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Corvettes and all things about them

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Comments

  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Came back from the birthday bash at the museum on the weekend. Friday took a lot of rain, but Saturday was a great sunny day. They had the new Atomic Orange Vette on Saturday and I had some pics posted by CAC and Rick Conti has some up too. The color seemed a little brighter and lighter than the Daytona, moving toward a copper hue. Anyway, since I like both colors it would be hard to choose if I had to. Lots of nice vendor things, but I kept my hand on my wallet at all times so as not to do anything that would cause my wife to shoot me. One vendor does commemorative conversions of C-5 or C-6 cars to make them look like a 53. He had one there and it was spectacular but I think it was $35K for the conversion. Loved to have done it, but not to die for... :shades:
  • mcg3514mcg3514 Member Posts: 2
    Am a bit surprised at your post. I also own an '05 Lexus ES330 which is really wifes car and family cruiser. My ride is an '03 Z06 which is a follow up to my '01 Z06. Next up is a C6 Z06 when pricing settles.
    Your comments on the Lexus are a bit alarming. I have owned two of them, the original was back in '92 when the SC400 first hit. To this day, I will say it is the finest car I have ever owned. Our ES330 is only 1+ years old but it has been flawless except for the tranny hesitation you mentioned. There is a TSB out for that and I had the dealer do the "fix" as such. No hesitation since.
    I agree with your comments on the Vette as far as performance and braking but saying the "ride" was not as "cushy" bothers me a bit. The Lexus is not made for spirited driving, especially the ES or the LS---it's a cruiser plain and simple. If you want a Lexus that can handle any type of spirited driving, then look to the SC, GS or IS models. It still won't match the Vette for handling but these are cars that can do more from the handling standpoint than the "cruisers".
    My Lexus is as quiet as a church mouse and super on interstate travels.
    My Vette is noisy, rides rough (read, handles well) but it goes like hell and that is what I am looking for...and I just turned 65 so no baloney on the "growing up" bit. Just happen to love the old pushrod V8 rumble...and on rare occasions, I do some spirited driving...and love every minute of it.
    I just don't get comparing anyLexus to the Vette---they are TOTALLY different cars.
  • mynuvette1mynuvette1 Member Posts: 3
    Auto and not sure between coupe or vert. Convertible seems like more bang for the buck and more fun to drive but less safe?

    what are avg expenses per year for tires brakes etc.? Do they wear out quickly?

    Driving school is a must. Do you use original tires or have track slicks to slip on?

    Last, I was thinking the brakes would need to be replaced with more substantial brakes. They don't seem to be enough for a 400hp car? Compared to C55 AMG and M3 for their hp.

    Appreciate the help!
  • mynuvette1mynuvette1 Member Posts: 3
    mcg3514...I knew I woud offend a few of my fellow Lexus owners.

    I agree with your comments and your experience is your experience. I'm glad you didn't have my experiences. I'm happy you have had great luck and joy with your vehicles. I wish that for everyone. That's all I wanted. I've just experienced more crud than the normal human should have to endure with a Lexus, which for me, is unfortunate. Regarding the ES300, it was the 1st year model, so maybe the lesson there is that we should avoid 1st year, maybe 2nd year re-designs.

    Ideally, I would prefer no problems with my new Vette. But that's probably unrealistic. Given my luck with vehicles :cry:

    Can you provide your experiences with your Vette? Anything a new buyer should know would help me a lot!

    Thanks!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    my .02c

    1 Vette's are what they are. They are loud, crude, and don't have the best fit and finish in the world but they are unbeatable in the bang for the buck and fun to drive category.
    2 No sports car is going to give you the quiet and ride that a Lexus or other luxo car will. Can't compare them they are totally different.
    3 Vette issues.
    -Vettes aren't everyday cars, they just don't hold up.
    Tires will typically need to be replaced every 20-25k depending on driving habits. Brakes also don't last as long as on a conventional car.
    Expect some rattles and squeaks, the C5 and I'm sure the C6 are better but they have yet to match the imports in this area.
    Watch out for curbs! Vettes have low noses and chin spoilers that are vulnerable to parking rashes and steep driveways.
    Watch out for the low profile tires. They are more vulnerable to curb rash than the tires on your Lexus.
    Also, they don't soak up ANY bumps so expect a rougher ride.
    As long as you know what to expect from your Vette you will be very happy. Expecting a vette to be what it isn't will lead to unhappiness.
    Good Luck
  • glhendr1glhendr1 Member Posts: 33
    I've read a few of the post in the last couple of week on the brakes but I'm still soliciting help with my squeaky brakes. Please someone, tell me what if anything you have had done to solve the brake issues. I'm taking my 05/C6 back to the dealer next week for the recall on the top but I also want them to take a re-look at the brakes. I want to go in there with recommend fixes that others have done. Maybe I'm just crazy but to accept squeaky brakes on a 50K car is unacceptable. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • glhendr1glhendr1 Member Posts: 33
    I'm also looking for advise on getting that true purring sound for my vette without replacing the entire exhaust system. My car sounds nothing like my neighbor car (3 doors down the street) and it's driving my crazy. Help
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Well, I'm assuming your neighbor replaced his system.
    Most exhausts are cat-back systems.
    In other words they incorporate bigger pipes and less restrictive mufflers form the catalytic converters back.

    I suppose you could just replace the mufflers, but I don't know if you would get the full effect, or save any money.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    This is in response to post #1459...got to explain something here. I am not mcg3514, rather my screen name here is gbjerke. I have no idea as to why my response to your original came in as the "mcg" screen name.
    That being said, be assured you did not "offend" me as a Lexus owner, rather I was very disappointed in how your dealer was treating you. I have found the total opposite to be true of my dealer. They actually go OVERBOARD in treating me, and I find that true with most Lexus owners. They don't hit the top of J.D. Power all the time without giving such service.
    e.g.--on my '92 SC---it had a factory phone. Using the hand set, it would cut out on me. A little fiddling around made it clear that the cord had a short. I called the dealership (70 miles away) and told them to merely send me a cord and I would replace and return the old cord to them. "NOPE", was their response. They asked what I wanted to drive and they would send a car up while they took mine for a complete phone replacement. I said an LS would be nice. They did. Came to my office and we swapped cars. I drove the LS for a couple of days and they brought back my SC with a new phone, programmed and all; plus freshly washed!
    Same thing happened when my salesman called a few months later inquiring how the Lexus was. Off the cuff, and a bit jokingly, I mentioned the CD changer in the trunk skipped when going over rough railroad tracks. Yup, they wanted to replace the CD stacker in the trunk and "what would you like to drive?" I told them to forget it. "No" they said, they wanted to replace the unit. OK, another LS to drive but I got a call the next day saying it would be a couple more days til my car was ready as they noticed a "defect" in the front seat. Hell yes there was a "defect"---like a moron, I sat in the seat with a screwdriver in my back pocket..poked a small hole in the left bolster of the drivers seat...after a bit of wear, it became more noticeable. Yup, they replaced the entire seat with a new one. This, to me, is really "over the top" as far as service is concerned. Nuff said, but I think your dealer is "below standard".
    First year or not, you should not have the hassle you hae had with your dealer....PERIOD!
    As to the Vette, the C5 was a VAST improvement over previous generations. I had been with the Supra's for years, last one being a '97TT. They quit making them in '98 so when it was time to look for something different. The C5's had great reviews and when the Z06 hit, that was it for me. Have had an '01; swapped for an '03 and between them have over 50k in mles logged and both have been flawless. Believe me, not one squeak or rattle from either one. Chevy did a good job with these. Don't expect quiet or cushy. That is not their forte. It is pure push rod V8 rumble that goes like stink...and that is what I like.
    Hope I have cleared the air on my thoughts.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Understand your concerns on the squeaky brake issue. I have not had that problem but have heard of others with same. I use ceramic pads for everyday driving. They are cheap, last forever and no dusting. They are certainly not for track use and they may be a bit short on braking distance, but I have noticed no difference in stock pads vs. ceramics for normal driving. Something you may want to consider.
    Don't even recall where I got mine and if I did, I don't think we can post vendors here.
    If you want, private email me at gbjerke@aol.com
    I'll be glad to look it up and advise.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Boy, I'm busy tonight.
    Don't know exactly what you are looking for as you describe you want a "purring sound".
    There are all kinds of aftermarket systems you can get. If you want a lot of "bark" you can get it. Don't think I can mention vendors here.
    If you are not in a "smog tested" area, you can get manifold back systems (no cats) and use stock mufflers and believe me, they will bark at you.
    Post what you are looking for and I suspect there will be several suggestions.
  • jmessjmess Member Posts: 677
    Be careful about muffler changes with a C6. The stock C6 system is a pretty good balance of performance, noise management, and light weight.

    I have never been a fan of the muscle car sound/rumble. There are so many V8 pickup trucks running around with loud exhaust systems that I don't want my C6 to sound like that.

    So I recently installed the Corsa Sports which have a higher pitch; more European sound. The popular C6 muffler culture says the Corsa Sports aren't much louder than stock. That isn't true, they are a lot louder than stock to a point that they are annoying in daily stop and go driving.

    So now I am going to install the Corsa touring kit which adds some resonators and see if that helps. I was lucky to find a fellow C6 owner who gave me his touring kit. If that doesn't smooth things out I am going back to the stock system.

    So try and find somebody who has the exhaust system you are interested in and go for a ride if possible. The sound clips posted on some of the websites don't really give you a real sample of what the different exhaust systems sound like when they are in your car and you are driving it.
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
    Three words... Borla Cat Back!
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    My POV on avg expenses is not much use unless you plan to track a car and auto is not the best for that, vert is also not good on track. I have two sets of wheels and have Michelin run flats on the stock set. They hardly ever seem to wear, actually I think they have been in the garage all winter since I did lots of track days. The track wheels are Z06 OEM which are 1" wider all around. The tires are usually $1,100 to $1,500 a set and on track they can go quick if you don't manage them well. I've gotten up to about 10 track days on a set with good monitoring of track and street air pressure. I just don't find it worth the time to swap without more than two weeks between events.

    The brakes are not up to heavy track use in long sessions, but if you add cooling as I have done and back off some on threshold braking at the limit they will work. I've been on stock rotors, pads and fluid for three years and now get about 3/4 days out of pads, 1/3 days out of fluid and 10 or so days out of rotors. Pads are about $250 all four wheels, with rotors about $100 for all four. The fluid cost is a function of doing it yourself or not. When I find a brake upgrade that seems well engineered for the whole system I will probably upgrade. I have heard too many problems with partial changes.

    If you drive on the street, as my wife does, I don't expect replacement issues for some time yet.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Borla, Magnaflow, Corsa, GLH (?), Billy Boat, SLP, Bassani, Dynatech, Callaway, LG, etc. The choices are so wide that without hearing some, all the input in the world from somebody else's ears isn't going to solve the problem. Find a local Corvette Club, go to a meeting and ask to hear some, they love to show off what they think is best. I love my Magnaflows on the C5 at the track since I can run at Laguna Seca on sound restricted days at 92db and have no issues, yet at WOT I get enough feedback to make my shift points. No drone on the freeway either. I love the wife's Corsa Indy on her C5 and she does too, but I'm the only one who gets past about 3000rpm and above that they are really loud, great on ramp from Ygnacio Valley Road, in Walnut Creek s/b 680 between 30 ft high walls for a few hundred feet. At 5500 just a little lift, astounding! But in her driving and since both cars are 6 speeds with cruise on the freeway at about 1500 rpm, no loud sounds.

    Go find some, they are a treat, all depends on what you want.
    Randy
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/News/articleId=114943

    My only thought is will that make the current Z06 more available?
  • dmonizdmoniz Member Posts: 15
    I'm thinking of buying an '89 Vette Ragtop with 56,000 miles listed at $13k in Mass. Is this a good deal? I've only seen a few pics and it looks good with just a tear in the driver's seat. What should I look for when I inspect it? Anything you guys can tell me will be appreciated.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    First of all, make sure the guy has service records.
    Run a carfax. Look for any cracks in the fiberglass, frame damage etc.
    Those C4's had a tendency to go through U-joints, and their digital dashes could act up.
    Check for leaks, those 350's had iron blocks, but aluminum heads, if they overheated the heads would warp.
    Take a look at the underhood wiring, heat was a killer in those cars, but being in Mass. should have helped it.
    As for the price, unless it is absolutely perfect, new rubber, brakes etc I think it is a little high.
    I wouldn't look at that car for anything over $9-10 grand.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Below is copied from the 2004 Vette Magazine price guide, you can go to Vetteweb.com and search on price guide to find in the April 04 issue.
    About the time that came out I got a '95 Coupe with only 18k miles for just under $16k and it was perfect inside & outside, but had debris in the engine compartment. I too would say that without service records to confirm mileage among other things it's a roll of the dice.

    1989 COUPE TOTAL PRODUCTION 16,663
    ENG/TRANS HP RPO# Excellent Good Average
    350 TPI/AT 240 L98 16 12.5 9
    350 TPI/6-spd. 240 L98 16.5 13 9.5
    Add 10 percent for Z51 HD suspension option.
    1989 CONVERTIBLE TOTAL PRODUCTION 9,749
    ENG/TRANS HP RPO# Excellent Good Average
    350 TPI/AT 240 L98 18 14 10
    350 TPI/6-spd. 240 L98 18.5 14.5 10.5
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    I wonder how many they're planning on building? Probably not a lot, which means a lot of people will just have to 'settle' with only 500 hp. ;) My guess is that it won't make a big difference in Z06 availability.

    Of course, maybe GM will do something right and build more than 25 of them? Let's see, if they could sell 1000 of them at $100K, that's $100M! Ah, still won't put a dent in their financial problems.

    One thing's for certain, 600hp makes our C6 seem down right anemic. :D

    tom
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Member Posts: 110
    I tried my 1991 Corvette out on a stretch of road that is about 3k long and not any traffic to speak of the other day just to see how fast it would go. I noticed in Overdrive at about 135 it seemed to shift up and quit pulling very hard. I guess it shifted into OD, so the next run I left it in Drive and it did better but I was meeting some traffic so I slowed down. So I guess the best thing to do for top speed is leave it in Drive with an auto trans, what do you guys think?
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    From discussion with people on the C5 6sp, the top end is in 5th gear not 6th so I'm guessing that you found the same issue in the auto. The air pressure drag at that speed seems to exceed the ability of OD to provide acceleration. Stay safe and remember that birds and rabbits at those speeds are big missles.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Ah, what a great weekend, as I cruised up to Indy for opening day ceremonies, and got to run a lap on the track with 90 Vettes and the Pace car. 3 abreast in 30 rows, trying to keep good spacing and covered down. A memorable day in beautiful 70 degree weather. I just hope some of the promo shots that were taken are made available. My passenger shot some Sony tape, and I got a few digital still shots. Conti posted 2 and Dan did on his Indy site too. A really classy event, done up right by the Chevy and Indy folks and the Circle City Corvette Club. It was a "Corvette Day." :shades:
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2002 ZO6. I had a twin tube intake from a my 99 hardtop and would like to know if it will do anything for the ZO6 performance. It looks to me that GM has put a bigger intake on the ZO6 already. The company that manufactures the twin tube said the one from my 99 will fit (with a differante coupler the sell) and improve the performance on my ZO6. What do you guys think?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Given the results of dyno's on the "cable tie" modification for the Z06, I would say you money is better spent else where. In addition, "other than" factory oem air filters do not filter as well. Oiled cotton media also increases the likelihood of getting mineral oil on VERY sensitive MAF parts which can cause your MAF to give false readings and or malfunction.

    The factory designed air filter housing is really designed to meet or exceed the snow "prophalatic test: i.e. to prevent snow ingestion thereby increasing the chance of hydro lock.

    Keep in mind the after market versions are NOT designed with snow prophalatics in mind.

    So IF one does not need the snow prophalatics of the original design, a few options are: drill more holes in the cover to increase surface area, remove the cover all together and "cable tie" the air filter to the frame.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    If that is the only mod you are doing, then you will see very small improvement.
    However, if you are doing further mods, headers, exhaust, ecu mods than a freer intake is a must.
    As for damage to the engine, most aftermarket systems aren't oiled like the old K&N filters. MAF damage is unlikely.
    So is weather damage.
    I think everyone has more sense than to drive a Z06, or any other Vette in the snow!
    The biggest issue is heat soak. Esp here in the southwest.
    Alot of "cold air" systems just pull in air from under the hood, air that is already quite hot.
    If you are in traffic alot, the exposed filter will tend to pull in hotter air from under the hood.
    The Z06 has a better cold air intake than the regular C5's do, so this shouldn't be as bad.
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,472
    I have a '03 6-speed that sometimes does not want to engage reverse. By that I mean that when shifted into reverse the gears don't actually engage, and if I then release the clutch it chatters and goes nowhere. A second try usually gets it in. I can get around the problem by holding the shifter in reverse position as I start to let out the clutch; the gears then engage and reverse acts normally. Has anyone else had this problem?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    My 99 6spd does the same thing.
    Shifter needs to be adjusted.
  • ultraman19ultraman19 Member Posts: 24
    I have a build date of May 22,2006. How many days does it take to construct a corvette?

    Approximately, how long after next week will the car arrive?(OKC.)

    I always purchase GMPP Extended Coverage.Usually, I can get a lower rate than the GMPP MSRP on the coverage, but this time they are not negotiating. ( 84 months/70,000 miles with $100 deductible for $2740). Does anyone know of dependable,equal or superior, coverage for less money?

    I got a 3LT, Z51, 6sp. for $50,780. I thought it was a good deal, was it?

    I have never owned a convertible, any do's or don'ts? Advice?

    Thanks!!
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    You don't have to get GMPP from the dealer selling the car. I have two policies from Fichtner Chevy, Laurel, MT, yes Montana and I live just east of San Francisco. If you want a quote I think it would take you an email to the contact on the web site, search Google. I've had my GMPP honored at two local Chevy dealers with no questions, it is simply in the GM system.
    Randy
  • arizona99arizona99 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to fix a track problem. My drivers seat moves forward about 4inches when I'm driving. Has anyone had that problem before. I know a new track cost about 900.00. Is this a common problem.
  • arizona99arizona99 Member Posts: 3
    I just changed out my front rotors and front pads and my brakes still vibrate. Does anyone have any ideas what I should try next.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    are you sure that it is the brakes?
    Or is it a general shimmy?

    If you replaced the front pads and rotors, maybe it is the back ones that are causing the problem.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Guess I'm not sure what you mean when you describe it as "vibrate". Do you mean a "shimmy" in the steering wheel? If the rotors were warped you would notice this shimmy only when you applied the brakes. If you have this problem when the brakes are not applied, I would first suspect a wheel balance problem; or bent rim? Maybe even a belt seperation on one of the tires?
    To many unknowns. Did it come on gradually or was it a sudden event? Sudden event would suggest you lost a wheel weight and a balance of the tires would be the cheapest attempt at a fix.
    Post a bit more info and I'll do my best at attempting to make a suggestion(s).
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I guess the anwer would lie in the level of ones notion of "safety". I have been running "NON" run flats for 73,000 miles on a 2001 Z06. ZERO problems!! This is not to say I have NEVER taken a nail. I have taken three and all in the same tire. (right rear) In all cases, they were slow leakers. This (3 "peat") patched tire went on to give 56,000 miles of wear. They were GY Eagle F1 SC's. I happened to go to the Toyo Proxes T1S's. I had wanted much better rain performance, as I drive a lot of longer distance touring and can't always control the rain. :)

    There are of course many more options. You might look into the Michelin's Pilot SportPS2's, Dunlop SP Sport Maxx's, or GY Eagle F1 GS D-3's as they are rated the latest and greatest HOT numbers.
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Member Posts: 110
    I just bought a 2002 vette with 1sb package. I locked my keys in the car the other day and was surprised because my 2004 truck and the 2003 truck I had would not let you lock the doors with the keys in the ignition. The owners manual says that the car will not allow you to lock the door with the keys in but mine will. Is there a setting wrong or will all vetts let you lock the door with the keys in?
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
    I have an 02 ZO6 and it doesn't come with run-flats but with a compressor and GM fix-a-flat. The drawback with using fix-a-flat is the air pressure sensor will no longer work if you use it.The ZO6 does not have air pressure sensors. I had a 99 with out run-flats and carried a compressor, plugging kit and a can of fix-a-flat in case I couldn't plug it. Try not to get a flat (or lock your keys in it)! Best of luck with your Corvette!
  • stormin800stormin800 Member Posts: 39
    I own a 99 coupe. 2 days ago, I noticed that the passenger window wouldn't go up or down. Before I go spend hundreds at the Chevy dealership, does anyone have a thought. There is a clicking inside the passenger door. any thoughts??
  • abbylouabbylou Member Posts: 33
    I just purchased our first Corvette and have a few questions? We bought a 2001 with 25k on the odometer and one of the options that intrigued us was the driving mode settings that are located on the console? There is a touring, sport, and performance setting. We have read the manual concerning this, but really wanted to know from true experienced drivers, is this a pretty worthless option, or is their value added? It also has a Route 66 exhaust system? 3.15 rear end with an automatic tranny, which seems to launch it like a rocket? It looks like there has been two previous owners in its short life and was wondering if the gearing changes the everyday driving of this vehicle?
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
    Congrats on your vette purchase! I believe 3.15 is the standard rear and 3.42 is the performance ratio. The 3.15 should give you a touch better gas mileage and still wild performance! B&B makes the Route 66 exhaust. It gives the otherwise quiet stock Vette a muscle car sound and about 11 more HP. I have a Borla cat-back on mine. I had a 99 Hardtop and it was plenty fast. I now have an 02 ZO6 and it is quite a bit faster but my 99 had all the power you could ever need. Unless you're running drag tires all that extra HP are gear ratio are pretty much a waste. My advice on the active handling is to leave it on, it really works! If your like most of us Corvette owners you'll have to try it in the sport and the performance (hang on) modes. Make sure you have alot of room if you do, it's a wild ride! I am sure you will love the Corvette more every day. When I look at mine I can't believe it's really mine and every time I feel that torque it makes me smile!
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    http://www.businessweek.com/autos/content/jul2006/bw20060706_803529.htm?chan=aut- os_autos+index+page

    Shows source if the like is not working.
  • abbylouabbylou Member Posts: 33
    Thanks Vettever, my wife and I were looking at both a 2001 and a 2002 Coupe, but the 2001 seemed to launch quicker off the line. It also came with a Bose stereo and a 12 disc cd changer (for the long road trips) and had some nice chrome rims. We also preferred the black interior to the light gray because of keeping it clean. Overall it was a tough decision because not knowing about the B&B, and selective handling pkg, it came down to just going with the options that made sense?
  • wpeterwpeter Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1967 corvette. It has a 327 with 300hp. 4 speed. We have put on a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, etc. Still having a problem with it over heating. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • pony_piratepony_pirate Member Posts: 317
    Not a car expert, but I would suspect the water is not circulating properly in the engine itself.
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Member Posts: 110
    Does anyone know what new items will be on the 2007 Corvette?
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,192
    from Chevrolet… 4/18/06

    Exterior Color:

    83U Atomic Orange Metallic Tintcoat (a bright chromatic orange), replaces Daytona Sunset Orange Metallic
    GM mailed every dealer the new color selection with an actual chip of the new color. It is MUCH brighter and lighter than Daytona Sunset Orange Metallic!!!

    Interior:

    Two-tone Modified Seats (perforated leather seating surface) with crossed flag embroidery and contrasting stiching.
    Available in 026 Red, 316 Cashmere, 846 Titanium
    Available on Coupe and Convertible with 2LT or 3LT equipment packages

    UK3 Steering-wheel mounted audio controls included with Bose premium audio systems (US9/U3U)

    Larger glovebox storage space

    UE1 OnStar now available on Z06 with 2LZ equipment group

    Enhanced acoustic package reduces road noise and is included with Z06 2LZ equipment group

    Bose audio enhancements

    New keyless access transmitter with integrated mechanical key

    CM7 Power convertible top is now included with Convertible 3LT equipment group

    Cross-drilled brake rotors now included with F55 Magnetic Selective Ride Control

    New Dealer Accessories Available for 2007:

    Racing spoiler
    Body side moldings
    Racing stripe package
    Z06 sillplates
    Z06 427 hood badge
    Hood blanket with color logo

    - Ray
    Ordering soon, I hope . .
    2022 X3 M40i
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Member Posts: 110
    Can someone out there tell me how the trac control works on my 2002 C5? When its turned on does it cut power or what?It seems to accelerates about the same in either mode. Thanks
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Traction Control TC and Active Handling AH are two different things that can operate together or separtely. In full on mode the TC will cut power if it gets a wheel speed sensor input that says one or both rear wheels are turning faster than the fronts. Can happen by trying to break loose the rear under power or just going over a rough patch under power and have it try to loose traction on one side. By cutting power I think it reduces gas to the engine.
    AH on the other hand can do several things if it thinks the car is going to spin out (measured by rotation of the car about the center line, Yaw). Think of a pole in the center of the roof down to the ground and rotating around that pole. It measures Yaw with a gyro sensor, wheel speed differences at all four corners and uses a steering sensor to estimate the intended destination of the car. If it thinks the car is about to spin due to oversteer, rear going around the front, it can drag a rear brake on the outside to slow the car. If it thinks the car is going to understeer, turn the wheel but car doesn't rotate in the direction you turn the wheel it can use the inside front brake to help bring the car around the corner. Some times it cuts power but not always, depends on program.

    BTW, I'm not an engineer. It probably shows.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Things to check:

    Are you using 50/50 antifreeze/water mix?

    Did you test the thermostat? Put that sucker into a pan of water and bring it to a boil. It should start to open just before it boils - 195degrees, and be opening up pretty well when it boils - 212degrees. I've seen new ones that were bad.

    Is the belt slipping?

    Is the radiator shroud in place?

    Is the fan 'clutch' working correctly?
    On a cold day, the fan will turn by hand easily.
    On a hot day, or after the motor warms up, the fan should be 'stiff' to turn. In other words, when cold, the fan is not needed and the clutch lets the fan spin freely and not turn much. When hot, the fan is needed and the liquid material inside the fan clutch locks up the fan so it will turn at (or near) motor speed. (This should be high on the list of possible problems.)

    Has someone replaced the clutch with a 'solid' fan? Has someone put electric fan on it? Either might not be moving enough air.

    Are you running the car hard and getting 'pinging'? Using low octane gas? Timing advanced past stock setting? This will make it run hot.

    There is a small possibility the water pump could be bad. The interal vanes can actually erode away from rust and not be able to throw enough water. Oh, wait, I just looked at your message and it says you have a new pump.

    Is the radiator cap the right one (correct pressure)?
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