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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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    mano2mano2 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for your answer. I wrote to you more "over there".
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    The Toy Corolla shop manual states the cause as either a bad fuel pump/circuit or a faulty Air Cond switch.
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    jersey391jersey391 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 1998 Corolla and I can here a ticking noise coming from the engine. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it's a normal sound for Corolla's. Is this normal?
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    wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    Do you only hear the noise after you stoped your car and turned off the engine? Not while you are driving, and the ticking noise goes away after a while?

    If your noise fits the discription, then there is a good chance it's just the car cooling. And that's normal.

    If you hear a knocking noise when driving, or with your engine on. Then I would say you need to take it to a mechanic for a check.

    Good luck.
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    pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: (chipzz) Fri 21 Apr '00 (08:13 AM)
    I'm getting a whine from the rear end of my '92
    Corolla 4wd wagon I bought last yr. Toyota dealer
    mech said probably differential, $200.just to
    open it up to assess problem, then big bucks if
    differential replacement. I noticed a slight whine
    when I test drove, Toyota dealer mechs examined
    and gave it A-1, AOK, "go ahead and buy it",seems they didn't test drive it, now I'm facing big bucks, cause I assumed the whine was normal for 4wd, but noise now seems louder and I want it fixed. Called junk yard for diff., they have the part for $300. (I hear new diff. can cost 1000+?Any advice, similar problem of this model/year?


    Any suggestions for chipzz?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
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    averydennisaverydennis Member Posts: 1
    I purchased new a 1993 Corrola LE that now has 110,000 miles and is in still good shape. When I first got it I complained that there was a ticking. The dealer told me it was normal for the Corrola. One hundred thousand plus miles later the car runs great and I can only say good things about it. I travel often and get to try out many rentals of the same class and can can honestly say that Corrola is the best of all them. And that includes even the foreign models. As for the american cars, they just feel like junk.
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    dbz1dbz1 Member Posts: 1
    I got my 93 corolla from a toyota dealer not long ago. It has about 103k on it. I found it shakes slightly even on quite smooth roads, and this is more obvious when turning or braking. But it runs ok on highways. Anyone can tell me what the reason might be? Thank you.
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    pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: 1988 Toyota Corolla Charge warning light problem (randell) Tue 25 Apr '00 (08:44 AM)

    Hello --

    My trusty 1988 Toyota corolla LE Sedan has just
    started having a problem where the 'charge' and
    'brake' warning lights are both staying on after
    starting the car (they are next to each other in
    the console display).

    Anyway, I removed the instrument panel, did not
    find any shorts or anything. The fuses called out
    in the Toyota service repair manual look okay, as
    well as the wiring...continuity checks okay. The
    alternator appears to be charging fine, although
    admittedly I have not checked everything as the
    regulator is built into it.

    The only thing that seems funny to me is that
    according to the electrical diagrams, both the
    'charge' warning light and the 'brake' warning
    light are connected via diodes on the ground side
    to the 'charge' 7.5 amp fuse (which is okay as
    mentioned above). Removing this fuse does not
    change the problem, although when I apply the
    brake I hear a solenoid of some kind clicking in the engine compartment. I have not figured out which solenoid is the one making the noise, and this may be irrelevant, but it seems strange to me, as no solenoid noise is heard when the fuse is there.

    Any ideas or pointers would be most appreciated.

    Ken Randell


    Any ideas about Ken's problem?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
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    vileplumevileplume Member Posts: 3
    i used to drive a circa 1990 corolla and it would sometimes emit the same smell. i read somewhere once that it was due to a problem with the fuel injection. it seemed to me that the smell wouldn't come if i went easy on the acceleration, especially when using the car for the first time in the morning. hope that helps.
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    Question for all 98 & newer Corolla owners... Are
    there 2 very small springs holding the c-ring of
    the rear cup holder (one on each side) located in
    the center console (2K Corolla CE). I noticed only one spring on the right side when it is pulled out (it does not pop it cleanly) or should
    there only be one spring on the right side. I've
    checked the shop manual but unfortunately, it does
    not have a blow-up of the center console. Thanks
    all for any replies back. I've addressed this earlier #448 in another townhall Toy topic. No answer to date.
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    bpotter1bpotter1 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 90 Toyota Corolla GT-S that has a fuel pump that works sporadicly. What will happen is that when I try to start the car sometimes it works and others the engine cranks over as if no gas is even getting to the engine. If I wait 5min to an hour and try to start the car again it will start. Once the car is started there are no problems at all, only when I'm trying to start the car do I have trouble. I took the car to a mechanic but they can not figure out the problem unless the car is not working. Every time they tried to start the car it has worked. Also, I verified that the problem is the fuel pump because when the car would not start I disconnected the fuel supply line(with the keys in the ignition) to the injectors and it was dry as a bone. Does anyone have an idea on what the problem might be? Electrical? Fuel pump?
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    bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    Two questions? First, does your vehicle have an electric or mechanical fuel pump, and second, how many miles does it have on it?

    I had an older model Corolla with a mechanical fuel pump that developed a slight hesitation when I accelerated, despite having tuned it to a gnat's whisker. One day it stopped on my wife, I towed it home, got a fuel pump in case I needed it, and started diagnosing the problem. Initially I removed the fuel line from the filter, filled it with fuel, and it started and ran fine until it burned the fuel out of the line. I knew it didn't have a firing problem, so I repeated the process, but while it was running reattached the fuel line to the fuel filter to see what would happen, and it continued to run. Test driving it, though, the engine just died. I went home, got the fuel pump, put it on, and that cured both the bogging and the intermittent running. In this case, I think I had a valve in the fuel pump that was leaking some and stuck intermittently. Replacing it solved both problems. This car had 100,000+ miles on it. Later I moved about 50 miles from my office and wanted to be certain I didn't break down going to and fro, and as a preventive measure changed the mechanical units out on vehicles once I got to 100,000 miles and had no further problems.

    Now, however, the fuel pumps are electric, last far longer, and cost far more than the mechanical ones. I have never had a problem with an electric one, but they do fail. I have a '92 Tercel now that has 164,000 miles on it, and still has the original electric fuel pump in it. It is the first I have ever had with one, and I dropped by the Toyota place once I got my usual 100,000 miles on it thinking I would do the same preventive change, but the service manager said he had never had one go bad, and the parts man gave me a price of $160.00+ for it. The combination convinced me to leave it alone, and it is still going.
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    bpotter1bpotter1 Member Posts: 2
    The fuel pump is electric-submersible. When the car was acting up I tested the electrical line to the pump and no power was getting to the pump. So right now I'm thinking the problem might be with the relay or CPU?
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    wsommarivawsommariva Member Posts: 157
    That is sulfer you are smelling. I have the same thing on my 2000 Jetta. My dealer said that the cat converter needs to burn it out - may take 15,000 miles. That was the dealer. Others claim that the cat converter may be faulty. I have the smell on humid days like you and not all the time. Basically I have the dealer investigate when I take it in for oil changes and they note on the repair order that there is no problem. When I have it inspected in 18 months I'll see if I pass or fail. Here in NJ the emissions test is very strict. If I fail for sulfer, I'll have the dealer fix it.

    william_sommariva@ascap.com
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    reneehoguereneehogue Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla sedan. I am having trouble getting it started. Its like it just not connecting. It will at times but you have to keep at it awhile. We just had a tune-up. Do you think it is the fuel pump? How much does the fuel pump cost? Where is the carbuetor? Please help me if you can. Thank you.
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    mazda323mazda323 Member Posts: 66
    When you turn the ignition, what exaclty happens? Does the engine turn over at all? Does it makes any other weird noises (like a clicking sound or a grinding sound)? BTW, your car doesn't have a carburator; it's fuel injected.
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    tarmantarman Member Posts: 12
    The timing belt broke on my 1990 Toyota Corolla DX sedan last week. After having the belt replaced, my car broke down again several days later. After ruling out a possible faulty belt, my mechanic believes that one or more of the valves may have been damaged. After reading the posts here, I'm under the impression that the Corolla has a non-interference engine. If so, could the valves/cylinder head/or pistons been damaged any way? Visual inspection hasn't revealed anything...the cylinder head is being sent to the machine shop right now for a more precise diagnostic test. If it is one of the valves, then my mechanic quoted the repair job at $800--$180 for the new valve, $200 for the head gasket, and $400 for labor. Is this in the ballpark (the parts seem expensive to me--carparts.com lists the head gasket at around $40)? Could the problem be anything else besides damage to parts w/in the cylinder head? Any advice/help is appreciated,
    Chris
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    Does anyone have problems w/ 2000 Corolla sandrift paint chipping off after very light impact with road debris on the hood? What about doors bumping lightly on the side of stuff? Thx.
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    johnyoojohnyoo Member Posts: 18
    Hi,
    I was wondering if anyone knew any good dealerships/repair shops in the Long Island Area around Commack that has reasonable prices.

    Just got a quote for $170 for 15000 mile service. Want to take care of the car but it's hurting the wallet a little too much.

    Thanks
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    mazda323mazda323 Member Posts: 66
    The 1990 Corolla with the SOHC 1.6 has a non-interference type engine. The 1990 Corolla with a DOHC 1.6 has an interference type engine. I belive that the DOHC was only available on the 2-door Corolla GT (or was that SR5??). Since you have 4-door Corolla DX, it seems unlikely that you damaged the engine head when the timing belt broke the first time. Here's a link the a page that has some timing belt info: http://theautoshop.com/timing.html#TOYOTA

    When you say that your car 'broke down again several days later', what exactly do you mean? Was the engine running, making noises, not running at all...??

    I think that your mechanic may be taking you on an expensive ride. With the prices quoted by your mechanic, you are better off getting a used engine for your Corolla.
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    toyophiletoyophile Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've got a 1980 Corolla Wagon with about 195K miles that starts real rough (sounds like only a couple cylinders are firing) until it warms up, and then it runs like a charm! Any ideas what the problem may be?
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    milairdmilaird Member Posts: 8
    I have a 93 Corolla LE and the ABS light has started coming on intermittently. When it comes on it stays on for the duration of the trip and usually then doesn't come on the next time I drive, but will show up again later. Has been going on for a week now. Any ideas? Sensor maybe or is there something peculiar service related with the ABS?
    Thanks
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    md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Have you changed the battery recently??? The air bag module has a back-up battery system and sometimes when you change your battery the system see's that as a failure in it's reserved power. This reserved power is in case of an accident that causes power loss in turn the air bag will still be able to deploy.. They don't have a monthly service for air bags...(or at least I haven't heard of any dealers that do monthly checks.) When the light comes on they replace a part or the module.

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
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    milairdmilaird Member Posts: 8
    Battery was changed about 8 months ago, but the ABS I was referring to was the anti lock brakes not airbags. Will keep that tip in mind though. Haynes book I have suggested checking fluid, fuses etc. If they aren't bad then have to go to a dealer and they will use the diagnostic tool to see what code they get. Anyone know of a home mechanic way to get the codes from the diagnostic connector? Do non-dealer mechanics have access to the tools for the codes, would rather not pay the hourly dealer rate.
    Thanks for any info.
    Mitch
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    md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Sorry must have had air bag problems on my mind when I read your post. There have been a few in the shop recently. Some techs. do buy scanners that can hook up to vehicles but it also depends on your vehicle(how new is it)??? An scanners aren't cheap, so finding someone with scanner potential might not be too easy...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
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    milairdmilaird Member Posts: 8
    It's a '93. Would I be looking for a sequence of pulses coming from the diagnotic plug were I to look at it with an oscilloscope? Or should I just drop that train of thought? I'd prefer to fix the peoblem myself, without spending alot at a dealer just to report the results from the diagnostics. Thanks for the help,
    Mitch
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    mgm4mgm4 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 corolla has begun making a continuous knocking noise the dealership cals a spark knock. I use high grade gas, have tried many different gas stations to rule out gas problems..it is not the gas. Had carbon cleaned out, spark plugs ok, then dealership replaced the o2 sensor...I still have the knocking/pinging noise. It never did it the first couple of years I owned it and since around 50,000 miles or so it started this. I have paid $300 to get this fixed and it might as well have been flushed down the toilet! Dealership tells me some corollas do this but it is almost continous and I find that answer difficult to believe even though they tell me they have consulted with Toyota headquarters! I can be going 30-40 miles per hour or 60 miles per hour and I can hear it! (Mostly when accelerating the least bit, going up a hill, slowing down to take a corner!) I don't know whether I should get rid of this car. Anyone with similar problems or advice would be appreciated.
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    eve54eve54 Member Posts: 3
    Someone asked if anyone had paint problems with their 2000 Sanddrift Toyota. Yes, I do. Does anyone know if this is a common problem, or if there has ever been a recall for anything of this nature? Is it covered by warranty (although I doubt Toyota would think it anything but owner negligence). I have only owned my car for three months and 2,000 miles, and yet there are paint chips in many locations (hood, side panel, trunk). The paint on the trunk and side has actually buckled in several locations. This cannot be normal, can it?
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    sureshvandanasureshvandana Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91' Toyota Corolla with 126K miles (I am the only owner). Recently when the car stops, I can feel the vibrations or when I am on the freeway and try to accelerate, same thing happens. The car pickups up very slowly when ac is on. I don't know if this is knocking or not.
    Any suggestions? Thanks.
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    flynn48flynn48 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Corolla with 51000 miles. At 40,000 miles the clutch started to creak loudly when used. I took it to the dealer and was told by the service writer that it was a normal noise. After much arguing he finally agreed that it was not normal and would order a switch (he did not order the switch as promised nor did he call me). The switch was removed, all parts were lubed and switch replaced. I picked up the car, drove to the end of the lot and the noise was just as bad. It was late and I had to go. I called the service writer the next day and was told by him to give it a week because "there was nothing wrong". I waited 3 weeks to give it a fair chance and then took it back to the dealer. This time I was told by the service writer that it was bushings. Apparently the bushings were worn from lack of lube. The mechanic stated he removed the clutch pedal assembly and replaced the bushings. I picked up the car that afternoon, drove 5 feet and the creaking clutch was just as loud. I have called Toyota and complained and am waiting for a response from the dealer. My question is Has anyone else had a problem like this and does it get fixed?
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    vipinguptavipingupta Member Posts: 21
    Hi,
    I have 1999 Corolla LE with only 7500 miles on it.
    1. I feel that the steering wheel is not aligned centrally, as when I move it fully, it does not move in a circular motion. It rather goes in slightly ecliptical shape.

    2. Sometimes the rear right hand side door lock does not get unlocked, while getting in the car.

    I have not yet shown this to the dealer and thought of taking your opinion before doing so.
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    bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    Vipin,

    #1. Steering wheel not centered.

    This is the way the steering wheel was designed. It is not a defect, somebody thought it was a "feature". I agree, it is disconcerting, but they did it to try and fool the buying public that the car has a bigger interior than it actually has.

    Bruce
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    tpegantpegan Member Posts: 1
    I am the original owner of a 1998 Toyota Corolla. One morning I was unable to start my car because the key would not turn in the ignition. I had the car towed to a Toyota dealership where I was told that the ignition would have to be replaced. The cost $199. Toyota would not pick up the bill because my car has over 36k miles on it. I am posting this message to let people know that a company that touts its products reliability will not take responsibility for an item that was obviously defective. Also I would like to know if any other Toyota owners have had a similar problem. And for anyone considering buying a new Toyota Corolla I would suggest that they read Edmund's article titled "Economy Sedan Comparison Test". I concur 100 percent with their opinion of this vehicle.
    Tim
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    senthilkumarsenthilkumar Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am the owner of 1999 Corolla LE with 17000 miles on it. From the last 2 fill ups, I found out that my car is giving me only 22 miles/gallon. I drive mostly in the city (silicon valley commute). Can anyone please tell me is it a serious problem or normal one ?

    Thanks.

    Senthil Kumar
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    wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    I'm get 27-28 mpg with city driving. I drive a 1999 Corolla LE automatic.

    The gas milage is couple of miles lower when I turn on the A/C alot. But it never dipped below 25 mpg city driving in the summer. In the winter, the mpg is lower, around 23 mpg city driving (I live in Michigan, we are talking about deep freez over here, so I can't complain).

    I would check to see if the tire pressure is right. Make sure it's around 30-32 psi when cold (meaning you havne't driven the car for a in the last couple of hours).

    Also, don't drive at high speed with the windows down, since it increase the drag very quickly. I hard at over 40 mph, driving with your windows down uses up more gas than turning the A/C on.

    Also, if you drive with the car loaded, it will use more gas. lso, wouldn't hurt to switch to a different brand of gas, just to see if the low milage is with the gas or the car.

    Also keep in my that the gas milage stated (28 mpg for city) is actually is a range. If you look at the sticker, it actually says between 23-31 mpg is normal (or something like that).

    Anothe question, is the gas milage always 22 or did it only become that way recently? Anyway, good luck.
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    senthilkumarsenthilkumar Member Posts: 2
    Hi Wenyue,

    Thanks for the info.on the corolla mileage.
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    tylerhtylerh Member Posts: 2
    Your car has faulty spark plug wires. Just replace with a new one. $100-150 at the dealer or 45-85 at the pep boy auto part. good luck.
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    tylerhtylerh Member Posts: 2
    Neither fuel pump nor the CPU for your corolla may be the culpits for your hard starting problem. The problem is at the fuel pressure regulator (could stuck partialy open). So when you start the car the fuel pump couldn't maintain the pressure in the fuel injection system in order to spay in the cylinders make your car start up. But if you keep trying to start up your corolla , the fuel will flood the cylinder and causes strong gasoline odor arround the area . The part cost about $40.00 at the dealer. and it located at the fuel return line at the fuel injection system. good luck. ( This things took me weeks to figure it out)
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    jsleesijsleesi Member Posts: 33
    Can any one give me some information about,
    When you are stop at triffic light for a long time,

    Shall I put the the gear (automatic) in neutural
    or just put Drive gear and idle?

    JS Lee from Federal Way Washington
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    liufeiliufei Member Posts: 201
    How long are you talking about? If its only 1-2 minutes, then leaving it in drive and idling is probably better, since you dont force the tranny to shift and change gear more than necessary. 5 minutes or more...switching to neutral may help or may not (except for saving brake pads).
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    mpetrovskympetrovsky Member Posts: 2
    I just bought Corolla'97 (auto, 1.8L).
    It has 24K miles on it.
    So far, so good. I do not hear my Corolla's engine at all.
    Usually, you can hear such pinging/knocking noise, if your engine is overheated or heavily overloaded.
    Good luck!
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    sripalsripal Member Posts: 1
    Hello, Does anybody know what is the best schedule for changing engine oil. I have a '99 carolla and I am under the impression that I need to change oil only at intervals of 5,000 miles. But, all the toyota dealers seem to think otherwise. They put a sticker saying that I need to get it done every 3000 miles.

    Sripal
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    mpetrovskympetrovsky Member Posts: 2
    Do it every 3K miles! Do not be greedy...
    Assuming, you're doing 12K/year, make a simple calculation. If you change oil every 3K, you do it 4 times a year. If you do it every 6K - 2 times a year. For 3 years you'll save 6 visits to a service station or $120 ($20 per change in MA).
    So, what is cheaper: $120 of oil changes or $2K to rebuild your car's engine?
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    rsgopirsgopi Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a brand new corolla LE bought 4 months ago
    having run 6000 miles. Now i am feeling my car is
    making noise and i can also feel the vibrations.
    Can anyone please suggest what the problem may be?
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    If U use the Fram 2xguard w/ Castrol or like kind oil, U can get away w/ 5K of freeway driving but not city stop & go driving. Minimum of 3 changes per year or 5K whatever comes 1st if U don't have the time or $.
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    Where's the noise & vibration coming from? Brake, wheel/tire, type of noise? Best thing is to bring it in to the service writer & have them ride along to ID the problem especially since it's under warranty.
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    crieckecriecke Member Posts: 37
    On Jun 19 EVE54 posted a question concerning
    the chipping of paint on her car.

    Seems it takes very little to chip it.

    Others have also asked about it.

    Has anyone taken it to Toyota USA and gotten an answer?

    If you have this problem please post it and give
    us the date of Manuf. found on label on door post.

    If this is truly a problem we should band togther
    and seek and ans. Charlie
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    nbohlignbohlig Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've got a '99 Corolla CE with a number of chips on the hood. In fact, I got the first chip the day after I got it. When I asked the dealer about it they shrugged it off as one might expect. This is pretty annoying because I don't routinely drive behind trucks full of gravel and I never tailgate.

    The date of manufacture is 04/99
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    crieckecriecke Member Posts: 37
    Best I have been able to find out, from two Toyota
    techs. I trust to tell me things as they are, is
    that the goverment has put there finger in the pie
    and auto paint is now a water based paint and is
    more likely to chip than the older oil based
    paints.

    I am now contacting paint manuf.and will post
    what I find out.

    Also told it is not only the Corolla that is doing it but all Toyota cars. I am going to start looking in parking lots to see if I can see more
    chips than you might expect.

    If you check the Toyota news group alt.autos.toyota you will find theses answers to
    my post there.

    Any more comments are welcome. Charlie
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    dchinndchinn Member Posts: 64
    I have a 2K CE bought in late March w/ several chips on the hood. I asked U all if there's a problem back in late April. Seems like it's more prevalent. If a group of us have the same problem, could there be a recall if there's enough complaints. I have a 91 Chevy C1500 PU where the paint literally flaked off the primer. It was the 1st year when they changed over to a new paint formulation. Unfortunately, owners didn't know or complained loud enough to get a publicized recall. There was a secret factory warranty to individual owners who complained frequently to get a new paint job.
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