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Corvettes and all things about them

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I agree. You should beat them easily.
  • jsouthjsouth Member Posts: 13
    You know in the old days you could let some air out of the tires to get a little traction but that won`t work on the run flat tires. The only thing about starting with the TC on is the car will seem to bog if you floor it so if I leave it on I will have to be careful. I also think with a little practice I can start with TC off. I`m just going to have some fun and not tear anything up hopefuly. Thanks for input.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Not only that, but with TC off, you are going to spin the tires, unless you practice some and can find out how to launch without spin.

    Have you done a full-throttle launch?

    The few times I've done it, I've not been able to hear the tires spin at all. The runflats do not squeal! This is on a 2007 automatic coupe.
  • jsouthjsouth Member Posts: 13
    My car is also a 2007 with auto and I have done many full- throttle starts. I have found the best way for me is to start with half throttle and get the car moving then go for it. I will still try to break loose but it seems easier to control that way. My original question was to ask if there is anyone that has used the TC off or on to drag race. I saw on TV where a new Mustang GT 500 and an old GT 500 raced and the new car won because it had the TC on but when they turned it off the race was closer. I will just have to practice,practice, practice.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    I'll stick with my Ducati and Conti mufflers. That's music to my ears. BMW 6 series isn't bad either.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I like Ducatis, one of my two favorite makes of motorcycle. I wish America could make the motorcycle equivalent of the Corvette instead of that of a Buick.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    My Ducati is a 75 860 GT with electric start. Bought it new from a dealer friend. It only has 22k on it as I parked it in my other garage 1985 and got involved in other things like high end audio. Didn't fire it up again until 2005, then noticed it had a noisy bearing, so we did a complete rebuild. It is still at my friends dealership. He has put 300 miles on it running it in. In the mean time, I bought a Honda VTX 1800. The Ducati will probably have to go. I need to downsize lots of stuff as we just bought a place in AZ for winter. No place for a bike here. Spose I could leave a Vette here though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah but lots of wide open space for a Vette in AZ.
  • vettevervettever Member Posts: 20
    02 ZO6 16,000 miles. Every once in a while (like maybe once every 2 months) it fails to start. Everything works, acts like the neutral switch is not working. I replaced the battery after the first time it did it and it has happened about 3 or 4 times since. I changed keys, thought the chip could be the problem but it has happened again. It has always started after a bunch of tries and has not let me down yet but sooner or later I'll be calling for a tow truck. If I take it to the dealer he will have it for a while and give it back with a big bill and "couldn't find nothing wrong". Anybody got any ideas?
    Thanks
    Joe
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Hope if you went, you did well. With TC off you can do burn out if you want. I went
    3 times a few years back and got down to published 13.3's in a C5 coupe on the
    third day with a 6sp manual. With Auto just do a couple practice runs and roll on
    the throttle until you get some slip and figure out what the tires will take. Since my
    350hp will break loose the rear, your 400hp will do the same, easily. The best I've
    seen in autos, just hold brake, put in some throttle, far less than full and release
    brake and roll toward floor as you gain speed. Biggest issue is timing the light,
    and I had to release clutch on last of 3 yellows to get close, you will get to point
    where you just have to follow a script and then only change one factor to see if you
    get improvement.
    As to beating Stangs, remember $ are speed, and most drag guys have modded,
    some heavily but they are still heavier than you. Then it is all about grip.
    Good luck,
    Randy
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    I had '01 and '03 Z's and this also happened to me. (Due to my own stupidity)!!!
    Got in the car, turned the key, and nothing. Radio was on, fan blowing etc.
    Yup, a few choice words, tried again and it started. Happened a couple more times until I realized I had not pushed the clutch all the way down....DOH!!!
    Don't want to oversimplify but it may be something you want to try.
    Like you, I dreaded the thought of taking it into the dealer, leaving it for a few days and then getting the proverbial "cannot duplicate the condition".
    Once I realized my bonehead tactics, it never failed.
  • yellowvetteyellowvette Member Posts: 25
    Hello,I have had this problem with my 96 vette,after the car sat for 10 minutes it started right up. Thought maybe it was the vat's system going south, but i had the other key,never had been used and tryed it and its been a year and never had that problem again. Check your chip if you have one in the key. Sometimes they get loose or dirty even though they appear to be clean. Hope this info was some help to you.---------Yellowvette
  • mjb602mjb602 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having an issue with inspection for my 94 with 105000 miles. I have an intermittent check engin light and if it on when the emissions is being done it fails. I have had issues fixed in past years that had showed up on the computer, but now nothing shows up. The mechanics think its a data link issue and to contact a dealer, or to try to get it inspected when the check engin light is off. I am told there are 3 computers involved and it could be a wiring harnass issue I have been trying to check consumer sites to see if there were old recalls. Any input will be helpful. thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There's a recall for rerouting the engine wiring harness on the left side so that it doesn't short out on the exhaust manifold. Don't know if that's a possibility. The VIN #s affected are:

    R5108900 TO R5110650

    This was a recall campaign # 94C21

    Sometimes these mystery lights are connected to a faulty gas cap or loose hoses or loose connecting hoses within the evaporative emissions system.
  • yellowvetteyellowvette Member Posts: 25
    Mr Shiftright is correct, You can go to www.alldatadiy.com and look up recalls,tsb's and find other information on your car. Hope this site helps you also. Thx.
  • mgriessmgriess Member Posts: 1
    If anyone could help me with how to get to the A/c controller I would be grateful I just need to know how to get to it Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the I/P accessory trim plate.
    3. Remove the HVAC control head retaining screws.
    4. Pull the control head out from the I/P center support bracket to access the electrical connector.



    5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the control head.
    6. Remove the control head from the vehicle.

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE



    1. Connect the electrical connector to the HVAC control head.



    2. Install the control head to the I/P center support bracket. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    3. Install the HVAC control head retaining screws. Tighten Tighten the HVAC control head retaining screws to 1.9 N.m (17 lb in) .
    4. Install the I/P accessory trim plate.
    5. Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N.m (11 lb in) .
    6. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in keyless Entry.
  • jodenesskyjodenessky Member Posts: 9
    Our less than 2 month old 08 base, auto, vette has lost power 3 times driving up the hill to our home in almost the same exact spot. First time we had the car a week. 2nd time 2 weeks! 3rd time the first time we tried to drive it up the hill after it was in the shop for 6 more days! We had the car towed the first 2 times. The 3rd time my husband turned around and limped the car back to the dealer. The dealer says it is the gas. We use Chevron Texaco only. One of the sales people suggested that someone at the dealer where we bought the vette did something to the car! The dealer has now put some kind of monitor in the car for when the next time it happens we are to push the button so they can record what is going on.

    First time engine light came on. 2nd and 3rd time no engine light. On the hill, it drops from 45 to 10 and goes all the way down to 1st gear. The RPM goes up and down.
    The incline of the hill is 3000 to 6500 in 11 miles.
    The hill is smooth and we are on it for 5 miles before it happens.

    Oh and the roof creaks horribly especially on the drivers side as we drive down the hill from 6800 to 3000. It is very annoying.

    Does anyone have a clue as to what could be happening? We would appreciate any help. We have not taken it to the Vegas dealer where we bought it as it is a long distance from our home in AZ. We have been taking it to the local Chevy dealer here in Kingman AZ.

    And yes I am jodenessky who had so much trouble with my 08 Skys brakes. I have no luck with new cars!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Was your gas tank close to empty?
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,191
    I have never experienced anything like what you are describing – nor have I read about anything similar, and I have monitored the largest “Corvette-focused” forum for over 3 years.

    Good luck, and please post the resolution?

    Regarding the noisy roof – there is a TSB:

    http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1554872&highlight=roof+tsb

    But I would not let a Dealer do what is described.

    I did the fix described here – and it reduced the noise on my 2007’s top by over 95%:

    http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1956846&highlight=noise+top

    Good luck.
    - Ray
    Happy to have a Chevy dealer nearby with a good ‘Vette Tech.
    2022 X3 M40i
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I agree with fedlawman, this might be a fuel supply problem. Especially if you are running the tank low of gas, and drive up a 5 mile hill (I think that is what you said).

    The Corvette gas tank is a complex arrangement. It is a split, two-tank system, with I think 3 fuel pumps in it, to move gas between the tanks and to the engine. This system has had some reported problems. Usually they seem to be failure in the guage display (caused by components inside the tanks), and also failures that will shut the car down completely.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This could be so many things. I think it's electronic in nature and the monitor is a great idea for solving it. Maybe this dealer does not have a good Corvette tech. Not all dealers are equal in their skill or understanding of these cars.
  • camydogcamydog Member Posts: 64
    Hi all,

    I have been troubleshooting the wipers on my '68 coupe for a long time and have replaced many parts. I have the wipers working and the wiper door responds to the override under the dash. My problem is that the wiper switch has no effect on turning the wipers on and off and the door wants to close on the running wipers unless I override the door. I control the wipers by the override under the dash. They are on unless I override. Just on and off, no two speed.

    The vacuum hoses are correct, I have a new wiper relay under the center console, the vacuum valve in the right fender is new, the hoses are new and I have good vacuum. The up switch on the wiper door works and the linkage for the wipers and door is intact.

    So, the problem is the wipers will not work with the dash mounted switch, will not park, and the door will close on them while they are running if I don't override. I suspect the wiper motor curcuitry.

    If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

    Thanks.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    First, you are in the C6, 2005 and up, area. You need to go to the C3 section for your 1968.

    Next, I once owned a 1972. There is a relay inside the wiper motor itself. This controls a lot of the wiper motor. It, along with a cam arrangement, controls the 'park' feature. You may need this relay, or may need an entire new wiper motor. You also need a factory service manual to help with your work on this.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    First, you are in the C6, 2005 and up, area. You need to go to the C3 section for your 1968.

    Must be me but I can't find a C3 section under Chevrolet Corvette. I could find the C6 topic but that is different from this one. Have you mistaken a Corvette forum with Edmunds?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Dang, dang, dang, wrong forum site. Thought I was on corvetteforum ...
  • klinkmeisterklinkmeister Member Posts: 2
    The red wiper door light will not turn off even with the key removed, any ideas on this problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A 'red wiper door light'? I don't remember any such thing on my 72. But, it's been a long time.... And, the 68's are different animals in several things.

    But, do you maybe have an added on security system, and this is a light for it?????
  • klinkmeisterklinkmeister Member Posts: 2
    No alarm system," wiper door" is on light
  • sawyercsawyerc Member Posts: 13
    Where is the best source for the tires and rims for the 1984 Vette? I am helping a friend and may need to get more info, but I know that 16" are not common now, but back then I think they were standard? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes 16"s were standard. GM was going to issue the car with 15s, and in fact you'll see 15s in promotional material, but by production time they all got the 16s, which were supposed to be optional.

    I think www.tirerack.com would be a good starting place for research. You want to be careful because the '84s can be very harsh-riding cars (as your friend no doubt is aware by now).
  • sawyercsawyerc Member Posts: 13
    Yes, he received the car from his father and his main "comment" is that is hard to drive with a heavy clutch. I need to revise the year to a 85. It is all geared toward racing. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well at least he's on the right "track" so to speak. Work on your tires, suspension and brakes before you put any more power into it. Without top notch tires, a C4 loses all its handling abilities.
  • jsouthjsouth Member Posts: 13
    I know the car has a % of oil life display, but do most people really wait until the oil gets down to the "Change Oil Now" indicator or change it at say 50%? I change my oil at least one time a year because I only put about 7K a year on my Vette. What do you think?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    That's exactly what I do. And for additional piece of mind you might want to send that oil in for analysis, like an early detection or warning.
  • toydriver1toydriver1 Member Posts: 11
    I'm no expert having owned my C6 for just over 1 year. However, I changed the oil "on it's birthday" at around 4800 mi and the oil life data was around 60%. Based on my experience that would result in around 12K miles before the oil life indicator indicated 0%. I read the owners manual and despite the description of following the oil life data on the dash computer, it also says to "change the oil at minimum of once per year". I called 4 dealers in the area and got answers "all over the map". Some said change at 3K intervals, some at 5K, some at 7.5K, some said follow the oil life data. If I could drive the car all year, I'd probably wait till closer to 10K between oil changes, but it will depend upon how you drive. Make sure to use Mobil 1 Synthetic which is the only oil recommended by the manual. It is pricey.
  • xvzrtgsglxvzrtgsgl Member Posts: 2
    Interested to buy Corvette#1 for under $15k.
    Buy newest possible? Particular years? What is consensus? The good? the bad? the ugly? What would you buy?
  • toydriver1toydriver1 Member Posts: 11
    If I were in your shoes, I would look for a C5 (1997 or newer). You might have to spend a bit more than 15K to get a nice speciman. So many things were improved on the C5 vs. the C4.
    BTW, C6 models ( 2005 and newer ) are even better yet. Love my C6.

    Happy hunting.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You really don't have much choice with those criteria. It would have to be a C4 and some of the C3s from the late 1970s that nobody much wants, that's it for $15K for anything #1.

    A C4 can be a pretty cheap good ride, but you must be prepared for the usual reliability issues with this model. I'd certainly buy the newest model year C4 you could afford.
  • cruizertoocruizertoo Member Posts: 1
    My 86 vette wont start! I drove up to the garage, shut car off to unlock garage doorand now the car wont start, instrument cluster lites up but starter does nothing, checked vats, resistance reading was the same at key and connection at steering columb base, checked fuses, put car in neutral and park, also interior lights dont come on when doors are open but turn on with lite switch. Anybody have any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Maybe the neutral safety switch?
  • hawkerpilot62hawkerpilot62 Member Posts: 1
    Ladies and Gents, I am in the market for my favorite Vette. I have always loved the L82 model body and I am interested in purchasing one. There are several nice, nice machines available for reasonable prices. My question is: what are the dangers, potential or otherwise, that I need to be aware of?? I thought I remember years ago hearing of "issues" with these year models. Any and all thoughts will be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Ron
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not too many issues except that the car itself is kind of an "issue". They are among the less popular of all Corvettes, next to early C4s I mean, and can be bought relatively cheaply. The reason for this is mainly the lack of horsepower, which of course can be corrected with a transplant. Natch the L82 option is better, but it's still nothing to write home about.

    They drive pretty well actually. The interior gets very hot due to the position and nature of the catalytic convertible, so without AC you're gonna die in there on a hot day. Some parts are hard to find, too, like heater/AC controls. Also the interior uses lots of cheesy plastic which tends to break.

    Best thing for Vettes in these years, IMO, is to inspect for collision repair. Remember, if the paint looks too GOOD, be suspicious and go over that area with your hands, looking for ridges/patches. These cars were painted by hand originally, so any car claiming to be "original" shouldn't look all that good. Also assembly work was in general quite careless, so don't worry about things not fitting. That's the way they are.

    Yes they are reasonably priced, as befits the supply and demand equation. You can find decent ones around $10K and really nice cars under $20K last time I looked. I'm sure value with increase as time goes on, but not at a rapid pace.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Although I've been interested in Corvette for many years, I'm not exactly sure about what year we are talking about here? L82 started in what, the mid-70's?

    You are looking at cars almost 40 years old. Overall, there isn't one thing that should be considered. Everything on something this old could be about to fail, has been heavily modified, has been replaced with non-stock components, etc, etc.

    From some limited reading about these older cars in a forum with many, many messages, it appears rust has become a big problem. Even frame rust is something that must be looked at. And, the 'cage' around the driver compartment that runs around the front window is now a problem for rusting out.

    I've owned a 1964, 1972, 1981, and now a 2007. Each of these cars is a large jump in overall 'quality' from the older one.

    The 'mid-years' of 1963-67 are just beautiful. By 1981 the car had become a great highway cruiser, with larger tires, low profile, and quietness. From 1971 until, what, about mid 1980's they were very underpowered.

    My 2007 is a totally different car. By the 2005 C6 model, they got it right.
  • oldschool7oldschool7 Member Posts: 2
    ihave an 1982 w/ 29,680 orig miles. thats in mint shape .i have been offered 27k. i'll wait till market comes up or i get desperate.
  • oldschool7oldschool7 Member Posts: 2
    no manual your correct special tranny on colllectors edtion different rear end ,l-83 cross fire engine rated at 200 horses but look at kilowatt rating. prett fast over 100 i can attest to but speedometer only goes to 85mph.so who knows. i guess you could ask the porches and beamers and gt mustangs that could not even keep up.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I guess seeing is believing.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    oldschool, you are replying to messages over 3 1/2 years old.

    Think that guy and his B-I-L are still dealing on that 82?
  • critterdoc1critterdoc1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought an 89 vette with a heater/ac system that wouldn't respond to any of the push button controls. Replaced the in dash heater/ac control unit. Now the unit responds to all modes but blows only cold air from the heater/defrost ducts. A/C works and unit blows cold air. Heater hoses hot to touch, coolant level full. Is there an acctuator or some other control that is keeping heat from being blown? Is it possible that the OUTSIDE of the heater core is plugged with dirt/etc? If the interior was plugged, I'd think one heater hose would be noticeably cooler than the other.

    Another interesting finding is that air blows out around the A/C coolant tubes where they enter the firewall when the heater is activated but not when in A/C mode, like air can't get through the shrouding. How is that possible?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might find this article of help to you:

    Blending Door Problems
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