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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • mano2mano2 Posts: 9
    Thanks for your answer. I wrote to you more "over there".
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    The Toy Corolla shop manual states the cause as either a bad fuel pump/circuit or a faulty Air Cond switch.
  • I just purchased a used 1998 Corolla and I can here a ticking noise coming from the engine. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it's a normal sound for Corolla's. Is this normal?
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    Do you only hear the noise after you stoped your car and turned off the engine? Not while you are driving, and the ticking noise goes away after a while?

    If your noise fits the discription, then there is a good chance it's just the car cooling. And that's normal.

    If you hear a knocking noise when driving, or with your engine on. Then I would say you need to take it to a mechanic for a check.

    Good luck.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: (chipzz) Fri 21 Apr '00 (08:13 AM)
    I'm getting a whine from the rear end of my '92
    Corolla 4wd wagon I bought last yr. Toyota dealer
    mech said probably differential, $200.just to
    open it up to assess problem, then big bucks if
    differential replacement. I noticed a slight whine
    when I test drove, Toyota dealer mechs examined
    and gave it A-1, AOK, "go ahead and buy it",seems they didn't test drive it, now I'm facing big bucks, cause I assumed the whine was normal for 4wd, but noise now seems louder and I want it fixed. Called junk yard for diff., they have the part for $300. (I hear new diff. can cost 1000+?Any advice, similar problem of this model/year?


    Any suggestions for chipzz?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • I purchased new a 1993 Corrola LE that now has 110,000 miles and is in still good shape. When I first got it I complained that there was a ticking. The dealer told me it was normal for the Corrola. One hundred thousand plus miles later the car runs great and I can only say good things about it. I travel often and get to try out many rentals of the same class and can can honestly say that Corrola is the best of all them. And that includes even the foreign models. As for the american cars, they just feel like junk.
  • dbz1dbz1 Posts: 1
    I got my 93 corolla from a toyota dealer not long ago. It has about 103k on it. I found it shakes slightly even on quite smooth roads, and this is more obvious when turning or braking. But it runs ok on highways. Anyone can tell me what the reason might be? Thank you.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: 1988 Toyota Corolla Charge warning light problem (randell) Tue 25 Apr '00 (08:44 AM)

    Hello --

    My trusty 1988 Toyota corolla LE Sedan has just
    started having a problem where the 'charge' and
    'brake' warning lights are both staying on after
    starting the car (they are next to each other in
    the console display).

    Anyway, I removed the instrument panel, did not
    find any shorts or anything. The fuses called out
    in the Toyota service repair manual look okay, as
    well as the wiring...continuity checks okay. The
    alternator appears to be charging fine, although
    admittedly I have not checked everything as the
    regulator is built into it.

    The only thing that seems funny to me is that
    according to the electrical diagrams, both the
    'charge' warning light and the 'brake' warning
    light are connected via diodes on the ground side
    to the 'charge' 7.5 amp fuse (which is okay as
    mentioned above). Removing this fuse does not
    change the problem, although when I apply the
    brake I hear a solenoid of some kind clicking in the engine compartment. I have not figured out which solenoid is the one making the noise, and this may be irrelevant, but it seems strange to me, as no solenoid noise is heard when the fuse is there.

    Any ideas or pointers would be most appreciated.

    Ken Randell


    Any ideas about Ken's problem?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • i used to drive a circa 1990 corolla and it would sometimes emit the same smell. i read somewhere once that it was due to a problem with the fuel injection. it seemed to me that the smell wouldn't come if i went easy on the acceleration, especially when using the car for the first time in the morning. hope that helps.
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    Question for all 98 & newer Corolla owners... Are
    there 2 very small springs holding the c-ring of
    the rear cup holder (one on each side) located in
    the center console (2K Corolla CE). I noticed only one spring on the right side when it is pulled out (it does not pop it cleanly) or should
    there only be one spring on the right side. I've
    checked the shop manual but unfortunately, it does
    not have a blow-up of the center console. Thanks
    all for any replies back. I've addressed this earlier #448 in another townhall Toy topic. No answer to date.
  • bpotter1bpotter1 Posts: 2
    I've got a 90 Toyota Corolla GT-S that has a fuel pump that works sporadicly. What will happen is that when I try to start the car sometimes it works and others the engine cranks over as if no gas is even getting to the engine. If I wait 5min to an hour and try to start the car again it will start. Once the car is started there are no problems at all, only when I'm trying to start the car do I have trouble. I took the car to a mechanic but they can not figure out the problem unless the car is not working. Every time they tried to start the car it has worked. Also, I verified that the problem is the fuel pump because when the car would not start I disconnected the fuel supply line(with the keys in the ignition) to the injectors and it was dry as a bone. Does anyone have an idea on what the problem might be? Electrical? Fuel pump?
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Two questions? First, does your vehicle have an electric or mechanical fuel pump, and second, how many miles does it have on it?

    I had an older model Corolla with a mechanical fuel pump that developed a slight hesitation when I accelerated, despite having tuned it to a gnat's whisker. One day it stopped on my wife, I towed it home, got a fuel pump in case I needed it, and started diagnosing the problem. Initially I removed the fuel line from the filter, filled it with fuel, and it started and ran fine until it burned the fuel out of the line. I knew it didn't have a firing problem, so I repeated the process, but while it was running reattached the fuel line to the fuel filter to see what would happen, and it continued to run. Test driving it, though, the engine just died. I went home, got the fuel pump, put it on, and that cured both the bogging and the intermittent running. In this case, I think I had a valve in the fuel pump that was leaking some and stuck intermittently. Replacing it solved both problems. This car had 100,000+ miles on it. Later I moved about 50 miles from my office and wanted to be certain I didn't break down going to and fro, and as a preventive measure changed the mechanical units out on vehicles once I got to 100,000 miles and had no further problems.

    Now, however, the fuel pumps are electric, last far longer, and cost far more than the mechanical ones. I have never had a problem with an electric one, but they do fail. I have a '92 Tercel now that has 164,000 miles on it, and still has the original electric fuel pump in it. It is the first I have ever had with one, and I dropped by the Toyota place once I got my usual 100,000 miles on it thinking I would do the same preventive change, but the service manager said he had never had one go bad, and the parts man gave me a price of $160.00+ for it. The combination convinced me to leave it alone, and it is still going.
  • bpotter1bpotter1 Posts: 2
    The fuel pump is electric-submersible. When the car was acting up I tested the electrical line to the pump and no power was getting to the pump. So right now I'm thinking the problem might be with the relay or CPU?
  • wsommarivawsommariva Posts: 157
    That is sulfer you are smelling. I have the same thing on my 2000 Jetta. My dealer said that the cat converter needs to burn it out - may take 15,000 miles. That was the dealer. Others claim that the cat converter may be faulty. I have the smell on humid days like you and not all the time. Basically I have the dealer investigate when I take it in for oil changes and they note on the repair order that there is no problem. When I have it inspected in 18 months I'll see if I pass or fail. Here in NJ the emissions test is very strict. If I fail for sulfer, I'll have the dealer fix it.

    william_sommariva@ascap.com
  • reneehoguereneehogue Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla sedan. I am having trouble getting it started. Its like it just not connecting. It will at times but you have to keep at it awhile. We just had a tune-up. Do you think it is the fuel pump? How much does the fuel pump cost? Where is the carbuetor? Please help me if you can. Thank you.
  • mazda323mazda323 Posts: 66
    When you turn the ignition, what exaclty happens? Does the engine turn over at all? Does it makes any other weird noises (like a clicking sound or a grinding sound)? BTW, your car doesn't have a carburator; it's fuel injected.
  • tarmantarman Posts: 12
    The timing belt broke on my 1990 Toyota Corolla DX sedan last week. After having the belt replaced, my car broke down again several days later. After ruling out a possible faulty belt, my mechanic believes that one or more of the valves may have been damaged. After reading the posts here, I'm under the impression that the Corolla has a non-interference engine. If so, could the valves/cylinder head/or pistons been damaged any way? Visual inspection hasn't revealed anything...the cylinder head is being sent to the machine shop right now for a more precise diagnostic test. If it is one of the valves, then my mechanic quoted the repair job at $800--$180 for the new valve, $200 for the head gasket, and $400 for labor. Is this in the ballpark (the parts seem expensive to me--carparts.com lists the head gasket at around $40)? Could the problem be anything else besides damage to parts w/in the cylinder head? Any advice/help is appreciated,
    Chris
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    Does anyone have problems w/ 2000 Corolla sandrift paint chipping off after very light impact with road debris on the hood? What about doors bumping lightly on the side of stuff? Thx.
  • johnyoojohnyoo Posts: 18
    Hi,
    I was wondering if anyone knew any good dealerships/repair shops in the Long Island Area around Commack that has reasonable prices.

    Just got a quote for $170 for 15000 mile service. Want to take care of the car but it's hurting the wallet a little too much.

    Thanks
  • mazda323mazda323 Posts: 66
    The 1990 Corolla with the SOHC 1.6 has a non-interference type engine. The 1990 Corolla with a DOHC 1.6 has an interference type engine. I belive that the DOHC was only available on the 2-door Corolla GT (or was that SR5??). Since you have 4-door Corolla DX, it seems unlikely that you damaged the engine head when the timing belt broke the first time. Here's a link the a page that has some timing belt info: http://theautoshop.com/timing.html#TOYOTA

    When you say that your car 'broke down again several days later', what exactly do you mean? Was the engine running, making noises, not running at all...??

    I think that your mechanic may be taking you on an expensive ride. With the prices quoted by your mechanic, you are better off getting a used engine for your Corolla.
  • toyophiletoyophile Posts: 1
    Hi, I've got a 1980 Corolla Wagon with about 195K miles that starts real rough (sounds like only a couple cylinders are firing) until it warms up, and then it runs like a charm! Any ideas what the problem may be?
  • milairdmilaird Posts: 8
    I have a 93 Corolla LE and the ABS light has started coming on intermittently. When it comes on it stays on for the duration of the trip and usually then doesn't come on the next time I drive, but will show up again later. Has been going on for a week now. Any ideas? Sensor maybe or is there something peculiar service related with the ABS?
    Thanks
  • md_techmd_tech Posts: 84
    Have you changed the battery recently??? The air bag module has a back-up battery system and sometimes when you change your battery the system see's that as a failure in it's reserved power. This reserved power is in case of an accident that causes power loss in turn the air bag will still be able to deploy.. They don't have a monthly service for air bags...(or at least I haven't heard of any dealers that do monthly checks.) When the light comes on they replace a part or the module.

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • milairdmilaird Posts: 8
    Battery was changed about 8 months ago, but the ABS I was referring to was the anti lock brakes not airbags. Will keep that tip in mind though. Haynes book I have suggested checking fluid, fuses etc. If they aren't bad then have to go to a dealer and they will use the diagnostic tool to see what code they get. Anyone know of a home mechanic way to get the codes from the diagnostic connector? Do non-dealer mechanics have access to the tools for the codes, would rather not pay the hourly dealer rate.
    Thanks for any info.
    Mitch
  • md_techmd_tech Posts: 84
    Sorry must have had air bag problems on my mind when I read your post. There have been a few in the shop recently. Some techs. do buy scanners that can hook up to vehicles but it also depends on your vehicle(how new is it)??? An scanners aren't cheap, so finding someone with scanner potential might not be too easy...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • milairdmilaird Posts: 8
    It's a '93. Would I be looking for a sequence of pulses coming from the diagnotic plug were I to look at it with an oscilloscope? Or should I just drop that train of thought? I'd prefer to fix the peoblem myself, without spending alot at a dealer just to report the results from the diagnostics. Thanks for the help,
    Mitch
  • mgm4mgm4 Posts: 1
    My 97 corolla has begun making a continuous knocking noise the dealership cals a spark knock. I use high grade gas, have tried many different gas stations to rule out gas problems..it is not the gas. Had carbon cleaned out, spark plugs ok, then dealership replaced the o2 sensor...I still have the knocking/pinging noise. It never did it the first couple of years I owned it and since around 50,000 miles or so it started this. I have paid $300 to get this fixed and it might as well have been flushed down the toilet! Dealership tells me some corollas do this but it is almost continous and I find that answer difficult to believe even though they tell me they have consulted with Toyota headquarters! I can be going 30-40 miles per hour or 60 miles per hour and I can hear it! (Mostly when accelerating the least bit, going up a hill, slowing down to take a corner!) I don't know whether I should get rid of this car. Anyone with similar problems or advice would be appreciated.
  • eve54eve54 Posts: 3
    Someone asked if anyone had paint problems with their 2000 Sanddrift Toyota. Yes, I do. Does anyone know if this is a common problem, or if there has ever been a recall for anything of this nature? Is it covered by warranty (although I doubt Toyota would think it anything but owner negligence). I have only owned my car for three months and 2,000 miles, and yet there are paint chips in many locations (hood, side panel, trunk). The paint on the trunk and side has actually buckled in several locations. This cannot be normal, can it?
  • I have a 91' Toyota Corolla with 126K miles (I am the only owner). Recently when the car stops, I can feel the vibrations or when I am on the freeway and try to accelerate, same thing happens. The car pickups up very slowly when ac is on. I don't know if this is knocking or not.
    Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • flynn48flynn48 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Corolla with 51000 miles. At 40,000 miles the clutch started to creak loudly when used. I took it to the dealer and was told by the service writer that it was a normal noise. After much arguing he finally agreed that it was not normal and would order a switch (he did not order the switch as promised nor did he call me). The switch was removed, all parts were lubed and switch replaced. I picked up the car, drove to the end of the lot and the noise was just as bad. It was late and I had to go. I called the service writer the next day and was told by him to give it a week because "there was nothing wrong". I waited 3 weeks to give it a fair chance and then took it back to the dealer. This time I was told by the service writer that it was bushings. Apparently the bushings were worn from lack of lube. The mechanic stated he removed the clutch pedal assembly and replaced the bushings. I picked up the car that afternoon, drove 5 feet and the creaking clutch was just as loud. I have called Toyota and complained and am waiting for a response from the dealer. My question is Has anyone else had a problem like this and does it get fixed?
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