Posts: 50
    Hi, need help.

    My driver side and passenger side window will drop 1/2" to 1" by themselves when I start to crank down the windows. The dealer said it is normal.

    Anyone has the same problem?? Thanks.
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