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Comments
I'd say, in my opinion, that coolant flush was not necessary, throttle body cleaning not necessary, trans flush not necessary. The rest doesn't look too bad.
The problem is that the "list" at 36K is not all mandatory. Some of it is optional, but they don't really tell you that.
Help please
To avoid surprises in the future, get friendly with your owner's manual and try a little library reading on the topic of auto maintenance and then start practicing the fine art of saying "No, thank you" when replying to a mechanic offering a service not included in the manual. I usually ask for an explanation of any extra service and unless I feel it's absolutely necessary, I decline it. Keep track of the "advice" and if you feel that it actually may be worthwhile get it done the next time or when you notice your car needs it.
p.s. you may want to find another mechanic, too.
So, does it have automatic headlights? My recollection, with most cars, when Daylight Running lights are on, you have no tail-lights on.
I don't get it.
On the other hand, my '07 Camry has an off switch to completly turn all lights off. The only hazard is you could accidently turn to off and not have any daytimes on.
Go to the site below hope this helps
Good Luck
MNF
http://www.toyota.com/corolla/features.html
I recommend skipping the dealer all together. Most of them can't cut a key right to save their life. First lubricate the locks with either WD-40 or TriFlow (my preference) and by all means don't use graphite. Next find a local locksmith (with a shop, this could be a hard task) and see if copying the key will cure the problem. If he doesn't think that will work after looking at the key ask about a code cut original key. If the keys aren't too badly worn he may be able to read the cuts and cut an original. If you can provide said locksmith with the key code number that will be most helpful. It is possible the dealer can provide you this number but the vehicle could be too old. Around here we go with a 10 year rule. If it's older than 10 years the dealer will not have it in their system with the exception of Honda. Your Toyota dealer may still be able to access it though so there is no harm in trying. If you were/are the original owner then it should be recorded on the paperwork somewhere along with the little metal tab given to you on the key ring. Last but not least the key code is also located on the passenger/right side door lock cylinder but you have to remove it from the car in order to see it. If you decide to remove the lock just take it to the locksmith and let him retrieve the code off of it.
Next if the the key fixes the problem but not completely ask the locksmith how much he will charge to remove the ignition cylinder and possibly the drivers side lock to repair them (usually the 2 most commonly used and troublesome on the vehicle). If he tells you that you will need a new ignition and or door lock (assuming you drove the vehicle to him) find a new locksmith because he probably doesn't work on these often or he is trying to get over on you (most locksmiths are very trustworthy you will find so I don't think this will be an issue) and you need someone whom is used to working on these from day to day like myself (sorry I'm on the east cost).
If after all is said and done and you can't drive it at all check into having a mobile locksmith come out. Make sure you call a company that is reputable and stay away from any locksmith whom is using a 1-800 number. Go for the companies that have the nice ad's and or have a shop. There are a lot of so called locksmiths out there taking advantage of our customers and most of them seem to be stemming from the 1-800 number ads.
Also you have the option of going to an independent shop to have these services performed. Just keep a written record.
These are pictures of the car.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/xsupan0va/100_2467.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/xsupan0va/100_2468.jpg
That's going to cost at least $750, maybe more, at least where I live. The dent has to be worked out, and the fender entire re-painted. Or a new fender ordered, primed and painted.
But regardless---usually it doesn't pay to make a claim unless you hit $1500 or so. Not sure you'd get that high with this repair. I'm thinkin' $600--$800.
You'd be better off getting your own estimate just to be sure you make the right decision.
Why would you say this? She has $750.00 deductible, so anything over $750.00 is money in her pocket to pay for her repair.
Of course, all this is generalization. It would depend on your insurance company and perhaps on you claim history. But it's risky making a claim for a low amount. It's still "a claim". I know this sucks, don't shoot the messenger :P
at 2pm, I parked my car in a local parking lot, when I came back to fetch the car around 7pm, the car won't start.
without plugging in the key, I can constantly hear the flickering sound ( as if came out from the direction lights )
I got one of my friends came to jump start the car with cables, the electric system seems fine, panel lit up, the radio is playing, but I can't hear any sound from the ignition, eventually the car still didn't start.
Can anyone assist me on the issue?
No Dave, that's not necessarily true. This day and age many people have what they call accident forgiveness or many other reasons why their insurance would nopt increase. Even if it would increase for this insured the increase would be minimal in comparison to the potential $750.00 "Mr. Shiftright" is suggesting that she puts out of pocket.
Insurance companies are about as predictable as a baby with a loaded revolver. They could put it down and go back to sleep or they could fill you fill of holes. You never know with these guys.
I've spent years trying to plot a discernible pattern to their behavior in various situations and I've never been able to do it. I've seen them write generous checks one day and the same company dig its heels in on paying an extra $500 on total loss and forcing arbitration--even THOUGH the arbitration costs them more than $500!!
Crazy? Yes, seems like it, but there you go.
See you there!
Would suspension be that loud inside car?
Dave
I'm going from memory.....
- with the ignition in powered on position (but engine not running), change odometer to trip A position,
- turn ignition off
- while depressing and holding the odometer reset button, turn the ignition back to the ignition on position. While continuing to hold the odometer reset button in, you should see the odometer bars countdown from 5 bars to zero bars (or it counts up from zero to five bars).
- turn ignition off.
The write up should be in your owners manual.
If the above (from memory) doesn't work, I'll go look it up for you when the vehicle gets back this evening.
Many auto parts chains will read the error codes for free, then search the internet on that error code.
Dealership or quality auto repair shop can obviously do all of that for you, and then repair/replace whatever things are bad until it is running correctly again. Get this problem checked out quickly, to avoid additional damage (depending what in your engine or transmission is currently bad right now).
Also is it ok if I mix a new coolant in old one? :confuse:
Do we get this OEM Toyota Coolant in Walmart or Canadian Tire ?