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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

17071727375

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I haven't heard the term "DSL" for these solenoids. There are 3 of them, usually named S2, SL and SLT.

    Anyway, you have to remove the valve body from the transmission...if you are prepared to do that, I can list instructions, but really you should have step by steps with diagrams, and for that you should subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com for a year--it's only $26 bucks and you can consult it for any repair on your car for the coming year.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    $780.00 PLUS THE EXTRA INTEREST you'll be paying on that $13.00 for five years. Yeah, I think they got you pretty good. Extended warranty not needed on a Toyota.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    Regarding the obnoxious B-pillar rattle:

    I bought the 2010 Corolla with 9500 miles on it last summer (original warranty intact). I have brought it to the dealership 5 times for a rattle in the driver side B-pillar. I have also complained because I found that there was a dent removed from the driver side door and I was displeased with discovering several small bumps from the tool used to remove the dent. I have a feeling that the two are related somehow. When I was shown the Carfax the report was clean (no-accident history).

    My car has been at the dealership for over a week now and each time I call they say they cannot figure out the rattle. They can hear it, though.

    I'm starting to get rather worried. What are my options if they claim they cannot solve the rattle? Can I demand they buy the car back, trade it in for a similar vehicle, give me a good price on a trade-in...? I need to know because this is absolute b.s. and I refuse to accept an "irreparable" 2010 Corolla with an excessive and unnatural rattle I dropped $15k on (and bought new tires for!!) just a few months ago.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I doubt there's much you can do, since this type of defect wouldn't be covered under Lemon Laws, etc. I'd suggest taking it to a body shop. Dealers are generally lazy about things like this, nor are they motivated to spend shop time on it--- at best they send out a lot boy to hunt for the rattle for 15 minutes. The body shop might also be able to tell you if the car was seriously hit sometimes in the past (CARFAX often misses accidents). If THAT were found, then you'd have some good ammunition for a legal settlement.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    I don't know, but I have been with a rental Tacoma for over a week now while they've been trying to figure out the problem. They claim to be working with Toyota over the phone as well as having the shop foreman working on the vehicle. I'm trading the Tacoma for a Prius in this morning, so maybe they'll be more motivated to figuring out what the problem is. I don't want to drive the Corolla again until I get a straight answer from the dealership.

    If/when I get the car back and depending on the response from the dealership I'll take it to a body shop. I've been told a large dent was removed without re-painting it from the driver's door (odd that the rattle is coming from the driver side seatbelt pillar, no?) and now I have a feeling that the dealership avoided an accident repair/history by doing sub par and inadequate repair work. But we will see...all-in-all I'm pretty disgusted. If I was going to trade in the vehicle because of this I will have lost $4k in just the past 5 months plus what I'd need to spend on the vehicle I'd trade it in for. I shouldn't have irreparable rattles with a car that has less than 15k miles on the odometer.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Try another Toyota dealership.
  • windgracewindgrace Member Posts: 84
    So today I drove to the dealership and traded the Tacoma for a Prius. Prius had 3 miles on the odometer, heated leather seats, nav...highly doubt it's a rental but whatever.

    Got a call from the dealership a few hours later saying my Corolla was fixed. Apparently there was something amiss with the side curtain airbag that caused the rattle. I seriously hope they fixed the problem, I'll be picking it up tomorrow!
  • pegasus987pegasus987 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and are looking for used rims for the snow tires.

    What other years/cars use the same rims?

    I believe they are 15x6J rims and I was told by an auto salvage yard they are 5x4" bolt pattern.
    A Toyota parts department said the rims are the same as the 03-09 Corolla and 93-97 Celica.
    Then I read in your forum that they are 5x100mm bolt pattern...
  • cjl252cjl252 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 toyota corolla sport is making this loud humming noise that sounds like and exhaust leak. But it's not. I had the whole exhaust checked for leaks. Could it be a wheel bearing [non-permissible content removed]. I cant tell if it's in the front or the back while im driving. I just know it's loud as hell.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi
    I have the above car and always did timely oil change. Recently I picked it up from a shop where the bumper was being repainted. Upon leaving the shop i drove quarter mile and the oil light came up, and the temp gauge went up to about 40% (normally it is at 25%). I checked the oil and the dip stick showed very very low. So I added one and half quart and brought the oil level to slightly above normal level normal. However, the oil light still remained on and the temp. gauge continued to show at 40%. I slowly drove home about 6 miles away. Next day I towed the car to the dealer who, after inspecting told me that there may be too much sludge so it would be too expensive to repair. They would have to open the engine and then clean it out and reassemble. This would cost more than the value of the car.
    1)My question is how could the sludge build if I did regular oil changes?
    2) If I have them take off the oil pan and clean the screen would this help?
    3) Can anyone think of any way (besides dismantling the engine) to confirm that the sludge is the problem? If that turns out to be true than I will have to junk the car.
    4) I was wondering about foul play. The guy who had it for 3 days to paint the bumpers, was quite unhappy because I had insisted that he do the paint work again because the bumper color did not match the rest of the car. The car was in excellent shape and very well maintained, therefore I was puzzled this happened right after I left the body shop.
     
    T
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2012
    It's kind of hard to comment without some hard evidence. The best way to see if there is oil sludge is to remove the valve cover. Was this done? If not--if they just sniffed at it through the dipstick or something, that won't do. I'd certainly pay to have the valve cover removed while you're standing there and then you'll know the truth of it. If the sludge is really there, and it's incredibly thick and gooey and very extensive throughout the top of the engine, then that might be the end of the road, yes.

    But before making huge decisions like this you need really good verification.

    Typical oil sludge is shown here: notice how thick and black it is.

    image
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks Mr. Shiftright for your response. I will talk to the service guy about removing the valve cover. Its a good idea, wonder why they did not recommend that?
    Thanks.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Sir, after reading your post, I must say it sure sounds odd for this to happen right after getting your car from a shop. I have work on cars over 30 years and know alot the scams that go on. Do not remove your valve cover untill you do these test first. 1. Disconnect your positive battery cable from battery for approx 5 minutes then recoonnect it, and start your car and see if that stoped your oil light from being on. Doing that will cause your motor computer to reset alot of your motor settings, I know doing this works on resetting your engine check light, So its worth a try. 2. Drain your oil and inspect it for having a odd color and/or strange particals in it or being gummy.. If so than someone may have put something in your oil to make a bad effect on the motor. 3. Do a oil pressure test, its very easy to do, and if your oil pressure is proper psi. then theres nothing wrong with your engine oil pressure. And your oil light should not be on, if it is still on then your oil pressure sending unit could be bad or there is could be a clog right at where the oil reaches the oil pressure sending unit and stops the oil pressure unit from working correctlly which can cause your oil light to be on, So need to take out the oil sending unit .Its in the head or the block, ,just unscrew it out from the motor and crank the motor to see if oil shoots out the hole. And doing that may flush out the partical that could have been cloging it ,so the oil couldn't reach the oil sender unit correctlly..4. remove radiator cap and put a water tempenture thermometer in the radiator cap hole into the anti freeze, if can't reach anti freeze there , find a different place to let the thermometer touch the anti freeze like in one of the hoses or etc, So it will give you a reading. Start the motor and let it get to normal running temperture which is aporox 180 to 190 degrees for most motors, So if your thermometer reads correct then your dash gauge should not read hot. If it does your tempeture sending unit may be bad. So you need to do these test first because you can have sluge under your valve cover and your engine can still be fine and run ok with sluge. So just by removing valve cover and looking for sluge and cleaning the sluge.I don't think is going to solve the problem. If you had sluge I think you would have notice odd things happening with your motor and performence of your motor for quite a while not just it happening after you pick up your car from a repair shop. Pulling the valve cover and looking for sluge is just playing a guessing game, Do the test I mentioned and more testing from a good mechanic that knows what tests should be done, so you know the motor has proper readings and results. So your not playing a guessing game and know what needs done to solve this problem. Mechanic from Ohio.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Alex, I believe his car has the OBD-II diagnostic system, so disconnecting the battery won't reset his check engine light. He'll need the scanner to do that.

    I do agree with you though, that the repair shop's explanation doesn't sound right.

    Why do you think removing the valve cover is a guessing game? I mean, if you want to see sludge, what better place to find it?

    Actually I suggested removing the valve cover in order to challenge the diagnose of the repair shop. So let's put it this way---if there's no sludge in the valve cover, there still could be some in the oil pan (and how would the repair shop know that?) And if there IS sludge in the valve cover, than you know for sure there is sludge in the rest of the engine.

    So, given the "verdict" that his engine was no good, I think removing the valve cover will either verify the repair shop's diagnosis, or put them on the spot to do some explaining.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    I have a 98 corolla and deconnecting the positive battery cable for a few minutes, on my 98 corolla , works good to reset the engine light when it has come on, I have done this many times, and it works, And my engine light is no longer on, And I ask why at summit racing and was told when desconnecting the battery it makes the car computer reset the engine light, Sorry i sound harsh, but alot of toyota motors have sludge on the inside of valve cover and still run good like that, So if you remove the valve cover and see some sludge, I would call that more of a guess, because many motors that have sludge are still running ok with no problem, I have a 1993 camry with 270000 miles on it and it has sludge under the valve cover, And is still running I would say excellent. Yes it could be the sludge with his motor, but if it was I do not think it would have showed up after picking his car up from a repair shop, I think if it was sludge then his motor would have been acting odd for a while, and He even said he changed his oil regulerly so he should not have had much sludge. So why I still think its a guess about it could be the sludge if you see it under the valve cover, He said his oil light was on so he needs to have a oil pressure test first to make sure he has proper oil pressure. The End.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Also if his motor was not having proper oil pressure than that will make the motor run hotter because of low oil pressure, and he said his temperture gauge was higher than normal, So it makes sence to do oil pressure check first before pulling the valve cover to check for sludge.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes, thanks for the advice.

    Well that's why I posted the photo so he knows the difference between some dirty oil and real sludge. If his engine looks like that photo, that engine is done for IMO. I agree, I didn't want him to get fooled by just looking at a dirty valve cover.

    You can sometimes reset the engine light on an OBD-II car if you can drain the capacitor completely from the Stay Alive Memory module. (one trick is to hold down the horn button after you disconnect the battery). Otherwise, just disconnecting the battery and re-connecting it usually will not work on an OBD-II car.

    In any event, it's not a good idea to do this on an OBD-II car. For a mechanically minded guy like you, you can deal with the effects, but most people could end up making things worse for themselves.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Thank you mr. Alex 24 and Mr. Shiftright for your excellent responses. I am clearly impressed with your knowledge and willingness to help. I do recall the mechanic telling me that he did a pressure test and it was not good (Don't remember whether he said that there low pressure or high pressure but it was a concern)
    Yesterday I asked the dealer to take the oil pan out and clean the sludge (if any). Today i went to pick up the car and the mechanic had already left so I could not talk to him. However the service person told me that he cleaned out the sludge from the pan and the screen. He changed the oil and the oil filter then he took the car for a test drive and the oil light did not turn on. This is all I got from the service guy, of course its a second hand. This all sounded very nice to me. But i am going to talk to the mechanic and get all the details tomorrow. I did not pick up the car because I want to discuss the benefit of taking off the valve cover and look for the sludge.
    Being a lay person I am not sure (after reading all the posts from you both) whether I should have the valve cover removed or not. Or drive the car and see if and when the light comes on again.
    Thanks a lot for all your help.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Alex 24 and Mr. Shiftright
    I have done some searching on the net and came up with the following websites.
    I hope you all take some time to read the Toyota sludge website below.

    1)Center for Auto Safety - Oil Sludge http://www.autosafety.org/getcat.php?cid=28
    2)Dodge Durango sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_dur_oil.html
    3)Volkswagen sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/vw_sludge.html
    4)Lexus sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/lexus.html
    Hyundai sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/hyundai_sludge.html
    5) Toyota sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/toyota_engine.html

    The Toyota sludge website has numerous stories of Toyota vehicles having same situation as I had with my above ref. 1998 Corolla. They all have similar tales about oil light coming on and little or no oil in on the dip stick and subsequently the dealer telling them that the engine needs overhauling due to sludge.
    It seems that this is not uncommon for Toyota vehicles. My car being 14 years old had his problem so late in its life. The other anecdotes are with newer Toyota vehicles. I am sure my 14 year old car will not have any warranty claims.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep I'm sure Alex knows about the sludge issue. And That's why I posted that photo for you, because this issue does come up with Toyotas.

    I suggested taking off the valve cover to *verify* this claim of sludge. So far you have no evidence whatsoever that what they said was true.

    if we presume they did what they said---If they cleaned the oil pan and there's still sludge like in the photo up in the cylinder head area, well then nothing permanent has been accomplished.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi;
    Just want to give an update. As i mentioned above the dealer cleaned the pan, the pick up tube and the screen. He also opened the valve cover and cleaned the sludge. I am driving the car for the last 2 days and 50 miles and no oil light has come on, however the engine temperature stays at 40%. There are no guarantees, but i got some time to buy another car.
    The question i have is
    1) whether Toyota has solved the problem to trust them and buy another Toyota?
    2)Have you heard of failures in 2011 or 2010 model Corolla?

    I have posted the same question under the new topic, 'excessive oil use'. Hope to catch most responses.
    Thanks
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    When you say temperature is about 40% that sounds perfect? In other words the temperature gauge is just about half way up, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well my understanding is that Toyota re-designed the engines somewhat and also emphasized the use of synthetic oils....I think that basically, for whatever technical reasons, the oil in these engines would break down sometimes, under certain conditions. It's not like every Toyota engine does this, but enough of them did to create quite a ruckus.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Terceltom
    Yes the temp. gauge is at a little less than half way. Before the problem started it was at around 25%. I do not have oil light but the temp. gauge is higher. I am checking the oil level and does not appear to be losing oil. There still may be some problem.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi;
    As i mentioned in the update above that i am driving my 98 Corolla and the oil light has not come on, but the engine temp. is still at 40% mark (previously was always at 25%). I was wondering if I should change the thermostat, and see if the engine temp. comes down. Thermostat should not cost much.

    Appreciate your comments.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    I recommend changing the thermostat and radiator cap every 5 years on a daily driver.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You don't want the engine running too cold. That might have been part of your problem. If the heat gauge is well in the "normal" range, that's good. The hotter an engine runs, the better (within limits of course). Cold engines will sludge up. Just ask any boat owner about that!

    I'd recommend finding a radiator thermometer to see what the actual coolant temperature is. Could be your gauge is not accurate, too. Nothing wrong with running 190-210 degrees.
  • parthanon1parthanon1 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks circuitsmith and Mr. Shiftright for your responses.
    Regarding the radiator thermometer should be easy to find. Do i run the engine for a cerasin period and then read the radiator fluid temperature and if it is 190 - 210 F, should consider it to be OK?
    Just want to clarify.
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you can find infrared thermometers for $15--$35. These are safer and more accurate than an analog thermometer. I think they even sell thermometers built into the radiator cap on eBay but I have no idea how good they might be.

    On some cars you can read coolant temperature through the scan tool.

    As for temperature, under pressure most cars seem to run about 190--210.
  • bigdre6468bigdre6468 Member Posts: 2
    im having the same problem as #638 my charge and brake light stays on while the car is running once you turn the car off it wont start back up it makes a click sound now 7 days ago i was told to replace the starter i did that and the car was back to normal,now i am having problems with the transmission not shifting into gear i have a big leak,now does my tranny,my starter,has anything to do with the charge and brake light staying on? the battery is good and the altenater is good,help me resolve,my problem....
  • bigdre6468bigdre6468 Member Posts: 2
    mr shiftright@edmunds.com can you please help me #3829 charge and brake light stays on while engine is running...
  • blue2000blue2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 corolla with about 140k miles. the engine light goes on, usually reading P1349 code. my mechanic changed the solenoid and a couple sensors, but the light goes back on on. my question is that I thought once the engine light goes on, it stays on until it is cleared by connecting to a computer. over the past 1500 miles, the light goes off and on, sometimes even when the car is driving. sometimes the light goes on after I driven a few miles, and sometimes it stays on for a couple hundred miles. then it goes off by itself. any clues would be appreciated. the engine runs fine, burns maybe a quart of oil every 1000 miles, and gas mileage seems about the same.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    Could be a clogged screen in the VVT-i actuator.

    More info:

    http://www.toyotapart.com/M.I.L._ON_DTC_P1349_-_VVTi_ACTUATOR_T-EG009-03.pdf

    http://engine-codes.com/p1349_toyota.html

    You may have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer.
  • skeeter11skeeter11 Member Posts: 33
    Just purchased a 2012 Corolla S 5 speed. Regarding the brakes, I am noticing a "sound" coming from the right front of the car when I release the brake pedal. It sounds like something is not releasing properly. Dealer says this is normal for this car as they compared it next to another corolla. Conclusion is the sound is the "master cylinder resonating." Anyone know what this means and is this considered normal or can it be an issue with the braking system?
  • ssshahssshah Member Posts: 2
    There could be a couple of things (1) put the car on the jack where you noticing the voice is coming, park it neutral apply brake then come outside and try to spin the wheel with your hand and notice is the wheel is running jam if not, brakes are ok, if running jam can be brake pads, try to clean them another thing while you spinning the wheel voice still coming then there might be iron sheet behind the rotor sometime touch, because it is sensitive it can be move back with fingers or screw driver.
  • sjareasjarea Member Posts: 49
    What do you mean by compare? Did they inspect your car?(aka put it on a rack and pull the tire off?) If not, take it to another dealer and tell them you want it inspected.

    I would have to think if it were 'normal' you'd find more info on the net about this issue. The fact you had to post here about it IMO means you got something going on an should figure it out.
  • patflomarpatflomar Member Posts: 2
    My girlfriend has a 2001 Toyota Corolla which has developed the following intermittent fault re which I have not yet identified the cause

    Whilst driving in a straight line, when I start turning the steering wheel to the left sometimes the radio dies and when i attempt to return the steering wheel to its original position it refuses to turn back and the car continues to turn left. turning off and on the engine eliminates the problem for a while but it happens again intermittently.

    Thanks
    PAt
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited September 2012
    Sounds like a steering pump failure about to happen or maybe a stuck valve in the steering rack is causing the pump to jam ???

    Once the pump jams up, the engine will start to stall because of the drag from the inert pump belt on the engine pulleys.

    Check your p/s fluid!
  • makismakis Member Posts: 8
    Hello,

    I recently went to a Toyota dealership for my maintenance for some minor issues, and decided to have the multi-point inspection done. Car has been driving well, and have done all maintenance religiously, incld oil changes, freq tire rotation, alignm. etc. Surprise - I was recommended to to the following ( due to some leaks):

    water pump
    valve cover
    intake gasket
    BG fuel
    battery (already changed last year)
    plugs
    BG transm

    I browsed the forum, and some rec changing the water pump and transmission belt at 130k miles. I took the quote to a neighbor of mine who owns a repair shop and he said if the car is fine, don't do anything at this time. Please let me know what your recommendations are since I am concerned and do not want to pay 1500 in those repairs, unless absolutely necessary.

    Thank you much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    here's my two cents, as best I can do without viewing the car itself.


    water pump -- easily diagnosed with a coolant system pressure test--it's either leaking or it ain't.

    valve cover -- based upon what? Oil leak? How bad? could the valve cover be gently snugged up by tightening the bolts carefully (not too much!)?

    intake gasket -- if this were leaking, the car would not be running well--rough idle.

    BG fuel --upsell, forget that

    battery (already changed last year) -- a battery shouldlast 5 years. If your battery hasn't been "load tested", then nobody actually knows its condition.

    plugs -- if it's time to do them according to the book, then okay.

    BG transm -- I never recommend additives in the transmission.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I currently have three Corollas and have had others in the past; that is why I never had my cars in the garage unless there was an obvious problem. Those dealer checks are just a racket for them to make money. It's a Toyota ! It doesn't need all that crap or extended warranties for that matter.
  • patflomarpatflomar Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply, one element continues to stand out ie the electrical element its as though when the steering jams there is a power drain caused by an electrical issue. As far as I am aware the non of the parts you mention include electrical components, unless they are impacting on one of the steering sensors
    Thanks again,
    Patrick
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well your original comment seems to imply that the engine keeps running while this is happening, so I didn't mention a power failure to the ignition.
  • makismakis Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for your input, and detailed message. It really helps. I will follow those steps.
  • makismakis Member Posts: 8
    That is so true! You are right, I should be more careful from now on. If it's not broken, don't fix it! Thank you.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    We just bought a used 2011 Corolla for our daughter. It only had 10,700 miles on it. The only downside is that it had roll-down windows (shocked to find these on a 2011 model year of any car) and all manual door locks (also amazed at this).

    I know that converting to power windows will be a huge expense, so I am not so worried about that. However, does anyone know how costly it would be to convert the car to electric door locks with a remote? On some cars I have heard they are nearly or fully pre-wired for such conversions.

    Can anyone provide any help on this?

    Thanks!
  • elizachristineelizachristine Member Posts: 1
    Hey did you ever figure this out? I am having the same problem and trying to find a solution. I know it's a couple years late!
  • hoopitup2000hoopitup2000 Member Posts: 46
    edited August 2013
    Is it OK to leave the battery unhooked for 12 or so hours on an 05 Corolla? Took my battery out & can't get a new one till tomorrow. Any need to worry?

    Thanks
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    no problem at all.
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