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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
He had touched up the chips with the wrong color red... I had a body shop clean them up and re-touch up with the correct color.... still... not that great..
Other than that, the paint looks fantastic.. (so, squint and only look towards the rear.... of the car)
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2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Me: "so you like my car then? I'll let you take it once a week. I haven't driven it since Saturdsy, so I'm taking it tomorrow.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
How do you like that Griot unit? Is it the big one or small one?
Andys....I do take care of my cars, in and out.
Q...is your a Midwest car?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Nope, my 330Ci is an Arizona car. The ultraviolet can really play havoc with paint out there. I can't take credit for the condition of the paint since I just bought the car this winter.
I'll take the credit for the great paint on my E39 528iA which I keep in NH. I've had it for 8 yrs and the Steel Blue on it is in great shape thanks to frequent detailing and regular waxing. Despite living on a dirt road, there are hardly any chips.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
lcs
1347
at
Gmail
You could wax & buff 2 cars in the time it normally takes to do 1.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Nope. Lived its life in NJ.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Billy.....I've kind of settled in with Zaino's AIO product. I used to do all the mixing of additives, using different Zaino products. Now, I get a really good shine, and really good protection using their "all-in-one" product. One coat usually gets me about 6 months of "beading". BMW paint responds really well to it, too (Black Sapphire Metallic).
Q...in all fairness, my vehicles are garaged. So, I think that adds a lot in keeping the finishes in better shape. That said, I think this is the first car I've owned where the paint doesn't show one ding, one chip, one scratch....after a year. This bodes well (not like I keep any car long enough for the finish to get worn to begin with :shades: ).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I drove an M3 w/SMG trans. Once. Several years ago. Not smooth, I agree. The DCT, I find to be incredibly smooth under almost every driving circumstance, amazingly quick in up & down shifting – and for me, it works extremely well with the TQ of the ‘overboosted’ N54.
I chose the 335iS for several reasons. And I am quite happy with my choice. Compared with the BMW Performance Power Kit for the N54 engines, the 335iS overboost provides 370 TQ, for long enough to get into a heap of trouble. The PPK offers 317 TQ w/DCT. [ Below quote from BMW. ] The DCT was not available in the ‘regular’ 335i. The stock performance exhaust on the ‘iS’ is a nearly perfect compromise [ for me ] between interesting and obnoxious volume – and I find the sound at WOT to be absolutely intoxicating. Oh, and I really liked the style of the 18” wheels on the ‘iS’. [ Style 313 ]
- Ray
FWIW
'Torque is increased to 332 lb-ft (when equipped with an automatic transmission) and 317 lb-ft (when equipped with a manual or DCT transmission).'
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
If this is in the wrong section, I'm sorry. I couldn't find how to create a new section.
Raymond
There was no adaptive cruise con on the E30 (1982-93), perhaps you mean the F10 (current 5 Series).
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Here come the arguments about how far they've come- better mpgs, faster to 60- sorry. If the car has a sweet manual available - its tHe only way to go.
The traditional automatics have gotten better than the old 4 speed slushboxes of the 80's & 90's. They are just as fast & get better fuel economy. The double clutch auto manuals (dsg, DCT, pdk) will shift faster than any human can around a race track.
My biggest reason for buying my BMW in an automatic (besides the fact it was a leftover) is because it is easier. Easier when my wife has to take my car 1 - 2 x per week. Easier when I'm literally crawling in traffic on a Thurs or Friday afternoon on The Cross Bronx, The Merritt, or Conn Turnpike (I 95).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I don't care about "deals", waiting 3 months on the order, or what not. Going to Germany is only an icing on the cake for me, even if after flying back I had to wait almost two months to get it back (well, I chose to pick it up in the Performance Center, so they had to get me another time slot there, which probably extended the wait time by anothe couple of weeks).
I understand I may need to pay more (dealer may be less inclined to discount a car that's not on his lot), especially if I also want unpopular body type (like that wagon - you won't believe how many people look at that and say "I didn't even know they make them..."), or feature combination. I simply don't care - to me saving two or three grand on car that I don't really want, is not real saving.
If I'm about to drop 45 grand (give or take), it has to have everything I want and nothing I don't, be in right color, etc. Couple of thousands less would make me feel better for just about a week - then I start picking it apart in my mind, which will inevitably lead to premature trade.
It pretty much happened with STI - except it was planned. The car was a great deal (30 grand plus taxes on $36.5K sticker PLUS 0% interest), but because it was a compromise (in my mind anyway), I knew the moment I bought it that it was a transitional car (transition to my current 328). It was OK so no torture driving it, but there were some aspects I didn't care for. Financially it turned out to be a deal of a century: I sold it three years later for $22.8K three years later, which turns into less than 300/month depreciation, including full tax (I did not trade the car in). I know I won't get such depreciation on my wagon, but I simply could not wait to get it.
In contrast to the STI, with my current 328, I can see trading it early (less than 5 years) only because it turned to be a money pit (some early failures raising red flags), or new offerings get me excited over the top (e.g. they come with 3-series GT in 335i variety with manual tranny) and I have some new money lying around I don't know about. BTW, I'm not so easy to excite when it comes to spending money.
They just showed pictures new 3-series touring (wagon). Very nice outside - maybe even better looking. But I'd rather stay with my six-in-line. I love that engine, every day, every minute. Doesn't matter it is not superfast, it just feels right. They can keep that four-cyl turbo for now.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I don't understand the question. Why bother with what? Driving a car? :confuse:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As you stated, the new transmissions are faster than manuals... so they are more performance oriented. I could argue, why buy a performance car if you are only going to hinder it with a slower manual?
Of course, I WON'T say that because I am a true enthusiast who appreciates capable cars in all configurations.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My wife's Infiniti G37X will blow my doors off in a straight line.. 327 HP.. It is stupid fast... But, it is a bloated truck compared to my car... I wouldn't trade even up, if I had to drive it every day (and, it's worth twice the value of mine).
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For me, if the BMW DCT is as good as what people are saying, I wouldn't mind taking a loot at it on my next BMW (if it is offered.)
But of course, it is a personnel preference I use to breath manual transmission's only, but as I'm getting older, I like today's DSG and DCT transmissions.
True enthusiasts choose manuals ( more often). Let me know when you get the Lamborghini and I will try out the dct.
Like you, for my daily driver, I want a fast car, that handles and rides well, regardless of road. That's why I buy what I buy. I'm sure same goes for you.
GF, on the other hand, loves driving my Fiesta (which is a nice little handling car in it's own right) and her Avalanche. She just acquired a nice little Subaru Outback, too.
Yeah... you're right. What was I thinking saying Ferrari and Lambo are performance oriented. :lemon:
The tsx is a perfect example of a car that equipped with a manual becomes a totally different car then the accord underpins would suggest.
I agree. And that's because the slushbox attached to it sucks.
This idea that autos are better is one of choice, sometimes laziness. 95% of new cars here in th states are autos - does that make them better?
I never once said it was better.
Let me know when you get the Lamborghini and I will try out the dct.
Go down to the store and try one out for yourself. Probably easier to try the PDK out at the Porsche store, though. Make sure you get one with the Sport Chrono pack.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm with you. Although I don't want to say its due to age.
Partly, I blame my non-manual-driving wife. But I do also like the performance advantage. It is the same reason I chose the 1 over the 3 ... to lose the weight. The 3 would have been way more comfortable and sensible, but I wanted all the bang for my buck I could get out of that N54 engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
However, if we are talking entry-level performance cars with 250-350 hp, especially on lower end of that range, I think I'd not get an auto, if manual were available - and I would look for manual availability in original selection process, i.e. Lexus IS350, MB C350 are out, Infiniti G37, BMW 335 are in (and so on) unless there is something really special about those former ones (which my understending is, there isn't).
2018 430i Gran Coupe
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And if you think you are a better driver just because you drive a stick...you are also wrong.
Being a good driver has nothing to do with driving a stick or not. I know people that drive sticks and they still manage to do all sorts of other things with their hands which probably makes them even more dangerous on the road. I also know drivers that drive automatics that keep both hands on the road and don't "ecommute" so to speak so that may make them better drivers. We really don't know who is the better driver based on the type of transmission they use. There's a lot of yahoos out there driving sticks that may think they are good drivers but are really just accidents waiting to happen. Of course, that goes for those that drive autos too.
Ummm... I don't. I also don't think I'm a muskrat ... which has about as much relation to what I've said so far as the statement you just made. :confuse:
BTW, in case you don't realize, and just to point out, I have 3 cars currently, and only 1 is an auto. The other 2 are sticks because that was the better performing option on those particular vehicles.
The older arguement is very valid
Of course it is. I never said otherwise. Do you read my posts at all? Or are we speaking different languages and I'm just not aware of it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
A humorous story, my best friend ordered and took delivery of a brand spanking new, manual transmission Corvette convertible a couple of years ago. He drove it straight from the dealership to my house to show it to me.
He had the top down, stereo cranked (I could hear it from the 2nd floor of my house). I went outside to see him sitting in the driver's seat beckoning for me to "hop in". I did just that. He gave the throttle a couple of blips, then let out the clutch. You know where this is going. He stalled it dead. I told him he better let me drive..... :P
Another....this happened to me last Fall. Why people think they need to race BMWs is beyond me. But, some do.
Stopped at a red light on a 4 lane. Guy pulls up next to me in a 350z.....arrest me red. He blips the throttle a couple of times, letting me know he was gonna, by golly race me stop light to stop light.
Light turns green. I pull away....no Z. I look in the rearview.....he stalled it.
Last one.....this is when I had my TL SH AWD. I was driving the backroads near Amish country. There are great driver's roads there (must be careful of horse drawn carriages).
This time it was a G that wanted to prove their prowess. Long and short if this, he and I went back and forth, one in front of the other at different times. Until, Mr G must have hit 4th instead of 2nd, bogged down and stalled. He became a picture in my rear view.
Everybody has those stories, however.
I would have been more selective of colors/options/transmission choices, ect if I didn't have my Prelude. I also truly would not have been able to afford such a nice BMW had it not been for the insane incentives. Right now I've got the best of both worlds. I get my stick fix in when I WANT (Sat work commuter) & a more than capable (powered by a truly amazing Inline 6) AWESOME commuter car for that I won't own out of the warranty period for every other day of the year.
I'm not entirely sure what's going to happen when my lease is up. Kyfdx convinced me NOT to buy the car out after the lease is up (He's a very bright, sensible guy & is a host afterall:) I don't think I'm going to like the new Turbo 4 & Electric Power Steering (part of what I HATED about my TSX) on the F30 3er. It is going to be a more expensive car to buy (higher MSRP when similarly equipped), I won't be able to buy it (or lease it) for the same amount unless I severly cut down some of the options, which would be a huge compromise I'm NOT willing to make.
I could lease something much cheaper (for commuting purposes) and put extra money to paying off my Pilot before it's finance contract's maturity date 4 years from tomorrow (it is a year old today). I've also got a mortgage & 3 kids to raise (and send through college). I've got my no compromises Prelude.
I love the idea of doing ED, but it just doesn't work for me. I work 6 days a week & have 3 kids. My only vacation is the last 2 weeks of July every summer.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
You should look at it from overall six (or so) year cost perspective, not just price at the buyout. You say you got some insane deal, which suggests you got both a good purchase price at the lease beginning, low money factor, and high residual. So you would be giving back some of that inflated residual - in a sense you'd defer the initial purchase (which was at low price, I remind you and finance charges were not very high up to this point).
So say, you leased for three years and you have to buy reminder of 50-55% of MSRP (is that the residual?). Granted, it's a lot vs. real value, which may be more in 45%- area - but is it really? If you define your residual vs. trade-in value, it may be even less, but you have the advantage - you know the car. Moreover, you'd never be able to buy same car on the market for that much, dealers would mark them up and other owners would also want more than the dealers are offering. Moreover, you haven't paid much up to this point and you had a good initial discount. To get the total nominal cost (does not include other aspects of the ownership), add all the lease payments and initial downpayments, taxes and such, buyout purchase price and say 3.5%-4% loan for 36 months (can you do 24 months? - would be better...). If the total is still within reason vs. original car price and you like the car (and it has no problems so far), AND there is still nothing else around you'd equally like, why not do it? The alternative is you some hum-drum commuter on a lease that you'll dread every day you sit in it and every day you'll be thinking "why, oh why I didn't take the bimmer"?
2018 430i Gran Coupe
Exactly right - I remember I had several discussions with people, to whom I had to explain that concept. They all cited low depreciation as a main reason of them getting some car, to which I would always say - I buy a car for me, not the next guy. Of course, it has its limits, e.g. if I had two otherwise equal (or at least very close) choices then I would look into depreciation. Also, if some vehicle has abnormally high depreciation, it is a good indication of possible troubles with quality - not always, but quite reasonably inferred. However, I never really had a problem with high depreciation cars so far - those did not appeal to me, anyway. It just happens that my latest choices, i.e. Subaru, BMW have been close to top of the charts in their respective classes, but I did not chose those brands for that reason. When I buy it, I assume it will be "forever", even if it is not realistic. So far it served me well. Will see, if the streak continues...
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I'm also in agreement that if you're spending 10s of thousands of dollars for a new car, get what you want. Don't settle for a color you may not want, or for cloth if you want leather.
I know I probably spent the better of two months looking for my 335i. There were plenty around. But, they were either the wrong external color, or the wrong internal color, or the wrong options, etc. I wanted what I wanted. It took two dealers, two months to find the only one in the country I wanted. Both had to get it from the delivery dock and route it to their dealership. Only one was able to do that. They got my business.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
You obviously haven't driven these new-fangled transmissions. You tell it when to shift, just like a manual. The only difference is that you don't step on a pedal to do it.
Overbearing? :confuse:
I wasn't the one who stated all people without a 3rd pedal should be driving Camrys/ESs. I haven't made any disparaging or confrontational remarks, but I can't say the same of you.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My belief is and will be if you choose a performance car (non Lamborghini) for your sporty car - it should come with a manual- if you drive 40 miles on the Merritt during rush hour I can't argue the benefits of an auto, but then again you are prob looking at not just a performance car for this task.
Overbearing - for sure - btw the new es is here - new auto transmission you should check it out.
Save the manuals
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/save-the-manuals-official-headquarters