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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

1911131415

Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    Are you able to disconnect the cd player completely as a first check? It was the change made and then after that you noted the problem. Logical move.

    Alternators have been known to allow a drain on battery. So have starters.

    Not sure just how the wiring logic is on your car but some have had problems with the rear strut load-leveling compressor running even if the car is off. You might pull the fuse for it temporarily. Do you notice the compressor cutting on while driving indicating the struts or lines may be leaking?

    Also the automatic blower speed control, the blower control module, can be on after the car is off--if your car has the digital temperature control. However, I would believe it would be on immediately even if the key is off. The modules fail in different ways.

    Beyond that you're down to checking for a drain and I believe that's 30 milliamperes or more. I can't guarantee that as the maximum normal drain because I'm recalling that value from memory for the H-bodies where people have checked.
  • mem454mem454 Posts: 2
    find who traided keys with you !
  • mem454mem454 Posts: 2
    Hi! I'm Mike. Does anyone have any idea how a serpentine belt goes on a 1998 Buick PK. \ Ave. 3.8L. ? There is no sticker on the car to show how to put it on. Can someone PLEASE send or post me a pitcher or something that looks like how it's sapose to go on? I'm new at this forum stuff i don't know post a pitcher or not, I thank you so much! Mike..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,649

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  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Wow that link contained a lot of different diagrams! (but none of them match mine)

    Here's what mine looks like:
    diagram: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2698621300105698750ZGDjuw
    picture: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2999066120105698750gRPVZQ

    If you haven't removed your belt yet, make a diagram. If you have, I'm sure you've figured out what a pain it is to remove the lower motor mount to replace the belt. That design flaw was fixed in the 2000 model I think, it is a 5 minute swap on the later models.

    On the other hand, you may just be replacing a component like the alt or water pump.

    Hope this helps.
    :)
  • bought a radio from junk yard and theft deterrant is active. is there anyway to disable when you don't know existing code. the code is possibly same as set by factory but i don't know that either. any help appreciated.

    i have factory service manual for 95 PA. from all i read, buick radios from 95 to 2000 are compatible. in that case, assuming that 95 FSM instructions are applicable, i have the procedure for disabling theft deterrant system. however, the radio was purchased off the shelf from the junk yard so i don' t know the VIN the radio was taken from. as i understand it, dealer will not tell factory code if they don't have VIN.

    i would just return radio to JY for credit but it has features i was looking for (dvd player and cd casette player).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,649
    Here's a place that says they'll do it, but whether it's a scam or not, I have no idea.

    UNLOCK RADIO CODES

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • i am going to give the site a try. will post results later for future reference. thanks a bunch.
  • with reference to my previous post, the site is legitimate. they charge $7.00 for help in determining your radio theft deterrant code. they also provide instructions on how to go about entering the code.

    they were not able to help me because my radio had an additional malfunction but they are refunding my cost voluntarily.

    my thanks to Mr. Shiftright for steering me to the site. the site is radio-code.com.
  • The car is the 3.8 series 2, after cranking, the car idle changes rpm from around 800 to 1200 and back, then while in park or drive it has a shutter at 4000 rpms.The fuel hand rises to full and then back to correct. The parts I can say are good are fuel and air filter, plugs and plug wires. Of course the engine light is on, we have 148273 miles. I've read all the forums and eliminated any vacuum leaks or cracks in intake or gas in vacuum lines, haven't bothered to get codes checked out yet. I consider myself pretty proficient at auto repair but not not on computer type engines. Any help will be appreciated and I promise to post what fixes it. Please include an idea of where to find the part on the motor. Thanks
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Can you check the fuel pressure throughout the RPM range?

    Are the battery connections good and clean and tight? If the connections are good, and the fuel gauge needle is erratic and bouncing around, that would seem like a possible sender unit going bad. This is found inside the tank, attached to the fuel pump.
  • I held the rpm at 3800 to see if it was just running out of enough fuel pressure and it ran ok, if u rev quickly to 4K it still breaks down at that rpm, do u know where egr valve is and any other thing is that i can take off and clean? Cables are fine, another clue is the wife said her gas mileage went down before the skip, also 1 of the plug wires shorted out to manifold, wife took it to shop and they wanted $ 480 something for a tune-up and mass air flow sensor, i just brought it home and replaced plug wire and it ran fine for 2 weeks, could be a damaged coil, is there a way to ohm it out?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    When you are revving in neutral the limiter cuts in much sooner to protect the motor. Is that what's happening?
  • I haven't really checked to see if it's doing the sputter at 4k in drive but it does sputter at some rpm, in truth the fuel hand has been on the blink for about 6 months and also the oil pressure has read 128psi and i know that ain't right, figured the computer was erratic.
  • you guys were right about sputter at 4k being the limiter, still have rough idle and run though, anyone know where the MAF and EGR are located?
  • The problem turned out to be the spark plug wires, I cleaned the MAF, EGR, and took off the throttle position sensor and there was nothing there to clean, all these things were what Advance Autos code reader called out along with multible mis-fires. Thanks for the help especially the rev- limiter ones.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    Thanks for the reply about what you did find as your problem. Those of us who try to give remote help appreciate the feedback. It's not the first time the rev limiter has fooled someone so I hoped that was what you were noticing; it's cheaper than a real problem!!!

    Spark plug wires seem to be a very common factor in problems on the 3800's. Replacing them with Belden or other OEM quality wires helps. Also replacing the plugs with the AC Delco replacement saves trouble in the end. Occasionally someone has other plugs and switching back fixes the problem. There are some who run NGK plugs who are successful in the Bonneville groups.
  • yunghillyunghill Posts: 3
    i have problems with my rare reatta i know i have a small crack in my exsaust manifold i put some sealer onit but all of a sudden it sounds like a truck and it sutters when i take off and it lose power on incline like the transmission and sparks aint on the same page????i need help please i heard it could be my something moduleor crank censer but i dunno
  • yunghillyunghill Posts: 3
    i have problems with my rare reatta i know i have a small crack in my exsaust manifold i put some sealer onit but all of a sudden it sounds like a truck and it sutters when i take off and it lose power on incline like the transmission and sparks aint on the same page????i need help please i heard it could be my something moduleor crank censer but i dunno
  • patnjoepatnjoe Posts: 4
    I have a 1996 Buick Park Avenue. I need to replace the driver's power window motor. How do I remove the window control switch panel in the driver's armrest without breaking off the black plastic tabs on the ends that secure it in place? Thanks for your help.
    Regards, Joe
  • I have a '97 Buick Park Ave and I need to replace the turn signal switch. I read that you suggested replacing the whole column in a previest post. When you say the "whole column" does that include all of the steering wheel assembly? I'm a DIY'er and want to take the path of least resistance.

    Further, I have not purchased a replacement of any kind, yet. So, I'm looking to do this I hope, without having to buy any specialty tools. If I go with the whole column does the airbag present any special experience/knowledge requirements in order to get the job done?

    I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks, Tom
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    edited June 2010
    I have not replaced or worked on a steering column.

    Does your key have the resistor chip on the throat of the key or is the coding in the plastic part of the key for the 97 Park Avenue?

    If it's the resistor chip in the key throat, then changing the steering column would mean you'd have to bypass the VATS system reading that chip or replace the lock cylinder in the new column with the lock cylinder from the old one so that the resistor chip will work. There are 15 resistances used. It's unlikely the new column would have the same resistance as your old key did,but it's possible.

    The airbag system must be disabled in advance before working anywhere.

    My personal opinion, is I'd take it to a local, but reputable mechanic whom others hve recommended and see how much to replace the turn signal switch.

    If you are a do it yourself, you might want to invest in a factory service manual by Helm. This is NOT a Motors or Helm manual. It is not the DVDs that are mass sold on Ebay.

    Doing a search for service manual 1997 park avenue:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Shop-SERVICE-Manual-Repair- - -SET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad9bd8ef5QQitemZ390200135413QQptZMotorsQ5fManu- - alsQ5fLiterature

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Service-Shop-Manual-Set-_W- - 0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2983388cQQitemZ400128424076QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fL- - iterature

    Item number: 400128424076
    item number: 310177918225

    Above are two links to a real factory service book set and the Ebay item numbers.. Notice it's two volumes. Some are selling one volume at a time. One includes shipping, other doesn't

    If you price the volume at helminc.com, it will probably be $130 plus handling plus shipping.

    Also you can use Alldata at many libraries now on their computers free. You can save copies of the pages to a USB memory stick saving as internet explorer files with all files or you can save individual pictures. You can also print out pages on their printers. Check with your local library and if it's not larger and not affiliated with a neighboring system where you can go use your card to access their online data bases, ask them where the closest system is that has online access you can get to.

    I prefer a hard copy of the book in my hot little hands to lay on the fender or trunk lid while I work. Some people have bought DVDs with info from GM databases on them. I bought one and never could get it to work.

    You can vary the search words on Ebay such as buick instead of Park Avenue and you might hit one that's not in the category I found.
  • 265,000 mile Park Ave outstanding condition (except for the following problem)
    Prior to this, no issues no codes no nothing but a good car.
    -Drove 20 miles, ABS light came on, went out about a minute later.
    -Few minutes later the Volt light came on, went out about a minute later 3-5 miles.
    -A minute later all Dash Lights and Gauges went out.
    -A few minutes later it acted like it was missing or it was sputtering poor acceleration, a minute later that went away and it ran good and able to accelerate good, still no dash lights or gauges.
    -Turned blinker on and all lights and gauges came on.
    -A minute later they went off
    -Blinker thing happened three times.
    -During de-acceleration turned blinker on and the car killed.
    -no crank no lights no nothing.
    -Got it home, put charge on the dead battery and the car started.
    -Changed Alternator.
    -Same thing happened but in 10 miles.
    -Brought to a shop, no code, low battery, load tested battery it's good, charged battery car started, no codes, 13.1 at the battery 12.5 inside the car with all the stuff running.
    -Put another Alternator in, gave 14 at the battery.
    -SAME THING happened this morning,
    I GOT NOTHING no codes my mechanic is working on it and I thought I would do some digging, the only spot he did not check yet is under the back seat, not sure if this is a heat issue or what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    Check connections to that battery. Check grounds at the floor pan under the seat. Make a fresh connection to bare metal. Check connections if the positive lead goes to a fuse/relay box under the hood.

    Time for a new battery in my opinion.

    Does this car have a heavy current using amplifier in it by any chance?
  • Thanks for all your info -- especially the tip about AllData at the library. I'll have to ck that out. I've talk to a few people who have said replacing the turn signal switch is a DIY repair BUT that it can present some challenges like disconnecting and connecting the wire harness plug under the dash at the base of the column. I've looked at the setup under there and it will require some tight finger work.

    I was able to locate a few salvage yards that have a switch that will fit. prices range from $75 and up.

    I think it best I go to the library first before putting $$'s into this project.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,649
    Never underestimate the value of very long nose pliers.

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  • patnjoepatnjoe Posts: 4
    I need to install new front struts in my 95 Park Avenue. I have about 100K miles. I have read the Haynes book and the job does not look that difficult. I am very capable. Info on any tips or land mines would be greatly appreciated. Should I replace the corrugated boots, strut mounting plate / bearing, and donuts while I have everything apart? I plan to keep the car about another 100K miles. Thanks for your help.
    Regards, Joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,649
    Definitely replace the strut mounts.

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  • I have a problem with my cruise control on a 1997 Buick Park Avenue. It only works once in a while only. It sets (very rarely) but if I hit the brake it won't resume. Also once it is set, if I hit the resume control once to bump up my speed my accelerator wants to keep going to the mat. Any ideas out there? Thanks, Mike.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,459
    >Hit the brake and it won't resume.

    That could be the brake switch at the top of the travel of the brake pedal. It pushes the switch in to tell the computer that the brake is not being depressed.

    Try lifting the pedal with your toe to make the connection. Without checking the schematic I believe there used to be a second path from brake disconnect and that was the third brake light in the rear window. Are those bulbs all lighted and working?

    >Hit resume

    That sounds like a problem inside the stalk for the turn signals, wiper, and the cruise controls. The stalk just pulls out or twists and comes out. The wire for it either has a connector at the top or is through the column to the bottom and has a connector. If it disconnects at the bottom pull a string up through the column with the old switch wire and use that to pull the new wire down through.
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