Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

1…7071737576

Comments

  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Absolutely not, in fact you could even replace them yourself if you so desired, as long as you keep all receipts from the place of purchase or the independent garage that replaces them for you.

    You don't need brake calipers already do you? I'm not sure, but that might even be a warranty covered part.
  • geodrivegeodrive Member Posts: 20
    Sorry for the confusion...
    No I don't need new Caliper...they are just going to service (oil and lubricate) the caliper while placing the new brake pads.

    Now the servicing of the Caliper is adding a good amount in the quotation...they just tried to freak me out saying that my break pads are good for nothing and it may hit the disc soon and then I will have to get the whole disc replaced....
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well they certainly could be worn to that point. You want to replace them now before they groove the rotors. But still, anyone will spray your calipers while they're replacing your pads, just ask them. Shouldn't cost you any more.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    If you said $430. for front brake pads , that is pure ROBBERY. The brakes pads cost approx $20 to $50 at most local auto stores, and many local shops install them for approx around $40. plus cost to turn or replace the brake rotos. which turning rotos cost around $15. better try a independent auto repair shop.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    edited May 2011
    For $430 I would expect new pads and rotors, plus a brake fluid flush.
    I would not expect the need for all this on a 2 y.o. car.
    How many miles on this car? Aggressive stop-and-go driving?

    Many shops insist on replacing rotors along with pads.

    Definitely get a second opinion at an independent, non-chain shop.
  • geodrivegeodrive Member Posts: 20
    For sure they are not including Brake Fluid Flush in this cost.
    I don't know if there is any standard of labor rates at the Toyota dealerships or not. They seems to put any random $$ figure for any sort of labor.

    I have 56000 Km on my car and have factory installed pads+rotors. I am definitely not an aggressive driver.

    I checked with Canadian Tire. They said 99$ for the brake pads and an other 99$ if I would like them to grind and level the rotors. My only concern is that I am not sure what type of brake pads will Canadian Tire use and how long will they last.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    edited May 2011
    Ask Canadian if they will let you bring pads from the dealer for them to install.
    They may even order Toyota pads for you.

    It's a good idea to change the brake fluid every 3 years, 2 if you've got ABS

    Has Canadian looked at the car to confirm your pads are really worn down?

    A Toyota dealership tried to convince me my (manual) transmission oil was dirty 2000 miles after I had changed it myself.
  • etho1416etho1416 Member Posts: 18
    Has anyone changed the transmisstion fluid on a circa 2005 corolla automatic by themselves? Was it hard?

    I have looked online and it looks pretty easy, though some folks recommend taking the pan off to drain extra fluid and get out the metal shavings inside. And others recommend doing a full flush. Any thoughts?
  • 4barrel4barrel Member Posts: 4
    It is a very easy procedure. I have a 2005 Corolla. I just drain the pan once a year and refill, it takes about 3-1/2 quarts. I have had this vehicle since it had 10k miles on the odometer, once I reached 60k I became curious and removed the pan. My conclusion after removing the pan was that it was a waste of my time as the metal screen filter did not need to be cleaned as it did not have any debris built up in it and the pan did not have any debris/metal chips either. My conclusion is that if the transmission fluid was reasonably maintained on a regular basis than there is no real reason to pull the pan. I recently purchased a 2003 Echo with 90000k miles on the clock which has a similar type trans as the Corolla. I do not know the history of the maintenance of this vehicle so my curiosity once again got the best of me and I dropped the pan. I had the same results as my Corolla; a metal screen filter with no build up of shavings/debris and a pan that had no metal debris. The rest of the vehicle's life with me it will just get a drain and refill every other year as this does not get driven much as my Corolla.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    My thouights are just do a drain and refill, don't remove the pan. I would do this at 40,ooomile intervals. It's just like changing the oil. I've heard of too many tranmission problems that occurred after a flush and refill.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Wow, unless you're putting on a ton of miles every year, a yearly automatic transmission fluid change seems like overkill. Manufacturer automatic transmission drain and refill recommendations vary from 30K to 60K to NEVER (if you have Dexron III).
  • science_man_29science_man_29 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I'm creeping up to the 90K mile mark on my 2001 Corolla. I got a quote from a mechanic in the area - he said it takes about 2 hours and will cost $300. Is this reasonable? How much did you pay for the 90K maintenance?

    (I'm sure I'll get suggestions to just do it myself for cheaper - but I don't have the equipment or expertise to do any of my own maintenance)

    Thanks
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    More information is needed.
    Please list the services the mechanic is suggesting.
    How does it compare to the list in the Owner's Manual?

    I would do only what's in the manual, with two exceptions:
    Change (don't flush) the transmission fluid/oil every 30k miles.
    Change the brake fluid every 3 years, or maybe 2 years if you have ABS.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I know this is not what you want to hear but I have an 2001 LE with 58,000 miles on it and all I ever do is change the oil/filter every 3000 miles and I drained and refilled the transmission fluid one time. At 60,000 I'll change the original plugs.

    This car as well as all of my Toyotas have given me excellent service and I don't do much to them. I just picked up a 2004 Tacoma to add to my stock. It's at the dealer getting a new frame put under it. I only had a small half dollar size whole in the frame due to premature rust and Toyota is putting a brand new frame under it at a cost to them of $11,000.00 I now have a 94 Voyager, 91 Miata, 01 Corolla, 09 Corolla and a 04 Tacoma.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    2004 Corolla has no timing belt, it has a timing chain which never needs replacement unless you do an engine rebuild.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Sir, first of all you can not see and inspect the timing belt unless you remove the plastic cover, and second I believe that year engine doesn't have a toming belt , it has a timing chain, which hardly ever needs replaced, Third you must have beem looking at the outter belts that are on the front of the engine, which rotate your Alt. air conditioning and etc. and if they needed replaced your dealer should have told you and asked you if you wanted them replaced, Fourth. if you where not there wait while they worked on your car maybe they tryed to get ahole of you and could no, to let you know and ask you if you want it done. And it is not neglect by them if you only had your car there to replace the water pump.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Can not inspect timing chain by removing the plastic engine cover.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Apart from the fact that this particular part doesn't exist on this model, I totally understand that failing to replace something ELSE on the vehicle puts a shop in a no-win situation.

    If they had recommended fixing/replacing parts that are at the end of their lifespan, the customers complain about constant attempts to upsell them on "unnecessary" parts and services - stuff that's not broken... yet. If they don't, then they're neglectful. The best way to avoid feeling either end of the spectrum is to establish a relationship with a shop you trust.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • tampagrl629tampagrl629 Member Posts: 2
    I got into an accident yesterday and my right wheel hit the curb when i ran off the road. my front tires are facing inward my rear right tire is also facing inward. I already know i need a new wheel and tire for the front right and I was told the axle hit my frame he could tell by the way it was bent, so im guessing i need a new axle the part that holds my wheel to the azle is all bent and loose.. im trying to figure out if my insurance would total it or not. my car was 12k when i bought it in sept. and i know when u drive it off the lot the value is decreased. Does anyone know if my damage and if any damage that cant be physically seen might make total it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh I doubt they'd total it. Sounds like you're going to need, aside from new tires and wheels, a rear axle spindle or perhaps a new rear axle, which is a pretty simple affair on a FWD car---the rear axle is basically just a straight tube and holds the wheels one.

    The tricky part is assessing how much front suspension damage was done---perhaps upper and lower control arms, maybe even subframe....but still, your car is worth north of $12K or so, (depending on mileage, condition and history) and therefore I can't see a total here, especially since there appears to be no body damage.

    Modern frame machines, in the right hands, can make a car as good as new.
  • tampagrl629tampagrl629 Member Posts: 2
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    good luck. Let us know what the estimate is.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    I just recently bought a 2010 Corolla and I love the car. Easy to park, comfortable, great mpgs, etc. However, I have a quick question regarding the steering. I don't have a problem with the EPS (I don't think) because I don't notice a need to over-correct the steering at high speeds at all with the car. However, at speeds under 15 mpg I hear the steering wheel a lot. There's no buzzing or clicking or anything. I just hear the steering wheel whirr whenever I turn it at under those speeds. I don't hear the steering wheel moving at all in my sister's '06 Civic or my mom's '10 Legacy. Is it just the electric power steering or something?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Yes, this is the electric power steering.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    In the traditional power steering system the pump is the only spinning component, and it's separated and some distance from the steering column and passenger compartment.
    So you won't hear it unless something is wrong.

    However the electric motor is near or on the steering rack or column.
    So it's harder to isolate the sound.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    Thank you all for your response! I hadn't noticed it until I drove my mom and she asked what the sound was!

    I have one more question. The car has been running fine (no lights on, etc) and I've filled up the tank 3 times since I bought it...34 (75%hwy/25%city, the highway miles including 4 other adults and AC on!) and 31 the next 2 fill ups (about 90%city/10%hwy) each time. Pretty impressive!

    Buuuut, there's a buzzing coming from somewhere by the driver side window. I have rolled down the window and although the sound isn't quite as noticeable, it's still there (I don't think it's related to the window, but I'm not sure). I've tried to isolate where the buzzing is coming from, but it's really only noticeable >40mph and it's hard to look at your B pillar at that speed for any length of time! It sounds like it's either coming from the B pillar area or right above the driver's side window. Any idea what might cause this, or should I see a mechanic?
  • james2011james2011 Member Posts: 12
    The button on the door panel that locks/unlocks the doors, depressed all the way down into the door the last time I locked it. I barely touched it, but down it went. It is not in warranty. What can be done that does not cost $$$$$ ?

    I can still lock it with the key Fob, but not by pressing on this as it is too far down.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    Hello again! Got another question...
    So I have a 2010 Corolla. I bought the car used as a previous rental with 9500 miles for under $15k a few months ago, which was a stellar deal at the time with used car prices being ridiculous. I don't have any lights on my dash, but I have a question about the brakes. I notice that when braking over uneven road (paved or unpaved) the brake pedal sometimes feels like it's shaking. I get the same feeling when braking suddenly. However it doesn't happen under normal braking (haven't gotten the chance to test it out on wet pavement). I took it to the dealership and they said the brakes were fine and that it is just the ABS system doing its job. Is this true? I have driven cars with ABS and I haven't felt the actual pedal vibrate before. Should I take it to a mechanic and get the drums/rotors checked out? I don't know how I feel about the Toyota dealership I bought the car from. I went back 2 weeks after I bought the car because of a rattle from the driver side seatbelt pillar (B pillar). They couldn't find the rattle. Went back again a month later and they said they found the rattle and repaired it but it's still there...
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    That is in fact the ABS system you are experiencing. Some cars are more sensitive than others. I've never experienced the ABS on my wife's 04 corolla but I do all the time in my truck. Tires and driving style can also play rolls in an overly sensitive ABS system. If they still put good years on that car ditch them as soon as you can.

    As for the dash lights have you checked to see if they got turned down? Sometimes while cleaning you can hit the knob and turn them off. My wife has done it a few times. If the adjustment knob is fine check the fuses.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I think they mean no dash warning lights for the braking system.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    I meant that I didn't have any lights on my dash to indicate that I had a problem with anything electrical (tire pressure, abs system, etc). The car has about 12,200 miles on it now, and I've already been looking at replacement tires for my car because yes, it's currently equipped with goodyears. I looked up reviews for these OE tires and they are absolutely horrible! I can't believe that they waste material making such crap tires...I also can't believe that Toyota could spend an additional like $40-80 and get 4 tires that are actually decent. I still have a bit of treadwear left on these tires, so there's no need to replace them yet. Otherwise I'm going with Kumho, Yokohama or I read some awesome reviews of a Hankook tire on tirerack as well. Michelins and decent Bridgestones are much more expensive....
  • hoppy13hoppy13 Member Posts: 1
    did you find out the problem..have a 1993 corolla also. when step on gas no pwer. email with answer if you hvae one....hopkins@molalla.net
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Yeah unfortunately I was reading it really fast on my phone and replying on the phone as well. I also need to make a correction the reason I've never felt the ABS on my wife's Corolla is because it's not present on her '04. However, with my Acura I've never experienced the ABS modulation even when I drive it hard.
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Yes unfortunately I misread your post. I absolutely hate Goodyear tires. From my observation most entry-mid level cars have crappy tires. I personally prefer Falken tires as a good inexpensive tire. We've been through a few sets on the Wife's corolla as I tend to change tires prematurely. Right now we have a set of Costco Michelin tires on it. If you get a rebate with them they're not too expensive. I also like Bridgestone (not the RE92's though), Pirelli and Yokohama's. I've never owned a set of Hankook but heard decent things about them and I absolutely hate Khumo tires. When Edgeracing.com was around you could get Falken tires for cheap. Now it seems like VulcanTire has the best prices and you can get the ZE-912's for $65 a tire.
  • debjeffdebjeff Member Posts: 9
    I have had a belt and tensioner replaced on my 2007 corolla. There are rattling noises (sometimes loud) under the hood. The air box vibrates profusely. No one can pinpoint the problem. This noise happens when the car is in drive position and idle (traffic light, stop sign, etc.) When in park, no noise.

    Can someone help me with this problem? Is the engine bad? I have had 2 computers replaced on this car.

    Help!!!

    Thanks.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    edited September 2011
    Could be a bad or loose motor mount.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    edited September 2011
    Agree on the loose or bad mount, especially because they would have removed the mount on the passenger side while they put on the new belt.
  • rose920rose920 Member Posts: 14
    My 1997 RAV4 makes the same noise on the passenger side and I had the tensioner belt changed in Feb. I mentioned it to the mechanic and they do not seem to hear it but it also does it when idling and occasionally when I am driving on the highway. It was very loud this last time. How does this get fixed? Or better said, as a woman, how do I tell the mechanic what the noise is?

    And while I am on the subject of being a woman dealing with mechanics (something I have writen about before and changed mechanics because of it), this new mechanic appears to have also taken me . I took the car in because of a leaking O ring that was not fixed by the previous mechanic. The car was also making a noise that they decided was my timing belt and that I needed a new one and a water pump. I told them that it had been changed in 2008 and was warranteed by Napa. They did not do business with Napa but I did not want to pay for another belt, etc. so I contacted Napa myself. (I used to pick up parts for my former mechanic a cousin who passed away and I knew everyone there). Cousin's death is why I have had to fine a new mechanic. Anyway, I was told not to pick up the parts as they would not know what it was till they took the car apart. You are going to love this! When I went to pick it up, they said they replaced the whole kit -belt, tensioner and waterpump to which I responded that I hoped that they had gotten the Napa parts because I did not feel that I should have to pay for them. Oh, says the mechanic, I was wrong. It was the problem, only the tensioner and proceeded to change the bill which still came out to $700, This mechanic was recommended by friends and a lawyer that I am associated with, Drove the car home and lo and behold, bad noise again and leak in driveway. Take it back. Examined again and showed the leak -- power steering fluid leaking -- another big bill. New noise --power steering makes noise when I start car until it wams up. Noise gets worse. Back to repair shop. Change power steering belt because it must have gotten oil on it when they "fixed the O ring". Guess what? Still leaking in my driveway and I have not gone back to him!!!
    In the middle of all of this, the muffler falls off. Also under warrantee so I ask Napa who I can take the car to and they recommend a kid who used to work for my cousin. I pay the labor charge, he turns in muffler and gets paid. It was a pleasant experience but the car is old and I am trying to hold on to it for awhile because I really love the car and can't afford a new one.

    So here I am with a car that still has the original noise and leak and I no longer know who to trust. How does a woman find a trustworthy mechanic and do any exist?

    I know the simplest thing to do would be to buy a new car if I could afford it but then it will start all over. I want to continue with the kid who fixed the muffler but I know he is not happy that he got involved in the muffler warrantee deal but why are things "warranteed" if you can't follow through on it?

    Sorry for the long post but I am sure you can appreciate my frustration. In the meantime, how do I tell the new kid that the motor mount is loose? He'll never believe that I am on this website. Actually he probably will. LOL
  • rose920rose920 Member Posts: 14
    Well I just found another post that I wrote back in May. #96 under Toyota RAV4 Battery and Electrical Problems. No one answered me there. I wonder if anyone will answer me on this one. LOL I'll bet if I look back further, I will find the one I wrote about mechanics pushing $499 package deals that must be done to keep car running properly -- an obvious money maker. I believe I wrote that one in 2009.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    You sound like you know a thing or two about tires to look for! I recently bought a tread depth measure, and the tires look like they have about 6/32nd left. I live in the Sierras, so we get snow about 3-4 days a year and lots of rain. I called up the Toyota dealership and spoke to a mechanic. He explained that pretty much the ABS/Traction control systems are reacting to the poor traction from the tires. This is on dry roads (both gravel/pavement). I can't go over a pothole on my gravel road at <10 mph without my pedal shaking. I've driven a Taurus, Legacy, Civic and Rav4 over this same road dozens of times without the ABS kicking on like that. It's unnerving. I'm wondering if I should go a few thousand miles or if I should replace the OE tires sooner? I think I'm gonna get a set of Michelin X Radials from Costco. Was also looking at the Pirelli P4 Four Seasons because they'd be a bit cheaper. Why don't you like Kumho tires?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Obviously new tires would be better in frequent snow, however, if your going to replace tires when they have 6/32 of an inch tread left on them, I hope you start saving your money. Average new tires used on cars typically start with 10/32" to 11/32" of original tread depth so you can see your tires have more than half of their life left yet. You'll be replacing tires often if you keep up this practice. Too bad you live in the Sierras, I'd buy those Goodyears off of you.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    I think the tires originally have 11/32" of tread, so I am over halfway through the tread at 12,400 miles when you factor in legally replacing the tires at 2/32". My concern is that if the tires have poor traction on dry pavement and gravel that's making my traction control control come on, what's gonna happen when it rains? We average about 60" of annual precipitation, which is really quite high so wearing the tires down to 2/32" would be pushing it so replacing them closer to 3/32" or 4/32" seems more plausible. That's probably about 5,000 miles left, or about 5 months for me. I think I might wait for the next deal on Michelin tires through Costco and do it then (current one expires in 3 weeks).
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    If it were me I'd change them now but then again that's just my preference. The Pirelli's are a nice tire as well. I wanted to get the HydroEdge w/Green X tires for my wife's corolla but they were on back order at the time and nobody had them in stock in her size. Costco can order them as well. The sidewall with the HydroEdge tire drops to a 60 versus the stock 65 and that will give you a bit stiffer ride with better tire feedback and less sidewall roll. Nothing crazy though and you might not even notice it. My reasoning for not liking Khumo's is based on past experiences. I'm not a fan of their compounds as they seem to be a hard tire and in the winter time traction was non existent and equaled me sliding into a curb at 15mph. There was no damage to the car itself other than the rim was bent so much it rubbed on the coilovers. After that I was really done with them. That was on an AWD Subaru Impreza. I limped it home and put the stock rims and tires on it. I was running an all season Khumo as well not a dedicated summer tire like I run on my current car.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    edited September 2011
    I read reviews of the Pirellis and they seem to have good handling, traction and warranty, although most post 3-5 mpg drops with them. Michelins seem to get rave reviews all around. The X Radials from Costco with the rebate isn't much more than a set of Pirellis installed elsewhere. I think I'm gonna call Costco up today and ask when the next deal on Michelin tires will be up again and wait a few more months. The HydroEdge was what I wanted most, but even on the Michelin website I cannot get them in the correct size. The X Radials get good reviews, probably very similar to the Harmony.

    I posted this in the Subaru forums with no feedback yet, but I'd like your $.02...My mom has a 2010 Legacy with the OEM Bridgestone Turanza el400-02 tires. Tirerack rates these tires last, with the poorest ratings all around. Last year I drove on 1-2" of fresh snow and the car slid! Kinda scary, considering she bought it for Subaru's AWD system. That was with 8k miles on the tires. They're at 19k now and have like 8/32" up front and 7/32" in back after rotating the tires. America's Tires will buy the tires off of her for like $20-40 each if she wants to trade them in for something better (which they recommend, and I was told pretty much anything is a step in the right direction). So I went on Tire Rack and there's a number of tires that get great reviews. On the more expensive side are the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity, Michelin Primaxy MXV4 and Goodyear Assurance ComforTred. On the cheaper side is the Yokohama Avid TRZ and the General Altimax HP, which is something America's Tire, Tirerack and a local tire place also recommended. Any input would be appreciated.
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Like I said in order to get the HydroEdge you will have to go with a 195/60-R15 instead of the stock 195/65-R15. It's really not a big deal and the tires will fit no problem. It just means the sidewall isn't quite as high and in all honestly the corolla can probably benefit from this.


    As far as the outback is concerned I'd probably go with either the Michelin MXV4's or the Bridgestone Turanza's. Seriously stay away from goodyears yuck! They're called goodyears because it'll be a good year if they last it.

    The nice pro to buying from Costco is road hazard,free tire rotations, and nitrogen. I tend to work on my own cars but my garage is a small 1 car and rotating tires isn't something I plan on doing in it. So having free tire rotations should ensure you get the most out of your tires.
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Where are you located? Have you thought about joining Angie's List? My wife's friend (single mother) went to a Merchant's near us. They took her but she had no idea other than suspicion. She sent home the receipt with my wife and asked me to look at it. After looking at it I came to the conclusion that they robbed her of over $1,000 for things they never even did. They charged her 2-3 times the amount the dealer charges for factory parts and yet they installed garbage. So the following day I called and talked to the manager and drove up to the Merchants where I met my wife's friend. I made a scene on purpose because they basically raped her. Do you know the idiot customers in there at the time still dropped their cars off with these robbers. I was baffled. At the end they agreed to refund her something like $1,100. It's sad that I had to do this for her but I was more than happy to do so. My best advice is find a friend that knows cars and ask them to go with you. That way you feel comfortable knowing that they aren't taking advantage of you. That and join Angie's List. If you're in the NoVA area I can point you to a few reputable mechanics that I do work for.
  • mani96mani96 Member Posts: 2
    Hi auto experts out there...I was quoted $2045.00 for the following repairs to my 2001 Toyota Corolla: transmission rebuild (for loose bearings = super loud grinding noise while I'm driving on the highway and in the higher gears when i'm slowing down and need to downshift), plus a clutch replacement and rear main seal repair. Does this sound about right to you? Any advice (or ribbing because I don't know anything about my car) is welcome. Also, the car tends to "miss" every 20 seconds or so while I'm driving...and sometimes almost dies while idling. The "missing" problem only started in the past couple weeks but the grinding sound in the engine has been getting steadily worse for about 6 months. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well this is one of those "while we're in there" type of repairs...since the transmission is coming out, and apart, it makes sense to replace not only the bearings (it's actually called a "small parts rebuild"), but the clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and to remove and resurface the flywheel (if needed). IN addition, there may be various coolants, belts, hoses, etc. that could need replacement....so yeah, I could see it running up to $2000, especially the labor, which is going to be most of the cost. It would be nice to fix the engine miss before you get into all this, though.
  • mani96mani96 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Mr Shiftright, this is good info.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    Hey thanks for all the help! I'm gonna look into changing the sidewall height on tires...but I think the X Radials will be fine enough and I don't have to go through the hassle of more research! The current Goodyears are just rubbish...I've noticed a decrease in ride quality and road noise in just 3k miles on the tires. Ridiculous waste of rubber.

    Since it seems like you know a bit about cars and tires I wanna pick your brain a bit more if you don't mind! Considering the current Bridgestones suck (EL400-02) on my mom's Legacy getting the Serenitys might be a hard sell but maybe I could talk to her into 'em. Either way, Costco alternates between Michelin and Bridgestone discounts. The Michelins are probably the best, but they are pricey. The BFGoodrich Advantage T/A and General Altimax HP get good reviews on TireRack and are like $200 cheaper than a set of Michelins. Any advice on those? I mean, is the price negligible considering the quality of a set of Michelins...?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles