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http://www.alldatadiy.com/
It's also possible that your local public library will have a repair manual, maybe on CD, that will give you step by step.
Most fan motors take a while to dig out, but it isn't technical. All nuts and bolts stuff and knowing the sequence of disassembly and how to unclip various things.
You could also ask your Toyota dealer what the labor is, in hours, to do this, and then double those hours for yourself doing it.
another thing that comes to mind is a door lock with a bad (i.e. shorted) contact that is tricking the module into thinking you are requesting door unlock with the key.
or there is a bad unlock button in one of the doors.
or the module is bad.
look, if you've pulled all the plugs in the door control module (is that the thing that receives the signal from the FOB?), perhaps its possible the solenoid for one of the doors is constantly receiving the command to unlock, either through a broken door switch (and I mean this could be the keyswitch in the door), or the lock/unlock button on he door or some short downstream of the control module, but upstream of the solenoid itself.
you need to determine if its the remote system or one of the switches.
i don't think you've ruled either out at this point to narrow down your search for a root cause.
good luck.
I have a 95 Corolla with 69,000+ miles on it and for 2 days, it died once each day but would start right back up. Now it starts but when given the gas its dies. No one seems to know or has ever had this problem before.
Anyone out there had this?
Thanks
jkowboy in Dallas
they are cheap to replace (some even try to clean theirs, but at less than 10.00 i think, you can't go wrong slapping a new one in. you might want to test yours.
google
PCV valve oil consumption
would appreciate any help
kevink
This time it stayed on the whole week and the dealer had to replace the onboard computer. The dealer told me that he has been seeing several cases of this per month.
B/c the car is still under warranty, the procedure did not cost me anything, but I imagine it isn't that cheap out of pocket...
Intermittent problem are tough. Given the "suddenness" of the shut-off (no chugging, right, no sputtering, just DEAD??) and the temperature-sensitive nature of the defect, I'd suspect a fuel pump relay.
I have Toyota Corolla 2005 XRS.. Bought it as salvage vehicle.. It runs tho.. But..
I have a folowing problem that i got to fix. And i dont know how. When it drives, it locks the pads and all the wheels.. Sometimes it happens when i drive 5 min.. Sometimes i can drive 30 min. I dont know what it is. I checked all pads and brake fluid in shop.. Everything looks ok.. There is brake box loceted under the hood.. And it looks ok too.. What can it be? The only thing i know is that i have alarm system in the car.. And the light always blinking. Is it possible that security sistem diactivate my brakes? Or is it something else under the brake padle? Or is it some kinda computer that is bad? Please? Is anyone expirience this problem before or have any idias? Guys in shop havent seen that problem before, and they cant tell me what it is.. I dont know what to do..
Please give me any idias what to look for? Thank you for further responds..
If just ONE brake is freezing up, I'd look for a kinked or crushed brake line or one frozen up caliper
My Corolla needed new tires so I took it into a shop and had new tires put on. After I left the shop I realized that there was enormous slack in the emergency brake handle and the brake barely worked. This was very strange because when I took it in the "e" brake had a lot of tension and it worked just fine. The manager of the shop feels that this was impossible because nothing could have happened to the brake while they were replacing the tires. They begrudgingly did some adjustments. What could have happened? I have a bad feeling about this and I do not feel like using that tire shop again.
1990 Toyota E-Brake Cable
i think its just a workmanship/quality issue. granted, window still goes up and down.
I would appreciate any feedback from the expert community populating the corolla forum. Thank you.
Thanks for getting back to me.
I believe Mr. Shiftright is correct.
My daughters' Avalon had a bad brake booster that would try locking all brakes after driving for a while.
Although your car is newer,since it is a "salvage", who knows exactly what was damaged.
Toyota dealers weren't able to diagnose my problem,I did, and replaced it myself.
To test if this is your problem: Disconnect the vacuum hose that feeds the booster.
Plug it so there's no vac. leak.
Your brakes will work,just VERY hard to apply.
Allow plenty of stopping distance when test driving!!
If this proves to be the problem/solution,you'll know by checking the heat or lack thereof, emanating from brakes.
HTH.
Post if further help needed.
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What is to help?
The car is a 1990.
Time to say good bye.
Seriously,the cost of repairs is too great.
IF, you were to put used parts on ,you have no idea of their integrity.New-prohibitive.
At minimum,tie rod ends,control arm/ball joint,strut(s)and alignment.
Sell the parts and buy another.
Cheers,Jeff.