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Corvettes and all things about them

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  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    I lived on both sides of the bridge while stationed twice at the Presidio. A great place to visit if you can still get out there on the Marin side is the Baker Beach area and the place that rehabilitates seals and such. You have to go thru a narrow tunnel [one way] to get there but it is a nice place to visit. Here is a good rule of thumb for the weather in the SF area near the bridge. If it is sunny and nice in the morning then you can expect fog to roll in between 2-4 p.m. If the morning starts out foggy and crappy you can expect it to be perfect weather in the afternoon. The nights definitely call for a sweater to be handy. As Mark Twain once said : The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in SF. It is a great town, just a lot of the people are weird. If you get to Sausalito look up Artist Bob Tapia who does great seascapes. He has a gallery there. We have 3 of his paintings.
  • before i bought i thought i would rent for a couple of days.
  • I have had my 07 C6 for about a month now and I have to tell you this is the best Vette I have ever owned. My first one was a 1991 C4 that I had for about 2 yrs. the second one was a 2002 C5 that I thought was the best one until I got this C6. It does everything so easy and rides and drives great.
  • I have owned my 07 C6 for 6weeks and I too think it is one phenomenal sports car. I now have 1400 miles on the odo and I have just started to "push" the acceleration enough to be amazed at how much torque there is at any speed. The interior is very comfortable and my wife loves riding in it compared to my old Honda S2000 which I traded in on the vette. This is my first corvette, but I think that I will be enjoying it for a long time. So far, no complaints at all.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I have owned:

    1) 1972 Coupe bought new. Kept for about 7 years. A pretty car. Last year of non-radial tires, which was not a good thing. Base motor, smogged down, low horsepower car. Sold it for more than bought new.

    2) A 1964 badly abused, horrible looking coupe, bought in about 1975. (Yes I owned 2 for some time). I learned a lot about working on cars with this one. It had a new GM 'long-block' motor, 300hp. Of the first 3 I owned, this was the fastest by far. And with its suspension, the scarest to drive. When I had the mechanicals in pretty good shape, I was next faced with doing a lot of body and paint work. Did not want to put this much money into it, so I sold it. (It was a manual, which I did not really like.) Made about $1,000 on it, not counting my time as being worth anything.

    3) A 1981 coupe, used, bought in about 1988? Another low power car. But with lower profile, wide tires, this was an excellent highway cruiser car and it also cornered well. It just felt nice at 80mph. Kept it about 5 years or so, sold to member of the family for less than I could have gotten elsewhere.

    4) 2007 coupe that is almost one year old. None of the other cars were anywhere near what this car is.
    -Power.
    -Great seats. I've driven it on a 10 hour trip and was not tired. No other car I've owned could have been anywhere near as comfortable, and this includes two Cadillacs.
    -Beautiful. Velocity Yellow.
    -I've not 'pushed' this car at all. But I can tell, it is heads above the suspension of any of the others.
    -Not a single problem at 5,000 miles.
  • I would like the advice of C6 corvette owners as to when they would recommend the first oil change. Mine is a '07 C6 LS2. According to the "oil-life" computer, the first oil change would be called for at around 7500 miles. My "gut" tells me to change oil/filter before that, as I have in my other cars. I am getting different responses to this question from every Chevy dealer in the area.

    I'd be especially interested in comments from those who have owned other corvettes prior to the C6.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, this question can lead to dozens of responses, with people having a huge range of milage recommendations for the first oil change.

    I drove mine for most of the first 4,000 mile on long, interstate trips. At the 4,000 mile time, it indicated 69% oil life left, and the Onstar email report projected this to 14,000+ miles for the first change.

    I changed it at this 4,000 miles. I think this is very conservative. Just recently I read, from someone obviously much more conservative, he changed at 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000 miles. Others have run it to where the oil life indicater hit the 10% or less, which was anywhere from a few thousand miles (a car that had seen time on the track) to the 14,000 mile range.

    I will probably go 4,000 or 5,000 or 6,000 miles between future changes, using Delco filter and Mobil 1 oil. Changing it myself, this is less than $35.

    If you do not drive much, the manual recommends once a year changes, if you put very low miles on a car, and I also agree.

    Except for cars with design problems (Toyota 'sludge' problems), in the last 15 years have you personally and directly known of any auto that had been seviced 'reasonably' (I would define this to be oil and filter changes every 7,500 miles or less) and not being abused,that had a engine, head, etc failure because of oil problems.

    I think not.

    I've not known of one.

    And I'll be you do get a lot of different responses from dealers. I would bet several of them would reach around and pinch your wallet to estimate your net worth, then tell you something like "That there Cor-vet is a high pro-formance machine. It will run lots hotter than any car you ev-er had. You better be sure and get in here at least ever 3,000 miles for a filter and oil change! Don't do that, any you be looking for a heap of trouble!"

    A lot of auto manuals recommend 6,000 to 7,500 miles on 'regular' oil.

    On Mobil 1, lots of cars, including expensive imports, have oil life indicators that will guide you to 10,000 to 15,000 mile.

    The car has a magnetic oil drain plug. It WILL have metal on it for the first change, which is to be expected in a new engine. The engineers that designed the auto, also worked out the logic behind the oil life indicator. I'm more conservative than that. But, I think these guys do know what they are doing. The do not want a lot of Corvette motors having engine failures at 60,000 miles related to oil problems, with documented changes at the oil live reminder. There would be lawsuits.

    Overall, do what you want to do. This is going to be the result of any amount of questions you ask about this, because, as I said, you are going to get a huge range of replies.
  • I have had many new auto in the past and always changed the oil at 2500 miles for the first change. I just liked to get the oil out because of metal that comes with new engines on break in. But with the newer cars I`m not for sure if you really need to do that or not. I guess it couldn`t hurt anything to change the oil and you will know that all of the break in stuff is gone. Thats just my two cents worth, enjoy your car.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 15,160
    ..."I'd be especially interested in comments from those who have owned other corvettes prior to the C6"...

    C5, 2001 Corvette Z06, 74,000 miles "garage queen", oil change intervals of 14,600 (when the OLM indicates changing)

    Since I was raised old school on this issue, I DID change at app 1,600 miles. It was a complete and utter waste of time, energy and resources to change at that interval.

    Listen to your OLM, since all of us operate their vehicles in slightly different ways and environments. Now I know that some of us need almost any excuse to do something on our Vettes but... just go out and drive!! :shades:
  • I have a 2007 C6 LS2 Corvette . I installed two K&N filters yesterday and I was really supprised at how much more accerlation the car has. I really didn`t think that it would be noticable but it is. I Hope my gas milage doesn`t change,I guess if I keep my foot out of it will help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,974
    What you are probably noticing is improved throttle response and induction noise. This tempts the foot to be heavier and gives the sensation of greater speed. Probably you actually aren't going any faster, or if so, very very fractionally. Be sure to keep those K&Ns maintained carefully if you continue to use them.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    Another from the old school and when I got the '02 everyone
    on the net was saying change at 500 miles to get out metal
    particles. The '02 did not come with standard magnetic drain
    plug, you had to add as aftermarket. The wife's '04 did
    have the magnetic drain plug and it did have shavings at the
    first change, not much since but with her's I did the first
    change at about 3k miles. I still have the extra mag drain
    plug I bought to install in that car.
    With my car, since it does track duty I change at 3k miles
    or after 3 track days, which ever is first. Actually the OLM
    doesn't come down that fast even with moderate track duty.
    I get the engine oil temps up into 270's about 3 to 5 times
    a day at the track while on a road trip it never sees over
    about low 200's.
    I'm betting that with standard use anything under 15k miles
    is probably still overkill but what the heck on a 50k car!
    Randy
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 15,160
    On a 2001 Z06, I actually experienced the same thing (sotp) with any of the below actions:

    1. 2002 air filter cover (much greater openings cost $45.)

    2. drilling holes in the stock 2001 air filter cover (to make much greater openings; cost ZERO)

    3. removing the air filter cover all together and plastic tie the stock oem filter in place (cost ZERO).

    You can do a search on the Z06 site. It is also complete with dyno tests!

    The key point here is Corvette specifies their off the shelf vehicle with an unseen test passage of snow prophylactics. In the worse case, the car after being confronted with a 3 foot wall of snow will prevent possible hydro lock of the engine by advertent or inadvertent ingestion of snow. Bottom line is that is the real majority reason for the constriction. So if one does not need, want, or is willing to self insure, just the air filter cover removal is good enough for more freer breathing.

    I would not use a oil media filter for it increases the likelihood of the intake portion being coated with mineral oil, as it simultaneously allows more silicon (grit) into the intake system than a stock oem filter. This of course adds to wear.

    With 60-70,000 miles I have actually used a soapy water white cloth to clean the insides of the intake (clean side) and the white cloth showed literally no dirt. There was no oily residue, but predictably that was due to NOT using mineral oiled media. Also if you use oil media products, use increases the chances of coating the very expensive intake sensors, which increases the chances of failure due to corrosion of those sensitive sensors.

    Far less important (on the consumer side, but probably the real core reason on the vendor side) is how much you pay for "mineral oil". 1 gal retail is app $21. How much does one pay relatively when one buys the 8 oz bottle or spray? (per gallon?)
  • Can someone tell me how the top option works? I see that when ordering a car the top section says removable top $0 dollars, glass top $750.00 and both tops $1400.00. Doesn`t the removable hard top come with the car anyway or is it a different top from the other two tops?
  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    The car comes standard with the painted top.
    The $750 option gets you the transparent top IN PLACE OF the painted. The $1,400 gets you both tops.
  • I see now, The hard top is more expensive.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    No, the painted top is standard....no extra charge.
    For $750 you get the transparent top IN PLACE OF the painted top.
    $1,400 gets you BOTH tops.
    Mine came with painted only, which is what I wanted...like the look of painted only. There have been some complaints of excess heat with the transparent top, obviously from areas of the country that can get pretty "toasty" although you can purchase an interior cover (after market) to cut down on this. I sure didn't want both tops....just something else to store in the garage.
    I wouldn't mind the "view" with a transparent top but I just much prefer the solid color look rather than the 2-tone look of the transparent one.
    It's a matter of personal taste.
  • I'm not sure if this is the best board for this but I feel compelled to alert any and all fellow corvette owners of a problem I've just found out about. However, I must attend to selfish motives too: so if any of you have any knowledge/experience to this problem I'd love to hear from you and how you resolved it.

    I have a 2002 triple black convertible C5. I've owned it since new and it has 25k miles on it. I've had very few problems with the most expensive on being about $600 to fix a headlight that wouldn't go down. After calling corporate and telling them the car just went off warranty last week, they helped me out a lot. Now, just one month after paying the car off, the dealer tells me I have a electric brake control and brake pressure modulation valve that needs to be replaced. Cost: $4000. I literally thought he was joking when he called me. After five minutes of laughter I finally realized he was serious. He said "hey, you got a vette" as if I should have expected this. BS! Last I looked GM/Chevy may not have been at the top of JD Powers or Consumer Reports, but I'll be damned if they were at the bottom.

    Is anyone familiar with this problem and its resolution, options, alternatives, etc.. Oh, I find this out a week after I listed the car for sell. Fixed or not, I will NEVER buy another vette and would advise anyone that does to lease it and send it back b/f the warranty expires. Oh, and find a more sympathetic dealer/service department. I've called corporate again, but haven't heard back as of yet.
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    Well we only live so long, you will only have a few more
    experiences that will make you swear off a few more makes
    and models but fact is, today things are expensive. I have
    a 2002 with almost 70k miles at 6 years old. I got the ABS
    system replaced around 4.5 years and close to 50k+ miles. At
    that time they said the unit was $2,700 + labor. It was
    covered under the 6/60 warranty I had from when new. Also
    watch out for the rear brake light module, that was also
    replaced. Fact is you either pay for new and depreciate or
    you pay to repair and only you can tell which is less painful.
    Randy

    BTW, the brake system is what makes the 4 wheel ABS capable
    of the small interventions that make Stability Control
    possible. It helps if it works right.
  • I just wanted to let people that are planning to buy a new or used Vette that the painted top is very easy to remove. I got both tops with mine because I was worried that the painted top would be heavy but it is very light and easy to take off and put on. The painted top makes the car much easier to cool, so unless you want the glass top save your money.
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    I agree that the clear top is not worth the extra, but my
    wife has one and it is used mostly in the winter, hence not
    much heat issues and at night for driving on trips when
    having the Moon up is really great. It can be fun if you
    learn to live with it at the times it adds some value, not
    what they charge but some.
    Randy
  • I am going to order a base model 2008 corvette and I am trying to determine if I should get the performance exhaust system and the 2.73 axle ratio. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • I ordered a base model with the performance axle. I have read in magazine articles it does make a noticeable increase in mid-range power. Also, the 2008 has a quicker shifting automatic. I passed on the exhaust because of cost to horsepower ratio. It adds 6 horsepower. I haven't driven one with the performance exhaust, but read it sounds real nice when you step on it. Hmmm, maybe I should have gone for it.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    I opted for the dual mode exhaust in my '08 and happy I did so.
    I had an after market exhaust on my '03 Z06 which barked pretty good but at crusiing speed there was a "drone" which was a bit annoying.
    The stock exhaust on the coupes was just OK...too mild for me but an after market cat back exhaust is about $1,500+ and you may again end up with the "drone" at cruising so the $1,200 cost for the dual mode made it a no brainer for me. Certainly not worth the $$$ for only 6 horses but I wanted it for a more aggressive sound. The drawback here is that the valves open at about 3,500 rpm and unless you are tracking the car, one would not get to hear the open valve sound very often.
    Now, all one has to do to keep the valves open at all times is to pull the fuse for the dual mode (it's a stand alone fuse). Sweet music but the dreaded drone at cruising could wear on you.
    SOLUTION--and this is awesome. There is a vendor who sells a "MILD TO WILD" unit which is ultra slick. $100 gets you the unit. It plugs into the dual mode fuse (a 2 minute install) and comes with a FOB so with a push of a button you can either leave them in the stock position or open the valves at anytime. It's a small FOB so I did the velcro bit and put it right next to the start button so I can open/close the valves at any time. The best of both worlds to me.
  • I wish I could of talk to you first. That sounds like a excellent set up. My car will be in Monday or Tuesday, so it's too late.
  • I read in my Corvette magazine today that the six speed auto starts the car off in 2nd. gear from a normal start, not in 1st. Has anyone else ever heard this before.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    That's true, but you can over ride this feature.
    Here's the deal...If you put the gear selector in "D", it shifts just like a regualar auto does...i.e., starts in 1st gear, up thru 6th.
    Put the selector in "S" WITHOUT TOUCHING THE PADDLES and it operates like the regular auto with firmer shifts.
    Activate the paddles and it will start out in 2nd but a flip of the paddles and you can put it in 1st.
    More confusing than it needs to be but it becomes second nature after you have driven it a bit. A peek at the HUD shows what gear you are in. Easy to get used to.
  • newbe3newbe3 Posts: 12
    On a 2007 c6 coupe i am shopping for a cat back system .. some like the bassani have muffler under center of car and others like corsa have mufflers in rear like stock. which is better or quiter in cab of car, their also pushing a b & b system there are so many companies like corsa,magnaflow,borla,bassani b&b etc. which is the best and the best for less noise in the cab help ???
  • will42will42 Posts: 21
    Which vender did you get the "milder to wilder" exhaust override switch from. I funny thing happen to my 08. When it came in, the targa roof didn't fit right. On further inspection from the dealer (removing the rubber seal) that goes around the back where the targa roof hooks in, was a crack and damage. The engineers looked at the pictures the dealer sent and decided the car would be sent to a body shop, fixed, and sold as new. Well, I'm not buying it. So, I'm ordering another one from a different dealer, and getting the performance exhaust. Another bit of info. My car had a build date of September 24th, the day of the strike. The dealer checked with salaried management not on strike and confirmed my car was somewhere on the line that day. I sure hope the assemblers are happy with their new contract and build my second 08 a little better.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,941
    have any of you actually seen a newer corvette being driven fast on the highway? they're always slogging along in the right lane. fellow bald guys, live a little, step on the gas now and then.
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